Quand Vient l'Ete by Guerlain c1910

Quand Vient l'Été by Guerlain, launched in 1910 and created by Jacques Guerlain, carries a name that translates to "When Summer Comes" in French. Pronounced "Kwan Vee-ahnt L'E-tay," the phrase evokes the essence of a lush, sunlit season, full of warmth and promise. This name conjures images of long, golden afternoons, where the air is heavy with the scents of blooming flowers and the earthy richness of summer’s bounty.

The fragrance itself, classified as a floral tobacco scent for women, reflects this evocative summer imagery. The floral notes represent the vibrant and fresh qualities of the season, while the addition of tobacco adds a layer of depth and sophistication. Tobacco, often associated with a rich, smoky warmth, contrasts intriguingly with the delicate floral elements, creating a scent that captures the multifaceted nature of summer—its beauty, complexity, and indulgence.

During the early 20th century, when Quand Vient l'Été was introduced, women’s fragrances were evolving beyond traditional floral notes. The inclusion of tobacco in a women’s perfume was somewhat unconventional at the time, reflecting a broader shift in fragrance trends. Tobacco's presence in the fragrance added a touch of sophistication and a hint of rebellion, aligning with the changing social dynamics where women were increasingly exploring new realms of personal expression.

The period in which this perfume was launched was marked by significant social changes, including the growing acceptance of women in more public and assertive roles. While widespread smoking by women was not yet prevalent, the inclusion of tobacco in a fragrance could be seen as a subtle nod to this emerging trend and an attempt to capture a more nuanced, sophisticated essence of femininity. Guerlain’s choice of name and ingredients likely aimed to evoke the complexity and allure of summer, blending traditional floral elegance with a modern twist.

As its name suggests, this fragrance celebrates the joys of summer and portends happiness of sunny days. When the temperature rises, it leaves the body give way to sun ...

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral tobacco fragrance for women.

• Top notes: honey, jasmine, mint, lemon, bergamot
• Middle notes: jasmine, rose, heliotrope, ylang ylang, clove, orchid, leather, hay
• Base notes: tobacco, orris, civet and vanilla

Scent Profile:

Quand Vient l'Été unfurls its olfactory narrative with a captivating blend of ingredients that transport you to a sunlit summer day, where each note paints a vivid picture of seasonal opulence and subtle sophistication.

As you first encounter this fragrance, the top notes greet you with a sumptuous, golden warmth. The honey exudes a rich, golden sweetness that feels like a warm embrace. It mingles with the heady allure of jasmine, whose lush, velvety petals evoke the richness of a blooming garden at the height of summer. 

The crisp, invigorating mint introduces a refreshing burst, reminiscent of a cool breeze on a sweltering day. Lemon and bergamot add a zesty brightness, their citrusy freshness dancing on your senses like sun-dappled rays cutting through the morning mist.

As the scent evolves, the heart reveals a more complex and sensual blend. Jasmine and rose intertwine, their combined floral opulence creating a bouquet that feels both classic and exotic. Heliotrope brings a soft, almond-like sweetness, adding a subtle touch of creaminess. Ylang ylang introduces a heady, tropical richness that feels almost intoxicating. 

Clove spices up the mix with its warm, aromatic kick, while orchid adds a touch of exotic elegance. The leather and hay notes ground the fragrance with an earthy, rustic charm, evoking the smell of sun-soaked fields and the comfort of a well-worn leather chair.

The base notes of Quand Vient l'Été provide a lingering, seductive finish. Tobacco wraps the scent in its rich, smoky embrace, adding a layer of depth and sophistication. Orris lends a powdery, soft elegance, its refined scent reminiscent of a vintage vanity. Civet contributes a musky, animalic warmth that adds a hint of daring allure, while vanilla smooths everything out with its creamy, sweet undertones, leaving a final impression that is both comforting and alluring.

In Quand Vient l'Été, the intricate interplay of these notes captures the essence of summer—its warmth, its opulence, and its subtle, unexpected pleasures.

Bottles:

Presented in the quadrilobe flacon (parfum) by Baccarat, Flacon Empire (parfum), Flacon Fleuri (parfum), and Pochet et du Courval and the Goutte flacon (eau de toilette). 

Flacon Bouchon Quadrilobe (Quatrefoil Stopper) c1908-1950s?

Flacon quadrilobe was made by five different glass manufacturers: Baccarat, Pochet et du Courval, St Gobain Desjonqueres, Cristalleries de Nancy, Cristal Romesnil, Verreries Brosse, and BSN-GD Flaconnage to hold extraits for various perfumes. Some later bottles hold eaux de toilette or eaux de parfum. Baccarat flacon #24. Created in 1908 for the fragrance Rue de la Paix and has been used since as the ‘house bottle’. The labels known as ‘etiquette laurier’ because of the laurel leaf borders, except for the perfume Coque D’Or, Dawamesk, Liu and Fleur de Feu which show a more 'modernist' design. It was most likely used for Quand Vient l'Ete then ceased as the fragrance was shortly discontinued some time in the late 1950s.

