Coque D'Or by Guerlain c1937

Coque d'Or by Guerlain, launched in 1937, was a sophisticated play on words, drawing its name and inspiration from the famous 1907 Rimsky-Korsakov opera, The Golden Cockerel (Le Coq d'Or). This Russian opera tells the story of King Dodon, a complacent ruler who receives a magical golden cockerel from an astrologer. The bird serves as a protector of his kingdom, crowing whenever danger is near. However, the king becomes captivated by the beauty of a mysterious queen and is led into chaos and ruin. The opera blends themes of illusion, fate, and power, creating a rich narrative that Jacques Guerlain sought to reflect in his perfume.

The name "Coque d'Or", from the French language, translates to "Golden Shell" (though it evokes the phonetic resemblance to "coq," meaning rooster, as in the opera’s title). It is pronounced "kok d'or", and the choice of words is deliberate and layered, tying back to the opera’s story of opulence, danger, and seduction. Guerlain, known for his deep appreciation of the arts, likely saw parallels between the tale of a doomed king and the elegance and allure that a perfume should embody.

The imagery that the phrase "Coque d'Or" conjures is one of shimmering, gilded beauty—a golden sheen or shell that conceals deeper emotions and desires. The perfume would have evoked images of glittering opulence, courtly intrigue, and the tension between indulgence and caution. For women of the late 1930s, "Coque d'Or" likely symbolized sophistication and allure, a fragrance that could envelop them in mystery and elegance, much like the golden cockerel that warned of danger while representing power and wealth.

When Coque d’Or was launched in 1937, the world was in a state of great change. Europe was on the brink of World War II, and many artists, writers, and creators were turning to history, myth, and fantasy as a way to grapple with the uncertainties of the time. Astronomy and astrology, which figure prominently in the opera’s plot, also influenced the art, film, fashion, and even perfumery of the period. The stars represented both a source of inspiration and a means of understanding fate and destiny—forces beyond human control. Guerlain’s choice to name his perfume after an opera rich in celestial symbolism reflects this fascination with the cosmos and its relationship to the unknown.

Naming a perfume after an opera was significant because opera, much like fragrance, was an art form that appealed to the senses, evoking deep emotion through a combination of music, storytelling, and visual spectacle. The Russian influence in The Golden Cockerel might have also appealed to Guerlain, as the 1930s saw a fascination with Russian art and culture following the Russian Revolution. The ballet and opera companies of Diaghilev's Ballets Russes had taken Paris by storm in the 1910s and 1920s, and the exoticism of Russian art was still influential in French culture. Guerlain’s connection to the opera could have been a nod to the ongoing fascination with Russian exoticism and drama.

Furthermore, the opera's themes of impending danger and the astrologer’s ability to foresee doom may have resonated with the mood of 1937. With the looming threat of war, Guerlain may have seen the golden cockerel, a warning bird, as a symbol of vigilance and protection—an apt metaphor for the troubled times ahead. By associating his perfume with this opera, Guerlain perhaps sought to evoke a sense of nostalgia for a more opulent, golden past, even as the world was about to descend into darkness.

In scent, "Coque d'Or" could be imagined as rich, warm, and luminous—mirroring the golden brilliance suggested by the name. Notes of chypre, balsamic vanilla, and lush florals might have been interpreted as a luxurious gilded shell, under which complex emotions of seduction, power, and vulnerability simmered. Women of the era might have found solace or empowerment in wearing a perfume that represented such a blend of beauty and danger, reflecting their own experience in an increasingly uncertain world.

Coque d'Or was not merely a fragrance but a symbol—of history, art, and the delicate dance between elegance and strength. Its golden shell evoked a sense of beauty and mystery that aligned with the era’s cultural obsessions and emotional landscape.

Fragrance Composition:

What does it smell like? It is classified as a lush, velvet, fruity chypre fragrance for women with a musky base.

• Top notes: anise, fruity notes, lavender, bergamot, aldehydes
• Middle notes: jasmine, carnation, cyclamen, orris, vetiver, patchouli, tolu balsam, musk
• Base notes: oakmoss, civet, vanilla

Stage, 1938:

"Or, if this hostess is a favorite of yours, a bottle of Guerlain's Coque d'Or, which smells like we imagine Heaven."

