Mitsouko: (Mystery) Created by Jacques Guerlain in 1919. The creation of Mitsouko was inspired by the heroine of Claude Farrčre's novel 'La bataille', a story of an impossible love between Mitsouko, the wife of Japanese Admiral Togo, and a British officer. The story takes place in 1905, during the war between Russia and Japan. Both men went to war, and Mitsouko, hiding her feelings with dignity, waits for the outcome of the battle to discover which of the two men will come back to her and be her companion.
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fruity chypre fragrance for women.
I tested a vintage 1990s sample and it started off with lemon, then the peach note became more prominent followed by a drydown of oakmoss, sandalwood and myrrh.
The line consisted of the following products in the late 1960s-1970s:
Reformulated by Edouard Fléchier in 2000.
In 2009, a special limited numbered edition of 14 Baccarat crystal Bouchon Coeur flacons to celebrate the fragrance’s 90th anniversary: “Mitsouko is 90 this year! Each crystal flacon is decorated with an original jewel in jade and pearls and retails in USA for $7500 for each 450ml eau de parfum flacon. This stunning bottle will house the original Mitsouko Perfume."
Original Fragrance Composition:
So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fruity chypre fragrance for women.- Top notes: privet, aldehyde, jasmine, bergamot, lilac, sweet pea
- Middle notes: heliotrope, jasmine, lilac, rose, orris, pimento, patchouli, vetiver, ambergris
- Base notes: sycamore, musk, oakmoss and vanilla
Marie-Claire, 1937:
"Mitsouko by Guerlain: warm and subtle. Note: chypre."
Reformulated Fragrance Composition:
- Top notes: bergamot, lemon, mandarin, neroli and peach (C14 aldehyde)
- Middle notes: jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang and clove
- Base notes: sandalwood, myrrh, oakmoss, cinnamon and musk.
I tested a vintage 1990s sample and it started off with lemon, then the peach note became more prominent followed by a drydown of oakmoss, sandalwood and myrrh.
The line consisted of the following products in the late 1960s-1970s:
- Parfum
- Parfum Spray
- Eau de Toilette
- Eau de Cologne
- Spray Cologne
- Film Spray Parfumé
- Capillaque
- Bath Oil
- Déodorant
- Talc
- Crème Hydratante
- Flanelle pour le linge
Bottles:
First presented in the ‘golden bee’ flacon by Cristalleries de Baccarat, only 50 examples were produced.
Normally presented in the Bouchon Coeur flacon (parfum) from its inception to the present. It was also available in the Goutte flacon (eau de toilette), the Amphore flacon (parfum), the Montre flacon (eau de cologne), the Guerre flacon (parfum), the Borne flacons (parfum) and more rarely, the Petite Beurre flacon (parfum) for a special presentation for the 100th anniversary of Guerlain in 1928. It was also available in other flacons over the years.
Eau de Cologne, c1940-1950.
c1950s. Photo by ebay seller trust8909
Fate of the Fragrance:
Limited Edition:
In 2009, a special limited numbered edition of 14 Baccarat crystal Bouchon Coeur flacons to celebrate the fragrance’s 90th anniversary: “Mitsouko is 90 this year! Each crystal flacon is decorated with an original jewel in jade and pearls and retails in USA for $7500 for each 450ml eau de parfum flacon. This stunning bottle will house the original Mitsouko Perfume."
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