Vol de Nuit by Guerlain c1933

Vol de Nuit by Guerlain, launched in 1933 and created by Jacques Guerlain, was inspired by the second novel of famed French aviator and author Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, titled Night Flight (Vol de Nuit in French). The perfume’s name encapsulates the romance, danger, and adventure of the early years of aviation. Saint-Exupéry’s novel is a poignant exploration of the human spirit set against the backdrop of the fledgling airline industry. The book follows the lives of pilots and their courageous night flights through perilous skies, managing the fear of the unknown and the isolation of the skies while navigating the emotional toll of separation from loved ones. It is a meditation on bravery, duty, and love, perfectly mirroring the feelings of soaring through the night, risking life, and reaching for the unreachable. The novel's deep emotional core made it a fitting inspiration for Guerlain to transform into a fragrance.

The word "Vol de Nuit" is French and translates to "Night Flight." Pronounced VOL-DUH-NEWEE, the name evokes images of dark skies, stars glimmering like jewels above a silent earth, and the hum of a plane cutting through the stillness. There is an undeniable sense of intrigue, elegance, and danger—qualities that speak to the allure of nighttime adventures in the early days of aviation. Women wearing this scent could imagine themselves part of this high-flying world, filled with mystery and anticipation. The name alone conjures emotions of excitement, longing, and the rush of exploration, feelings magnified by the glamour and exclusivity of air travel during that era.

As an oriental chypre fragrance, Vol de Nuit captures the essence of the novel’s atmosphere in scent. The fragrance opens with the bright, sharp hesperidic notes of citrus peel oils, reminiscent of the fresh, cool air as a plane ascends into the night sky. Blending seamlessly with these are dry mountain herbs like bay, marjoram, basil, rosemary, mint, and thyme, evoking the rugged landscapes of the world seen from above. The presence of lyre sage and mountain flowers like laurel and lavender lends an air of both untamed nature and tranquil beauty, balancing the more intense elements.

As the fragrance develops, it reveals a heart of florals such as jasmine, orange blossom, violets, narcissus, and roses. These flowers, potent and hypnotic, mirror the novel’s themes of love and tenderness amidst the harshness of flight. Dusty orris root and spices like nutmeg, coriander, and cinnamon add a warmth and richness, reminiscent of the heat of an aircraft’s cabin juxtaposed with the cold night air outside. Finally, the base notes—moss-covered oaks, exotic woods, myrrh, vanilla, and animalic notes of civet, musk, ambergris, and castoreum—are deeply grounding, evoking the earth far below and the primal pull of adventure.

During the 1930s, when Vol de Nuit was launched, aviation was still a relatively new and daring field. Air travel was considered a luxury, a glamorous way to traverse the globe that was accessible only to the privileged few. Women of the time, often caught between traditional roles and the burgeoning liberation of the modern age, would have been drawn to a perfume like Vol de Nuit for its sense of freedom, mystery, and elegance. Wearing the scent would have allowed them to imagine themselves as daring pioneers of modernity, navigating the unknown with grace and confidence.

This period also marked a time when air travel was influencing every aspect of culture, from fashion and art to film and, naturally, perfumery. Aviation-themed movies romanticized pilots and their adventures, while fashion designers like Coco Chanel embraced the sleek, modern aesthetics of the time, mirroring the streamlined designs of aircraft. Perfumes like Vol de Nuit captured the spirit of adventure and independence, appealing to women who yearned for the thrill of escape, exploration, and a break from societal constraints.

The connection between Vol de Nuit and aviation extends beyond its inspiration. Every year, the Air Force College at Salon-de-Provence orders presentation boxes of Vol de Nuit decorated with the emblem of the French Wings. These are distributed by cadets during official visits to other countries, solidifying the perfume’s place as a symbol of aviation history and elegance. This tradition speaks to how deeply intertwined the perfume is with the romanticism of flight, making it not just a fragrance but a testament to an era where air travel signified adventure, innovation, and the triumph of human ingenuity over the unknown.