The New Yorker, 1938:

"Guerlain's most recent, Coque d'Or, is very heavy, and therefore a controversial matter."

Esquire, 1939:

"Guerlain's dry, modern Vol de Nuit for the girl of Tomorrow, the lush, velvet Coque d'Or for the girl of tonight."

Scent Profile:

As I experience Coque d'Or for the first time, the opening notes immediately captivate my senses with their unique combination of freshness, spice, and warmth. Anise strikes first—a cool, slightly sweet licorice scent that feels both sharp and mysterious. This is quickly softened by a swirl of fruity notes, which bring a gentle, juicy sweetness, perhaps reminiscent of ripe stone fruits or a lush orchard in full bloom. 

The bright, herbal freshness of lavender follows, its clean, slightly medicinal profile lending a calming, airy quality. It intertwines effortlessly with bergamot, adding a sparkling, citrusy brightness that refreshes and uplifts the entire composition. The final shimmer of aldehydes lifts the top accord further, giving the fragrance a light, almost effervescent quality that feels luminous, like a ray of light cast over the velvet depth below.

As the scent begins to settle, the heart reveals a lush and rich floral tapestry. Jasmine emerges first—opulent and sensual, its intoxicating sweetness filling the air. There is a deep, honeyed warmth in its essence, as if each petal carries the heat of a sun-soaked garden. 

Next, carnation adds a touch of spice, with its peppery warmth cutting through the florals, creating a delightful contrast. The softer, more delicate florals of cyclamen weave in, lending a subtle, watery note, like a cool breeze passing through a blooming field. The orris root, powdery and slightly earthy, wraps the heart in a velvety softness, evoking a sense of elegance and refinement.

At the same time, the fragrance deepens with the grounding, earthy richness of vetiver and patchouli. Vetiver's green, grassy dryness blends with patchouli’s darker, woodsy character, introducing a sensual complexity that pulls me further into the heart of the scent. The sweet, balsamic touch of tolu balsam adds a resinous warmth, while hints of musk begin to surface, laying the foundation for the deeper base notes to come.

As the fragrance reaches its final evolution, the base reveals itself, grounding the ethereal top and heart notes in a dark, musky embrace. Oakmoss is unmistakable here—deep, earthy, and slightly damp, evoking the dense, rich smell of a forest floor after rain. This note adds a velvety green bitterness, grounding the scent in its chypre character. 

The animalic note of civet provides a raw, primal quality, a touch of warmth that feels intimate and almost dangerous. It adds depth and a touch of sensuality, blending seamlessly with the powdery warmth of vanilla, which wraps everything in a soft, comforting sweetness, like the final golden threads of a luxurious tapestry.

The fragrance lingers on the skin with a musky warmth, the interplay of animalic and sweet notes creating a deeply seductive and mysterious aura. Coque d'Or, in all its richness and complexity, feels like an opulent, velvet cloak—both soft and sumptuous, with layers that reveal new facets of depth and intrigue with each passing moment. The journey from the sharp, effervescent top notes to the deep, musky base is like a story unfolding, each chapter more enticing than the last.

Bottles:

Coque d’Or's presentation was as opulent as its fragrance, encapsulated in an Art Deco masterpiece that elevated it beyond just perfume and into the realm of art. The Cristalleries de Baccarat blue bow-shaped bottle—design #770, known as the "Noeud Papillon" (Butterfly Bow)—was crafted with meticulous attention to luxury and detail. The deep cobalt blue of the glass exuded elegance, while the bottle's unique shape, resembling a delicate bow, evoked femininity and grace. But what truly made this bottle stand out was the rich gilt 'shell' covering, which enveloped the bottle in a golden, almost regal armor. This lavish gilding was not merely decorative; it echoed the extravagant artistry of Jacques Guerlain’s close friend, Sergei Diaghilev, founder of the Ballets Russes, a man known for his theatrical flair and love for bold aesthetics.

