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Saturday, June 27, 2015

Guerlilas by Guerlain c1930

Guerlilas, launched by Guerlain in 1930 and created by Jean-Jacques Guerlain, carries a name that elegantly blends the company's signature with a botanical reference. The name "Guerlilas" is a portmanteau of "Guerlain" and "lilas," the French word for lilac. Pronounced "Gwer-lee-lah," the name evokes an image of both the esteemed Guerlain house and the delicate, enchanting lilac flower.

The word "Guerlilas" conjures images of a lush garden in full bloom, where the air is perfumed with the sweet, powdery aroma of lilacs. The name suggests a fragrance that harmoniously integrates Guerlain’s refined artistry with the soft, floral beauty of lilacs. Lilacs are known for their delicate, yet intoxicating scent, often evoking feelings of romance and nostalgia. This sense of refined elegance and gentle charm would have appealed greatly to women of the time, offering a scent that was both sophisticated and evocative.

Guerlilas is classified as a floral fragrance for women, with its predominant lilac notes layered over the signature Guerlinade accord. The fragrance opens with a fresh and floral burst of lilac, an ingredient known for its light and airy aroma that immediately transports the wearer to a serene garden. The lilac notes are complemented by the Guerlinade accord, which provides a rich, warm foundation that enhances the delicate floral scent with a touch of sensuality and depth. This combination creates a perfume that is both uplifting and comforting, with the lilac notes capturing the essence of spring and renewal.

During the early 20th century, lilacs were cherished in perfumery for their enchanting and subtle fragrance, often used to evoke a sense of floral purity and elegance. Guerlain would have sourced lilacs from various regions known for their cultivation, such as France, where the flower was prized for its high-quality blooms. The inclusion of lilac in Guerlilas not only reflects the era's preference for light and airy floral scents but also highlights Guerlain’s commitment to capturing nature's beauty in their creations.

In the context of the 1930s, a decade marked by both artistic innovation and a longing for elegance amidst the backdrop of global economic challenges, Guerlilas would have provided women with a touch of sophistication and floral grace. The perfume's delicate lilac notes would have resonated with the desire for refinement and beauty, offering a fragrant escape into a world of floral splendor and timeless elegance.




Fragrance Composition:


What does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women featuring beautiful lilac notes over the Guerlinade accord.
  • Top notes: lilac, aldehydes, bergamot
  • Middle notes: lilac, jasmine, heliotrope, lily of the valley, violet and Tonkin musk
  • Base notes: civet, jasmine and musk

Scribner's Magazine, 1930:
"Guerlilas (lilac) and Guerlarose (rose), make most timely gifts. For what more in keeping with the present style than the discreet elegance of perfumes distilled from the flower itself? The purity of the scent remains absolutely unchanged."


Combat, 1955:

"Lilac - its green scent reeks of love and the suburbs. Guerlain has fixed it's springtime message in 'Guerlilas' but, more often, it is asked to mask its ingenuity with perfidious extracts."


Scent Profile:

As you approach the fragrance Guerlilas, your senses are immediately greeted by a burst of lilac. The top notes open with an airy and soft lilac blossom, its delicate petals exuding a sweet, powdery fragrance that feels like a gentle caress on a spring morning. The lilac’s ethereal quality is further enhanced by the presence of aldehydes, which introduce a crisp, clean facet, brightening the floral scent with a shimmering clarity. Bergamot adds a zesty twist, its citrusy aroma providing a fresh, uplifting counterpoint that invigorates the senses and adds a hint of effervescence.

As the fragrance evolves, the heart reveals its deeper complexity. The lilac continues to flourish, now accompanied by the lush, creamy richness of jasmine. The jasmine's opulent, slightly indolic sweetness intertwines with the lilac, creating a harmonious and intoxicating floral bouquet. Heliotrope contributes a soft, almond-like nuance that wraps the heart in a warm, comforting embrace. 

Lily of the valley adds a crisp, green freshness, reminiscent of dewy morning blooms, while violet introduces a soft, velvety texture that complements the lilac’s sweetness. Tonkin musk imparts a sensual, animalic warmth that underpins the floral notes with a subtle, alluring depth.

In the base, the fragrance settles into a rich, musky foundation. Civet brings a touch of primal, earthy complexity, its robust, slightly pungent aroma adding a provocative edge to the base. Jasmine reappears in the base, reinforcing its enduring presence and enhancing the perfume’s overall sensuality. 

Musk completes the composition with its creamy, enveloping softness, providing a lingering warmth that anchors the lilac and floral notes, ensuring they resonate long after the initial application.

Guerlilas is a symphony of floral notes that evoke a sense of timeless elegance and sophistication. The lilac's gentle, powdery sweetness, combined with the rich and multifaceted floral heart and the warm, musky base, creates a fragrance that is both enchanting and enduring, capturing the essence of classic beauty and grace.

 

Bottles:

Presented in four different size ‘Guerlilas’ bottles (parfum) as well as the quadrilobe flacon (parfum) .I believe it was also offered in the Goutte flacon (eau de toilette).

Advertising & Selling, 1931:
"Guerlain has adapted a graceful silver fountain motif to both the flat bottle and the carton of L'Heure Bleue. In the category of cylinders, Guerlilas is encased in a magnificent pillar of black and silver in alternate horizontal bands which might be the work of Brancusi himself." 



Fate of the Fragrance:


Guerlilas by Guerlain, a celebrated floral fragrance, was discontinued, although the exact date remains unknown. By 1955, it was still available on the market, a testament to its enduring appeal even as newer fragrances emerged. However, the fate of Guerlilas was marked by a notable shift in its availability. A 1934 advertisement in the Pittsburgh Press indicated that both Guerlilas and Guerlarose were discontinued around that time.

This advertisement reflects a transitional period for Guerlain, suggesting a strategic pivot or a change in their product lineup. Despite the 1934 ad's announcement, the lingering presence of Guerlilas into the mid-1950s indicates that some bottles may have remained in circulation, continuing to enchant fragrance enthusiasts even after official discontinuation. The fragrance's eventual removal from the market, while uncertain in its exact timing, underscores the ephemeral nature of perfume collections and the shifting preferences that drive the fragrance industry.

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