Original Fragrance Composition:

What does it smell like? It is classified as a oriental chypre fragrance for women.  Blended with the hesperidic aromas of expressed citrus peel oils, are dry mountain herbs: bay, marjoram, basil, rosemary, mint, thyme, and the lyre sage of Provence and flowers of the mountains: laurel, dittany and lavender. The narcotic sorcery of jasmine and orange blossom is tendered by violets, narcissus, roses, dusty orris root heated with the pungency of spices: nutmeg, coriander and cinnamon. Vegetal mossy covered oaks are mixed with the essences of exotic woods, myrrh, vanilla and animalic infusions of civet, musk, precious ambergris and castoreum.

• Top notes: orange, orange blossom, basil, mandarin orange, rosemary, mint, lemon, bergamot, galbanum, Provencal lyreleaf sage and petitgrain
• Middle notes: lavender, wild thyme, dittany, rose, carnation, violet, aldehydes, narcissus, jasmine, daffodil, bay leaf and nutmeg
• Base notes: myrrh, spikenard, civet, cascarilla, castoreum, musk, orris, oakmoss, iris, vanilla, ambergris and sandalwood

Marie-Claire, 1937:

"Vol de Nuit: a delicate, chypre fragrance for the worldly woman. She brings honor to her husband as they step out together, embodying grace and sophistication in every gesture. Elegant and distinguished, she is the epitome of charm—'the captivating Madame X.'"

L'Amour de l'art, 1950:

"This mystical journey hovers above moonlit gardens, where Guerlain, like a magician, has captured the essence of vast open spaces, blending them into a fragrance both soft and vibrant. Its full character comes to life when it touches fur."

Combat, 1955:

"Vol de Nuit (Eau de Cologne Parfumée) by Guerlain is crafted for the most sophisticated city dwellers. It evokes the fireflies of a Mediterranean night, conjuring a potion from the rugged herbs of sun-scorched earth. Lavender, basil, rosemary, mint, bay leaf, and lyreleaf sage from Provence blend with exotic notes of nard, nutmeg, cascarilla, and dittany. Stacte, the essence of myrrh, is mixed with pillolet, the essence of wild thyme, transporting us to the sound of waves lapping against a rock, even behind drawn curtains. Yet the magic of roses, warmed by civet and castoreum, transforms this wild tapestry of brushwood and moss into a regal cloak."

Scent Profile:

As you first encounter Vol de Nuit, the top notes present a vibrant, multi-layered introduction. The fragrance opens with the bright, tangy essence of orange, blending seamlessly with the delicate, sweet aroma of orange blossom. This initial burst is invigorated by the zesty freshness of mandarin orange and lemon, offering a lively, citrusy sparkle. 

As the scent unfolds, the green, herbaceous notes of basil and rosemary emerge, their aromatic sharpness balanced by the cool, refreshing touch of mint. The addition of bergamot introduces a subtle, slightly spicy citrus undertone, while the green, slightly resinous quality of galbanum weaves through, enhancing the fragrance’s complexity. Provencal lyreleaf sage adds a soft, earthy nuance, complemented by the crisp, slightly woody facet of petitgrain.

Transitioning into the heart of the fragrance, the middle notes reveal a rich tapestry of floral and herbal elements. The calming, aromatic scent of lavender mingles with the earthy, herbaceous depth of wild thyme and the complex, almost medicinal quality of dittany. A bouquet of rose and carnation unfurls, their floral richness interlaced with the sweet, powdery touch of violet. 

Aldehydes contribute a sparkling, slightly metallic brightness, while narcissus and jasmine lend a lush, intoxicating floral sweetness. The fresh, green notes of daffodil and bay leaf add a touch of nature’s vitality, further enriched by the warm, spicy nuances of nutmeg.

As the fragrance settles, the base notes reveal a deep, sensual foundation. The warm, resinous scent of myrrh blends with the spicy, woody depth of spikenard, creating an opulent, exotic backdrop. Civet and castoreum introduce a musky, animalic richness, adding a touch of primal allure. The soft, powdery texture of orris and the creamy, comforting essence of vanilla create a luxurious, velvety quality. 

