Tsao-Ko by Guerlain c1879

Tsao-Ko by Guerlain, launched in 1879 and created by Jacques Guerlain, carries a name imbued with both exoticism and historical intrigue. The name "Tsao-Ko" is derived from the Chinese term for black cardamom, a spice known for its distinctive, aromatic qualities. The term evokes an image of far-off lands and ancient trade routes, suggesting a perfume that bridges cultures and offers an olfactory journey into the heart of the East.

In the scent world, "Tsao-Ko" would be interpreted as a fragrance that embodies the rich, spicy character of black cardamom. This spice is known for its bold, smoky aroma, with notes of earthiness and subtle sweetness. The choice of such a name likely reflects Jacques Guerlain's intention to capture the exotic allure and complex depth of this ingredient, translating its aromatic profile into a sophisticated, multi-layered perfume.

For women of the late 19th century, a perfume named "Tsao-Ko" would have represented an adventurous and cosmopolitan spirit. The period was marked by a fascination with the Orient, spurred by increased global trade and colonial expansions. Exotic spices and fragrances were seen as luxurious and rare, offering a touch of the unfamiliar to the everyday. "Tsao-Ko" would thus have appealed to those seeking to distinguish themselves with a scent that spoke of travel, elegance, and an appreciation for the world's diverse sensory experiences.

The late 19th century was a time of rich exploration and cultural exchange. Perfumes like "Tsao-Ko" were not merely about personal fragrance but were part of a broader trend where consumers delighted in the luxury of rare and unique ingredients from distant lands. In this context, "Tsao-Ko" would have been perceived as an olfactory embodiment of the period's fascination with the exotic and the opulent.

Fragrance Composition:

What does it smell like? It is classified as a powdery oriental fougere fragrance.

• Top notes: rice powder, jasmine, aromatic notes, balsamic notes
• Middle notes: jasmine, rose, cassie, ylang ylang, cardamom, spices, Tonkin musk, leather, sandalwood, civet
• Base notes: iris, ambrette, oakmoss

Scent Profile:

In Tsao-Ko, a fragrance classified as a powdery oriental fougère, each note unfolds a rich tapestry of sensory experiences, meticulously blended to create a unique and evocative olfactory journey.

The top notes of Tsao-Ko greet you with the soft, comforting essence of rice powder, its delicate, powdery quality reminiscent of freshly milled grains, creating a subtle yet intriguing introduction. This is intertwined with the lush, opulent scent of jasmine, which blossoms with a heady, sweet fragrance that is both exotic and inviting. The aromatic notes add a refreshing clarity, while the balsamic notes offer a warm, resinous undertone that hints at deeper complexities to come.

As you delve into the heart of the fragrance, the middle notes reveal a bouquet of richly layered aromas. The jasmine, already present, now mingles with the velvety softness of rose, creating a harmonious blend that is both romantic and sophisticated. Cassie, with its sweet, slightly green and powdery scent, and ylang ylang, known for its rich, floral, and somewhat fruity aroma, enhance the depth of the floral accord. 

Cardamom introduces a spicy, aromatic edge, evoking the warmth of distant markets, while a complex mix of spices adds a hint of intrigue. The inclusion of Tonkin musk imparts a sensual, animalic richness, seamlessly blended with the luxurious, buttery nuances of leather. Sandalwood provides a creamy, woody base that complements the other elements, while civet adds an earthy, musky depth that grounds the fragrance in its oriental roots.

In the base notes, the fragrance settles into a refined and enduring composition. The powdery, elegant scent of iris offers a sophisticated finish, its soft, floral aroma underscoring the fragrance's delicate nature. Ambrette contributes a subtle, musky sweetness that enhances the overall richness. Oakmoss provides a lush, forest-like quality, its earthy, green notes adding a grounding effect that balances the more opulent aspects of the scent.

Overall, Tsao-Ko presents a masterful blend of powdery and oriental elements, each ingredient contributing to a complex, layered fragrance that evolves gracefully over time, evoking a sense of timeless elegance and exotic allure.

