Guerlinade by Guerlain c1921

Guerlinade, introduced by Guerlain in 1921, was a significant creation by Jacques Guerlain, emblematic of the brand's signature style. The name "Guerlinade" is a blend of "Guerlain" and the suffix "-ade," which is often used in French to denote a product or essence. Pronounced "Guer-lin-ahd," it evokes a sense of sophistication and craftsmanship synonymous with the House of Guerlain. The term suggests a bespoke creation, deeply connected to the Guerlain identity and its rich heritage in perfumery.

The fragrance Guerlinade is defined by its iconic accord, which became the hallmark of Guerlain's olfactory creations. This accord, consisting of rose, jasmine, vanilla, and tonka bean, represents what is often described as the "soul" of Guerlain's perfumes. In scent, Guerlinade exudes a deep, complex warmth that blends the romantic and timeless qualities of rose and jasmine with the comforting sweetness of vanilla and the subtle, nutty richness of tonka bean. The result is a fragrance that feels both lush and intimate, capturing a sense of classic elegance and enduring appeal.

In the early 1920s, when Guerlinade was launched, the world of perfumery was experiencing significant evolution. This period marked a transition from the opulence of the Belle Époque to the modernism of the Roaring Twenties. Women of the time, who had become more liberated and fashion-forward, would have found Guerlinade to be a sophisticated and luxurious choice, aligning with their evolving tastes and the desire for distinctive, high-quality fragrances.

Rose, jasmine, vanilla, and tonka bean were not only central to the composition of Guerlinade but also held important roles in the broader perfume industry. Rose and jasmine were prized for their rich, floral notes, which symbolized both elegance and romance. Vanilla added a sweet, comforting warmth, while tonka bean contributed a complex, slightly spicy undertone. During this era, Guerlain likely sourced these raw materials from their traditional suppliers, which included French colonies and regions renowned for their high-quality ingredients, such as the rose fields of Grasse in France and vanilla plantations in Madagascar. The careful selection and blending of these elements created a fragrance that was as luxurious as it was timeless, embodying the essence of Guerlain's renowned expertise in perfumery.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women.

• Top notes: neroli, aldehyde, bergamot, peach
• Heart notes: jasmine, rose, orange blossom, patchouli, musk, orris, vetiver
• Base notes: sage, vanilla, tonka bean, almond

A reader sent me a very old sample of the original version of Guerlinade and I found it to be quite herbal, green, masculine and strong.

The first sniff revealed nose tickling aldehydes, similar to those found in Chanel No.5. Hesperidic notes of neroli and bergamot vie for my attention, then a slight hint of peach joins the group. Then a rush of earthy notes from the patchouli and vetiver give the perfume a hint of green leaves and iris gives us a bit of crunchy carrot. A trace of sweetened vanilla, almond and powdery tonka bean peek out here and there. A bouquet of roses, jasmine, orange blossom make my acquaintance but quietly bow out so that the musky base could take over.

My overall impression is that this is definitely an "older" perfume, it would probably be too much for modern women's tastes, but would perhaps be more comfortable on a man's skin as the florals are quite muted and the earthy, herbal notes sing soprano. I do find it quite unusual, but quite interesting. It is not sugary sweet, not heavy on the vanilla, like some other Guerlain fragrances.

Many years later, I was able to obtain a sample from my good friend Alexandra Star, who has lots of rare antique Guerlain treasures in her etsy shop, Parfums de Paris. If you are interested in experiencing the deliciousness of Guerlinade, stroll on over to her shop and take a look around.  

Scent Profile:

Guerlinade unfolds with a captivating blend of top notes that immediately set a vibrant and fresh tone. The scent opens with the crisp, slightly green aroma of neroli, which delivers a bright, citrusy sparkle reminiscent of orange blossoms kissed by morning dew. This freshness is further accentuated by aldehydes, which impart a clean, soapy quality that adds a touch of elegance and sophistication. 

As the aldehydes merge with the bergamot, the fragrance develops a radiant, zesty edge, reminiscent of a sunlit citrus grove. The juicy sweetness of peach then rounds out the top notes, adding a soft, fruity layer that feels both luscious and inviting, evoking the first hint of summer's warmth.