Oakmoss provides a deep, earthy, and slightly damp woodiness, while iris adds a refined, floral elegance. Ambergris imparts a warm, marine depth, and sandalwood rounds out the composition with its smooth, creamy woodiness. This intricate blend weaves together into a fragrance that is both complex and beautifully harmonious, leaving a lasting, sophisticated impression.

 

Bottles:

The fragrance was sold in the Rayonnant flacon (parfum), Goutte flacon (eau de toilette), the Montre flacon (eau de cologne), the Borne flacon (parfum), the Guerre flacon (parfum), the quadrilobe flacon (parfum) and several different spray bottles over the years.

Flacon Rayonnant (Radiance) c1933-1983:

The Vol de Nuit perfume was elegantly encased in the distinctive Rayonnant flacon, a dark, smoky-colored bottle that exudes an aura of sophistication and history. Designed by Baccarat, this flacon was first introduced in 1933 and remained a defining feature of Vol de Nuit until 1983. Its design is particularly notable for its relief that mimics the motion of an aircraft propeller, an homage to the pioneering spirit of aviation and the literary work of Antoine de Saint-Exupéry. The bottle’s sleek, streamlined form captures the essence of flight, reflecting both the era’s fascination with aviation and the thematic elements of Saint-Exupéry’s novel, Night Flight (Vol de Nuit).

The Rayonnant flacon, also known as the Radiance bottle, was not only a vessel for Vol de Nuit but also served to house Sous le Vent. Baccarat’s craftsmanship is evident in the bottle’s rich, smoky green glass, though variations in color, including clear versions, were produced over the years. These bottles were often crafted in limited editions, adding to their exclusivity and allure. For a period, other bottles were produced by Pochet et du Courval, adding further diversity to the flacon’s legacy.

Each bottle’s stylized propeller design is a striking tribute to the dynamic movement of aircraft, making the Rayonnant flacon a symbol of both elegance and innovation. Its design encapsulates the spirit of adventure and modernity that defined the era, while also serving as a timeless reminder of the perfume’s enduring legacy.

Baccarat:

• 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - (limited edition of only 8000 single copies) 

Pochet et du Courval:

• 10cc/10ml/0.388 oz - 5.3cm/2.09 (1954) changed to 7.5ml/0.25 oz (1962-1981) 
• 20cc/20ml/0.676 oz - 6.6cm/2.6" (1955) changed to 15ml/0.5 oz (1962-1980) 
• 30cc/30ml/1 oz - 7.2cm/2.83" (1934) 
• 40cc/40ml/1.35 oz (1937-1950) 
• 60cc/60ml/2 oz- 8.6cm/3.39" (thickness 2.7cm/1.06", width 6.7cm/2.64") (1962) changed to 55ml/1.86 oz - 8.5cm/3.35" (1977-1983) 
• 82cc/82ml/2.77 oz - 8.5cm/3.35" (thickness 3.1cm/1.22", width 6.9cm/2.72") (1932-1963) 
• 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz - 9.5cm/3.74" (1933) changed to 125ml/125ml/4.2 oz - 9.8/3.86"cm (1979-1984) 
• 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz - 11.8cm/4.65" (1933)

Flacon Bouchon Quadrilobe (Quatrefoil Stopper) c1908-Present:

Flacon quadrilobe was made by five different glass manufacturers: Baccarat, Pochet et du Courval, St Gobain Desjonqueres, Cristalleries de Nancy, Cristal Romesnil, Verreries Brosse, and BSN-GD Flaconnage to hold extraits for various perfumes. Some later bottles hold eaux de toilette or eaux de parfum. Baccarat flacon #24. Created in 1908 for the fragrance Rue de la Paix and has been used since as the ‘house bottle’. The labels known as ‘etiquette laurier’ because of the laurel leaf borders, except for the perfume Coque D’Or, Dawamesk, Liu and Fleur de Feu which show a more 'modernist' design. The Vol de Nuit bottles had the metal "Vol de Nuit" name in a circle logo on Baccarat bottles only, Laurier cream labels (with 80% alcohol volume percentage) in 1984, blue labels in 1986 to 1996, and Laurier labels with uppercase lettering from 1986 to 1994. As you can see, these label usages overlap. 

