Unter den Linden c1850s

Unter den Linden by Guerlain, introduced in the 1850s, carries a name steeped in evocative imagery and historical significance. The name Unter den Linden translates from German to "Under the Linden Trees," referencing a famous boulevard in Berlin’s Mitte district. This tree-lined avenue, known for its serene, grassy mall and the grand linden trees that shade its pathways, evokes a sense of elegant tranquility and refined urban beauty.

The choice of this name for Guerlain’s fragrance suggests a deliberate effort to capture the essence of this iconic location. The imagery conjured by Unter den Linden is one of leisurely strolls beneath the dappled light of lush linden trees, a setting that blends natural splendor with sophisticated city life. In scent, Unter den Linden would likely be interpreted as an attempt to encapsulate the delicate, fresh aroma of linden blossoms. Linden flowers are known for their soft, sweet fragrance with subtle honeyed undertones, which would have appealed to those seeking a refined and soothing floral experience.

Women of the 19th century encountering Unter den Linden would have been drawn to its elegant and evocative name, associating it with the cultured and leisurely pursuits of high society. The fragrance would resonate with a sense of sophistication and grace, reflecting the period’s growing appreciation for nuanced and complex scents.

During the 1850s, the fragrance market was evolving rapidly, with increasing experimentation in scent formulation. Unter den Linden fits within this context as part of a broader trend of creating floral compositions that highlighted both natural and newly synthesized elements. Early formulas for Unter den Linden would have utilized natural extracts, infusions, and tinctures to achieve the fresh, floral aroma of linden blossoms. As the century progressed, the introduction of synthetic compounds such as coumarin and heliotropin began to influence perfume creation, enabling more consistent and enduring representations of delicate floral notes.

In summary, Unter den Linden was more than just a fragrance; it was a sensory homage to a beloved Berlin boulevard, designed to evoke the timeless beauty and sophistication associated with its namesake.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was a fresh floral fragrance for men and women.

• Top notes: cassie, linden flower
• Middle notes: rose, jasmine, tuberose, geranium
• Base notes: castoreum, tonka bean, patchouli, musk, guaiac

Scent Profile:

Unter den Linden, a fresh floral fragrance introduced by Guerlain, invites you into a garden of sophisticated blooms, where each note unfolds with grace and complexity. As you experience this fragrance, the top notes present a vibrant and uplifting introduction. 

The cassie note opens with a subtle sweetness, reminiscent of delicate yellow flowers with a light, honeyed aroma that is both inviting and invigorating. This is immediately followed by the linden flower, which contributes a lush, green freshness—its scent evokes the serene ambiance of a sunlit afternoon beneath the broad canopy of linden trees, where the air is perfumed with a soft, floral sweetness.

Transitioning into the heart of the fragrance, the middle notes weave a rich tapestry of classic floral essences. Rose provides a timeless, romantic quality with its deep, velvety petals, exuding a scent that is both opulent and comforting. Jasmine adds a layer of exotic sensuality, with its intoxicating, heady aroma that swirls with a hint of sweetness and warmth. 

Tuberose contributes a creamy, rich floral scent with an almost narcotic intensity, enveloping you in its luxurious and seductive embrace. The geranium note introduces a fresh, slightly green edge, offering a touch of herbal crispness that balances the deeper floral notes with a refreshing contrast.

As the fragrance settles, the base notes reveal a complex and intriguing foundation. Castoreum imparts a warm, animalic richness, with a leathery undertone that adds depth and sophistication. Tonka bean introduces a soft, vanilla-like sweetness with subtle hints of almond, enhancing the fragrance with a smooth, comforting warmth. 

Patchouli provides an earthy, woody aroma with a touch of spice, grounding the scent with its rich, robust character. Musk adds a sensual, animalistic edge, imparting a lasting and memorable sillage. Finally, guaiac wood brings a subtle, smoky depth, contributing a nuanced complexity that lingers delicately in the background.

Together, these ingredients create a harmonious blend that captures the essence of a refined and timeless floral bouquet, reflecting the elegance and sophistication of the 19th-century fragrance landscape.

 

Bottles:

Housed in the carre flacon.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.