Foin Coupe by Guerlain c1850

Foin Coupé by Guerlain, launched in 1850 and likely crafted in the 1830s, draws its evocative name from the French phrase meaning "cut hay." This name captures a vivid pastoral scene, conjuring the image of freshly harvested hay fields with their crisp, green, and slightly sweet aroma. The term "Foin Coupé" embodies the rustic charm and the sensory pleasure associated with the countryside at harvest time. By evoking the essence of new mown hay, the name suggests a fragrance that is both fresh and intimately connected to nature.

The olfactory interpretation of Foin Coupé would center around this imagery. The scent would likely open with vibrant, green notes reminiscent of freshly cut grass and hay, carrying a hint of the sweetness and dryness of sun-dried hay. This would appeal to both men and women of the time who were drawn to fragrances that mirrored the natural world and evoked a sense of pastoral tranquility.

During the 19th century, the popularity of Foin Coupé (Guerlain also released in English as "New Mown Hay") reflects a broader trend in perfumery of incorporating natural elements into scent compositions. Fragrances of this period often sought to capture the essence of nature, blending floral and green notes with a touch of the animalic to create depth. The use of natural extracts, infusions, and tinctures was common, but as the century progressed, the inclusion of synthetics like coumarin in the 1896 reformulation allowed for a more consistent and long-lasting representation of these natural scents.

In the context of other fragrances available at the time, New Mown Hay stands out for its distinct approach. While many perfumes were focusing on rich, floral, and exotic notes, Guerlain's choice to craft a scent around the more humble and earthy aroma of cut hay offered a refreshing contrast. This innovative approach highlighted a growing appreciation for authenticity in scent and a deepened connection to the natural world, marking Foin Coupé as both a product of its time and a unique departure from prevailing trends.

New Mown Hay emerged as a quintessential fragrance of the 19th century, resonating with the pastoral elegance and rustic charm of its namesake. During this period, like Guerlain, nearly every perfumery boasted their own rendition of this scent, reflecting its widespread appeal and significance. The perfume's formulation, detailed in numerous perfumery manuals and pharmacopeias, combined floral notes with subtle animalic undertones, capturing the essence of freshly cut hay.

Initially crafted using natural extracts, infusions, absolutes, and tinctures, New Mown Hay would have conveyed a rich, multifaceted aroma reminiscent of sun-drenched fields. These ingredients aimed to evoke the crisp, green scent of newly harvested hay, blended with floral notes to enrich the fragrance's complexity. However, as the 19th century progressed, the introduction of synthetic compounds transformed the perfume industry. In 1896, New Mown Hay was reformulated to incorporate coumarin, a synthetic essence isolated in 1868 and known for its hay-like scent. This innovation enhanced the perfume's longevity and consistency, marking a significant shift in fragrance composition and demonstrating the era's growing embrace of synthetic materials alongside traditional natural ingredients.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a sweet, woodsy floral fragrance for men and women. It had notes of new mown hay, herbal notes, tonka, sweet woodruff.

• Top notes: bergamot, rose geranium, neroli, lavender
• Middle notes: herbs, moss rose, orris, clove, sweet woodruff, almond
• Base notes: tonka bean, musk, benzoin, vanilla, styrax, sandalwood, patchouli, oakmoss

The scent of new mown hay has always been a favorite in perfumery. Foin Coupé as it is known in France, evokes the fresh hay cut during a sunny day. Like an open window, this scent recalls sun-drenched summer days. It is made up of different herbs and wild flowers. The fragrance of new mown hay usually has to be made synthetically. The sweetness comes from coumarin, an aromatic lactone being present in several grasses, sweet vernal grass and bison grass, for instance. The coumarin is glycosidically bound in the green plants but is liberated upon withering of the grass.

