Guerlain Perfumes: Chypre by Guerlain c1844

Guerlain's decision to name their 1844 fragrance "Chypre" is rooted in the deep historical and cultural significance of the term. "Chypre," the French word for Cyprus, refers to the Mediterranean island long associated with aromatic materials and ancient perfumery traditions. Since antiquity, Cyprus was famed for its natural materials, including resins, florals, and herbs, used in perfumery and incense. By the 19th century, the term "Chypre" came to define a fragrance style that combined citrus, floral, and woody notes with a distinct mossy, earthy undertone. For Guerlain, selecting the name "Chypre" was a nod to this rich heritage and a way to evoke the exotic allure of the Mediterranean—a blend of sophistication, nature, and timelessness.

The word "Chypre" itself conjures images of sun-drenched landscapes, rolling hills filled with cypress trees, and the salty breeze of the Mediterranean Sea. It evokes an air of exotic mystery, transporting the wearer to distant lands and a bygone era of ancient beauty and sensuality. The name suggests a scent that is earthy, grounded, and yet filled with light and freshness—a juxtaposition of nature's richness and breezy elegance. Emotions of nostalgia, refinement, and an understated but powerful allure might be brought to the surface when thinking of "Chypre." In scent, the word would translate to a complex blend of bright citrus, softened by a heart of floral opulence, all wrapped in a base of oakmoss, amber, and woods—a harmony of freshness and depth.

During the 19th century, both men and women would have responded to a fragrance named "Chypre" with admiration and a sense of connection to ancient history. For men, it may have evoked strength and nature, rooted in the earthiness of moss and wood. For women, the floral and citrus elements would have spoken to grace and femininity, balanced with a deeper, more complex undertone. In an era of Romanticism, with an emphasis on nature, beauty, and personal expression, Chypre would have resonated as a sophisticated choice for those looking to evoke both mystery and elegance. The nobility and the growing middle class, seeking to associate themselves with luxury and refinement, would have gravitated towards such a name.

The 1840s, when Guerlain's Chypre was introduced, were marked by a fascination with faraway places and a revival of interest in classical civilizations. The Industrial Revolution was transforming society, and people yearned for symbols of timelessness and stability. Perfume, especially one with such a historical and exotic name, offered an escape to the romanticized Mediterranean world. For a house like Guerlain, creating a fragrance named "Chypre" during this time allowed them to tap into the desires of a society both looking forward to modernity and yearning for the elegance of the past.

The "Chypre" fragrance structure became a defining category in perfumery, composed of a blend of citrus, floral, woody, and mossy elements. Typically, Chypre fragrances would open with a burst of zesty citrus notes, such as bergamot, which would then give way to floral heart notes like jasmine or rose, all underpinned by a rich base of oakmoss, labdanum, patchouli, and sometimes animalic elements like musk or ambergris. This blend offered both freshness and depth, making it a versatile choice for both men and women.

As the 19th century progressed, recipes for Chypre fragrances appeared in various publications aimed at druggists and perfumers, and the formula became widely known and replicated. Many of these recipes shared a core structure but might have been altered slightly depending on the availability of materials or the preferences of the perfumer. Natural ingredients such as absolutes, tinctures, and essential oils were initially the main components, but as the century came to a close and the science of synthetic aroma chemicals advanced, some of these natural materials were replaced or enhanced by synthetics. This shift allowed for greater consistency and longevity in fragrances, marking the beginning of a new era in perfumery.

In 1853, Guerlain expanded on its original Chypre fragrance with two more concentrated variations: Double Extrait de Chypre and Triple Extrait de Chypre. These releases offered a more intensified version of the already complex and rich scent, heightening its opulent character and making it more appealing to those seeking a deeper, more luxurious fragrance experience.

