Kadine by Guerlain c1911

Kadine by Guerlain, launched in 1911 and created by Jacques Guerlain, is steeped in an air of mystery and opulence, reflective of the perfume's inspiration. The name "Kadine" is derived from the Ottoman Empire, where a "Kadine" (pronounced kah-deen) referred to a woman elevated from the harem to the status of a wife or "favorite" of the Sultan. The word carries a regal and sensuous connotation, evoking images of beauty, power, and intimate connection with the Sultan’s world. 

When Jacques Guerlain visited the Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, he was captivated by the portrait of a Kadine—a woman of exceptional beauty, known not only for her appearance but also for her heightened olfactory senses. This combination of allure and extraordinary perception inspired him to create a perfume in homage to her, capturing the essence of this legendary woman.

The word "Kadine" instantly brings to mind images of exotic palaces filled with lush gardens, luxurious fabrics, and the secret, intimate world of the Sultan's court. The name is imbued with an aura of intrigue, elegance, and sensuality, suggesting a scent that is as mysterious and multi-faceted as the woman it honors. In scent, "Kadine" would evoke the richness of an oriental palace—a blend of warmth, powdery softness, and the aromatic florals that surrounded the Kadines in their secluded gardens. It’s a perfume that speaks of luxury, exclusivity, and a hidden world, inviting the wearer into an intoxicating realm of history and desire.

Classified as a powdery aromatic floral fragrance, Kadine was known for its prominence of iris, a key note derived from orris roots. This powdery, earthy floral note, paired with other aromatic florals, would have been an elegant and sophisticated choice for women in the early 20th century. At that time, powdery fragrances were closely associated with feminine refinement, grace, and beauty, and the inclusion of iris in a perfume like Kadine would have spoken to a woman's desire to exude an air of delicacy and allure. Women of the period, emerging from the constraints of the Victorian era, were beginning to embrace a more liberated sense of style and expression. A perfume like Kadine, with its exotic name and rich, evocative scent, would have resonated deeply with women who were drawn to the idea of exoticism, mystery, and luxury.

The year 1911, when Kadine was launched, was an era of transition in Europe. The Belle Époque was coming to a close, a period marked by grand cultural and artistic achievements. There was a growing fascination with the Orient, as Western Europe looked toward the East for artistic, architectural, and cultural inspiration. This was the time of Art Nouveau, and its sinuous, nature-inspired lines found parallels in the world of perfumery, where exotic florals and rare ingredients were increasingly popular. Women of this time, often affluent and well-traveled, would have been drawn to a fragrance like Kadine not only for its olfactory richness but also for its symbolic connection to an imagined world of Oriental luxury and romance.

The iris note in Kadine, with its earthy, powdery, and slightly woody scent, would have been especially significant in this period, as it was a common component in high-end perfumes, providing a sense of warmth and elegance. It was both timeless and exotic, lending itself perfectly to the kind of narrative Jacques Guerlain wanted to evoke. The story of the Kadine, a woman of power and grace, would have provided a seductive backdrop for the wearer, allowing her to embody the same qualities that the perfume was meant to represent: sensuality, beauty, and sophistication.

Guerlain’s Kadine reflected the spirit of its time—a fragrance that embodied the allure of distant lands and the rich cultural interplay between East and West. The choice of name, notes, and inspiration tells the story of a woman who, like the perfume itself, was a combination of elegance, power, and mystique.

A 1914 edition of Pearson's Magazine has this to say about the creation of Kadine.

"Perfumes were a hobby with her. From her gardens, she distilled what Gabriel Guerlain says no Paris perfumer is able to buy unadulterated - the true concentrated essence of Bulgarian roses. Parma violets, the invention of her family, yielded her almost their exact fragrance. Above all, she loved the iris, the flag or fleur de luce of the old French Kings. Orris powder from the root is known to all; but no perfumer had succeeded in producing what the delicate fancy of Marie Louise hit on - a concentrated liquid iris that was not insipid, a central iris decorated with fugitive half-tones and a tantalizing suspicion of orange for dissonance. Gabriel Guerlain, that grand old artiste whom she called her friend, made it up for her under the name "Kadine", which is Turkish or Bulgarian for "queen" and "woman"; and such it was finally destined to become a precious modern scent. And a glory of the rue de la Paix. Who, today, paying $5 for seven grammes of it, will dream of what it typified in the reveries of the blonde daughter of the Bourbon-Parmas - the destiny of her beloved Ferdinand: the ancient fleur de lis, royal emblem of their common ancestry, adorned with the haunting half tones of every modern devotion to the people!"

