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Wednesday, January 30, 2013

Rue de la Paix by Guerlain c1908

The name "Rue de la Paix" carries a deeply evocative significance for both Guerlain and its clientele. Translated from French, "Rue de la Paix" means "Street of Peace," pronounced "RUE-DUH-LAH-PAY." This iconic Parisian address, which housed the Guerlain boutique from 1840 to 1913, symbolizes a blend of elegance and tranquility. In choosing this name for his 1908 fragrance, Pierre Guerlain not only paid homage to the prestigious location but also infused the perfume with the essence of sophistication and serenity associated with the street.

The name "Rue de la Paix" conjures images of a refined and serene Parisian boulevard, evoking a sense of timeless beauty and graceful luxury. The street itself, situated in the heart of Paris, was renowned for its high-end boutiques and its role as a symbol of Parisian elegance and social status. This historical context suggests that the fragrance aimed to capture the allure and tranquility of this prestigious location.

Classified as a softly sweet floral amber fragrance for women, Rue de la Paix mirrors the opulence and refinement of its namesake. The perfume embodies a delicate balance of floral notes with a warm, amber undertone, designed to evoke a sense of peaceful luxury. For women of the early 20th century, this scent would have been more than just a fragrance; it represented an olfactory connection to one of Paris's most celebrated and historic streets. As such, Rue de la Paix would have been perceived as an embodiment of both personal elegance and the broader cultural prestige associated with the Guerlain name and its storied location.

Fragrance Composition:



What does it smell like? It is classified as a softly sweet floral amber fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: honey, lavender, verbena and bergamot
  • Middle notes: jasmine, violet, rose, ylang ylang, leather, woody notes, ambrette and spices
  • Base notes: musk, violet leaves and orris

I received a generous sample of this vintage parfum from a sealed bottle. This smells like springtime! The pungent bergamot and zesty verbena are the first notes that I detect. Next the herbaceous lavender and rosemary burst forth through the citrus notes. Followed by a light floral heart of sweet jasmine and ylang ylang. Though noted in the fragrance pyramid, I do not get any rose. As the perfume dries down, the familiar Guerlain musk is revealed in a gauzy veil of powdery orris root. The perfume is very fleeting and dissipates quickly (within 10 minutes) leaving a subtle trace of the delicate floral notes on my skin.


Recently, I was able to obtain another sample from my good friend Alexandra Star, who has lots of rare antique Guerlain treasures in her etsy shop, Parfums de Paris. If you are interested in experiencing the spicy herbs and florals of Guerlain's Rue de la Paix, stroll on over to her shop and take a look around. My first impression is the perfume is very sweet, which I love, plus a playdoh note from piperonal, a synthetic heliotrope note, layered with roses, bubblegum notes from jasmin sambac, dusty orris and softened florals with a cozy musk base. It reminds me of an antique sachet full of powdered orris root and dried rose petals. Scroll down to read my review in the Scent Profile.

Scent Profile:


As I inhale the top notes of Rue de la Paix, the initial wave of scent is both alluring and comforting. Honey greets me with its rich, golden sweetness, evoking the warm, sunlit embrace of a summer afternoon. It’s followed by the soothing aroma of lavender, which unfurls like a calming breeze from a blossoming field, its herbal freshness mingling effortlessly with the sweet honey. 

Verbena adds a vibrant, citrusy sparkle, like the zest of a lemon kissed by the sun, and bergamot lends its distinctive, bright, and slightly bitter edge, reminiscent of a morning stroll through a lush garden.

Moving into the heart of the fragrance, I am enveloped by a lush floral bouquet. Jasmine sambac reveals its opulent, intoxicating essence, a velvety floral note that feels both exotic and familiar, reminiscent of a moonlit night in a blooming garden. Violet emerges next, adding a delicate, powdery sweetness, like the soft touch of petals brushed against the skin. 

Rose interlaces with jasmine and violet, its classic and elegant aroma adding depth and romance. Ylang ylang infuses a tropical richness, its heady, sweet floral notes creating a luxurious, almost sensual ambiance. Leather introduces a subtle, sophisticated undertone, conjuring the image of finely crafted accessories, while woody notes ground the fragrance with an earthy richness, evoking the tranquility of a sun-dappled forest. Ambrette brings a musky, slightly fruity nuance, blending seamlessly with the spices that add a hint of exotic intrigue.

As the fragrance settles into its base notes, the scent transforms into a warm, enveloping embrace. Musk provides a deep, sensual warmth, evoking a sense of intimacy and allure. Violet leaves add a green, leafy freshness, grounding the fragrance with a natural, calming touch. 

Orris, with its refined, powdery elegance, rounds out the composition with a soft, creamy texture that lingers delicately on the skin. The overall effect is a beautifully balanced perfume that radiates a quietly sophisticated charm, embodying the serene elegance of its Parisian namesake.

American Hebrew and Jewish Tribune - Volume 116, Issue 22, 1925:
"Guerlain — Parfum Rue de la Paix. Perfume will have a new and exquisite meaning when you use this Parfum Rue de la Paix. Mayhap it will translate fatigue into exhilaration; or a grey day into a gay one. At all events, it will put a bloom in your cheeks."

 


Bottles:

Presented in a 3oz Quadrilobe bottle (parfum) by Cristalleries de Baccarat. Also available in the Goutte flacon (eau de toilette), Amphore flacon (parfum), Flacon Borne (parfum), the Empire flacon (parfum) and the Petite Beurre flacon (parfum).






















Fate of the Fragrance:


Rue de la Paix, the elegant fragrance by Guerlain, experienced a notable journey before its eventual discontinuation. Launched in 1908 and celebrated for its softly sweet floral amber composition, this perfume was a testament to Guerlain’s commitment to crafting timeless, sophisticated scents. The name, derived from the Parisian street where the Guerlain boutique was located from 1840 to 1913, evokes a sense of historic charm and luxury. The rue de la Paix, known for its prestigious residences and high-end boutiques, was synonymous with opulence and elegance, mirroring the refined character of the fragrance.

Despite its initial success and the prestige associated with its name, Rue de la Paix began to fade from the market over time. The perfume was discontinued at an unknown date, a reflection of the evolving tastes and trends within the fragrance industry. However, its legacy endured longer than many of its contemporaries. By 1955, Rue de la Paix was still available for sale, a testament to its enduring appeal and the lasting impression it made on those who cherished its unique blend of honey, lavender, bergamot, and a richly layered heart and base. Its continued presence in the mid-20th century underscores the fragrance’s role in the history of Guerlain and its impact on the world of perfumery.

1 comment:

  1. Hello and thank you for your work! I'm desperately trying to find a flacon from the 1920's of Rue de la Paix for a museum. Would you know the timeline of your different photos of these beautiful pieces of glass art? Kind regards, Christina

    ReplyDelete

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