Double Extrait de Chypre would have amplified the earthy and floral qualities of the original composition. The bergamot's citrus sharpness, combined with the green herbaceous notes of calamus and angelica, would have been brighter, cutting through the air with greater clarity. The floral heart—dominated by jasmine, rose, and tuberose—would have bloomed more intensely, with each petal revealing its fullest expression. The spicy warmth of nutmeg and the powdery earthiness of orris would have wrapped around the florals with greater depth, drawing the wearer into a more intimate connection with the scent. The base, filled with musk, ambergris, labdanum, and oakmoss, would have felt richer, denser, and longer-lasting on the skin, with sandalwood, patchouli, and vanilla enhancing the fragrance's smooth, creamy warmth. The animalic intensity from civet and castoreum would have been more pronounced, lending an air of sensuality and boldness.

With Triple Extrait de Chypre, Guerlain would have reached the pinnacle of concentration, taking the scent to its most luxurious and long-lasting form. Every element would have been more intense, enveloping the wearer in a cloud of scent that felt more opulent and commanding. The citrus opening would have been sharper and more vibrant, cutting through the air with unwavering brightness. The floral heart—already a rich bouquet in the original—would have felt deeper and more seductive, with jasmine and tuberose taking on a more heady, almost narcotic quality. The dry down, featuring oakmoss, musk, and ambergris, would have become richer, more enveloping, and longer-lasting, creating an enduring scent that lingered long after it was applied. The animalic notes of civet and castoreum would have added a sensual boldness, pushing the fragrance to its most exotic and daring.

The decision to offer these intensified versions of Chypre reflects Guerlain's desire to cater to different tastes and needs. For those who desired a fragrance with greater staying power and a bolder presence, Double Extrait de Chypre and Triple Extrait de Chypre provided an unmatched richness and depth, offering an even more immersive experience of this quintessential chypre scent. These variations were ideal for the fashionable men and women of the time who sought to make a lasting impression with a fragrance that spoke of refinement, luxury, and sensuality.

Evening Star, 1913:

"Mere names of perfumes give no idea," said Zinda Brozia. "You must smell them. As many makers, so there are as many "chypres'. There is no such perfume, though Walter Scott mentions it, and Houbigant had a 'cypris" in 1775. Guerlain has a 'Cyprisine' and a 'Chypre de Paris'. The original 'Chypre' was a very successful mixture of Atkinson, years ago; and as he did not protect the name, everybody took it up. Now Guerlain's 'Chypre de Paris', although of the cheap $1.20 series, is a sum total of perfume value, distinction and lasting qualities. I imagine it would be impossible to repeat, hein?"

Guerlain’s journey with the chypre fragrance family began in 1844 with the launch of Chypre, a bold and elegant interpretation of the Mediterranean-inspired scent. This fragrance was rooted in the classic chypre formula, combining the freshness of citrus with the depth of woods, mosses, and resins. With this early release, Guerlain set the tone for what would become a longstanding relationship with the chypre style, a fragrance category known for its balance of earthy richness and uplifting top notes. Eau de Chypre, launched in 1850, likely took a more refreshing, lighter approach to the chypre theme, with perhaps a stronger emphasis on citrus and herbal notes, perfect for those seeking a more subtle fragrance during that period.

By 1894, Cyprisine emerged, building on the reputation of the chypre style but adding a more contemporary twist for the time. As Guerlain refined its artistry, Cyprisine may have included floral nuances that were becoming more fashionable toward the end of the 19th century, catering to the evolving tastes of modern women and men. Then in 1909, Guerlain introduced Chypre de Paris, a fragrance that likely represented the refinement of the French capital, capturing both the sophistication and opulence of Parisian society at the time. This particular release would have solidified Guerlain’s commitment to the chypre family and its adaptability through changing times and trends.