This passage is a bit dense, but I can help break it down and clarify its meaning:

The woman (possibly Marie Louise, a member of the Bourbon-Parma family) was passionate about perfumes, and creating them was one of her interests. From her personal garden, she made her own perfumes by distilling ingredients, something that even Gabriel Guerlain (a famous perfumer) claimed no perfumer in Paris could obtain in a pure, unadulterated form. Specifically, she was able to distill the genuine, concentrated essence of Bulgarian roses, a highly prized and rare ingredient in perfumery.  Her family had a special connection to Parma violets, a flower whose scent was difficult to capture exactly, but she was able to produce a fragrance that closely resembled it. Her favorite flower was the iris, also known as the "fleur de luce," a symbol associated with the French monarchy.  

Orris root powder, derived from the iris plant, was well-known in perfumery, but no perfumer had been able to create what Marie Louise envisioned. She wanted a concentrated iris fragrance that wasn't bland, one that was rich and multi-faceted, with subtle undertones and a hint of orange for contrast, adding complexity. Gabriel Guerlain, a renowned perfumer and her friend, created this fragrance for her, and they named it "Kadine."  The name "Kadine" is said to mean "queen" or "woman" in Turkish or Bulgarian. 

The perfume became a cherished, modern fragrance and was celebrated on Rue de la Paix, a famous street in Paris known for luxury. People today, paying $5 for a small amount of this perfume, have no idea of the deeper meaning it held for Marie Louise, the blonde daughter of the Bourbon-Parma family.  The perfume symbolized something personal to Marie Louise, specifically the destiny of her beloved Ferdinand, tied to the royal fleur-de-lis symbol, which connected their shared ancestry. It also represented a mix of tradition and modern devotion to the people. 

In summary, this passage discusses Marie Louise's passion for creating perfumes, specifically her unique vision for an iris fragrance. Gabriel Guerlain helped her bring this vision to life with the creation of "Kadine," a scent that carried deep personal and symbolic meaning for her.

Fragrance Composition:

What does it smell like? It is classified as a powdery aromatic floral fragrance for women. It was heavy on the iris note, obtained by orris roots.

• Top notes: anise, bergamot, Parma violet, aromatic notes, orange
• Heart notes: iris, jasmine, Bulgarian rose, carnation, leather, orris, violet leaf
• Base notes: musk, almond, vanilla

Evening Star, 1913:

"Kadine is an iris, but so fragrant and lasting, so arranged and dressed up, that it seems a queen of odors."

Scent Profile:

As I experience Kadine, the first impression immediately draws me into a nostalgic world. A breath of fresh anise gently wafts through the air, offering a slightly sweet, spicy warmth that dances on the edge of herbal bitterness. Its crisp licorice-like scent contrasts beautifully with the bright, zesty sharpness of bergamot, which adds a citrusy sparkle, tingling the senses with its lively, effervescent charm. 

Soon, the delicate powdery whispers of Parma violet emerge, filling the air with its sweet, floral softness, reminiscent of sun-dappled gardens in spring. Alongside it, subtle aromatic notes—perhaps herbs from a far-off land—add a sense of mystery, while a hint of orange rounds out the top notes with its juicy, radiant energy.

As the fragrance settles, the heart reveals the true soul of Kadine. The rich, velvety texture of iris, drawn from the earthy, root-like orris, immediately takes center stage. Its powdery, slightly woody aroma feels both regal and grounding, enveloping me in a soft, elegant embrace. 

The silky-sweet jasmine unfurls next, with its lush, exotic allure, adding a sensual depth that mingles with the equally opulent Bulgarian rose. The rose's deep, intoxicating sweetness feels both familiar and timeless, as if it has bloomed for centuries in a faraway royal garden. The carnation brings a touch of spiciness, subtly peppery, balancing the delicate florals with an edge of heat. 

There's a hint of leather, soft yet unmistakably animalic, which deepens the fragrance, adding a refined, tactile texture to the floral bouquet. This leathery note contrasts the cool, powdery iris, creating an intriguing duality. As the violet returns, this time as violet leaf, its fresh, green facet emerges, adding a crisp, slightly metallic note that punctuates the composition.

In the dry down, Kadine reveals its most intimate layers. The comforting warmth of musk lingers on the skin like a soft caress, giving the perfume a delicate, animalic sensuality that feels both clean and seductive. The almond note adds a creamy, nutty sweetness, slightly bitter, which harmonizes beautifully with the rich, comforting scent of vanilla. 

The vanilla is not overly sweet but rather velvety and smooth, offering a luxurious warmth that mingles with the powdery orris from the heart notes. Together, these base notes create an inviting, softly powdery trail that lingers long after the initial floral rush has faded.

Each ingredient in Kadine speaks of sophistication and elegance, from the bright and crisp top notes to the powdery floral heart, to the warm, soft base. It is a fragrance that captures both the softness of feminine beauty and the complexity of strength and mystery, like the woman for whom it was created.