Since the bottle shape has been used for many decades, the various glassworks needed to modify their original moulds, including the bottle itself and the stopper. One should remember that with the change from ground glass stoppers to ones with the plastic plugs (plastemeri) - this automatically altered the overall capacity and size of the bottles. Atlas & Monniot in their book, mentioned that it would be "unreasonable" to list all the numerous changes that took place with these alterations. They state that "an original mould may have been modified up to five times for a bottle of the same capacity with only slight differences in the size."

Pochet et du Courval used six moulds:

• 10cc/10ml/0.338 oz - (mould #13613, from 1924) ground glass stopper, changed to plastic in 1962
• 10cc/10ml (mould #17077, from 1954) - ground glass stopper
• 20cc/20ml/0.676 oz (mould# 17529, from 1951) - ground glass stopper
• 40cc/40ml/1.35 oz - (mould#17275, from 1949) - ground glass stopper
• 60cc/60ml/2 oz - (mould#19106, from 1962) - ground glass stopper, changed to plastic stopper
• 125ml/4.2oz - (mould#22120, from 1978) - crystal plastic stopper

Other manufacturers:

• 7,5ml/1.25 oz - 5cm/1.97" (1980) : plastic stopper 
• 10cc/10ml/0.338 oz - (1924) ground glass stopper, changed to plastic in 1962
• 10cc/10ml/0.338 oz - 5,6cm/2.2" (1954) : ground glass stopper 
• 15ml/0.5 oz - 6,3cm/2.48" (1979) : plastic stopper 
• 20cc/20ml/0.676 oz - 7cm/2.76" (1951) : ground glass stopper 
• 30cc/30ml/1 oz - 8cm/3.15" (1924) : ground glass stopper changed to updated edition plus plastic stopper in 1962 
• 40cc/40ml/1.35 oz - 8,5cm/3.35" (1949) : ground glass stopper 
• 60cc/60ml/2 oz - 9,5cm/3.74" (1962) : ground glass stopper, changed to plastic stopper 
• 80ml/2.7 oz - 9,7cm/3.82" 
• 125ml/4.2 oz - 11,5cm/4.53" (1978) : plastic stopper 
• 250ml/8.4 oz - 13,8cm/5.43" (1979) : plastic stopper 
• 500ml/16.9 oz - 17cm/6.69" (1979) : plastic stopper 
• 1 liter/1000ml - 22,5cm/8.86" (1979) : plastic stopper

Flacon Petit Beurre (Little Butter Pat) with Fountain Labels c1933-1939:

The Silver Fountain labels represent the fountains at the 1925 Art Deco Expo in Paris, they were used in 1926 in anticipation of the 100th anniversary of the founding of Guerlain in 1928. The perfumes were boxed in a blue and silver box and the perfumes were presented in a clear glass bottle called the "petit beurre" or little butter pat. Vol de Nuit didn't enter the line until 1933. The bottle and packaging design was discontinued in 1939.

Limited edition flacon created by Baccarat and Pochet et du Courval. Housed various Guerlain fragrances such as L'Heure Bleue, Mitsouko, Rue de la Paix, Candide Effluve, A Travers Champs, Fol Arome, Quand Vient L'Ete , Kadine, Guerlinade, Une Rose, Pour Troubler, Vague Souvenir and Champs Elysees. 

Baccarat:

• 40cc/40ml/1.35 oz - 7.7cm/3.03" (limited edition of only 500 in 1916)
• 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - (limited edition of only 500 in 1916)

Pochet et du Courval:

• 20ml/0.676 oz - 5.5cm/2.17" (1929)

Flacon Lanterne (Lantern) c1935-1943:

Flacon created by Pochet et du Courval to hold extraits of Jicky, Rue de la Paix, Cuir de Russie, Jasmine, Sous le Vent, and others. The bottle was reissued in 1999 to hold a limited edition extrait of Guet Apens.

