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Wednesday, March 30, 2022

Dix Petales de Roses by Guerlain c1897

Dix Pétales de Roses by Guerlain, launched in 1897 and created by Jacques Guerlain, is a perfume whose name translates from French to "Ten Rose Petals." The choice of this name reflects a deliberate focus on delicacy and simplicity, emphasizing the elegance and timeless beauty of the rose. Roses have long symbolized romance, femininity, and grace, and by evoking the image of precisely ten rose petals, the fragrance suggests a careful, refined composition—a balance of beauty and restraint. The number "ten" adds a sense of completeness, as if capturing the perfect moment when a rose is in full bloom.

The name "Dix Pétales de Roses" conjures vivid imagery of soft, fragrant rose petals scattered in a garden or perhaps carefully placed in a delicate sachet. It evokes emotions of romance, tenderness, and serenity. The soft, sensual allure of rose petals is universally associated with love and beauty, and the phrase would instantly bring to mind the lush, velvety feel of rose petals and their intoxicating scent. The word "Dix" (ten) suggests an intentional, almost poetic precision, highlighting the artisanal care that would have gone into crafting the fragrance.

In terms of scent, Dix Pétales de Roses would be interpreted as a floral fragrance, likely dominated by rose notes but balanced by subtle undertones that enhance the freshness and purity of the roses themselves. Guerlain would have likely crafted this perfume to be soft and delicate, with a graceful sillage, capturing the fleeting beauty of rose petals as they fall. The scent would be light and ethereal, perfect for everyday wear, offering a refined yet romantic presence. Women of the time would have been drawn to the subtle elegance of the fragrance, appreciating its ability to capture the essence of a single flower with sophistication.

During the 1890s, when Dix Pétales de Roses was launched, women were increasingly engaged with the cultural shifts of the time, balancing tradition with a growing interest in modernity. A perfume named "Ten Rose Petals" would have resonated with women who valued refinement and subtle luxury. Roses were a quintessential symbol of femininity, and the idea of a perfume based on rose petals would appeal to those who sought to embody grace, delicacy, and natural beauty. The romantic nature of the fragrance would have made it an ideal choice for women who wished to enhance their elegance and allure.

The 19th century was an important era for roses in perfumery, as the flower became central to many perfume compositions. Roses were primarily sourced from regions like Grasse in France, known for their exceptional quality. The extraction methods for rose oil, such as distillation and enfleurage, were refined during this period, allowing perfumers to capture the pure essence of the flower in their creations. Roses were valued not only for their beauty but also for their versatility in fragrance, being used in everything from floral bouquets to more complex, layered perfumes.

Dix Pétales de Roses would have capitalized on the popularity of the rose in late 19th-century perfumery, offering women a fragrance that symbolized their refined tastes and connection to a long tradition of rose-scented luxury. It spoke to the period’s appreciation for natural beauty, craftsmanship, and the timeless appeal of floral fragrances.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as floral fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: rose, citron, violet
  • Middle notes: rose, ylang ylang, tuberose, carnation, Tonkin musk, suede
  • Base notes: jasmine, rose, civet

Scent Profile:


As you begin your experience with Dix Pétales de Roses, the top notes greet you with an exquisite, delicate bouquet. The unmistakable scent of rose immediately envelops you, soft and romantic, like the fragrance of freshly picked blooms carried on a gentle breeze. It's a pure, floral introduction, lush and full, yet tender. 

Alongside the rose, there’s a bright, citrusy hint of citron, offering a lively zest that lifts the florals, like sunlight streaming through a garden. It cuts through the richness with a sharp, refreshing edge, adding energy to the composition. The violet soon follows, powdery and soft, creating a nostalgic sweetness that hints at something timeless, like a fleeting memory of springtime blossoms. The interplay of rose and violet creates a harmonious opening that is at once fresh and deeply romantic.