Country Life, 1902:

"M. Guerlain who is an authority on all matters relating the uses and abuses of scents says that it is the greatest to imagine that sachet powder perfumes. According to him, the only pleasant way of perfuming "laces, linen and ladies" is with an extract and a vaporiser; nothing else is of any real use. It is also a mistake to adopt one perfume alone, for it is essential not only to vary one's perfume with the seasons, but for every occasion. 

We do not wear the same dress in the evening as in the morning, in a motor-car, or in the saddle, and a moment's reflection will show that the scent that is agreeable in the open air can be offensive at a dinner-table. If we once study this question, as it should be studied by all women of refined taste, we shall find that we cannot do better than follow the Parisienne, who never favours what are called extracts of flowers - carnation, lilac, mignonette, etc. She has learnt that the majority of these scents are made from petroleum or terpinol, and have nothing in common with the names they bear. 

Let us follow her in her selection for spring. She chooses "Tsao Ko" or "Jicky" for her perfume for her morning ride in the Bois; "Fleur Qui Meurt" for a dinner party; and "Jardin de Mon Curé" for the Opera. If you are passing through the Rue de la Paix, call in at Guerlain's and judge how exquisite is her taste." 

A John Wanamaker ad from the Delaware County Times, 1902:

The one man in the Old World bold enough to use nothing but the finest ingredients in his perfumes is M. Guerlain of Rue de la Paix, Paris. He employs only the purest suet to extract the essence of flowers, and the purest alcohol to release their fragrance. His extracts are true, offering a delicacy or intensity depending on your choice, for nothing in nature that breathes sweetness escapes the keen, discerning nose of Guerlain.

Take, for example, his extract Far West (which we exclusively offer in America), where the woods have gifted their damp, earthy, cedar-like aroma. It’s a rare experience to have the scent of the wet forest captured in a bottle. Far West is so original and delightful that people can't help but laugh with pleasure at its novelty, even as they claim they don’t like it. Yet, inevitably, they return to it—just as they say they won’t—because it clings irresistibly to the senses.

Another marvel of Guerlain’s craft is Aquarella, a sweet, firm, and enchanting fragrance. It is as delicate as almond blossoms, yet with an underlying substance that captivates. Whatever Guerlain touches is guaranteed to be of the highest purity and quality. Among his other extraordinary creations are Tume, Fragrance, Rup, Gazaki, Verveine, Paris Gem, Geranium de Serre, Floxinia, Aquarella, Full Scent, Far West, Violet du Embaume, Violet de Alger, Le Jardin de Mon Curé, Tsao-Ko, Dix Pétales de Roses, and Belle France. Each of these is a testament to his unmatched artistry.

Bottles:

Presented in the Flacon Plat (Flat) starting in 1890. The bottle was created by Pochet et du Courval. Housed various Guerlain fragrances such as Tsao Ko, Belle France, Dix Petales de Roses, Cyprisine, Le Jardin de Mon Cure, Gavotte, Paris Nouveau, Violette a Deux Sous, Bouquet Mademoiselle, Grande Marechale, Young Princess, and Rodomel.

Flacon Ovale, c1900, photo from drouot

Wartime bottle, c1930s-1940s.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Tsao-Ko, a sophisticated and multifaceted fragrance created by Jacques Guerlain in 1879, had a storied presence in the world of perfumery. Although the exact date of its discontinuation remains unknown, historical records suggest that the perfume continued to captivate audiences well into the early 20th century. By around 1914, Tsao-Ko was still prominently available, reflecting its enduring popularity and the high regard in which it was held.

The fragrance's continued presence during World War II is particularly notable. In a time marked by significant global upheaval, the allure of Tsao-Ko persisted, offering a sense of continuity and escapism amidst the chaos. This enduring appeal highlights not only the fragrance's timeless qualities but also its role in providing moments of comfort and sophistication during turbulent times. The scent of Tsao-Ko would have been a rare and cherished luxury, its complex blend of powdery and oriental notes offering a touch of elegance and refinement that stood in stark contrast to the harsh realities of the era.