• 10cc/10ml/0.338 oz - 5.4cm/2.13" (size reserved for export) 
• 30cc/30ml/1 oz - 7.3cm/2.87" (size reserved for export) 
• 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - 9.7cm/3.82" (1935-1943) 
• 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz - 11.5cm/4.53" (reissued in 1999 125ml/4.2 oz - 12cm/4.72" for Guet Apens) 
• 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz - 14cm/5.51" (1935-1943)

Flacon de Guerre (War Time Edition) c1938-1945:

 

Pochet et du Courval created this bottle to house extraits of Shalimar, Jicky, Guerlinade, Fleur de Feu, Mitsouko, L'Heure Bleue, Liu, Kadine, Verveine,Vague Souvenir, Champs Elysees,  Geranium d'Espagne, Jasmiralda, Lilas, Bouquet de Faunes, Guerlilas, Gavotte, Coque d'Or, Imperial Russe, Fleur Qui Meurt, Gardenia,  and others.

• 10cc/10ml/0.388 oz (1939-1945) 
• 20cc/20ml/0.676 oz (1939-1945) 
• 30cc/30ml/1 oz (1938-1945) 
• 40cc/40ml/1.35 oz (1938-1945) 
• 82cc/82ml/2.77 oz - 10,3cm/4.06" (1938-1945) 
• 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz (1938-1945) 
• 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz (1938-1945) 
• 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz (1938-1945)'

Flacon Amphore (Amphora) c1955-1982:

Used for extraits of Ode, Shalimar, Chant D'Aromes, Liu, Jicky, L'Heure Bleue, Mitsouko, Muguet, Chamade, Sous le Vent, Vol de Nuit, Une Fleur. Bottle made by both Baccarat and Pochet et du Courval.

Baccarat Flacons:

• 40cc/40ml/1.35 oz - 14,5cm/5.71" (1955) 
• 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - 18,3cm/7.2" (1955) 

Pochet et du Courval:

• 15cc/15ml/0.5 oz - 11.5cm/4.53" (1959) ground glass rosebud shaped stopper, changed to plastic rosebud screwcap in 1978. 
• 20cc/20ml/0.676 oz - 11.5cm/4.53" (1955): gilt ground glass rosebud stopper

Flacon de Sac (Purse Bottle) /Parapluie Flacon (Umbrella Bottle) c1952-1978:

A purse vial made by various glass manufacturers: Pochet et du Courval, Brosse and Saint Gobains Desjonqueres, (1952-1978). The first presentations were encased in boxes which coordinated with the perfume's name and style. Later presentations omit the box and the flacon is housed inside of a leather case.

Bottle held extraits of Shalimar, Ode, L'Heure Bleue, Mitsouko, Jasmin, Vega, Jicky, Sous le Vent, Chant D'Aromes, Chamade, Vol de Nuit, Liu and possibly more:

• 7cc/7ml/0.237 oz - 7.8cm/3.07

Flacon Montre (Watch) c1936 - 1999

Flacon created by Pochet et du Courval to hold eaux de cologne, first used with Cachet Jaune in 1936, also held various other scents such as Shalimar, Mitsouko, Jicky, Fol Arome, Chamade, Chant D'Aromes, Liu, L'Heure Bleue, Vol de Nuit, Sous Le Vent, Chypre 53, Parure and more.

• 50cc/50ml/1.7 oz - 11cm/4.33" (1936-1950) 
• 64cc/64ml/2.16 oz - 12.5cm/4.92" (1972-1979) changed 60ml 
• 100cc/100ml/3.4 oz - 14.6cm/5.75" (1936-1999) 
• 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz - 16cm/6.3" (1960-1972) 
• 200cc/200ml/6.7 oz - 18.5cm/7.28" (1936-1999) 
• 400cc/400ml/13.5 oz -9.5" (1936-1972) 
• 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz - 24.3cm/9.57" (1936) 
• 1 liter/1000ml - 30cm/11.81" (1936) 
• 2 liter/2000ml - 37.5cm/14.75" (1970) 
• 3 liter/3000ml - 42cm/16.54" (1979) 

Stoppers:

• 1936-1972: ground glass stopper 
• 1972-1979: gold screw-cap stopper 
• 1979-1999: plastic stopper 

Flacon Goutte (Teardrop) c1923-2001:

Bottle created by Pochet et du Courval to hold eaux de toilette only. Bottle also made by different manufacturers over the years. Created as the standard Eau de Toilette presentation. The frosted glass stopper is made of two cockle shells; the label depicts two dolphins known as ‘Etiquette Dauphin’. 

