Vega by Guerlain c1926

In 1926, Vega by Guerlain was launched, a creation by the renowned perfumer Jacques Guerlain. The name Vega was chosen for its celestial connection, named after one of the brightest stars in the night sky, more radiant than the sun itself. Jacques Guerlain, passionate about the mysteries of the universe and regularly consulting treatises on astronomy, found inspiration in this distant star. The name Vega comes from the Arabic word "Al-Waqi," which means "the diving eagle," a reference to the star’s positioning in the Lyra constellation. Interestingly, around 12,000 years ago, Earth's rotational axis passed through Vega, making it the North Star during that time. The idea of a star once guiding the planet would have captivated Guerlain, as it represented timeless beauty, power, and an eternal connection to the cosmos. Pronounced "Vay-gah," the word Vega rolls off the tongue with a sense of grace and ethereal elegance.

The name Vega evokes images of the vast, infinite sky, filled with sparkling stars, and the sense of awe that comes with contemplating the enormity of the universe. It brings to mind the brilliance of a star that has guided civilizations, suggesting both a sense of history and cosmic mystery. The word carries a duality—on one hand, it evokes an eagle’s majestic dive, a symbol of strength and power; on the other, it conjures an image of a distant star, burning bright in the cold expanse of space. In scent, Vega would be interpreted as something otherworldly, a fragrance that captures the cold clarity of starlight and the vastness of space, balanced by the warmth and radiance of its celestial inspiration.

Vega is classified as an aldehydic floral fragrance, and the inclusion of aldehydes plays a significant role in how the perfume evokes the cosmos. Aldehydes bring a sparkling, effervescent quality to fragrances, often described as "soapy" or "metallic," but in Vega, they create the sensation of shimmering stardust, a crystalline brightness that feels as if it belongs to another realm. Aldehydes lend a unique abstraction to the fragrance, suggesting the cold, crisp air of outer space, where stars glitter in the silence. This effervescent quality also adds a sense of distance and mystery, much like gazing at stars from Earth. The floral notes, roses, jasmine, and ylang-ylang, are softened and abstracted by the aldehydes, giving them a luminous, almost intangible quality, like the scent of flowers carried by a gentle cosmic breeze.

In the 1920s, the world was fascinated by the mysteries of the universe, with astronomy influencing not only science but also the arts, fashion, and perfumery. The post-war era brought about an intense curiosity for exploration and the unknown, with the modern woman looking toward the future. Art Deco, with its sleek, geometric designs, took inspiration from both ancient cultures and futuristic ideas, while films and literature began to explore themes of space and the cosmos. Naming a perfume after a star in this period would have held significant meaning—it was an era when people were captivated by progress, modernity, and the wonders of the universe. A fragrance named Vega would have symbolized sophistication, the allure of the unknown, and a sense of timelessness.

For women of the time, Vega would have been more than just a perfume—it would have been an emblem of modernity, a connection to the infinite possibilities of the future, as well as the elegance and mystery of the night sky. Wearing Vega would have evoked a sense of freedom, the idea of reaching beyond the ordinary, embodying the sophistication and curiosity of the 1920s woman. In a time when fashion, art, and society were breaking free from the confines of tradition, Vega would have resonated as a symbol of both beauty and boldness—a fragrance that, like the star it was named after, shone with unmatched brilliance.

Original Fragrance Composition:

What does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: aldehyde, jasmine, bergamot, neroli 
• Middle notes: jasmine, rose, ylang ylang, sweet acacia, orange blossom, vetiver, patchouli, sandalwood orris, vanilla
• Base notes: jasmine, heliotrope, musk, tonka bean

Vogue, 1936:

"Vega by Guerlain, flowers, transposed by the organ of perfumes onto the celestial register."

Scent Profile:

As I encounter Vega, the first inhalation is a flash of brightness, like starlight breaking through the vast expanse of the cosmos. The aldehydes burst forth with the force of a supernova—sharp, radiant, and cold, they sparkle in the air like distant stars twinkling against the inky black of space. The aldehydes lend a crispness to the fragrance, creating a feeling of suspended light, as if I am gazing at the endless galaxies, their brilliance undimmed by time or distance. There’s a metallic sheen to them, as if the scent captures the silence and vastness of the universe itself.

As this cosmic brilliance fades into the atmosphere, a warmer celestial glow begins to appear. Bergamot flickers like the pale yellow of a rising sun on a distant planet, its citrusy, slightly bitter essence giving the sensation of light without heat. There’s an energy here, bright and fresh, as if the early morning glow of a new star system is slowly coming into focus. Neroli follows, its honeyed, floral sweetness like the golden rays of a setting star—soft, tender, and radiant, evoking warmth and life amidst the cold reaches of space. The interplay of these notes creates a sensation of both immense power and gentle beauty, like the dance of light across the heavens.