As Guerlinade transitions to its heart, it reveals a rich and opulent floral bouquet. The heart notes are dominated by the lush, creamy essence of jasmine, which unfolds like a cascade of delicate, white petals, offering a heady, intoxicating scent that is both sensual and sophisticated. This is seamlessly intertwined with the classic, romantic aroma of rose, which brings a deep, velvety richness that contrasts beautifully with the jasmine's brightness. 

Orange blossom contributes a sweet, honeyed nuance that enhances the floral opulence, while the addition of patchouli introduces an earthy, woody depth that grounds the fragrance. Musk and orris add a soft, powdery texture that blends with the floral notes, creating a luxurious, well-rounded heart. Vetiver, with its smoky, woody undertones, provides a subtle yet intriguing complexity, anchoring the floral elements with its distinctive, earthy character.

In the base, Guerlinade reveals a warm and comforting finish. Sage imparts a fresh, aromatic quality that enhances the fragrance's depth with its herbaceous, slightly peppery aroma. Vanilla introduces a sweet, creamy warmth that envelops the senses, creating a rich, indulgent backdrop. 

Tonka bean adds an additional layer of complexity with its nuanced notes of almond and spice, which mingle beautifully with the vanilla. The base is rounded out by the soft, nutty aroma of almond, which adds a final touch of warmth and richness, leaving a lingering, sumptuous impression.

Together, these elements create a fragrance that is both elegant and enveloping, a perfect embodiment of the floral oriental genre that blends freshness, opulence, and warmth in a harmonious, timeless composition.

Bottles:

Presented in the Lyre flacon (parfum) in the 1920s and 1930s, the quadrilobe flacon (parfum), the Guerre flacon (parfum) and in the Amphore flacon (parfum) in the 1950s.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Guerlinade, a hallmark of Guerlain's storied fragrance legacy, was discontinued at an unspecified time, but it continued to grace perfume counters through the 1950s. This beloved scent, launched in 1921, holds a distinguished place in Guerlain's perfume archives, celebrated for its unique blend that encapsulated the essence of early 20th-century sophistication.

In the 1950s, Guerlinade remained a cherished classic among fragrance connoisseurs. The perfume's intricate composition, featuring a harmonious blend of floral and oriental elements, resonated with the era's growing appreciation for both traditional and avant-garde perfume creations. The scent's continued presence on the market during this decade reflects its enduring appeal and the deep connection it had with the Guerlain brand’s heritage.

Although its exact date of discontinuation is not documented, the fact that Guerlinade was still being sold in the 1950s speaks to its lasting popularity. By this time, the fragrance had established itself as a timeless piece of Guerlain’s portfolio, symbolizing the elegance and innovation that defined the House. The lingering availability of Guerlinade well into the 1950s is a testament to its status as a beloved classic, cherished for its rich, complex scent that captured the essence of an earlier, glamorous era.

1998 Reformulation & Reissue:

Guerlinade, a cherished fragrance with a storied legacy, experienced a lengthy hiatus before its grand reintroduction in 1998. The scent, originally crafted with a distinctive Guerlain accord, was discontinued for several years, leaving aficionados to reminisce about its once-celebrated aroma. In a move that delighted perfume enthusiasts, Jean-Paul Guerlain undertook the monumental task of re-orchestrating Guerlinade, infusing it with a fresh perspective while preserving its classic allure.

The 1998 revival of Guerlinade was launched as a floriental eau de parfum, a genre known for its harmonious blend of floral and oriental notes. This reimagined version retained the essence of the House’s iconic perfumery accord, which masterfully combines rose, jasmine, vanilla, and tonka bean. The result was a fragrance that paid homage to its historical roots while resonating with contemporary olfactory tastes, however, the perfume was a whole new scent, unlike its predecessor. 