Different manufacturers:

• 50cc/50ml/1.7 oz - 8 to 9cm/3.15" to 3.54" (1973) replaced by 50ml - 8.9 cm (1983-1988) 
• 100cc/100ml/3.4 oz - 12 to 13cm/4.72" to 5.12" (1938) replaced by 100ml - 12.5 cm (1983-1994) 
• 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz - 16 to 17cm/6.3" to 6.69" (1923) replaced by 250ml - 16.8 cm (1983-1995) 
• 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz - 20 to 21cm/7.87" to 8.27" (1923-2001) 
• 1 liter - 25 to 26cm/9.84" to 10.24" (1923-1999) 

Stoppers:

• 1923-1973: ground glass 
• 1973-1980: glass with plastic dowel 
• 1980-1987: gilded glass with screw on plastic dowel 
• 1987-2002: glass with plastic dowel 

Labels:

• 1923-1979: newsprint dolphin label 
• 1980-1987: black and gold oval label 
• 1987-2001: no label, silkscreened serigraphy on bottle instead

Flacon Carre Bas de Forme (Low Square Form) c1933-1939

Bottle made by Pochet et du Courval to hold eaux de toilette, eaux de cologne and lotion vegetal in various scents.

• 130cc/130ml/4.4 oz - 15cm/5.91"
• 332cc/332ml/11.23 oz - 19,5cm/7.68"
• 500cc/500ml/16.9 oz - 23cm/9.06"
• 1000cc/1 liter - 28cm/11.02"

With or without Femme Drapeaux (woman flags emblem) on reverse

• 3 different stoppers: truncated, flat disk, and ball, (from 1924 for 16.9 oz and 1 liter)

Flacon Capsule c1933-1971:

Pochet & Du Courval created this bottle to hold Lotion Vegetale in various scents, such as L'Heure Bleue, Jicky, Shalimar, Mitsouko, Chant D'Aromes and others. Lotion Vegetale was a hair dressing created in 1900; this presentation was launched in 1920.

• 250ml/8.4 oz- 14,5cm/5.71" ground glass stopper with metal capsule flacon, discontinued in 1955 
• 250ml/8.4 oz - 12-13cm/4.72" -5.2" - (1955) new size and with screw cap 
• Newspaper type label from 1920-1966 
• Oval label used from 1966 to 1971

Stilboide Flacon 1922-1950s:

Stilboide Fluide was a liquid hair groom and beard groom scented with various Guerlain fragrances over the years. It was also made "to maintain the curl of the so-called English papillotes." Papillotes was paper that was used to curl the hair, and thus the curly hair obtained with this method is known as "papillotes."

 Stilboide Fluid is similar to brilliantine and was mainly an alcohol mixture scented with perfume oils. You might come across these today and notice that the contents have separated leaving the alcohol mixture at the bottom of the bottle while the scented oils rose to the top of the bottle.

The bottles were first introduced in 1922. They were made by Pochet et du Courval. Two sizes:

• 60ml bottle stands 4.17" tall.
• 120ml bottle stands 5.31" tall.

Talcum "Lyre" Poudreur Flacons c1922-1980s:

Beautiful frosted glass talcum powder bottles were in the shape of a lyre or guitar. they held six scents: Shalimar, Mitsouko, Vol de Nuit, Liu, Fleur de Feu and L'Heure Bleue. Talcum powder in the frosted bottle was introduced in 1922, it was being put up in a white plastic canister in the late 1960s, then it was sold in a turquoise canister in the 1980s.

