Cyprisine by Guerlain c1894

Cyprisine, launched by Guerlain in 1894 and created by Aimé Guerlain, carries a name that evokes a sense of elegance and timeless beauty. The word "Cyprisine" is derived from the name Cyprus, rooted in French ("Chypre"), which is historically linked to the island where Aphrodite, the goddess of love and beauty, was said to have emerged. The name "Cyprisine" draws on this mythological heritage, symbolizing an air of romance, allure, and femininity. It would have immediately conjured images of classical beauty, the Mediterranean, and the divine presence of Aphrodite herself. Women of the Belle Époque would have likely interpreted Cyprisine as a fragrance of sophistication, embodying grace, sensuality, and mystery.

In scent, Cyprisine would be experienced as both earthy and ethereal. As a chypre fragrance, it followed a traditional formula of blending citrus top notes with a heart of florals and a mossy, resinous base. Chypre perfumes are characterized by their unique contrast between fresh and warm, bright and dark, making them both timeless and compelling. Women of the late 19th century, emerging in an age of luxury and artistry, would have appreciated the rich complexity of this fragrance. The name Cyprisine would evoke visions of lush Mediterranean landscapes, warm breezes, and the soft fragrance of forested hillsides, giving a sense of escape and elegance.

The Belle Époque, the period in which Cyprisine was introduced, was an era of opulence, where art, fashion, and luxury goods flourished. Perfume was an essential accessory for women during this time, and Guerlain was at the forefront of creating sophisticated, high-quality scents. While many fragrances of the time focused on florals, such as violet and rose, chypre perfumes stood out for their depth and multifaceted composition. Cyprisine, with its chypre structure, would have been unique and daring compared to the more straightforward floral compositions popular in the 1890s, appealing to women who desired something bold, distinctive, and grounded in nature.

A chypre fragrance is built on a traditional accord of three key components: citrus, typically bergamot, at the top; a heart of floral or fruity notes; and a base of earthy, resinous notes like oakmoss, labdanum, and patchouli. This creates a beautifully balanced contrast between light and dark, where fresh citrus evolves into a warm, woody dry down. Chypres were among the most sophisticated of fragrance families, offering a long-lasting and elegant profile that felt luxurious and rich.

The history of chypre perfumes is tied closely to Mediterranean influences, with the first modern example emerging in the 17th century, though the structure dates back even further. By the late 19th century, chypre perfumes became highly regarded in high society. Guerlain, known for their innovation in perfumery, first introduced a chypre fragrance in 1850 with Eau de Chypre. The release of Cyprisine in 1894 reflected their continuing mastery of the chypre family, followed later by Chypre de Paris in 1909 and the legendary Mitsouko in 1919, which became one of the most iconic chypre fragrances of all time.

The ingredients of Cyprisine would have been sourced from natural extractions typical of the period. Oakmoss, one of the defining components of chypre fragrances, would have been harvested from forests, while the labdanum resin likely came from rockrose bushes in the Mediterranean region. Early chypre perfumes relied heavily on such natural materials—infusions, tinctures, and absolutes—but as the 19th century came to a close, synthetics such as coumarin and vanillin began to be used to create more consistent and innovative blends. These synthetic compounds allowed perfumers to elevate traditional notes with modern techniques, offering longer-lasting and more vibrant compositions.

The late 19th century saw the rise of synthetic aroma compounds, and Guerlain was one of the pioneering houses to embrace these innovations. Perfume formulas from this era frequently appeared in perfumery manuals, blending natural and synthetic ingredients to recreate the fresh, dewy aromas of flowers and forests. Guerlain’s Cyprisine, standing among these developments, was part of a larger trend where perfumers used creative names to distinguish their own take on the chypre accord. Cyprisine was not only a nod to tradition but also a reflection of perfumery’s future.

In the context of other fragrances on the market in 1894, Cyprisine stood apart as a distinctive and elevated composition. While many fragrances were still focused on single floral notes or simple accords, Cyprisine showcased the complexity of the chypre structure, offering women an intriguing and sophisticated alternative. It represented both the height of luxury and a sense of adventure, speaking to the modern, cosmopolitan woman of the Belle Époque.

Evening Star, 1913:

"Mere names of perfumes give no idea," said Zinda Brozia. "You must smell them. As many makers, so there are as many "'chypres'. There is no such perfume, though Walter Scott mentions it, and Houbigant had a 'cypris" in 1775. Guerlain has a 'cyprisine' and a 'chypre de Paris'. The original 'Chypre' was a very successful mixture of Atkinson, years ago; and as he did not protect the name, everybody took it up. Now Guerlain's 'Chypre de Paris', although of the cheap $1.20 series, is a sum total of perfume value, distinction and lasting qualities. I imagine it would be impossible to repeat, hein?"

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a spicy floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: carnation, rose, aromatic notes, citrus notes
• Middle notes: rose, freesia, ylang ylang, orange blossom, sandalwood, clove, cinnamon
• Base notes: musk, tonka bean, vanilla, orris

Scent Profile:

As I take in the opening of Cyprisine, the first impression is a vibrant rush of spicy floral notes. The carnation immediately stands out, with its peppery, almost clove-like intensity, filling the air with a warm, floral spiciness that feels both vintage and timeless. 

It is softened by the unmistakable presence of rose, offering a velvety sweetness that rounds out the sharper edges of the carnation. Interwoven with these florals is the subtle zest of citrus, brightening the bouquet with an invigorating freshness, while the aromatic undertones hint at herbal or green notes that add a layer of earthiness, grounding the fragrance.

As the scent settles, the heart of Cyprisine reveals itself in a lush, floral cascade. The rose deepens, becoming richer and more opulent, while freesia adds a delicate freshness with its crisp, almost watery facets. The exotic ylang-ylang blooms in the background, its creamy, slightly fruity floral notes lending a sense of luxury and depth to the composition. Orange blossom follows, offering a sweet, honeyed brightness that mingles effortlessly with the ylang-ylang, creating an air of romantic indulgence.

Beneath the florals lies the warmth of sandalwood, smooth and milky, wrapping the floral heart in a soft, woody embrace. The clove and cinnamon reintroduce spice to the fragrance, adding a fiery warmth that intertwines with the florals, creating a dynamic balance of sweetness and heat. These spices enhance the carnation's natural spiciness while giving the perfume a cozy, inviting feel, as if the scent is gently unfolding with time.

As Cyprisine dries down, its base notes come forward, adding layers of depth and sensuality. The musk is soft, clean, and subtly animalic, offering a touch of warmth and intimacy that lingers on the skin. The tonka bean brings a creamy, almond-like sweetness, melding perfectly with the vanilla, which adds a rich, comforting sweetness without overpowering the other elements. 

Orris, with its powdery, violet-like scent, adds an air of elegance to the base, creating a soft, almost tactile quality that enhances the florals and spice. Together, the base notes of Cyprisine form a velvety, soft, and lingering finish that is as complex as it is refined, leaving a lasting impression of warmth, sensuality, and timeless beauty.

Bottles:

Presented in the Flacon Plat (Flat) starting in 1894. The bottle was created by Pochet et du Courval. Housed various Guerlain fragrances such as Tsao Ko, Belle France, Dix Petales de Roses, Cyprisine, Le Jardin de Mon Cure, Gavotte, Paris Nouveau, Violette a Deux Sous, Bouquet Mademoiselle, Grande Marechale, Young Princess, and Rodomel.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1923.