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Thursday, March 12, 2015

Marechale by Guerlain c1833

Maréchale by Guerlain, launched in 1833, is a perfume that carries a name steeped in historical and cultural significance. The word "Maréchale" is French for "Marshal," a high-ranking military officer. The choice of this name evokes images of authority, honor, and sophistication, reflecting a sense of grandeur and distinction. In the context of fragrance, "Maréchale" suggests a scent that is both commanding and refined, embodying the elegance and prestige associated with military rank.

The name "Maréchale" conjures up visions of regal military uniforms, elaborate ceremonies, and a world of formality and decorum. It resonates with the romanticized image of a distinguished officer whose presence is marked by an air of sophistication and strength. For women of the period, a perfume named "Maréchale" would have been associated with these qualities, suggesting a fragrance that was both potent and sophisticated, perhaps reflecting the valor and refinement of a Marshal.

In the early 19th century, when "Maréchale" was launched, the perfume industry was in a state of transition. The period was marked by an increasing interest in complex and sophisticated scents, moving beyond the simpler, single-note fragrances of earlier decades. Guerlain's creation of "Maréchale" would have aligned with this trend, offering a fragrance that was both unique and reflective of the era's evolving tastes.

The origins of "Maréchal" trace back to 1669, when it was originally created as a sachet powder for Madame La Maréchal d'Aumont, wife of Antoine, Marshal of France. This powder was designed to complement her hair color and was used to powder her coiffure. Its composition included powdered elecampane root and vetiver, which were also featured in other fragrances of the time, such as Guerlain’s own Bouquet du Roi. The original formulation, known as Poudre à la Maréchal, combined rose, elecampane, vetiver, iris, cloves, violet, orange, lavender, and marjoram, creating a scent that was as layered and complex as the Marshal’s own esteemed position.

By launching "Maréchale" in 1833, Guerlain not only paid homage to this historical fragrance but also tapped into the era's growing appreciation for nuanced and elaborate scents. The fragrance likely embodied the rich and varied notes of its predecessor, delivering a perfume that was both sophisticated and evocative of the distinguished character implied by its name.


Fragrance Composition:


Several mid 19th century recipes for Maréchal perfume included the following, which may have been similar to Guerlain's:
  • Top notes: neroli, acacia, sassafras, bergamot, anise
  • Middle notes: clove, orris, Bulgarian rose, orange blossom, cinnamon, jasmine
  • Base notes: sandalwood, musk, ambergris, tonka bean, vanilla, vetiver, balsam of Peru

Crown Perfumery in England made a version and is a classical chypre floral fragrance with notes of bergamot, cardamom, lavender, rose, leather and oakmoss. 


Scent Profile:


Maréchale is a fragrance that reveals its character through a complex interplay of ingredients, each contributing to a rich and evocative olfactory experience.

As you first encounter Maréchal, the top notes unfold with a burst of freshness. The neroli imparts a bright, citrusy aroma with a hint of honeyed sweetness, while the acacia adds a soft, floral nuance reminiscent of blooming golden wattle under the sun. 

Sassafras introduces a subtle, rooty spiciness, its warm, earthy quality mingling with the crisp, zesty scent of bergamot. Anise brings a unique licorice-like sweetness, its aromatic depth enhancing the initial brightness with a touch of exotic intrigue.

The heart of Maréchal is a captivating blend of rich, spicy, and floral elements. Clove delivers a warm, spicy kick, its pungent, slightly sweet aroma enveloping you in a comforting embrace. Orris root, with its velvety, powdery texture, adds an elegant, creamy undertone, harmonizing beautifully with the luxurious Bulgarian rose. 

This rose imparts a deep, velvety floral note, its opulent richness perfectly complemented by the delicate, almost ethereal scent of orange blossom. Cinnamon adds a hint of warmth and spice, mingling with the sensual, heady fragrance of jasmine, which fills the heart with its intoxicating floral sweetness.

As the fragrance settles into its base, the scent deepens and evolves. Sandalwood provides a creamy, smooth foundation with its warm, woody aroma, offering a grounding, comforting base. Musk lends a sensual, animalistic undertone, enhancing the fragrance’s complexity with its subtle warmth. Ambergris introduces a touch of marine mystery, its deep, resinous scent providing a luxurious, slightly sweet finish.

Tonka bean adds a rich, caramel-like sweetness, blending seamlessly with vanilla’s creamy, comforting notes. Vetiver contributes a smoky, earthy quality, grounding the fragrance with its woody depth, while balsam of Peru adds a resinous, slightly spicy warmth that lingers seductively on the skin.

In sum, Maréchale is a multi-faceted fragrance where each ingredient plays a distinct role, creating a harmonious and sophisticated olfactory experience that evokes a sense of classic elegance and timeless sophistication.



Bottle:


Presented in the carre flacon.


 

Fate of the Fragrance:


Maréchale, a fragrance with a storied history, was discontinued at an unspecified date after having been available for many decades. It was still being offered to the public as late as 1888, a testament to its enduring popularity during the late 19th century. Despite its eventual discontinuation, Maréchale left an indelible mark on the world of perfumery, reflecting both the opulence and the evolving tastes of its time. Its legacy endures in the annals of fragrance history, remembered for its unique blend of ingredients and its place within the rich tapestry of Guerlain’s offerings.

In 1876, Marechale Duchesse was added to the lineup, this too was still being sold in 1888.

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