However, it was Mitsouko, launched in 1919, that became the pinnacle of Guerlain's chypre creations and the fragrance that has withstood the test of time. Mitsouko is often regarded as the "mother" of all Guerlain chypres, thanks to its masterful composition and enduring appeal. Unlike its predecessors, Mitsouko introduced a deeper, more complex interpretation of the chypre genre by blending the traditional bergamot and oakmoss foundation with peach and spice notes, resulting in a mysterious, enigmatic scent. The combination of fruity softness and earthy warmth made it stand out from other chypres of its time, and its lasting power through the decades speaks to its timeless quality.

While all the other Guerlain chypres—Chypre, Eau de Chypre, Cyprisine, and Chypre de Paris—were innovative in their own right, none achieved the iconic status of Mitsouko. Guerlain’s earlier attempts faded into the background as the century progressed, but Mitsouko, with its blend of classicism and modernity, became a symbol of the perfect chypre. Its longevity in the market proves that some fragrances transcend their time, becoming eternal through their unique ability to evoke emotion, intrigue, and beauty across generations. Mitsouko remains a testament to Guerlain’s mastery in balancing tradition with innovation, marking it as a lasting icon in the house’s legacy.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was a basic chypre fragrance for men and women.

Top notes: bergamot, calamus, cassie, angelica, orange, hyacinth
Middle notes: jasmine, rose, tuberose, orris, nutmeg, geranium
Base notes: musk, ambergris, labdanum, oakmoss, tonka bean, sandalwood, patchouli, vanilla, civet, castoreum

Scent Profile:

As I begin to experience Chypre by Guerlain, the first impression is a burst of vibrant freshness from the top notes. Bergamot introduces a crisp, citrusy zest that is both invigorating and refined. It feels like a radiant morning sun, clean and bright, with an undercurrent of green bitterness. The calamus adds a soft, aromatic quality, slightly spicy yet earthy, grounding the sharpness of the citrus with a hint of warmth.

Cassie, with its mimosa-like sweetness, weaves in a powdery floral facet, while the herbaceous touch of angelica brings a soft, peppery bite. The orange adds a sweet and juicy brightness, balancing the sharper citrus of bergamot. Finally, the floral complexity of hyacinth reveals itself, a heady, green floral note, with a slight aquatic depth, reminiscent of spring gardens after the rain.

As the fragrance settles into the heart, a bouquet of florals unfolds. Jasmine, rich and sensual, envelops the senses with its exotic, creamy aroma, adding a touch of indolic warmth. Rose enters next, velvety and soft, with a deep, romantic essence that adds elegance to the composition.

The tuberose, bold and opulent, brings a lush, narcotic sweetness, its intoxicating floral depth almost overwhelming but softened by the cool, earthy powder of orris, which provides a grounding contrast. Nutmeg adds a warm, spicy complexity that weaves between the florals, creating a harmonious balance between sweetness and spice. The geranium, fresh and slightly minty, cuts through the heavier florals, providing a crisp, herbal freshness that lightens the heart of the fragrance.

As the base notes emerge, the scent deepens into an earthy, sensual warmth. The musk brings an animalic, skin-like quality, intimate and slightly provocative, while ambergris lends a salty, marine sweetness, like the warm sun on sea-drenched skin. The rich, resinous scent of labdanum adds a sticky, balsamic warmth, while oakmoss, with its earthy, damp forest aroma, gives the fragrance its quintessential chypre character—dry, mossy, and slightly leathery.

Tonka bean adds a sweet, nutty vanilla nuance, softening the composition with its creamy richness. The creamy, woody smoothness of sandalwood melds seamlessly with the earthy, aromatic depth of patchouli, adding an exotic, spicy warmth. Vanilla, soft and sweet, wraps around the deeper notes like a comforting embrace, while the animalic intensity of civet and castoreum adds a raw, primal edge to the dry down, lending the fragrance a deeply seductive, almost feral character.

In this journey, Chypre reveals its multifaceted nature, from the bright, fresh top to the floral heart and the deeply sensual, earthy base. It is a fragrance that captures both the wildness of nature and the refined elegance of classical perfumery, embodying the very essence of a true chypre.