Dawamesk by Guerlain c1942

In 1945, Guerlain reintroduced a fragrance initially named "Kriss" under the name "Dawamesk," an evocative title drawn from a historically rich and sensorially indulgent source. The word "Dawamesk" originates from Arabic, and refers to a green paste or baked confection that was consumed in ancient Near Eastern and Arabic cultures. This mixture, often described as a 'cannabis jam,' combined hashish with an array of luxurious ingredients like honey, butter, spices, and rose essence. Traditionally considered an aphrodisiac, it was said to inspire sensual pleasure and deep relaxation. It could be chewed, diluted in coffee or tea, or even incorporated into jellies. The very name conjures a heady blend of the exotic, forbidden, and sensuous, transporting the imagination to the richly perfumed markets of the Middle East, laden with spices, incense, and the warmth of opulent indulgence. Pronounced "Dah-wah-mesk," the name itself is imbued with a rhythmic, almost hypnotic quality that mirrors the sensory allure of its origins.

The word "Dawamesk" brings to mind vivid images of the ancient Near East and Arabic culture—hidden gardens filled with the intoxicating scent of spices, the luxurious tents of sultans adorned with silk and gold, where pleasures of all kinds were indulged. It evokes a sense of mystery, hedonism, and exotic allure, tinged with a slightly forbidden decadence. The emotions it stirs are those of warmth, sensuality, and a quiet yet powerful luxury. The fragrance interpretation of "Dawamesk" would follow this path—rich, deep, and complex, a blend of spices, musk, and florals that could easily feel at home in an Arabian Nights tale. Classified as an oriental fougère fragrance for women, its composition would surely offer an opulent warmth, grounded by woody and musky notes that reference the mystical, earthy quality of the original confection. The layers of sweet, spice-laden notes like nutmeg, cinnamon, and cardamom would be balanced by delicate floral touches of rose and a deep, balsamic base, mirroring the sensuous complexity of the perfume’s namesake.

For the women of the 1940s, the name "Dawamesk" would have offered a seductive escape into a world far removed from the austerity of post-war Europe. In a time when many sought relief from the harsh realities of a world just emerging from the shadows of World War II, the exoticism of the perfume’s name and its promise of luxury and sensuality would have been deeply appealing. The allure of the East had long captivated Western imaginations, and "Dawamesk," with its reference to ancient indulgences and aphrodisiacs, would have represented a welcome fantasy of pleasure and escape. A woman wearing Dawamesk would have felt as though she were channeling an exotic empress, adorned in silks and jewels, inhabiting a world of opulence and mystique.

The renaming of the fragrance from "Kriss" to "Dawamesk" was undoubtedly a conscious choice by Guerlain to align the perfume with the prevailing cultural fascination of the time. In 1942, with the world engulfed in conflict, "Kriss" may have evoked sharper, more martial connotations, as the word refers to a type of wavy-bladed dagger from Southeast Asia. However, by 1945, with the war over, Guerlain chose to rename the perfume to reflect a more luxurious, peaceful, and sensual mood, appealing to women eager for beauty, pleasure, and the rediscovery of their femininity. "Dawamesk" offered that in abundance—a fragrant journey to far-off lands, where the delicate interplay of rich spices, musks, and floral essences could transport the wearer to a world of sensual fantasy and timeless allure.

 

Fragrance Composition:

What does it smell like? It is classified as an oriental fougere fragrance for women.

• Top notes: lavender, bergamot, orange blossom, violet
• Middle notes: jasmine, rose, ylang ylang, lily of the valley, sage, cinnamon, leather and animalic notes
• Base notes: tonka bean, oakmoss and musk

I have had the pleasure of obtaining two different vintage samples of the Dawamesk parfum. My first sample had degraded quite a bit but the second sample, which I received several years later was absolutely perfect. The first sniff is a rich, sweet floral, a blast of heliotrope with all its cherry pie goodness, mixed with opulent orange blossom, lily of the valley, and rose. A trace of bergamot makes an appearance, though it likes to play hide and seek. Jasmine, ylang ylang and violet also provide a sweetness that is a quite beautiful marriage punctuated by the hot spices of cloves and cinnamon. Herbal lavender and sage add a unique facet to the powdery drydown of tonka bean and oakmoss. Lasting notes of leather and musk round out the composition.

The overall impression is very sweet, powdery and slightly animalic. I love sweet floral perfumes and this one made my heart skip a beat. The parfum lasted a very long time on the back of my hand, even after having washed my hands several times within an 8 hour period, the perfume was still present. In short, I feel this was a masterpiece of perfumery genius. I beg of you, Guerlain, please bring this one back!

Scent Story:

As I inhale the top notes of Dawamesk, I’m immediately transported to the ancient courts of Egypt, where lavender's herbaceous and slightly medicinal sharpness mingles with the golden warmth of the setting sun. The lavender feels fresh and calming, like the cool air drifting over the sands at dusk. Intertwined with this is the bright, citrusy spark of bergamot, as vivid as sunlight glinting off the alabaster walls of temple courtyards. 