Bottles:

Kadine was launched in the four-sided bottle ( Flacon Carre) which was a standard at the time in 1911. Also presented in the flacon de Guerre (wartime flacon) and in  a 1/2 litre ‘Quadrilobe’ bottle in a black wooden box made by Cristalleries de Baccarat. Can also be found in the 'Petit Beurre", (Butter Pat) flacon from 1926-1939, the Amphore flacon (parfum), and the Goutte flacon (eau de toilette) starting in 1923.

Photo by ellenaa

Photo from the vintage perfume vault

Photo from duftreise

Photo from delcampe

photo from delcampe

photo from happy-penza.ru

Fate of the Fragrance:

Kadine by Guerlain was discontinued at an unknown date, but it was still being sold in 1941, continuing its legacy through the early 20th century. During this period, the world was marked by dramatic social and political changes, and perfumes like Kadine provided a sense of luxury and escapism, offering women a way to express elegance and individuality amidst the uncertainties of the time.

The continuation of Kadine through 1941 suggests its popularity and relevance even decades after its initial launch in 1911. It likely resonated with women who were drawn to its rich, powdery floral composition, which embodied both the exotic allure of the Ottoman inspiration and the timeless sophistication Guerlain was known for. As the world moved through the challenges of World War II, Kadine would have served as a reminder of refinement and beauty—its intricate blend of iris, rose, violet, and musk creating an aura of opulence and femininity, even in the face of turmoil.

By 1941, the scent was more than just a fragrance; it had become a symbol of tradition and prestige, capturing the essence of Guerlain's commitment to creating perfumes that stood the test of time. Though it was eventually discontinued, Kadine remains a significant part of Guerlain's storied history, a reflection of Jacques Guerlain’s artistry and his ability to blend cultural inspiration with olfactory beauty.

2005 Reformulation & Reissue:

In 2005, Kadine was given new life through a re-orchestration of the original formula by Jean-Paul Guerlain. This re-launch reintroduced the historic fragrance to a modern audience while staying true to its origins. The composition was reimagined with modern ingredients and techniques, yet it retained the essence that had made it a beloved scent. The new version of Kadine was packaged in an updated design, reflecting both the heritage of the fragrance and its fresh revival. Released as a limited edition, it captured the hearts of collectors and long-time fans of Guerlain alike, drawing attention to the lasting allure of Kadine.

2021 Reformulation & Reissue:

In 2021, Thierry Wasser took on the delicate task of reformulating Kadine, blending its historic roots with a modern interpretation. The updated version retained the fragrance's essential elegance, while introducing a refined and contemporary twist. The top notes of the 2021 reformulation are bergamot and green notes, which immediately greet the senses with a burst of freshness. The bergamot lends its bright, citrusy sparkle, cutting through the lush verdancy of the green notes. This opening evokes the crispness of early morning air, alive with the promise of something rich and floral beneath.

As the scent evolves, the heart reveals a classic floral bouquet featuring iris, jasmine, and rose. The iris, central to Kadine’s original formula, maintains its prominence, bringing a powdery sophistication and smooth texture. It intertwines with the soft, sensual jasmine, adding a sweet floral depth, while the rose contributes its timeless beauty, grounding the fragrance in a rich, romantic tradition. This floral core evokes the essence of femininity and luxury, with each flower harmonizing to create a sense of elegance and grace.

In the base, vanilla and leather create a striking contrast, bringing warmth and richness to the fragrance’s dry-down. The creamy sweetness of vanilla is balanced by the subtle ruggedness of leather, adding depth and a touch of sensuality. This combination imparts a luxurious softness to the scent, reminiscent of fine, supple fabrics or worn leather gloves, hinting at a hidden strength beneath the floral delicacy. Together, the vanilla and leather create an unforgettable finish, lingering on the skin with an intoxicating blend of comfort and allure.

Thierry Wasser’s reformulation of Kadine in 2021 successfully bridges the gap between past and present, honoring the heritage of the fragrance while infusing it with a fresh and modern sophistication. This reimagining of Kadine not only preserves the essence of the original scent but also makes it relevant for contemporary fragrance enthusiasts, ensuring that the legacy of this classic Guerlain perfume continues to endure.

As a result, in 2021, Kadine once again graced the perfume world with another limited edition relaunch, this time even more exclusive. Only 935 pieces were made available worldwide, making it a highly coveted collector's item. Each bottle retailed for 690 Euros, a testament to its luxury and the craftsmanship involved in its creation. The 2021 edition paid homage to Kadine’s illustrious past while appealing to contemporary tastes. By maintaining the signature powdery floral composition, heavy on the exquisite note of iris obtained from orris roots, the fragrance retained its connection to its origins in 1911 while evolving for a new generation of fragrance lovers.

This re-release not only brought the beauty of Kadine back into the spotlight but also reaffirmed Guerlain’s dedication to preserving its legacy fragrances, making them accessible to a select few. The exclusivity and craftsmanship behind the 2021 version made it a true luxury item, symbolizing the continuity of Guerlain's influence on perfumery throughout history.