Since the bottle shape has been used for many decades, the various glassworks needed to modify their original moulds, including the bottle itself and the stopper. One should remember that with the change from ground glass stoppers to ones with the plastic plugs (plastemeri) - this automatically altered the overall capacity and size of the bottles. Atlas & Monniot in their book, mentioned that it would be "unreasonable" to list all the numerous changes that took place with these alterations. They state that "an original mould may have been modified up to five times for a bottle of the same capacity with only slight differences in the size."

Flacon Empire c1902-1959:

Flacon created by Pochet et du Courval to hold extraits of various perfumes such as Apres L'Ondee, Quand Vient L'Ete, and Sillage. Bottle, with gilded drapery, originally created to house the perfume Bon Vieux Temps. 

Flacon Mauresque:

Also presented in the Persane/Mauresque flacon, created by Pochet et du Courval in 1910. Based on a 17th century Persian or Moorish perfume flacon in the Guerlain family collection. This flacon was also used for other Guerlain perfumes. Specifically tailored for custom perfume. Guests can choose perfume bottle shape and color of flowers.

Flacon Fleuri (Flower) c1900-1962:

Created by Pochet et du Courval to hold extraits for Voila Pourquoi J’amais Rosine, Quand Vient L'Ete, also used for other scents like Muguet.

Flacon Goutte (Teardrop) c1923-1950s:

Bottle created by Pochet et du Courval to hold eaux de toilette only. Bottle also made by different manufacturers over the years. Created as the standard Eau de Toilette presentation. The frosted glass stopper is made of two cockle shells; the label depicts two dolphins known as ‘Etiquette Dauphin’.  This bottle held over 30 different perfumes including Quand Vient L'Ete.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Quand Vient l'Été by Guerlain, a floral tobacco fragrance introduced in 1910, holds a special place in the history of perfumery. Discontinued at an unspecified date, the perfume's last known sale was recorded in 1953. This extended availability suggests that the fragrance maintained its appeal and relevance well into the mid-20th century. Despite its eventual discontinuation, its legacy endures as a testament to Guerlain's innovative approach to scent, blending floral notes with an unexpected tobacco base.

1998 Reformulation & Reissue:

In 1998, Quand Vient l'Été by Guerlain experienced a revival, marking its return to the fragrance world with a fresh, modern twist. This limited edition release, carefully reformulated with contemporary ingredients, was confined to just 2,500 numbered examples, making each bottle a collectible piece of perfumery history. Unlike the original parfum concentration, the reissued version was offered as an eau de toilette, presenting a lighter, more accessible interpretation of the classic scent.

The fragrance was housed in the iconic Fleuri flacon, a design synonymous with Guerlain's elegance and sophistication. This particular bottle held 75 ml of the scent, and its presentation reflected the luxurious yet understated charm typical of Guerlain’s design ethos. Distinguishing these newer editions from their original counterparts is straightforward; the modern labels feature handwritten edition numbers on the front, a mark of their limited nature and the craftsmanship involved in their creation. Once the numbered examples were sold out, no more was produced.

1999 Reformulation & Reissue:

It was reformulated by Jean-Paul Guerlain and Mathilde Laurent and renamed Terracotta Voile d'Ete. This limited edition was contained in the flacon Montre. This was discontinued around 2001.

It is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women.

• Top notes: bergamot, pear and mint
• Middle notes: jasmine, lily, rose, carnation, heliotrope, ylang ylang
• Base notes: vanilla, iris

2002 Reformulation & Reissue:

Reformulated and relaunched in 2002 in a limited edition as No. 25, contained in the flacon Abeilles. This was discontinued by 2004.

It is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women.

• Top notes: bergamot, mint, citrus, rose
• Middle notes: ylang-ylang, heliotrope, jasmine, iris, white lily, carnation, pear
• Base notes: vanilla, tonka bean, orris and straw

2005 Reformulation & Reissue:

It was then reissued as its original name, Quand Vient l'Été, as an eau de parfum concentration in 2005. Presented in the flacon Abeilles as part of "Les Parisiennes" line, this version was slightly reformulated to intensify the ylang ylang and lily notes. Also discontinued.

2008 Reformulation & Reissue:

Quand Vient L'Ete was reissued under its original name as part of a special collection known as Les Quatre Saisons. It is classified as a floral fragrance for women. This too has been discontinued.

• Top notes: lemon, rose and mint
• Middle notes: ylang-ylang, lily and jasmine
• Base notes: carnation, iris and vanilla