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Friday, February 8, 2013

Le Fleurs de Guildo by Guerlain c1885

Le Fleurs de Guildo, launched by Guerlain in 1885, carries a name evocative of its regional inspiration and cultural significance. "Le Fleurs de Guildo" translates to "The Flowers of Guildo," referencing the picturesque village of Guildo in Brittany, France. The choice of this name suggests a romanticized vision of the French countryside, where the lush flora and serene landscapes inspire a sense of elegance and tranquility.

The name conjures images of vibrant, blooming flowers set against a backdrop of Brittany’s rugged coastlines and quaint village charm. It evokes a romantic, almost pastoral aesthetic, reflecting the delicate and fresh nature of the fragrance. To interpret "Le Fleurs de Guildo" in terms of scent, one might imagine a bouquet of floral notes, reminiscent of the natural flora found in the region, with a subtle hint of the coastal breeze. This evokes an atmosphere of refinement and natural beauty, with a fragrance that captures the essence of a charming, rural escape.

Women of the late 19th century, particularly young women targeted by the marketing of the extrait according to Alice de Laincel's L'art de la toilette chez la femme: bréviaire de la vie élégante, would have been drawn to the fragrance’s association with freshness and natural beauty. The perfume’s name and scent would align with the era's aesthetic values, which celebrated refinement, elegance, and a connection to nature. The late 1800s was a period marked by a growing interest in natural and botanical themes in fashion and fragrance, reflecting a broader societal appreciation for the elegance of the natural world and its influence on personal style.

In this context, "Le Fleurs de Guildo" not only embodied the spirit of its namesake but also catered to the period's taste for sophisticated, nature-inspired fragrances, resonating with women seeking to express their elegance and embrace the beauty of the natural world.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was the fresh smell of the plants by the sea, with possible marine notes. 
  • Top notes: lavender, heather, sweet briar, broom
  • Middle notes: geranium, violet, rose, jasmine, lily
  • Base notes: ambergris, vanilla

Scent Profile:


Le Fleurs de Guildo unfolds like a journey through a fragrant seaside garden, where the crisp, fresh notes of the marine environment intertwine with the lush, blooming flora.

The top notes of lavender, heather, sweet briar, and broom immediately transport you to a coastal landscape. Imagine the scent of lavender, with its calming and herbaceous aroma, gently mingling with the subtle earthy sweetness of heather, evoking the wild beauty of moorlands. 

The sweet briar adds a delicate, rose-like nuance with a hint of fruitiness, reminiscent of wild, untamed brambles flourishing near the shore. Completing this fresh opening is the airy and slightly honeyed scent of broom, adding a touch of sunshine and warmth to the blend.

As you delve deeper, the fragrance transitions to the heart notes, where a bouquet of geranium, violet, rose, jasmine, and lily emerges. Geranium contributes a green, slightly minty aroma with floral undertones, enhancing the fragrance's garden-like quality. Violet offers a soft, powdery sweetness that feels both delicate and enchanting. 

The rose adds a classic, lush floral richness, embodying romance and timeless elegance. Jasmine brings a heady, exotic sweetness, evoking a sense of nighttime bloom, while the lily infuses the composition with its fresh, clean, and subtly spicy scent, reminiscent of a serene garden in full bloom.

The base notes of ambergris and vanilla create a warm, sensual foundation that lingers softly on the skin. The ambergris, with its rich, marine and slightly animalic quality, enhances the fragrance's sea-inspired theme, adding depth and complexity. Vanilla provides a smooth, creamy sweetness, grounding the perfume with its comforting and familiar scent, creating a perfect counterpoint to the vibrant florals and marine notes.

Together, these ingredients in Le Fleurs de Guildo evoke a harmonious blend of nature’s most enchanting elements, capturing the essence of a coastal garden in full bloom, where every scent is a reflection of the fresh, invigorating sea breeze and the lush, blossoming flora.


Journal des demoiselles - Page 3, 1886:
"The best colognes for winter: Eau de Chypre, Eau de Judée, Benzoin extract. As fashionable perfumes: Primavera de Espagne, Impérial Russe, l'Opéra bouquet, the new fragrance Fleurs de Guildo has a great success, its flavor is exquisite, sweet, it is fresh and persistent."

Les Lettres et les arts, 1887:
"Flowers and plants are wonderfully authentic in their essence. However, the initial perfume seemed to lack something crucial. Yet, it's remarkably simple to transform this elusive quality into something tangible. Our perfumer, Guerlain, has a unique ability to capture the most delicate nuances of a flower's soul. Just a drop of their perfume can breathe life into what was once merely an illusion. 
With essences of violet, rose, and geranium, along with broom flowers picked from the Breton moors of Guildo, and hints of heliotrope or lily of the valley, a few spritzes can bring this bouquet to life. It awakens and sings, creating a harmonious symphony that fills the air and mingles with the environment. This fragrant masterpiece rests in a vase adorned with the vibrant beauty of Venetian glass. It’s hard to believe these blossoms are not real, but rather an exquisite artificial creation."


Journal des demoiselles - Page 244, 1890:
"The other two products are extracts designed for handkerchiefs, featuring the scents of Jicky and Fleurs de Guildo. Jicky is a uniquely suave and original tropical fragrance with no comparable counterpart. Those who have experienced it express great enthusiasm and frequently request it again, indicating its early signs of success. 
Fleurs de Guildo, on the other hand, is both pleasant and long-lasting, evoking a vivid and exhilarating impression reminiscent of coastal flora. It is particularly appealing to those who favor bold, pronounced scents. Additionally, there are two other subtle and distinguished perfumes aimed at young ladies: Primavera, inspired by Spain, and Verbena, known for its refined and delicate freshness."


 La Ilustración española y americana - Volume 35, 1891:

"Recommended Articles from Paris: For our readers seeking advice on hygiene and maintaining freshness, we are pleased to recommend a distinguished product. Hegemonienne by Guerlain, available at 15 rue de la Paix, Paris, is an exceptional choice. This alcoholate, akin to eau de Cologne, shares its fundamental qualities but offers a more refined, pleasant, and lasting fragrance. It is poised to become a staple among the most esteemed toilet waters, appealing to those with discerning tastes.
Additionally, Guerlain has recently introduced two highly successful handkerchief extracts. Fleurs de Guildo evokes the crisp, invigorating scents of the sea, capturing the essence of coastal flora in a delightful and refreshing perfume. Jicky, a rare and potent tropical fragrance, provides clarity to the senses and delivers a uniquely exquisite experience. Both are sure to impress and enchant those who value exceptional fragrances."

Bottles:

Housed in the Carre flacon and others.









Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown. You can purchase a bottle from my good friend Alexandra Star.

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