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Sunday, February 10, 2013

Voila Pourquoi J'Aimais Rosine by Guerlain c1900

Voilà Pourquoi J'Aimais Rosine by Guerlain was first created in 1863 and then re-released in a special presentation for the 1900 Universal Exhibition. The name, which translates to "This is Why I Loved Rosine," carries a deeply emotional and personal resonance, chosen to honor Sarah Bernhardt, the celebrated actress whose birth name was Henriette-Rosine Bernard. As a close friend of the Guerlain family and a muse to Jacques Guerlain, Bernhardt was a woman of extraordinary talent, charm, and allure—qualities that the perfume’s name and composition sought to capture.

The phrase "Voilà Pourquoi J'Aimais Rosine" evokes a sense of nostalgia, affection, and admiration. It tells the story of a great love or deep fondness, perhaps for a person, memory, or fleeting moment of beauty. The title invites the wearer to step into a narrative of romantic devotion, which could easily have mirrored Bernhardt’s dramatic life and the adoration she received from her audiences. The scent itself, then, becomes a tribute not only to her but to anyone who evokes a similar admiration, capturing the mystery and allure of the muse figure.

Interpreted in scent, "Voilà Pourquoi J'Aimais Rosine" would likely translate to a fragrance that is at once delicate and bold, capturing the dual nature of Bernhardt’s persona—soft in her beauty but powerful in her presence. Floral elements, jasmine, rose and violet, evoke the femininity and elegance of the era, while deeper, warmer notes like cinnamon, leather and vanilla lend a more sensuous, timeless quality. The fragrance would feel like an homage to artistry and the stage, with a complex blend of ingredients designed to linger and captivate, much like Bernhardt herself.

During the late 19th and early 20th centuries, a perfume like Voilà Pourquoi J'Aimais Rosine would have resonated with both men and women in different ways. For women, the fragrance could symbolize an aspiration toward the sophistication and charisma embodied by Bernhardt, a celebrated woman who pushed the boundaries of her time. For men, the perfume might have represented a sense of admiration for a woman of grace and strength, while also carrying a sense of personal refinement and luxury. The perfume’s name and association with Bernhardt would have made it a conversation piece, evoking the cultural allure of the theater and the arts.

The time period in which this perfume was launched, the mid-19th century, was a transformative era in France. The country was at the height of its artistic and cultural influence, with figures like Sarah Bernhardt rising to international fame. The era was defined by opulence, innovation, and an appreciation for the arts, as seen in the 1900 Universal Exhibition, where Voilà Pourquoi J'Aimais Rosine was presented in a newly designed bottle. Guerlain’s choice to re-release the perfume at such a significant global event reflected the brand’s deep connection to the artistic world and its role in shaping the cultural landscape of the time.

In an era where names like Bernhardt commanded admiration across Europe, the perfume would have served as a fragrant tribute to the ideals of creativity, beauty, and love. Its presentation at the 1900 Exhibition further elevated its status, making it not just a fragrance but a symbol of France’s cultural prominence and the spirit of the Belle Époque.




Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? It is classified as a powdery floral fragrance for women with a leathery chypre base.
  • Top notes: bergamot, lemon, lavender, leather
  • Middle notes: jasmine, rose, vanilla, cinnamon, marjoram, patchouli
  • Base notes: rose, oakmoss, orris


Scent Profile:


Voilà Pourquoi J'Aimais Rosine is a symphony of olfactory sensations, beginning with the bright, invigorating top notes that instantly captivate the senses. The fragrance opens with the crisp, zesty aroma of bergamot, its citrus notes sharp and refreshing, evoking the sunlit brilliance of a summer’s day. Complementing this is the tangy freshness of lemon, adding a lively, effervescent quality that dances on the skin. 

Lavender introduces a calming, herbaceous undertone, its soothing, floral-green essence providing a serene contrast to the citrus burst. A surprising yet sophisticated hint of leather weaves through the opening, its rich, warm aroma reminiscent of finely crafted leather goods, adding an unexpected depth and a touch of rugged elegance.

As the fragrance unfolds, the heart reveals a lush floral bouquet that is both delicate and intoxicating. Jasmine, with its opulent, creamy sweetness, envelops the senses in a sensual embrace, its heady scent reminiscent of a midnight garden in full bloom. Rose, the quintessential floral note, exudes a classic, romantic aroma, its soft, velvety petals adding a layer of timeless elegance. 

Vanilla lends a warm, comforting sweetness that smooths the transition from the vibrant top notes to the deeper, more complex base, infusing the fragrance with a cozy, gourmand richness. Cinnamon introduces a spicy, aromatic warmth, its hint of sweetness and subtle heat enhancing the overall complexity. Marjoram adds an herbal, slightly spicy nuance, its earthy undertones grounding the floral sweetness. Patchouli, with its rich, woody, and slightly earthy characteristics, deepens the fragrance’s profile, creating a beautifully balanced contrast with the floral heart.

The base notes of Voilà Pourquoi J'Aimais Rosine offer a refined conclusion to this intricate olfactory journey. Rose reappears here, its enduring fragrance subtly anchoring the composition with a persistent, elegant touch. Oakmoss imparts a classic chypre base, its earthy, mossy notes evoking the rich, verdant scent of an ancient forest floor. 

Finally, orris adds a soft, powdery finish, its velvety, floral-woody aroma providing a sophisticated and luxurious ending to the fragrance, reminiscent of fine, aged cosmetics and the refined elegance of bygone eras.

In sum, Voilà Pourquoi J'Aimais Rosine is a beautifully layered fragrance that weaves together the freshness of citrus, the elegance of florals, the warmth of spices, and the depth of chypre elements into a scent that is both evocative and timeless, a fitting tribute to its illustrious muse.


Bottles:

Presented in the Fleuri flacon (parfum). Flacon created in 1900 by Pochet et du Courval. The bottle represents a flower vase topped with faux begonias.




Photo from dgaudit.fr





Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown.

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