As the fragrance develops, you’re drawn deeper into the heart of the perfume. The rose continues to bloom, now even fuller and more intoxicating, enveloping you in its velvety richness. It’s met by the exotic and sensual notes of ylang ylang, which adds a creamy, slightly spicy depth. There’s an unmistakable warmth to this note, almost tropical in its sensuality, as if the air is thick with fragrant flowers under the summer sun. 

The voluptuous, heady presence of tuberose emerges next, lending a narcotic, almost buttery quality to the floral bouquet. It’s rich and seductive, blending seamlessly with the carnation, whose spicy, clove-like undertones add complexity and warmth, giving the fragrance a fiery floral bite. The hint of Tonkin musk weaves through these florals, grounding them with its smooth, animalic undertones. It feels intimate and enveloping, as though the scent clings to your skin, warm and slightly sweet, like a whisper of softness. The suede note subtly emerges, bringing with it a luxurious texture, adding depth and a tactile, velvety smoothness to the bouquet, balancing the florals with its sensual, leathery nuance.

As the fragrance settles, the base notes reveal themselves in a mesmerizing finale. Jasmine comes forward, its sweet, heady aroma adding an intoxicating sensuality that mingles beautifully with the lingering rose, now softened and blended with the deeper facets of the perfume. The jasmine is lush, almost indolic, but never overpowering. It melds with the rich rose that has been present throughout, now darker and more mysterious, carrying a hint of melancholy. 

A touch of civet adds a daring, animalic edge to the otherwise soft florals. Its muskiness is raw and primal, bringing a surprising sensuality to the composition. This note, combined with the suede and musk, creates an irresistible depth, transforming the fragrance from a purely floral experience into something far more complex and seductive.

Dix Pétales de Roses is a floral masterpiece, carefully crafted to unfold like a garden in bloom. From the bright freshness of citron and violet to the deep, sensual layers of ylang ylang, tuberose, and musk, every ingredient tells a story. It evokes the sensation of wandering through a fragrant garden at dusk, where each bloom reveals its secrets, softened by the warmth of the earth and the fading light. The perfume lingers on the skin like a cherished memory, sensual and unforgettable.


Bottles:

Housed in the Flacon Plat (Flat) cstarting in 1897. The bottle was created by Pochet et du Courval. Housed various Guerlain fragrances such as Tsao Ko, Belle France, Dix Petales de Roses, Cyprisine, Le Jardin de Mon Cure, Gavotte, Paris Nouveau, Violette a Deux Sous, Bouquet Mademoiselle, Grande Marechale, Young Princess, and Rodomel.








A John Wanamaker ad from the Delaware County Times, 1902:
The one man in the Old World bold enough to use nothing but the finest ingredients in his perfumes is M. Guerlain of Rue de la Paix, Paris. He employs only the purest suet to extract the essence of flowers, and the purest alcohol to release their fragrance. His extracts are true, offering a delicacy or intensity depending on your choice, for nothing in nature that breathes sweetness escapes the keen, discerning nose of Guerlain.
Take, for example, his extract Far West (which we exclusively offer in America), where the woods have gifted their damp, earthy, cedar-like aroma. It’s a rare experience to have the scent of the wet forest captured in a bottle. Far West is so original and delightful that people can't help but laugh with pleasure at its novelty, even as they claim they don’t like it. Yet, inevitably, they return to it—just as they say they won’t—because it clings irresistibly to the senses.
Another marvel of Guerlain’s craft is Aquarella, a sweet, firm, and enchanting fragrance. It is as delicate as almond blossoms, yet with an underlying substance that captivates. Whatever Guerlain touches is guaranteed to be of the highest purity and quality. Among his other extraordinary creations are Tume, Fragrance, Rup, Gazaki, Verveine, Paris Gem, Geranium de Serre, Floxinia, Aquarella, Full Scent, Far West, Violet du Embaume, Violet de Alger, Le Jardin de Mon Curé, Tsao-Ko, Dix Pétales de Roses, and Belle France. Each of these is a testament to his unmatched artistry.


Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.


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