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Monday, February 17, 2014

Double Extrait d'Acacia by Guerlain c1869

Double Extrait d'Acacia by Guerlain: launched in 1869.




Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It perfume based on cassie or mimosa. Formulas of the period included the following in the composition:
  • Top notes: French acacia, eucalyptus, bergamot
  • Middle notes: orris,  lavender, jasmine absolute
  • Base notes: ambergris tincture, musk tincture, anise


Bottles:

This is a super rare perfume this is the first time I have seen this particular perfume from Guerlain, though the bottle design known as the Flacon Carre, dates from 1879 onwards and was made by Pochet et du Courval, this bottle actually dates to after 1914 based on the label bearing the 68, Champs-Elysees Paris for the Guerlain boutique, prior to this move, older labels are marked with 15, Rue de la Paix.







 
Cassell's Household Guide of 1869 explains it thus:



Chamber's Journal from 1903 explains it thus:




Any time you see a perfume that is labeled "Double" or "Triple" it means that it is either "double strength" or "triple strength." See below how the process is done, from Fenner's Complete Formulary, 1888.






A recipe to make this perfume was found in the 1877 book Perfumery and Kindred Arts: A Comprehensive Treatise on Perfumery by Richard S. Cristiani.




Extrait d'Acacia (Cassie)

  • 2 pints extract of cassie, No 1
  • 3/4 pints extract of jasmine No 1
  • 1/2  pints extract of tuberose No 1
  • 2 ounces tincture of ambergris 
  • 8 ounces orange flower water (double strength)

Cassie is not a favorite perfume by itself but combined as above is much liked. 

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