Guerlain Perfumes: Vetiver by Guerlain c1839

Guerlain's Vetiver, first launched in 1839, was one of the early perfumes that embraced the natural, earthy qualities of the vetiver plant, offering a fragrance that could appeal to both men and women. The choice of the name Vetiver reflects the main ingredient of this scent—an aromatic grass native to India. The word "vetiver" comes from Tamil, an ancient South Indian language, in which "vetti ver" translates to "dug-up roots," highlighting the plant's strong, earthy characteristics. For Guerlain, naming the perfume after this key ingredient was a natural choice, as it conveyed both the raw, organic origin of the scent and the refined interpretation of nature that the house sought to achieve.

Vetiver evokes images of sun-baked fields, earthy roots, and an enduring connection to the natural world. The aroma of vetiver is often described as woody, smoky, and green, with deep, grounding undertones that bring to mind the scent of damp earth after rain or the warmth of weathered wood. In scent, Vetiver is interpreted as both fresh and earthy—a harmonious balance between nature’s vitality and the grounded calmness of the forest floor. The fragrance is invigorating yet soothing, making it a versatile choice for both men and women, and unusual for its time in that it did not adhere to strictly feminine or masculine boundaries.

Women of the early 19th century, a time when gender distinctions in fragrance were more rigid, would have found Vetiver a bold choice. This was an era marked by romantic ideals, with women typically gravitating towards sweet, floral, and powdery fragrances. A perfume called Vetiver, rooted in earthy, green, and woody notes, would have offered an exciting contrast. For women who sought individuality, sophistication, and a connection to nature, Vetiver provided a refreshing departure from the norm, signaling a sense of adventure and perhaps an understated confidence. The idea of wearing a scent with such natural, unadorned roots would have been seen as elegant yet daring, appealing to the progressive sensibilities of certain women of the time.

The 1839 launch of Vetiver occurred during a period of heightened appreciation for natural ingredients and botanical extracts in perfumery. Guerlain, already established as one of France’s premier fragrance houses, was at the forefront of this movement. The early 19th century was also a time of significant change across Europe, marked by the rise of Romanticism—a cultural shift that placed greater emphasis on nature, emotion, and individuality. This cultural context would have made Vetiver particularly resonant, as it captured both the raw beauty of the natural world and the growing desire for authenticity and personal expression. Women who wore Vetiver in this era may have seen it as more than just a fragrance, but as a symbol of their connection to these evolving cultural ideals.

It was still being sold into the late 1950s.

Fragrance Composition:

In 1959, Jean-Paul Guerlain undertook the reformulation of Vetiver, transforming the original unisex fragrance into a distinctly masculine cologne. This updated version was crafted to cater specifically to the South American market, where its earthy, woody notes were anticipated to resonate with local preferences. However, the success and appeal of the newly refined Vetiver quickly garnered broader interest. By 1961, it was introduced to the global market, including the United States, where it found favor among men seeking a sophisticated, distinctive scent.

Jean-Paul Guerlain’s reformulation maintained the essence of the original Vetiver, but with adjustments that enhanced its appeal as a classic masculine fragrance. The result was a cologne that embodied the rugged, earthy qualities of vetiver while offering a refined elegance that was both timeless and contemporary. Its introduction to the international market marked a significant expansion of Guerlain’s reach and showcased the brand's ability to adapt its offerings to diverse tastes and cultural contexts. The reissued Vetiver became a symbol of sophistication, blending the raw, natural allure of its original formulation with a polished, modern sensibility that resonated with a global audience.

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a masculine and elegant woodsy fragrance.

Top notes: lemon
Middle notes: tobacco, incense and vetiver
Base notes: nutmeg, vetiver, tobacco, oakmoss and pepper

I tested a vintage 1990s sample and it started off with bright lemon, then the vetiver became more prominent followed by a drydown of incense, and a smoky wood note.

Bottles:

Presented in the Carre flacon (parfum), the Amphore flacon (parfum), the Louis XVI bottle (eau de cologne), and the quadrilobe flacon (parfum).

It was available in spray form by 1962, in a plastic-coated glass bottle.