Moskovskaia Slava by Guerlain c1883

Moskovskaia Slava by Guerlain, launched in 1883, was created as a tribute to the Russian nobility, specifically in honor of Alexander III, who had recently ascended to the Russian throne. The name "Moskovskaia Slava" translates to "Glory of Moscow," a title that immediately evokes grand imagery of Russia’s imperial splendor, its rich cultural history, and the power and majesty of its royal court. Choosing such a name reflects Guerlain’s admiration for Russia’s strong influence on Europe during this period, both politically and artistically, as well as the allure of its aristocracy. The title encapsulates the grandeur of Moscow, with its majestic architecture, Orthodox cathedrals, and the opulent lifestyle of its nobility.

The phrase "Moskovskaia Slava" would have conjured feelings of pride, luxury, and power. For those familiar with Moscow, it would evoke images of the Kremlin’s golden domes glistening in the sunlight, the imposing presence of Red Square, and the elegance of Russian high society. It represents both a geographic and cultural celebration of the beauty and prestige associated with Moscow, and by extension, the Russian Empire itself. Men and women of the time, particularly in France and Europe, would have viewed this fragrance as a symbol of sophistication and aristocratic allure. The name suggests a strong connection to Russian history, regal ceremony, and a certain exoticism that European perfume houses were eager to capture.

Scent-wise, the name "Moskovskaia Slava" would suggest a fragrance rich in depth, warmth, and opulence. One might imagine the scent evoking the cold Russian winters, contrasted by the warmth of luxurious interiors. Notes of spices, rich woods like sandalwood and cedar, and musky elements could represent the grandeur and strength of the Russian empire, while florals such as jasmine and rose may reflect the delicate beauty of Russian nobility and their deep appreciation for fine fragrances.

Launched in 1883, this perfume was introduced during a time of great change in Russia. Alexander III’s reign was marked by conservative policies and a focus on maintaining the autocratic rule. For Europe, Russia was a land of mystery and grandeur, and this was reflected in perfumery as well. Perfumers in the late 19th century often created fragrances inspired by the exotic East, and Russia, with its fusion of European and Eastern influences, was a particularly appealing muse. Guerlain’s Moskovskaia Slava would have stood out as a fragrance that not only aligned with the trend of creating perfumes with foreign allure but also capitalized on Russia’s deep ties to luxury, art, and aristocracy.

In this context, Moskovskaia Slava was likely perceived as both a tribute to Russian grandeur and a symbol of prestige. The perfume, much like the name, would have conveyed a sense of wealth, power, and imperial majesty that resonated with those who wanted to indulge in the opulence of the Russian aristocracy. For men and women of the time, wearing Moskovskaia Slava would have been a way to connect with the romanticized vision of Russian nobility and the splendor of its empire, providing them with a sensory escape into the world of courtly luxury and grandeur.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? The fragrance is most likely a woody fougere fragrance for men.

• Top notes: green leafy notes, bergamot, galbanum
• Middle notes: fir, fern, lavender, geranium, pine, juniper
• Base notes: birch tar, Russian leather, oakmoss, sandalwood, cedar, Tibetan musk, ambergris, castoreum, vetiver, labdanum, styrax

Moskovskaia Slava was most likely a woody fougère fragrance crafted specifically for men, and its creation was based on the preferences of the Russian Grand Duke. Fougère fragrances, known for their green, herbaceous notes layered with woods, spices, and musks, were fitting choices for aristocratic men of the 19th century. The modulation of Moskovskaia Slava was designed to exude the essence of fragrant forests, rich woodsy undertones, and a sense of regal strength. In this sense, the fragrance would evoke imagery of the vast Russian wilderness, thick with towering pines and cedars, imbued with the freshness of crisp, forest air.

The woody fougère classification aligns with the ideals of masculinity during this time—strong, grounded, and connected to nature. For the Russian Grand Duke, a fragrance that exudes this richness would serve as a reflection of both his refined tastes and the rugged splendor of the Russian landscape. Notes of moss, cedarwood, and perhaps pine or fir would likely form the base of this scent, complemented by the softer, green elements of lavender, ferns, and perhaps oakmoss. Together, these components create a scent that evokes both freshness and depth, symbolizing both the outdoors and the grand palatial interiors where Russian nobility resided.

