Guerlarose by Guerlain c1930

Guerlarose, launched in 1930 by Jean-Jacques Guerlain, is a name that immediately evokes imagery of beauty, elegance, and heritage. The word "Guerlarose" combines the iconic Guerlain name with "rose," highlighting the central ingredient of the fragrance. Pronounced [gɛr-lə-rose], it seamlessly merges the prestige of the Guerlain family with the timeless allure of the rose. In French, the name carries connotations of both luxury and nature, blending the house's mastery of perfumery with the soft femininity associated with roses.

The imagery and emotions the name conjures are filled with romanticism, timeless beauty, and sophistication. Women of the 1930s, an era of elegance and refinement before the turmoil of World War II, would likely have been drawn to a perfume with such an evocative name. The rose, a flower synonymous with love, femininity, and purity, was a universal symbol of beauty, and a fragrance centered around this iconic bloom would have appealed to women seeking a refined, classic floral scent. The inclusion of "Guerla" in the name also reinforced the perfume's connection to Guerlain’s legacy, signaling quality and an artisanal blend rooted in tradition.

In terms of scent, Guerlarose would be interpreted as a tribute to the rose in all its facets, framed by Guerlain’s signature Guerlinade accord. The Guerlinade—a signature base of tonka bean, vanilla, iris, and other warm, powdery notes—would serve as the foundation, enveloping the radiant, fresh, and voluptuous aspects of the rose in a cocoon of luxurious softness. The result would be a scent that is not just about the rose itself but about the entire experience of elegance that the flower represents when interpreted through the lens of Guerlain’s craftsmanship.

In the 1930s, the world was still experiencing the tail end of the Art Deco era, a period that celebrated opulence, luxury, and a return to classical beauty after the upheavals of the First World War. Guerlarose, as a perfume, would have resonated deeply with women of the time who were drawn to this sense of revival, elegance, and a desire for refinement in their personal style. The perfume would likely have been perceived as sophisticated, with an air of understated luxury—perfect for the socially conscious, fashion-forward women of the period who were navigating both a modern world and a deeply traditional sense of femininity.

Roses have always held a place of honor in perfumery, and by 1930, they were one of the most important and sought-after ingredients. Guerlain, known for its commitment to quality and artistry, would have sourced its roses from the finest regions. At this time, rose cultivation for perfume was particularly concentrated in Grasse, France, which was famous for its rose-centric fields and expertise in creating precious absolutes and essential oils. The Rosa Centifolia, also known as the May Rose, was prized for its intensely rich and honeyed fragrance, making it a likely source for the roses used in Guerlarose.

The importance of roses in perfumery cannot be overstated. Historically, they have symbolized love, beauty, and romance, and their inclusion in fragrances like Guerlarose represents both a nod to tradition and an embodiment of luxurious femininity. By centering the fragrance around the rose, Jean-Jacques Guerlain not only paid homage to one of the most beloved flowers in perfumery but also showcased Guerlain’s ability to elevate a single ingredient to an art form.

Scribner's Magazine, 1930:

"Guerlilas (lilac) and Guerlarose (rose), make most timely gifts. For what more in keeping with the present style than the discreet elegance of perfumes distilled from the flower itself? The purity of the scent remains absolutely unchanged."

 

Fragrance Composition:

What does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women featuring beautiful rose notes over the Guerlinade accord.

• Top notes: rose, lemon, aldehyde, bergamot
• Middle notes: rose, violet, jasmine, heliotrope
• Base notes: almond

Recently, I was able to obtain a sample from my good friend Alexandra Star, who has lots of rare antique Guerlain treasures in her etsy shop, Parfums de Paris. If you are interested in experiencing the well blended, floral sweetness of Guerlain's Guerlarose, stroll on over to her shop and take a look around.  

Scent Profile:

As I take the first breath of Guerlarose, the delicate aroma of rose immediately blossoms on my skin. This rose is soft yet confident, with a dew-kissed freshness that envelops me. It feels as though I’m wandering through a garden at dawn, with the subtle sweetness of petals unfurling in the early light. Intertwined with the rose is the zesty brightness of lemon and bergamot. 

The lemon is vibrant and tart, cutting through the floral notes with a crisp, almost effervescent clarity. Bergamot adds an elegant, slightly bitter citrusy edge, grounding the burst of lemon with a more refined character. This interplay of citrus and florals is elevated by aldehydes, which give a clean, sparkling lift to the opening, like the cool air of a spring morning.

As the fragrance begins to settle, the heart notes reveal a lush bouquet of florals. The rose deepens, becoming richer and more voluptuous, now mingling with the powdery, sweet violet. The violet adds a gentle, slightly candied softness, creating an airy quality that complements the richness of the rose. 

Jasmine, ever-so-delicate, introduces a hint of creamy, sensual white floral that adds a layer of complexity to the bouquet. It feels like an elegant dance between the two, with heliotrope softly humming in the background. Heliotrope, with its powdery, almond-like sweetness, introduces a subtle warmth, as if the flowers are kissed by the late afternoon sun, bringing a comforting, slightly vanilla nuance to the heart of the scent.

As the perfume lingers on the skin, the base notes begin to unfurl their warmth. The Guerlinade accord, a signature of Guerlain fragrances, emerges softly, led by the delicate creaminess of almond. The almond is subtly sweet, adding a velvety smoothness to the dry-down, making the fragrance feel like silk against the skin. It carries a faint warmth that merges with the lingering traces of heliotrope, creating a soft, enveloping aura. Together, these elements form a harmonious base that is warm, comforting, and timeless.

Guerlarose is a symphony of rich, beautiful florals with the timeless elegance of roses at its heart, balanced by the fresh citrus of the top notes and the soft warmth of almond and heliotrope at the base. The scent is both fresh and deeply nostalgic, capturing the essence of femininity and grace.

Bottles:

Presented in four different size ‘Guerlilas’ bottles as well as the quadrilobe flacon.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Guerlarose, a sophisticated floral fragrance launched by Guerlain in 1930, holds a special place in the history of perfumery. Despite its enduring appeal, the perfume was eventually discontinued, with the exact date remaining unknown. However, records show that Guerlarose was still being sold in the 1940s, a testament to its popularity during a time when the world was experiencing significant upheaval due to World War II.

The 1940s were a tumultuous period, marked by uncertainty and the hardships of wartime. Despite this, perfumes like Guerlarose offered women a sense of elegance, beauty, and escape from the difficulties of daily life. A floral fragrance such as Guerlarose, with its lush rose heart and delicate powdery nuances, would have provided a sense of timeless femininity and grace, a reminder of luxury and refinement in a world that was often stark and challenging.

The fact that Guerlarose continued to be available during this era suggests that its delicate balance of rose, violet, and jasmine, along with the warm, comforting base notes of almond and the signature Guerlinade accord, resonated deeply with women of the time. The perfume may have evoked memories of a more peaceful past or offered a glimpse of hope for the future, wrapped in the beauty of its floral composition.

Though discontinued, Guerlarose remains an emblem of Guerlain's dedication to creating fragrances that capture not only the essence of flowers but also the emotional landscapes of the women who wear them. The disappearance of the fragrance from Guerlain’s catalog reflects the evolution of trends and tastes in perfumery, yet its presence during the 1940s speaks to the timelessness of a beautifully crafted floral fragrance.