Habit de Fete Refillable Atomizers c1997- present:

As the millennium approached, Guerlain wanted a fresh, modern look for some of its bottles, and introduced the Habit de Fete limited edition bottles in 1997. These bottles are an updated version of it's classic refillable styles, but come in three different sizes. The bottles are a thick gold tone studded with silvery dots. Refills for these bottles can be found at the Guerlain counters or purchased online.

Gold Refillable Atomizers c1981-1989:

In 1981-1982, a limited edition gold tone cylindrical bottle with a lattice pattern was offered with a glass spray bottle, which could be replaced with a new refill when finished. These gold bottles hosted all Guerlain eau de toilette fragrances at one point between 1981 and 1989.

Limited Edition Eau de Toilette c1984-1987:

Limited edition 1 oz eau de toilette spray. This bottle was also used for a limited edition eau de cologne in the same year.

Parfum Atomizer c1987:

Gold colored box with an embossed zig zag pattern and gilded frame surrounded the perfume name and information. Bottle is fluted and has a wide gold tone cap. Purse bottle holds 1/4 oz of parfum. This is an unusual presentation and is not commonly seen up for sale.

Delft Style Refillable Atomizers c1968-1981:

The 1960s ushered in a new spray bottle for the eau de toilette. This cylindrical metal bottle housed a 3fl oz glass spray vial which could be replaced with a new refill when finished. The metal bottle was enameled with blue and white Oriental designs. This copyrighted design was launched in 1968. Other scents were packaged in similar looking enameled cases.

Gold Refillable Atomizers c1981-1989:

In the 1980s, gold purse sprays were available for all scents and the original bottle got a modern makeover and now came with a plastic cap and spray nozzle. Notice the openworked lattice pattern. The original bottle continued to be made, but for the Parfum only.

Natural Spray Cologne Flacons  c1967-1977:

These bottles were meant to hold eau de colognes of Guerlain's standard perfumes: Shalimar, L'Heure Bleue, Mitsouko, Vol de Nuit, Chamade, Liu and Chant D'Aromes. The bottles were probably made by either SGD or Pochet et du Courval. They are ribbed and look a little like the parapluie bottles, but have a black spray mechanism at the top, the name of the perfume is usually written in gold on a black band just below the cap, there is also a label on the base of the bottle. The bottle has a gold tone cap over the spray nozzle, it had a black plastic disk imprinted with a G for Guerlain on the top, this bottle was packaged in the same black and white boxes as some of the Montre bottles.

Flacon Abeilles (Bees) - c1828 - Present:

Used for eaux de cologne and eaux de toilette. Made by Pochet et du Courval. Originally created to house 'Eau de Cologne Impériale' for the Empress Eugenie, wife of Napoleon III; its decorative bees were a symbol of Napoleon and have since then, become Guerlain’s house symbol. You could get your bee bottle personalized with your monogram or the bees painted with gilded enamel.

• 125cc/125 ml/4.23 oz - 14 cm/5.15" (1947), ground ball stopper, then changed to plastic in 1982 
• 250cc/250 ml/8.4 oz - 16 cm/6.3" (1947), ground ball stopper, then changed to plastic in 1982 
• 500cc/500 ml/16.9 oz - 20 cm/7.87" (1947), ground ball stopper, then changed to plastic in 1982 
• 1 liter/1000 ml - 23,5 cm/4.3"-9.25" (1853), truncated ground stopper, then changed to ball shape in 1947 
• 2 liter/2000 ml - 31cm/8.27"-12.2" (1920), truncated ground stopper, then changed to ball shape in 1947 
• In 1962, a cobalt prototype or limited edition was released, only for that year. 

In the late 1990s, a spray version was introduced. Rather than being round, the bottles have an elongated shape. Notice the label on the spray bottle on the right, this started to be used around 2010.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Vol de Nuit remains a cornerstone of Guerlain's legacy, continuing to enchant wearers today, despite undergoing several reformulations over the years. These changes were necessary due to evolving IFRA (International Fragrance Association) regulations, which aim to ensure the safety of perfume ingredients. Many of the original raw materials used in the 1933 formula, particularly those from natural sources, have been either restricted or replaced due to potential allergenic or environmental concerns.