• Ref. No. 214 - 1 oz Parfum (Noed Papillion)
• Ref. No. 215 - 4 oz Parfum (Noed Papillion)
• Ref. No. 216 - 8 oz Parfum (Noed Papillion)

This bottle was available in two versions: one with extensive gilded work, where the entire surface was covered in a golden sheen, and the other, a more restrained design where the cobalt glass was accented with delicate gold detailing. Both versions spoke of luxury and artistry, but the fully gilded version, crafted until around 1945, symbolized an era of uninhibited opulence. The craftsmanship behind the gold gilding was intricate, and sadly, the factory responsible for this technique was destroyed during World War II, which led to the discontinuation of the all-over gilt version. After the war, only the cobalt blue bottle with minor gilt accents was produced, a reminder of a more extravagant time lost to history. The bottle design itself was eventually discontinued in 1956, but its legacy lived on as an icon of 1930s luxury.

The bottle was also used for two other Guerlain perfumes: Kriss and Dawamesk, adding further significance to the design. Each perfume, though different in composition, shared the same luxurious housing, enhancing the mystique and grandeur associated with the Guerlain name.

• Coque D'Or was launched in 1937 and sold until 1953,
• Kriss was launched in 1942 and sold until 1947.
• Dawamesk was launched in 1945 and sold until 1956.

Accompanying this dazzling bottle was the first luxury presentation case, designed by the renowned Jean-Michel Frank, known for his minimalist yet elegant approach to design. The case was made of limed oak wood, a light and sophisticated material, and featured an inlaid lattice design crafted from white plaster, a striking contrast to the dark cobalt and gold of the bottle within. The box was covered entirely in white plaster, which lent it a modern, architectural look—a hallmark of Frank’s design philosophy. Inside, the bottle was nestled within a lining of white cardboard, held securely by gold metal claws, ensuring it was both protected and displayed as the work of art it was.

For those seeking a more affordable option, a second version of the box was produced. This version, while still elegant, was made from paper that imitated the wood and plaster effect of the more expensive case. Even in this simpler form, the box retained its allure, maintaining the artistic spirit of the original while being more accessible to a broader audience.

Every element of Coque d’Or's presentation, from the Baccarat bottle to the Jean-Michel Frank-designed case, told a story of glamour, art, and luxury. It wasn’t just a fragrance but a tribute to the artistic collaborations and the opulent world that Guerlain and Diaghilev inhabited. The connection to the ballet, art, and theater of the time made Coque d’Or more than a scent—it was an experience, a piece of history captured in a bottle.

Stage, 1937:

"Guerlain has its new Coque d'Or in a regal gold- and-royal-blue bottle, which fits into a white, silk-lined box you can use for those sapphires and emeralds of yours."

Drug & Cosmetic Industry, 1938:

"Guerlain can always be depended upon to bring out one beautiful presentation a year. Last year about this time it was "Vega' and now its is "Coque D'Or" a bouquet. Coque D'Or is presented in a smart bottle in the shape of a bow of gold ribbon, hence the name. The sides of the bottle are gold and the top is of a rich blue by Baccarat. The box in which it comes is lovely enough to hold jewelry. In natural oak decorated with white and gold, the box is in keeping with the new Guerlain shop on Place Vendome. It is available in one size only containing 2 ¼ oz and retailing at $40.” In a 1938 article in The Stage magazine, it mentions that "Guerlain's exquisite Coque D'Or, newly put out in smaller size ($22.50)."

 

Also available in the Quadrilobe bottle (parfum), flacon Guerre (parfum), the Amphore flacon (parfum), and in the Goutte flacon (eau de toilette).

Flacon Bouchon Quadrilobe (Quatrefoil Stopper) c1908-1956:

Flacon quadrilobe was made by five different glass manufacturers: Baccarat, Pochet et du Courval, St Gobain Desjonqueres, Cristalleries de Nancy, Cristal Romesnil, Verreries Brosse, and BSN-GD Flaconnage to hold extraits for various perfumes. Some later bottles hold eaux de toilette or eaux de parfum. Baccarat flacon #24. Created in 1908 for the fragrance Rue de la Paix and has been used since as the ‘house bottle’. The labels known as ‘etiquette laurier’ because of the laurel leaf borders, except for the perfume Coque D’Or, Dawamesk, Liu and Fleur de Feu which show a more 'modernist' design. This bottle was used for Coque d'Or up to 1956 when the perfume was discontinued.

