Pour Troubler by Guerlain c1911

Pour Troubler by Guerlain, launched in 1911 and created by Jacques Guerlain, bears a name that is both provocative and evocative. In French, "Pour Troubler" translates to "to disturb" or "to unsettle," pronounced "poor troo-BLAY". The name alone suggests a fragrance designed to stir emotions, break conventions, and leave a lasting impact. The phrase conjures up imagery of subtle disruption, a perfume that doesn't just please but challenges, compelling the wearer and those around her to pause and take notice.

In scent, "Pour Troubler" could be interpreted as a fragrance that disturbs the senses in the most intoxicating way, blending the richness of the Orient with the freshness of fougère elements. As an oriental fougère, it combines warm, spicy, and sweet resins with aromatic, herbal, and fern-like notes—an unusual combination in women’s fragrances at the time. The composition likely played with contrasts, giving the wearer a sense of mystery and allure. The "disturbing" quality could stem from the bold pairing of elements that would traditionally belong in masculine perfumery with a softer, more feminine base, creating a tension between light and dark, freshness and depth.

When Pour Troubler was released in 1911, the world was on the cusp of great social and artistic change. The perfume emerged during a period marked by avant-garde movements like Cubism, which revolutionized the way art was perceived and produced. Cubism, pioneered by artists like Pablo Picasso and Georges Braque, deconstructed objects and scenes into geometric forms, challenging traditional representations of reality. The concept of breaking things down to their essence and rearranging them in unexpected ways could very well have resonated in perfumery as well. Guerlain, always ahead of the curve, might have been inspired by this disruption of artistic norms. The same daring spirit that underpinned Cubism—redefining beauty through fragmentation and reassembly—could explain why Pour Troubler was described as "disturbing." It could be a scent that dismantled traditional ideas of what a feminine fragrance should be, instead offering something bolder, more complex, and modern.

For women of the early 20th century, a perfume named "Pour Troubler" would have been both intriguing and bold. This was a time when women's roles in society were beginning to shift, with increasing freedoms in fashion, work, and social life. Perfume was an important part of self-expression, and something that "disturbed" might have been especially appealing to those eager to break free from societal constraints. The allure of something disquieting, perhaps representing the hidden passions and inner complexities of women, would have resonated deeply.

This unsettling aspect of the perfume, its ability to disrupt the status quo, might also have aligned with the evolving ideas of femininity and modernity. Women of the time were stepping into new roles, and a scent that disturbed, provoked, or intrigued might have echoed the tumultuous yet exciting changes happening in society. The very idea of a "disturbing" perfume could have been a metaphor for the complex, multi-faceted identity that women were beginning to embrace.

In this sense, Pour Troubler likely encapsulated the spirit of its time—a blend of tradition and modernity, art and rebellion, captured in a bottle. Through the lens of Cubism, the perfume could be seen as a challenge to the linear, conventional notion of beauty, much like how Cubism itself challenged the classical ideals of art.

Fragrance Composition:

What does it smell like? It is classified as an oriental fougère fragrance for women.

• Top notes: lavender, anise, bergamot, rosemary
• Middle notes: jasmine, rose, bouvardia, patchouli, opoponax, clove
• Base notes: musk, civet and tonka bean

Marie-Claire, 1937:

"Pour Troubler by Guerlain: subtle. Dominant note: indescribable."

Scent Profile:

As I encounter the opening notes of Pour Troubler, the fragrance begins with the herbal clarity of lavender, a rush of soft, camphorous freshness. Its clean and slightly medicinal character is quickly followed by the sharp sweetness of anise, its licorice-like spiciness swirling through the air, lending the scent an intriguing edge. 

Bergamot joins the composition, adding a citrus brightness that is both zesty and slightly bitter, cutting through the richness of the other notes. A touch of rosemary deepens this herbal opening, its sharp, green aroma bringing an almost earthy, resinous quality to the initial burst. Together, these top notes create an energetic, aromatic bouquet that feels timelessly fresh yet subtly enigmatic.

As the fragrance settles into its heart, I can feel the shift from brightness to warmth. The creamy, sensual jasmine unfurls its petals, its heady, narcotic sweetness tinged with just a hint of indolic richness. Rose, delicate and romantic, weaves its soft, velvety presence around the jasmine, adding a powdery elegance to the composition. 

However, this floral sweetness is tempered by the darker, more intense notes. The earthy depth of patchouli emerges, grounding the floral heart with its mossy, woody richness. Opoponax, a resinous ingredient often known as sweet myrrh, adds a sweet, balsamic warmth, like the smoky incense of an ancient temple. The spicy kick of clove adds a sharp, slightly medicinal edge to the florals, introducing an exotic complexity that keeps the fragrance from becoming too soft or predictable. There is also a hint of bouvardia, a flower that brings a fresh, garden-like aspect to the heart, lifting the deeper, spicier notes with a light floral touch.

As the scent deepens into its base, musk dominates, creating a sensuous warmth that wraps the skin in a soft, animalistic embrace. This is not a clean musk, but rather one tinged with the subtle wildness of civet, which adds a raw, almost primal intensity. It’s rich, slightly dirty, but balanced by the warmth of tonka bean, which lends a creamy, vanilla-like sweetness with hints of almond and tobacco. The tonka bean smooths the animalic aspects of the civet and musk, creating a warm, inviting finish that feels both intimate and lingering.

Pour Troubler, with its herbal, floral, and animalic notes, feels both luxurious and slightly untamed. The blend of sharp herbs, seductive florals, and warm resins creates a composition that evolves intriguingly on the skin, offering a rich, multi-layered experience. It disturbs not in a jarring way, but in how it shifts from fresh to dark, soft to bold, blending these contrasts into a harmonious yet provocative whole.

Bottles:

Presented in the Quadrilobe bottle (parfum), the Goutte bottle (eau de toilette) and the Montre bottle (eau de cologne).

Fate of the Fragrance:

Pour Troubler by Guerlain was discontinued at an unknown date, though it remained available for purchase as late as 1953. Its presence in the market for several decades suggests that it maintained a certain allure and relevance well into the mid-20th century. As an oriental fougère fragrance, it appealed to women who sought something both bold and mysterious, fitting the artistic and cultural shifts of the early 1900s.

By 1953, the perfume’s enduring appeal may have been rooted in its complex blend of floral and animalic notes, capturing the attention of women who still craved the sophistication and daring nature of earlier Guerlain creations. Despite its eventual discontinuation, Pour Troubler carried with it the essence of an era where avant-garde styles and classical refinement merged seamlessly, allowing it to remain in demand long after its initial launch in 1911. The fragrance's disappearance from the market leaves behind a legacy of a perfume that managed to disturb and captivate for over four decades.