Musc by Guerlain c1833

Musc by Guerlain, launched in 1833 and crafted by Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain, was a bold and evocative fragrance. The name "Musc," derived from the French word for "musk," immediately conjures images of sensuality, warmth, and raw natural allure. Musk, originally sourced from the gland of the musk deer, was prized for its deep, animalic quality, which conveyed a sense of both mystery and intimacy. In scent, the name "Musc" suggests an enveloping, velvety richness—a perfume that is seductive, warm, and deeply resonant. Its animalic nature evokes primal instincts while maintaining an air of refined elegance.

The word "Musc" evokes emotions tied to sensuality and power, blending the natural with the luxurious. In the 19th century, women would have likely viewed a perfume called "Musc" as daring and sophisticated. Musk was associated with the exotic and the rare, making it an ingredient that would appeal to those seeking to enhance their allure and command attention. Women of the time, living in an era when fragrance was integral to personal expression, would have embraced Musc for its ability to add an element of mystique to their presence.

The time period in which Musc was launched was marked by the early stages of the Industrial Revolution, a period of rapid growth, innovation, and change. In this context, perfume played a significant role in society, particularly among the upper classes, as a marker of wealth, sophistication, and personal taste. The Romantic movement in art and literature, with its emphasis on emotion, nature, and sensuality, also influenced perfumery, making fragrances like Musc highly desirable for their ability to evoke deep feelings and connections with the natural world.

At the time of Musc’s introduction, perfumers were still relying on natural ingredients such as extracts, infusions, and tinctures. The composition of Musc would have likely involved blending these natural animalics with floral notes to soften and round out its intensity, creating a balance between the rawness of musk and the grace of flowers. As the 19th century progressed, the introduction of synthetic molecules began to transform perfumery, allowing for even more intricate and long-lasting compositions. Though Musc would have originally been crafted with the purest natural materials, later versions may have incorporated synthetics, enhancing its ability to linger on the skin while still preserving its sensual essence.

Guerlain’s Musc stood out as an embodiment of the era’s fascination with both the natural world and human emotions, offering a fragrance that combined the best of both worlds—animalic warmth and floral elegance. For women of the 19th century, it would have represented a perfect balance between sophistication and seduction.

Fragrance Composition:

We do not know Guerlain's actual formula for their Musc perfume, but I have provided the basic formula from the same era to give you an idea.

 

• Top notes: bergamot, geranium, cassie  
• Middle notes: tuberose, jasmine, rose 
• Base notes: storax, musk, civet, ambergris, ambrette

Scent Profile:

As I experience the top notes of Musc, the first impression is a bright, sparkling burst of bergamot. Its citrusy tang fills the air with an uplifting, slightly bitter freshness, immediately awakening my senses. This is soon followed by the crisp, green spiciness of geranium, which adds a lively, almost rosy sharpness. 

Geranium's aroma is complex, at once invigorating and grounding, balancing the brightness of the bergamot. Cassie, with its delicate, powdery sweetness, emerges next, softening the top notes with its warm floral nuance. It evokes the image of yellow mimosa blossoms, their tender, honeyed scent adding a gentle golden glow to the opening of the fragrance.

As the top notes settle, the heart of Musc begins to bloom, revealing a lush bouquet of white florals. Tuberose leads the charge, its creamy, almost narcotic scent enveloping me in a rich, heady embrace. The intensity of tuberose is tempered by the opulent sweetness of jasmine, which adds a sensual depth, its velvety petals unfolding with an intoxicating allure. 

Rose, the timeless queen of flowers, completes the trio, offering a soft, romantic touch. Its deep, slightly spicy character balances the creamy sweetness of the other florals, creating a heart that is both delicate and voluptuous, like a garden in full bloom under the warmth of the afternoon sun.

As the fragrance settles into its base, a warm, animalic depth begins to emerge. Musk rises first, its velvety, slightly sweet warmth creating an intimate, skin-like softness. It’s both comforting and sensual, wrapping the florals in a delicate yet unmistakable aura. Civet follows, introducing an animalic note that is raw, earthy, and primal. Its intensity is softened by the smooth, balsamic richness of storax, which adds a resinous depth and a touch of smoky sweetness. 

Ambergris infuses the base with its oceanic, slightly salty warmth, reminiscent of sun-warmed skin after a day by the sea. Finally, ambrette introduces a subtle musky sweetness, with a nutty, slightly fruity facet that lingers softly in the background, rounding out the base with an elegant, natural warmth.

Together, these notes form a complex, evocative composition that balances brightness and sensuality, floral beauty and animalic depth. Musc evolves on the skin like a story unfolding, each layer revealing a new chapter in this rich, luxurious tale of fragrance.

Bottle:

The extrait was housed in the carre flacon.

Fate of the Fragrance:

The fragrance was discontinued sometime in the early 1900s.