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Tuesday, February 3, 2015

Bouquet de Jenny Lind by Guerlain c1848

Bouquet de Jenny Lind by Guerlain, introduced in 1848, was a tribute to the renowned Swedish opera singer Jenny Lind, affectionately known as the "Swedish Nightingale." Jenny Lind gained international acclaim for her exceptional vocal talent and captivating stage presence, earning her a place in the annals of musical history. Her fame and reputation made her a fitting muse for a perfume, as her name symbolized grace, beauty, and a soaring artistry that resonated across Europe.

The name "Bouquet de Jenny Lind" translates from French to "Bouquet of Jenny Lind." This title evokes a sense of elegance and refinement, conjuring images of a lavish floral arrangement dedicated to the celebrated singer. The term "bouquet" implies a carefully curated selection of flowers, reflecting the artistry and craftsmanship involved in creating a perfume that embodies the sophistication and charm of its namesake. The addition of "Jenny Lind" personalizes the fragrance, linking it to a figure synonymous with grace and vocal excellence.

In scent, "Bouquet de Jenny Lind" would likely be interpreted as a complex and harmonious floral composition. The fragrance may aim to capture the delicate yet powerful essence of Lind's performances, offering a bouquet that is both rich and nuanced. Women of the time would have associated the perfume with the same qualities that made Jenny Lind famous—elegance, refinement, and a touch of dramatic allure. The name would evoke a sense of high society and cultural sophistication, aligning the wearer with the grandeur and distinction of the opera singer herself.

The mid-19th century was a period of rich experimentation and refinement in perfumery. When "Bouquet de Jenny Lind" was launched, the fragrance industry was becoming more sophisticated, with an increasing emphasis on creating unique and memorable compositions. Guerlain's choice to name the perfume after Jenny Lind was a nod to the growing trend of honoring prominent cultural figures through fragrance, a trend exemplified by Eugène Rimmel's own dedication to the singer just a year earlier. While Guerlain's offering was part of a broader movement of personalized and high-quality perfumes, its connection to a celebrated figure of the time added an extra layer of prestige and appeal, setting it apart from other offerings on the market.

Perfumes named after Jenny Lind enjoyed notable popularity during the 19th century, a testament to her enduring influence and the fascination with celebrated cultural figures. The formulas for these fragrances, including Guerlain's own "Bouquet de Jenny Lind," were documented in several perfumery manuals and pharmacopeias of the period. These formulations typically featured complex blends designed to evoke the same elegance and charm associated with Lind herself.

Initially, the compositions relied heavily on natural extracts, infusions, absolutes, and tinctures to create their olfactory profiles. As the century progressed, the advent of synthetic ingredients and novel aroma compounds began to influence fragrance development, allowing for more consistent and long-lasting scent experiences. The introduction of these synthetics marked a significant shift in perfumery, enhancing the ability to capture and sustain delicate scents.

The general recipe for these Jenny Lind-inspired perfumes often began with a base similar to the esteemed "Jockey Club" fragrance. This base was then enriched with vetiver and vanilla, contributing to a deeper, more complex scent. Vetiver, with its earthy and woody notes, added a sophisticated foundation, while vanilla introduced a sweet, creamy element that complemented the fragrance's overall bouquet. The result was a refined and multi-faceted perfume that sought to capture the essence of Jenny Lind’s celebrated grace and artistry.


Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like?  It was a floral fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: bergamot, neroli, cassie, lavender, rose geranium, coriander
  • Middle notes: jasmine, musk, tuberose, violet, rose, orange blossom, heliotrope, cinnamon
  • Base notes: vetiver, musk, ambergris, orris, civet, mace, clove, vanilla, Peru balsam, storax, tonka bean

Scent Profile:


Bouquet de Jenny Lind unfurls with a vibrant array of scents, beginning with its top notes that immediately captivate the senses. The zesty burst of bergamot introduces a sparkling, citrusy freshness that dances on the nose, while neroli adds a honeyed, floral sweetness, evoking the delicate orange blossoms of a sunlit grove. 

Cassie, with its subtly spicy and floral aroma, blends seamlessly with the aromatic herbal notes of lavender, which imparts a calming, herbaceous essence. Rose geranium adds a touch of rosy, green complexity, and coriander infuses a hint of warm, spicy undertones that ground the fragrance with a sophisticated edge.

As the fragrance evolves, the heart reveals a lush, blooming bouquet. The scent of jasmine emerges in full, offering a rich, heady floral aroma that swells with an intoxicating sweetness. Musk lends a sensual, earthy depth that enhances the floral notes, while tuberose introduces a creamy, opulent richness. 

Violet contributes a delicate, powdery nuance, blending gracefully with the classic aroma of rose. The fragrance is further enriched by the sweet, sunny brightness of orange blossom, and the soft, almond-like hint of heliotrope. A subtle spiciness from cinnamon adds an intriguing warmth that rounds out the middle notes.

In the base, the fragrance settles into a complex and enduring finish. The earthy, woody character of vetiver provides a solid foundation, balanced by the deep, animalic warmth of musk. Ambergris contributes a subtle, marine-like richness, while orris adds a creamy, powdery softness. The distinctive aroma of civet brings a musky, slightly wild edge, and mace and clove introduce spicy, resinous notes.

Vanilla envelops the scent in a sweet, comforting warmth, complemented by the balsamic richness of Peru balsam and storax. Finally, the smooth, nutty scent of tonka bean ties it all together, creating a fragrance that is both enchanting and enduring, echoing the elegance and sophistication of its namesake.


Bottle:


It was housed in the Carre flacon.







Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown.

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