This reissue was marked by its exclusivity and limited production run. Only 50,000 bottles were crafted, emphasizing the perfume's rarity and desirability. Among these, 3,500 bottles were designated for the U.S. market, adding a layer of prestige and allure for collectors and connoisseurs in the American fragrance community. The 1998 release of Guerlinade not only celebrated the fragrance’s return but also reinforced Guerlain's dedication to preserving its rich heritage while innovating for the future.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral amber (formerly known as an oriental) fragrance for women.

• Top notes: Calabrian bergamot, Tunisian hesperides
• Middle notes: white lilac, hyacinth, rose and jasmine from Egypt and Grasse
• Base notes: Mayotte vanilla, tonka bean and French iris

Scent Profile:

In the 1998 revival of Guerlinade, the fragrance unfolds with a tantalizingly fresh and sophisticated bouquet. As you first encounter the top notes, the Calabrian bergamot reveals its vibrant, citrusy essence, infusing the air with a sparkling, tangy brightness. 

This is elegantly complemented by the Tunisian hesperides, which add a juicy, sunlit quality, reminiscent of ripe citrus fruits basking in the Mediterranean sun. Together, these top notes create an invigorating and uplifting prelude that beckons you to delve deeper into the fragrance's heart.

As the initial burst of citrus fades, the middle notes emerge with a rich, floral complexity. The white lilac presents itself with a delicate, almost ethereal sweetness, evoking images of a serene garden in full bloom. This is intertwined with the lush, green aroma of hyacinth, which lends a fresh, dewy quality. 

The heart of the fragrance continues to unfold with the opulent scents of rose and jasmine. The rose, sourced from the historic fields of Grasse, exudes a classic, romantic richness, while the Egyptian jasmine contributes a warm, sensual depth, enhancing the fragrance’s floral tapestry. Each of these elements converges to create a sophisticated, floral symphony that is both inviting and enchanting.

As the fragrance settles, the base notes reveal a deeper, more grounding warmth. The Mayotte vanilla introduces a creamy, sweet richness that envelops you in a comforting embrace. This is beautifully balanced by the tonka bean, which adds a hint of warm, almond-like sweetness and a subtle spice. 

The French iris brings a touch of powdery elegance, grounding the fragrance with its refined and sophisticated character. Together, these base notes provide a smooth, luxurious finish that lingers delicately, leaving a lasting impression of elegance and warmth.

In its 1998 reincarnation, Guerlinade captures a masterful blend of freshness, floral opulence, and sensual depth, each note contributing to a timeless and captivating olfactory experience.

Bottle:

The 1998 edition of Guerlinade was presented in an exquisitely crafted crystal flacon, a tribute to the 170th anniversary of Guerlain. Designed by Robert Granai, the bottle drew its inspiration from an ancient bronze vase from Nepal. This ceremonial vase, historically used during weddings, was traditionally filled with rose water and sprinkled over guests as a symbol of good fortune and blessings. Granai’s vision was to capture the essence of this rich tradition and translate it into a modern masterpiece of crystal artistry.

To achieve this, Granai collaborated with Baccarat, renowned for their mastery in crystal craftsmanship. The resulting flacon is a striking homage to the original bronze vase, reimagined in luminous Baccarat crystal. The bottle’s design reflects a harmonious blend of elegance and tradition, with its graceful curves and intricate detailing reminiscent of the ornate bronze vases. The crystal’s clarity and brilliance bring a contemporary twist to the ancient symbol of prosperity, allowing the fragrance’s luxurious essence to be showcased in a vessel of unparalleled beauty.

The Baccarat crystal, with its pristine clarity and radiant sparkle, not only enhances the visual appeal of the bottle but also serves as a fitting container for the refined Guerlinade fragrance. The craftsmanship involved in recreating the ceremonial vase’s shape in crystal highlights both the historical reverence and modern sophistication of the design. This exceptional flacon stands as a testament to Guerlain’s rich heritage and the enduring legacy of its artistry, celebrating the brand’s distinguished past while embracing the elegance of contemporary design.

2005 Reformulation & Reissue:

Guerlain was resurrected and relaunched in 2005 as part of the Les Parisiennes line. The fragrance was available as an eau de parfum in the Flacon Abeilles. Unfortunately, it has been discontinued.