The sweetness of orange blossom fills the air, reminiscent of the orange groves that once perfumed the banks of the Nile, offering a honeyed warmth that softens the sharper, fresher tones of lavender and bergamot. As the violet emerges, its sweet, powdery quality evokes the delicate petals of sacred lotuses floating on temple pools, adding a dreamy, ethereal beauty to the first breath of the fragrance.

As the heart notes unfold, the scent grows richer, more opulent. I am now deep within the perfumed chambers of an ancient Egyptian palace, where the floral intensity of jasmine and rose fills the air. Jasmine’s narcotic sweetness is thick and enveloping, as if plucked from vines draped over sacred altars. 

The rose, rich and velvety, calls to mind offerings to the goddesses, its scent a symbol of both beauty and divine grace. Ylang ylang adds an exotic, tropical lushness, as if carried on warm desert breezes. The delicate notes of lily of the valley rise, like the scent of white flowers woven into the hair of priestesses during sacred rites, lending a fresh yet mysterious purity to the composition.

Hints of sage bring an earthy, herbaceous depth, as if I were walking through the ancient herb gardens used by Egyptian healers and magicians. The scent of cinnamon swirls around me, rich and spicy, reminiscent of the incense burned in temple sanctuaries, its warmth embracing the florals with a sensuous, almost hypnotic allure. 

Leather and animalic notes slink in like the sacred creatures prowling the halls of the pharaohs' courts, their presence commanding attention with their raw, primal energy. The leather is supple and worn, like the hides used to bind sacred scrolls or adorn royal chariots, blending seamlessly with the slightly feral, musky animalic tones that pulse beneath the fragrance, evoking the presence of lions, falcons, and jackals, the sacred animals of ancient Egypt.

As Dawamesk settles into its base, the scent becomes an intoxicating blend of ancient resins and sacred woods. The tonka bean offers a sweet, warm richness that feels as comforting as the heavy robes of a queen, wrapped in luxury. Its deep vanilla-like scent is laced with a slight smokiness, reminiscent of ancient embalming rituals where sacred oils were used to preserve the bodies of pharaohs. 

Oakmoss rises from the depths like the cool, damp air from the crypts of ancient pyramids, adding a slightly earthy, green undertone that grounds the scent in nature. The musk, animalic and sensual, clings to the skin like the soft pelt of a wild creature, evoking the untamed power and mystery of the Egyptian wilderness.

Each note in Dawamesk blooms as if infused with the effects of the cannabis jam from which its name is drawn—a rich, heady intoxication that blurs the line between the physical and spiritual. The warm spices, animalic tones, and floral opulence conjure the effects of ancient potions, used to induce altered states of consciousness in the most sacred rituals. 

It feels as though I’m walking in the footsteps of priests and queens, deep within temple walls where the air is thick with smoke, and the mysteries of life and death hang like whispers in the air. Dawamesk weaves a tapestry of scents that transports me to a world of ancient indulgence, where every inhale is steeped in the magic and mystique of Egypt’s rich history.

Bottles:

Presented in an 8oz ‘Quadrilobe bottle (parfum) and the Noed Papilon bottle, both made by Cristalleries de Baccarat. Also sold in the Amphore flacon (parfum) and the Goutte flacon (eau de toilette).

Fate of the Fragrance:

Dawamesk, a captivating creation by Jacques Guerlain, was eventually discontinued, though the exact date of its disappearance from the market remains uncertain. What is known, however, is that it continued to be sold as late as 1956, long after its initial launch in 1942. The perfume, with its rich oriental fougère composition, resonated deeply with women who sought an exotic and luxurious fragrance, encapsulating the allure of faraway lands and the mystique of ancient traditions.

The decision to discontinue Dawamesk, like many other fragrances of its time, could have been influenced by a variety of factors. Changing tastes in the world of perfumery, the evolution of trends favoring more modern, lighter fragrances, or even the complexities of sourcing some of its rare ingredients may have played a role. Its longevity in the market suggests that it remained beloved for many years, likely appealing to those who cherished the timeless opulence and depth found in its composition.

The continued sale of Dawamesk into the mid-20th century hints at a devoted following, as well as the perfume's enduring relevance in a post-war world. While other fragrances faded away, Dawamesk held onto its legacy, offering women a fragrance that was a sensual escape, deeply rooted in the heritage of oriental scents. Its disappearance from Guerlain's lineup is felt as a loss by those who appreciate its intricate blend of florals, spices, and animalic undertones, which conjured an ancient world of luxury and indulgence. Today, its rarity adds to its mystique, with collectors and fragrance enthusiasts seeking out bottles of Dawamesk as treasured relics of Guerlain’s storied past.