Rex by Guerlain c1890s

Rex by Guerlain, launched in the 1890s, carries with it a name steeped in regal symbolism. The word "Rex" is Latin for "king," a simple yet powerful word that evokes a sense of authority, grandeur, and legacy. Guerlain’s choice of this name was deliberate, reflecting the continued influence and admiration of monarchy and aristocracy during this time, as well as an allusion to one of its earlier fragrances, Bouquet du Roi (King’s Bouquet). In renaming the fragrance "Rex," Guerlain not only modernized the earlier creation but also amplified its association with royalty and prestige, aligning the perfume with the grandeur of kingship.

The word "Rex" conjures images of royal courts, gilded palaces, and stately ceremonies. It evokes feelings of power, grace, and nobility, bringing to mind the opulence and dignity associated with monarchy. In scent, "Rex" would be interpreted as something deeply luxurious, possibly rich and layered with notes that symbolize strength and refinement—perhaps rich woods like sandalwood or cedar, deep spices, and subtle floral accords like iris or violet, which often signify elegance and royalty in perfumery. It would be a fragrance that commands attention and evokes respect, much like the presence of a king.

For women of the 1890s, a perfume called "Rex" would have symbolized a connection to aristocratic elegance and sophistication. This was a period when monarchies and noble titles still held considerable sway over society, and the idea of royalty was deeply admired. Women who wore Rex would likely feel an air of distinction and privilege, imagining themselves stepping into the shoes of queens or noblewomen. The name alone would suggest that the wearer was someone of importance, or at the very least, someone who desired to embody the grace and power associated with royalty.

The time period of the 1890s was one of transition, as Europe still maintained many monarchies, even while democratic movements gained traction. Guerlain, a house rooted in tradition and famed for its perfumes tailored to the tastes of the elite, continued to create fragrances that appealed to royalty and nobility. This was the era of the Belle Époque, a period of flourishing art, culture, and fashion in Paris. The wealthy upper classes, including European royalty, were still influential arbiters of taste, and luxurious fragrances were essential to their image.

By naming the fragrance Rex, Guerlain reinforced its ties to nobility, continuing a tradition of serving royalty and aristocrats. The brand had already established itself as a favorite among elite circles, having created perfumes for Empress Eugénie and other royal figures. Guerlain understood the importance of maintaining this connection with the upper echelons of society, where opulence, status, and tradition were still highly valued. At the same time, Rex could also appeal to the aspirational classes, as it represented a touch of regal luxury that symbolized power and exclusivity in a period where many people still admired and sought to emulate the elegance of nobility.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? I have no notes on its composition, but based on its color alone, I would say it probably contains vanilla, which has caused the perfume to oxidize into the deep brown color over time. It may also contain musk and ambergris, two popular perfumery notes during Guerlain's last few years of the 19th century.  

• Top notes: bergamot, bitter almond
• Middle notes: clove oil, rose, orris, jasmine, violet
• Base notes: tonka bean, benzoin, vanilla, vetiver, musk, ambergris

Bottles:

Rex was housed in the Carre flacon as seen below.

It was also available in stilboide fluide.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Rex was most likely discontinued within 1910-1920 period. It remains a rare Guerlain fragrance to be found today.