Beneath this starry opening, Vega’s heart begins to pulse, drawing me closer to the cosmic nebula where stars are born. Jasmine is at the core, blooming with the soft, white glow of a distant star cluster. It is rich and heady, like the gaseous clouds from which new worlds form—dense, floral, and sweet, yet tinged with mystery. This jasmine feels eternal, its beauty echoing through the cosmos like a celestial bloom that drifts on solar winds. Rose, too, emerges, its petals velvety and deep crimson, offering a touch of warmth, as though I’m encountering the first signs of life in a new galaxy. Together, jasmine and rose form a perfect balance, representing the dual nature of creation—both delicate and powerful.

The golden hue of ylang ylang appears next, like a pulsar, flashing rhythmically with a creamy, slightly fruity richness. It warms the heart of the fragrance, infusing it with a tropical, almost exotic pulse, much like the radiant energy of a star growing ever more vibrant. The delicate powdery sweetness of sweet acacia weaves through, lending a soft, dreamy quality, like the mist of distant cosmic clouds. It feels like a soft breeze in space, tender and light, a whisper of something ancient and familiar yet distant.

Further into this celestial journey, I detect the grounding presence of vetiver and patchouli, the earthy, woody tones anchoring the vastness of the cosmos. Vetiver is sharp and dry, like the dusty surfaces of alien worlds, its scent almost reminiscent of the arid, untouched landscapes of moons and planets. Patchouli follows, deep and rich, echoing the mysterious shadows of the universe’s darker corners, where unknown worlds hide in the cold, silent expanse. These earthy tones tether the fragrance to the physical realm, connecting the celestial dance to the very fabric of the universe itself.

Sandalwood lends a creamy, woody warmth, as smooth and luminous as the soft glow of a planetary ring. Its scent feels ancient, like the remnants of long-forgotten civilizations, echoing through space. Orris, with its powdery, violet-like elegance, adds a touch of cool refinement, like the surface of a moon kissed by distant starlight. This heart of Vega feels like a constellation, each floral and earthy note orbiting the other, creating a delicate balance that reflects the perfect harmony of the cosmos.

As Vega settles into its base, the fragrance becomes softer, like the fading light of a distant star. The lingering heliotrope offers a soft, almond-like sweetness, delicate and comforting, as if the scent of dusk has descended on an ancient galaxy. Musk adds an ethereal depth, almost animalistic in its raw beauty, as though it captures the very essence of life itself, traveling across the stars. The tonka bean brings a warm, almost caramel-like sweetness, a final whisper of comfort in the cool expanse of space, blending with the vanilla to create a smooth, enveloping cocoon of scent.

Throughout this journey, Vega feels as if it is channeling the vastness of the universe, each ingredient a star, a planet, or a celestial body orbiting around each other, forming a fragrance that captures both the infinite beauty of the cosmos and the quiet mysteries that lie beyond the stars. Each note feels like a cosmic dance, a reflection of the endless cycles of creation and destruction, the endless stretch of time and space, all captured in the delicate blend of this fragrance. Vega is a tribute to the stars, a scent that evokes the awe-inspiring beauty of the universe, while grounding us in the mystery of the heavens.

Bottles:

The parfum was originally housed in the 4 oz Encrier, the inkwell shaped bottle, made by Baccarat and packaged in a Bakelite box.

Other bottles were the Quadrilobe flacon (parfum), the Goutte flacon (eau de toilette), and the Montre flacon (eau de cologne).

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Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued (date unknown). It was still being sold in 1953.

1998 Reformulation & Reissue:

In 1998, Guerlain decided to bring back Vega, reintroducing the classic fragrance in a limited edition that would captivate both longtime admirers and new enthusiasts. This reissue was not just a simple relaunch; it was a celebration of the timeless allure that Jacques Guerlain had originally crafted in 1926. Only 853 numbered copies of the parfum were produced, making the fragrance an exclusive treasure for collectors and lovers of the Guerlain house. Guerlain maintained the essence of the original, but the fragrance was reformulated using modern ingredients, likely to meet updated regulations and adapt to contemporary preferences while still preserving the character and spirit of the original formula.

The parfum was housed in the same elegant "encrier" flacon, a bottle design that mirrored the opulence and sophistication of the Art Deco period. This ink-well-shaped bottle, with its clean lines and understated luxury, remained faithful to Guerlain’s heritage, connecting the reissued Vega to its illustrious past. Holding 2 ounces of parfum, the bottle retained the grandeur of the original release, a nod to both Guerlain's respect for tradition and its desire to create a lasting impression.

The packaging itself was a careful reproduction of the original 1926 presentation, complete with the star motif adorning the top of the box. This detail was significant, as it echoed the celestial inspiration behind Vega, named after the radiant star that fascinated Jacques Guerlain. The star symbol, gleaming atop the box, evoked the same sense of wonder and cosmic beauty that the fragrance was meant to capture, further enhancing the luxurious and otherworldly experience of owning this rare parfum.

However, despite its undeniable allure, the 1998 reissue of Vega was a fleeting moment in Guerlain’s history. Once the 853 bottles were sold, Vega was discontinued, making it an elusive and highly coveted piece of the Guerlain legacy. Those fortunate enough to acquire the parfum secured not only a piece of fragrance history but also a symbol of the enduring beauty and craftsmanship that defines Guerlain's creations.