The fragrance’s modulation would also have captured the rich, enveloping warmth of Russian winters, where aromatic woods are burned for warmth, filling the air with a luxurious, earthy scent. The inclusion of musky and animalic notes would further enhance the perfume’s richness, adding a sensual, regal touch befitting the Grand Duke. As it lingers on the skin, Moskovskaia Slava would have evoked visions of fur-lined cloaks, grand hunting lodges, and the smell of freshly cut wood, while simultaneously echoing the power and elegance of Russia's imperial court.

For the men of the time, wearing Moskovskaia Slava would have been a symbol of strength and prestige, a way to connect to the noble, untamed spirit of Russia’s expansive forests and its royal heritage. It was not just a fragrance but an olfactory representation of status—refined yet rugged, sophisticated yet deeply rooted in the natural world. The woody fougère composition would have made it distinct, particularly in its ability to merge nature with luxury, satisfying the Russian Grand Duke's requirement for a scent that was both elegant and evocative of the majestic forests of his homeland.

Scent Profile:

As I begin to explore Moskovskaia Slava, the first impression is an invigorating rush of green leafy notes that instantly evoke the freshness of a forest at dawn. There’s a subtle sharpness from the bergamot, bright and citrusy, cutting through the greenery, adding a light, zesty sparkle to the opening. Yet, it’s balanced by the earthy richness of galbanum, resinous and slightly bitter, giving depth to the otherwise airy introduction. This trio of top notes creates a sensation of walking through a dense, dewy forest, the cool, crisp air filling your lungs, with the scent of leaves and fresh-cut greenery lingering.

As the scent evolves, the heart reveals a more complex, grounding presence. The fir and pine immediately conjure visions of towering trees, their resinous sap and needles mingling in the air, blending the smell of the forest floor with the aromatic breeze. There’s a natural sharpness to the fir, but it’s softened by the familiar, herbaceous warmth of lavender and the bright, slightly metallic floral notes of geranium. These florals don’t overpower the woody atmosphere; rather, they add a calming freshness that plays well with the dominant green, forest-like notes. The subtle sweetness of juniper lingers in the background, hinting at the faint spice of its berries and bringing a cool, slightly peppery edge that enhances the fragrance’s natural, outdoorsy feel.

As the dry down begins, the fragrance takes on a rich, leathery warmth. Birch tar adds a smoky, almost rugged quality, reminiscent of the smell of smoldering wood after a fire, while the Russian leather note envelops the composition with a soft, worn suede-like feel, evoking the idea of luxurious leather gloves or boots well-worn by the nobility. Oakmoss lends a grounding earthiness, its damp, mossy texture blending beautifully with the dry, slightly spicy woodiness of sandalwood and cedar. These base notes together create a deep, textured forest floor, layered with wood, earth, and smoke.

Finally, the animalic richness of Tibetan musk, ambergris, and castoreum emerges. The musk is dark, sensual, and primal, giving the scent a sense of raw power, while the salty, marine nuance of ambergris adds a subtle sweetness and depth. Castoreum, with its leathery and slightly smoky character, reinforces the wild, untamed nature of the fragrance, adding an authentic animalic warmth. The sweetness of labdanum and the soft, slightly spicy resin of styrax round out the base, giving the fragrance a smooth, balsamic finish that lingers like the comforting warmth of a hearth after a cold walk in the woods.

The scent of Moskovskaia Slava is a journey through nature, from the freshness of green forests to the rich warmth of leather and wood, capturing the majestic essence of the Russian landscape and its noble heritage.

Bottles:

Presented in the Carre flacon.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Moskovskaia Slava, launched in 1883, was an opulent and evocative fragrance by Guerlain, created to honor the Russian nobility, particularly Tsar Alexander III. The name translates to "Glory of Moscow," and it conjured visions of imperial grandeur, luxury, and the rich heritage of Russia. This fragrance, like many of Guerlain's creations, captured a specific cultural moment and atmosphere, blending the essence of Russian elegance with the house’s signature sophistication.

Although its discontinuation date remains unknown, it is known that Moskovskaia Slava was still available in 1889, as evidenced by its trademark registration during that year. Guerlain’s decision to trademark the fragrance highlights its continued significance and popularity at that time, suggesting that it held a place of importance within their collection for at least several years after its launch.

By the late 19th century, Russia's cultural influence was at its height in Europe, and the perfumery world was keen to tap into the allure of Russian aristocracy and grandeur. Moskovskaia Slava may have been discontinued sometime after the turn of the century, as tastes evolved and the fragrance landscape shifted toward modernity. Nevertheless, it remains a part of Guerlain’s storied past, a tribute to the opulence of imperial Russia and the lasting power of its fragrance creations.