Flacon de Guerre (War Time Edition) c1938-1945:

 

Pochet et du Courval created this bottle to house extraits of Shalimar, Jicky, Guerlinade, Fleur de Feu, Mitsouko, L'Heure Bleue, Liu, Kadine, Verveine,Vague Souvenir, Champs Elysees,  Geranium d'Espagne, Jasmiralda, Lilas, Bouquet de Faunes, Guerlilas, Gavotte, Coque d'Or, Imperial Russe, Fleur Qui Meurt, Gardenia,  and others.

• 10cc/10ml/0.388 oz (1939-1945) 
• 20cc/20ml/0.676 oz (1939-1945) 
• 30cc/30ml/1 oz (1938-1945) 
• 40cc/40ml/1.35 oz (1938-1945) 
• 82cc/82ml/2.77 oz - 10,3cm/4.06" (1938-1945) 
• 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz (1938-1945) 
• 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz (1938-1945) 
• 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz (1938-1945)

Flacon Carre Bas de Forme (Low Square Form) c1880-1939:

Bottle made by Pochet et du Courval to hold eaux de toilette, eaux de cologne and lotion vegetal in various scents.

• 130cc/130ml/4.4 oz - 15cm/5.91" 
• 332cc/332ml/11.23 oz - 19,5cm/7.68" 
• 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz - 23cm/9.06" 
• 1000cc/1 liter - 28cm/11.02" 

With or without Femme Drapeaux (woman flags emblem) on reverse

• 3 different stoppers: truncated, flat disk, and ball, (from 1924 for 16.9 oz and 1 liter)

Drug Topics Redbook, 1940:

"Coque d'Or, Guerlain:

• Extract. l oz $22.60 
• Extract. 2 1/4 oz $40.00 
• Toilet Water. 3 oz $6.00 
• Toilet Water. 8 oz 10.00 
• Toilet Water. Pint. $20.00."

Drug and Cosmetic Industry, 1940:

"Guerlain now has a $5 size of toilet water in all the popular fragrances such as Shalimar, Heure Bleue, Vol de Nuit, Coque d'Or, Liu, Mitsouko, Sous le Vent and Vega. The bottle is the same type as the $10 size and an atomizer top."

Realities, 1946:

"I still have a few minutes left to go to Guerlain, place Vendôme. Here, a lot of activity. Spray bottles filled with various perfumes throw very strong aromas at the head of the customers. Two creations: Kriss, Coque d'Or."

Flacon Goutte (Teardrop) c1923-1956:

Bottle created by Pochet et du Courval to hold eaux de toilette only. Bottle also made by different manufacturers over the years. Created as the standard Eau de Toilette presentation. The frosted glass stopper is made of two cockle shells; the label depicts two dolphins known as ‘Etiquette Dauphin’. This bottle was used for Coque d'Or up until 1945, when the fragrance was discontinued.

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

Coque d'Or by Guerlain, launched in 1937, was an iconic perfume, celebrated for its lush, velvety chypre scent and artistic presentation. Though its exact discontinuation date remains uncertain, the fragrance continued to be sold until at least 1956, marking nearly two decades of availability to its devoted clientele. The world of perfumery, particularly in the post-World War II era, was shifting, with changes in consumer demand, availability of ingredients, and the production limitations that affected luxury brands like Guerlain.

By 1956, Coque d’Or had become a symbol of the golden age of pre-war perfumery, a nostalgic reminder of the opulence and artistic collaborations that defined the 1930s. The post-war period brought challenges that likely contributed to its eventual discontinuation. Factories destroyed during the war, like the one responsible for the perfume’s intricate gold gilding, no longer produced the fully gilt version of its famous "Noeud Papillon" bottle. This loss of artisanal craftsmanship, combined with a shift in post-war fashion and tastes, perhaps signaled the end of an era for Coque d’Or.

Despite being available until 1956, Coque d’Or may have started to feel out of step with the emerging trends of the 1950s, when more modern, minimalist fragrances were gaining popularity. The elaborate presentations and rich compositions of earlier decades were giving way to lighter, fresher scents that reflected a post-war desire for simplicity and renewal. The world was moving forward, and though Coque d’Or still maintained a presence in perfumeries, it would eventually slip into the background, cherished by connoisseurs but no longer part of the mainstream fragrance market.