2005 Reformulation & Reissue:

In 2005, Jean-Paul Guerlain undertook the delicate task of reformulating Vega, ensuring its timeless charm would resonate with a modern audience. This reimagined version of Vega was carefully crafted using contemporary ingredients, honoring its original essence while adapting to changes in olfactory trends and regulatory standards. Jean-Paul Guerlain, the grandson of the legendary Jacques Guerlain, approached the project with reverence, preserving the celestial elegance of the scent while subtly modernizing its composition to appeal to the 21st-century perfume lover.

This relaunch was not just any release; it coincided with the grand reopening of Guerlain’s flagship store on the Champs-Elysées in Paris. The store itself had been a beacon of luxury and refinement for decades, and its renovation represented a renewed dedication to the house's heritage and its future. The relaunch of Vega served as a fitting tribute to both the legacy of the perfume house and the splendor of the newly renovated store.

In this new formulation, Vega continued to embody the same cosmic inspiration that Jacques Guerlain had originally intended. Jean-Paul retained the fragrance’s signature aldehydic floral character, but with a refined balance that felt more attuned to contemporary preferences. The vibrant aldehydes and floral heart remained, but the modern ingredients infused the scent with a fresh, radiant glow, making it more accessible while maintaining its allure.

This 2005 reissue marked a return to the luminous, star-inspired fantasy of Vega, but with a renewed sophistication befitting its place in the heart of Guerlain’s revitalized Champs-Elysées flagship. Once again, Vega stood as a symbol of both the house’s mastery of perfumery and its enduring connection to the cosmos, a celestial fragrance fit for modern times but grounded in history.

From Guerlain:

Passionate about great spaces, Jacques Guerlain consulted regularly treatises on astronomy and was dazzled by the power of this star. In Arabic, the Vega name means "Eagle dive", perhaps to recall that there 12,000 years, the axis of rotation of the Earth passed through Vega, while North Star.  

Perfume for freedom-loving women, it is the symbol of that carefree era when we ignore the dark clouds piled up gently on the international peace. 

Reformulated Fragrance Composition:

What does it smell like? It is classified as a floral aldehyde, built around jasmine flower which blends woody and powdery notes.

• Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, orange blossom
• Middle notes: jasmine, ylang ylang, rose, black currant blossom, carnation, iris, rosewood
• Base notes: vanilla, sandalwood, amber

Scent Profile:

As I first encounter the reformulated Vega, its top notes instantly transport me into a sparkling, celestial realm. The aldehydes are bright, like starlight breaking through the dark expanse of space, crisp and effervescent. Their sharpness immediately grabs attention, creating a sense of brightness that feels both timeless and modern. Beneath this initial burst, the bergamot emerges, adding a citrusy, slightly bitter edge, reminiscent of distant solar flares. Its zest cuts through the airy aldehydes, grounding them with a fresh, lively brightness. 

Then, the warmth of orange blossom blooms—delicate yet rich, with a honeyed sweetness that softens the sharper aldehydic shimmer. The orange blossom is like a whisper of solar heat, sweet and radiant, lingering like the warmth of sunlight.

As the fragrance settles, the middle notes reveal themselves, led by the intoxicating allure of jasmine. The star of the composition, jasmine is lush, heady, and deeply floral, evoking the vast expanses of star-filled skies, with each blossom unfurling as if to mirror the stars above. It’s sensual yet light, bringing to mind the image of soft moonlight falling on night-blooming flowers. 

Ylang ylang adds an exotic, almost tropical depth to this cosmic bouquet, with its rich, creamy sweetness swirling among the floral notes, like the velvety darkness of space itself. Rose emerges next, lending a timeless, romantic elegance—its petals unfolding with both delicacy and strength. There's a subtle hint of black currant blossom, bringing a whisper of fruity sharpness, like a comet flashing through a distant sky, balancing the florals with a playful tartness. 

The spicy clove-like note of carnation adds a layer of complexity, reminding me of the ancient beauty found in distant galaxies. Meanwhile, iris lends a soft, powdery texture, like stardust, delicate and ethereal, while rosewood brings a gentle woodiness, grounding the florals with a touch of the earth.

Finally, as the scent lingers on the skin, the base notes begin to emerge, like the slow rotation of celestial bodies into view. Vanilla is sweet and comforting, wrapping the floral heart in a warm embrace, like the glow of a distant star. It’s creamy and rich, yet not overpowering, blending seamlessly with the other notes. 

Sandalwood provides a velvety, smooth foundation, its woody, slightly milky scent evoking a sense of timelessness, much like the eternal constellations. Its warmth and earthiness contrast beautifully with the heady florals, grounding the fragrance with a serene, meditative quality. Finally, the deep, resinous amber gives the base a golden glow, adding a soft, sensual warmth that lingers like the afterglow of twilight, shimmering softly as it fades away.

Together, these notes create a cosmic journey, where each layer of Vega evokes the mystery, beauty, and vastness of space. The florals feel like a garden in the stars, with the woody and powdery undertones reminding us of the infinite universe around us. As each note unfolds, Vega becomes not just a fragrance, but an olfactory representation of the celestial and the divine, timeless in its elegance yet as modern and radiant as the stars themselves.

Bottle:

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued since 2015.