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Thursday, October 2, 2014

Bouquet de L'Imperatrice Eugenie by Guerlain c1843

Bouquet de L'Impératrice Eugénie by Guerlain, launched in 1853, was named in honor of Empress Eugénie, wife of Napoleon III. The choice of name reflects both admiration and an association with imperial elegance, power, and prestige. By attaching the Empress's name to the fragrance, Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain aligned his creation with royalty, conveying the notion of a scent fit for nobility. In naming the perfume "Bouquet de L'Impératrice Eugénie", Guerlain was not only appealing to the fascination with the imperial court but also emphasizing the refined femininity and grace of Eugénie herself. This was a rebranding of an earlier perfume, Bouquet de L'Imperatrice from around 1844.

The phrase "Bouquet de L'Impératrice Eugénie" conjures images of lush floral arrangements befitting an empress’s royal presence—delicate yet opulent. The word "bouquet" evokes a gathering of the finest, most exquisite flowers, arranged with care and elegance. When paired with the name "L'Impératrice Eugénie," the perfume’s title suggests regal luxury, sophistication, and timeless beauty. This blend of words might stir emotions of admiration, awe, and reverence for the French court and its luxurious lifestyle. The fragrance, by its very name, promises to embody the grandeur of the Second Empire and the refinement of the Empress herself.

Interpreted in scent, "Bouquet de L'Impératrice Eugénie" would likely represent a harmonious blend of soft, elegant florals—perhaps rich with roses, jasmine, or orange blossom—interwoven with warmer, sensual animalic or amber notes. The fragrance would be designed to project both delicacy and strength, reflecting the Empress's grace and commanding presence. It would feel comforting yet stately, delicate but enduring, much like Eugénie’s public image. For both men and women of the era, a fragrance with such a prestigious name would not only be aspirational but also a way of connecting to the glamorous world of the imperial court.

The time period in which this perfume was launched, the mid-19th century, was marked by an immense interest in the French aristocracy, luxury, and the lavish lifestyle of the imperial family. Napoleon III and Eugénie reigned over the Second Empire, and their court was known for its extravagance, opulent fashion, and keen patronage of the arts. Perfume, already a mark of distinction, became an even greater symbol of refinement, and perfumers like Guerlain sought to capture this luxurious world in a bottle. During this era, royal-inspired scents were in demand, as the public looked to these fragrances as a means of embodying nobility’s elegance and securing their own place within a higher social echelon.



Moreover, perfumes tied to royal figures were not just products; they were symbols of prestige. Court perfumes—fragrances created to commemorate royal events or reflect the aura of prominent figures—were highly sought after. Perfume houses competed to secure royal endorsements or to be named the official perfumer of the imperial court, and creating a fragrance for Empress Eugénie was both a tribute and a strategic move. Other perfumes of the time followed a similar trend with names such as Victoria Bouquet, Adelaide Bouquet, and Prince of Wales's Bouquet, all aiming to capture the essence of royalty.

The Bouquet de L'Impératrice Eugénie, like many fragrances of the period, was crafted using a blend of natural ingredients such as floral absolutes, animalic notes, and tinctures. While natural extracts were essential in the early years, the close of the century saw an increasing use of synthetics in perfumery, allowing for more intricate and long-lasting compositions. This marked the beginning of a new era in fragrance, where the romanticism of imperial connections could be captured and preserved more effectively in scent form.

Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like?  It was classified as a floral fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: geranium, neroli, bergamot, bitter almonds
  • Middle notes: rose, jasmine, orange blossom, cinnamon, orris
  • Base notes: ambergris, musk, sandalwood, tonka bean, vanilla, Peru balsam 


Scent Profile:


As I inhale the top notes of Bouquet de L'Impératrice Eugénie, the first impression is a refreshing burst of citrusy brightness. The bergamot immediately takes hold, its tart yet sweet essence bringing a lively sparkle to the composition. It mingles gracefully with the floral sharpness of geranium, whose slightly green, rosy profile adds complexity and depth. 

Then, the richness of neroli unfolds—a soft, honeyed orange blossom, delicate yet radiant. The unexpected addition of bitter almonds introduces a creamy, subtly nutty aroma that contrasts with the freshness of the citrus and floral accords, grounding the top notes with a touch of warmth.

As the perfume settles into its heart, the rose emerges, blooming with a deep, velvety richness. This rose is lush and dewy, capturing both the freshness of its petals and the sensuality of its scent. It intertwines with the intoxicating sweetness of jasmine, whose heady floral essence brings a touch of exoticism.

The orange blossom carries a delicate, citrusy brightness, lifting the heart of the fragrance with its floral freshness. Then, a soft whisper of cinnamon makes its presence known—warm, sweet, and spicy, it wraps the florals in a gentle heat that adds both comfort and intrigue. Beneath this bouquet, the earthy, powdery elegance of orris root lends a subtle, violet-like softness, balancing the florals with a graceful, refined smoothness.

As the base notes begin to emerge, the warmth of ambergris envelops the senses, its salty, oceanic musk adding a mysterious depth to the fragrance. Musk enhances the sensuality, wrapping the composition in a velvety, animalic richness that feels both intimate and powerful. The creamy, woody depth of sandalwood adds a soft, grounding touch, its subtle smokiness blending with the balsamic sweetness of Peru balsam. 

Together, they create a deep, resinous foundation that enhances the complexity of the scent. The finishing notes of tonka bean and vanilla introduce a final layer of sweetness, with tonka’s warm, almond-like richness and vanilla’s creamy, comforting softness. This lingering warmth is sweet without being overpowering, leaving a sensual, enduring trail that perfectly encapsulates the elegance of an empress.

Altogether, Bouquet de L'Impératrice Eugénie is a beautifully orchestrated fragrance that captures both the timeless sophistication and radiant warmth of its namesake, blending florals, spice, and warmth in a manner that evokes images of imperial grandeur, refined beauty, and quiet strength.

 

Bottles:


It was available in the carre flacon.

Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown. It was still being sold in 1903.

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