Its discontinuation, while unfortunate, only added to the perfume's mystique. Collectors and perfume lovers who managed to obtain bottles in its final years likely cherished them as a link to a bygone era of Guerlain’s golden age. Even as the fragrance disappeared from the shelves, its legacy lived on, immortalized by its luxurious design, its association with cultural icons like Sergei Diaghilev, and the exquisite artistry that defined its existence. Coque d'Or became not just a discontinued scent, but a rare, sought-after piece of fragrance history.

2014 Powder:

In 2014, Guerlain revived the iconic bow-tie bottle from Coque d'Or, but this time with a modern twist. Instead of holding the famed fragrance, the bottle was transformed into a luxurious vessel for 17.5g of gold iridescent perfumed powder, designed for both the body and hair. This limited-edition release reimagined the iconic bottle as a shimmering centerpiece for the holiday season, now lacquered in radiant gold and fitted with a sprayer, adding an element of glamour and elegance to any vanity.

Part of the “Un Soir à L'Opéra” (A Night at the Opera) collection, Guerlain celebrated the drama and splendor of the opera with this makeup line, evoking visions of sparkling evenings and opulent settings. Despite the luxurious presentation and the intricate design of the bottle, the shimmering powder inside, to the surprise of many, was unscented—an unexpected departure from Guerlain’s tradition of infusing beauty products with rich, sophisticated fragrances. The bow tie bottle, once a symbol of scent, was now a nod to the golden glow of the holidays, enveloping the skin and hair in an ethereal, light-reflecting veil, a tribute to the brand’s history and the sparkle of a glamorous night at the opera.

2014 Reformulation & Reissue:

From the press kit - "A re-release of the fragrance Coque d'Or, created in 1937 by Jacques Guerlain in homage to Diaghilev, the founder of the Ballets Russes. This historic bottle reminiscent of a bow tie evokes the society gent's must-have accessory for his lavish evenings. It was only produced in this 190-ml size in the year of its creation. A different-sized bottle was discontinued in 1956. Now re-released, it has been restored to its original splendor, in blue Baccarat crystal, gilded in 20-karat gold and hand-finished with gold and black silk threads using the baudruchage technique by Guerlain's Dames de table. 

To hold the fragrance, the white and gold case, faithful to the original, has been crafted in light oak and covered with a golden cane-work pattern in relief. 

Through the magic of the archives, the Extract - graciously dedicated to both men and women - has been revived. With its elegant blend of bergamot, patchouli and a rose note, this great classic chypre stands out as a model of this highly distinguished family that is making a strong comeback in contemporary perfumery. The ultimate in daring and luxury, this treasure - lying dormant until now - will be exclusively reserved for 29 enthusiasts worldwide.

  

190-ml Extract, 17,000 Euros. 

29 numbered pieces worldwide."

Fragrance Composition:

In his quest to revive Coque d'Or, Thierry Wasser delved deep into the Guerlain archives, unearthing the original 1937 formula created by Jacques Guerlain. However, as with many classic perfumes, time had taken its toll on the availability of certain ingredients. Some components no longer exist, while others have been restricted or banned due to IFRA safety regulations, posing a significant challenge to the recreation of the vintage scent.

Despite these limitations, Wasser, with his extraordinary talent as a perfumer, managed to reorchestrate the fragrance by skillfully blending modern ingredients. His approach was both respectful and innovative, ensuring that the essence of Coque d'Or—its character, its elegance, its luxurious aura—remained intact. Rather than attempting to replicate the formula exactly, he paid homage to the original by preserving its soul, bringing forward the timeless quality that made Coque d'Or a beloved classic. In this way, Wasser successfully bridged the past with the present, allowing a new generation to experience the golden opulence of this historical perfume, while staying true to its original spirit.

• Top notes: fruity notes, bergamot, lavender, aldehydes and anise
• Middle notes: musk, orris root, cyclamen, vetiver, carnation, jasmine, tolu balsam and patchouli
• Base notes: civet, moss and vanilla

CLICK HERE TO FIND COQUE D'OR BY GUERLAIN