In spite of these modifications, the spirit of Vol de Nuit endures. Guerlain has carefully reorchestrated the fragrance to stay as close as possible to Jacques Guerlain's original vision. Modern ingredients have been seamlessly blended to replicate the olfactory experience of the fragrance’s iconic composition. The aldehydic opening, once rich with vibrant citrus oils, has been subtly softened, yet the bright interplay of bergamot, orange, and galbanum still captures the initial energy of the scent. The middle notes retain their floral radiance, with jasmine, narcissus, and violet providing the heart of the fragrance, though some natural elements may now be derived from safe synthetic substitutes.

Where changes are most evident is in the base, where oakmoss—a key element in the original formula—has been significantly reduced due to regulatory concerns. While oakmoss now plays a more subtle role, it has been expertly balanced with other earthy and woody notes, preserving the mossy, forest-like allure that made Vol de Nuit such a revered classic. Sandalwood, spices, and the ever-present vanilla provide a warmth and richness, ensuring the perfume retains its characteristic depth and sensuality.

Though reformulated, Vol de Nuit continues to evoke the same imagery and emotions it has for nearly a century—a fragrance that captures the daring, elegance, and mystery of a journey through the night sky. Through the artistry of modern perfumery, Guerlain has ensured that Vol de Nuit remains a timeless masterpiece, connecting past and present with the same luminous and darkly romantic essence.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a woody fragrance for women.

• Top notes: orange, orange blossom, galbanum, mandarin orange, bergamot, narcissus, lemon
• Middle notes: aldehydes, iris, narcissus, vanilla, violet, Indonesian carnation, jasmine, rose
• Base notes: spices, sandalwood, musk, orris root, oakmoss

Scent Profile:

As I begin to experience Vol de Nuit, the first impression is a sparkling citrus accord that opens the senses like a burst of light in the night sky. The bright and zesty tang of orange is immediately noticeable, sharp and sweet, giving way to the more delicate, floral warmth of orange blossom. A green, resinous quality comes forward, thanks to galbanum, grounding the brightness with an earthy, balsamic sharpness that evokes fresh-cut stems. 

The sweetness of mandarin orange brings a juicy softness, while bergamot and lemon add an effervescent sharpness, lifting the initial notes into the air. As this citrus bouquet fades, a rich, velvety whisper of narcissus weaves through, its heady floral scent just faintly tinged with a narcotic depth, introducing a hint of mystery.

As the heart notes emerge, the fragrance deepens into a more complex floral arrangement. The aldehydes bring a soapy, effervescent quality, like cool air on an evening breeze, lending an almost ethereal feel to the blend. The creamy, powdery essence of iris follows, unfolding in a soft, velvety texture that mingles beautifully with the floral brightness of violet. 

The narcotic quality of narcissus persists, now interwoven with the lush richness of Indonesian carnation, which adds a hint of spicy warmth. The familiar sweetness of vanilla begins to emerge, wrapping around the florals like a delicate blanket, smoothing their sharper edges. Jasmine and rose bring timeless beauty and femininity, blending their heady sweetness into the heart of the fragrance.

As the fragrance begins to settle, the base notes reveal their deeper, more grounded facets. A whisper of spices lingers in the background, subtle yet evocative, adding an exotic warmth to the dry-down. The creamy softness of sandalwood lends a smooth, woody texture, while musk envelops the composition in a soft, almost skin-like warmth. The powdery nature of orris root continues the velvety thread from the heart notes, blending seamlessly with the lingering floral elements. 

Oakmoss anchors everything with its deep, mossy quality, creating a sense of earthiness and grounded mystery, like a forest floor bathed in moonlight. Together, these notes create a feeling of depth, sensuality, and timeless allure, evoking the sensation of taking flight through the night, enveloped in the stillness and quiet beauty of the darkened sky.

Bottle:

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