In perfumery, the "new mown hay" scent is almost an archetype. Based on coumarin (and analogues), and often supplemented with mossy and green nuances, this odor complex enters a multitude of fragrances. Actually coumarin was one of the first perfumery ingredients to be made by organic synthesis. Coumarin was created by William Perkin of England in 1868, an important aroma-chemical which has a hay-like aroma with coconut under tones, however it is banned as a food additive in the United States due to toxicity; is used to produce anti-coagulant medicines, rat poison, a valuable component of incense and perfumes. Coumarin is a fine white crystal that smells like new mown hay. It gives a mild powdery sweet hay note and a great deal of volume and fullness to a perfume. Tonka bean contains a lot of coumarin and smells similar.

An early perfumery masterpiece utilizing synthetic coumarin was Fougère Royale by Houbigant, launched in 1882. Houbigant combined the sweet scent of Coumarin with lavender, citrus and woody notes. It is this basic structure that defines a Fougere. Guerlain created Jicky in 1889 which was their first scent using coumarin.

Hay Absolute: Of the genus foin coupe. The term Hay in this place refers to the type of 'new mown hay.' ; has been used for perfume base creations for many decades; the aroma is powerful and extremely sweet, quite diffusive, coumarin-like and faintly herbaceous, very uniform and tenacious. Used in perfumery not only in 'new mown hay' bases, or in combination with flouve, melilot, tonka, woodruff, deertongue, etc., but also as an individual note to be introduced whenever a truly herbaceous sweet under tone is required.
 

Scent Profile:

Foin Coupe is a fragrance that captures the essence of a sunlit meadow after the harvest, blending sweet and woodsy notes to create a sophisticated olfactory experience.

The top notes of Foin Coupe introduce a bright and invigorating scent profile. As you first encounter this fragrance, you are greeted by the sparkling citrus freshness of bergamot. It’s as if you’ve just walked into a lush garden, with the bergamot’s zesty aroma lifting your spirits. Intertwined with this is the delicate, slightly rosy fragrance of rose geranium, offering a subtle floral touch that is both calming and uplifting. Neroli adds a layer of sweet, citrusy depth, reminiscent of orange blossoms in full bloom, while lavender infuses the scent with its soothing, herbaceous quality, conjuring images of sun-drenched fields and tranquil relaxation.

As the fragrance evolves, the middle notes unfold, revealing a rich tapestry of herbal and floral elements. The scent of fresh herbs brings a green, slightly medicinal edge, evoking the aroma of an herb garden on a warm day. Moss rose introduces a gentle, velvety floral note, adding a touch of sophistication. Orris root, with its soft, powdery essence, creates a subtle, luxurious backdrop. The warm, spicy aroma of clove mingles with the sweet, green fragrance of sweet woodruff, reminiscent of freshly mown hay and grassy fields. Almond introduces a creamy, nutty nuance that enhances the fragrance’s overall sweetness, reminiscent of freshly cut hay mixed with a hint of nutty warmth.

The base notes of Foin Coupe anchor the fragrance with a complex, woodsy sweetness. Tonka bean delivers a rich, vanilla-like aroma with subtle hints of spice, adding depth and warmth. Musk provides a sensual, animalic undertone, while benzoin’s resinous sweetness creates a comforting, balsamic quality. Vanilla and styrax together evoke the richness of a warm, sunlit day, with a creamy, sweet aroma that lingers enticingly. Sandalwood offers a smooth, creamy woodiness, adding a touch of earthiness, while patchouli contributes a rich, musky depth. Oakmoss ties the composition together with its earthy, forest-like quality, evoking the scent of damp woodland and the natural richness of the earth.

Overall, Foin Coupe presents a harmonious blend of sweet, woodsy, and floral notes, creating a fragrance that is both inviting and complex, embodying the serene beauty of the countryside and the elegance of a well-crafted perfume.

Bottle:

Presented in the Carre flacon.

Fate of the Fragrance:

It was reformulated in 1896 to include the newly discovered synthetic essence coumarin. Discontinued, date unknown.