Vol de Nuit by Guerlain c1933

Vol de Nuit by Guerlain, launched in 1933 and created by Jacques Guerlain, was inspired by the second novel of famed French aviator and author Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, titled Night Flight (Vol de Nuit in French). The perfume’s name encapsulates the romance, danger, and adventure of the early years of aviation. Saint-Exupéry’s novel is a poignant exploration of the human spirit set against the backdrop of the fledgling airline industry. The book follows the lives of pilots and their courageous night flights through perilous skies, managing the fear of the unknown and the isolation of the skies while navigating the emotional toll of separation from loved ones. It is a meditation on bravery, duty, and love, perfectly mirroring the feelings of soaring through the night, risking life, and reaching for the unreachable. The novel's deep emotional core made it a fitting inspiration for Guerlain to transform into a fragrance.

The word "Vol de Nuit" is French and translates to "Night Flight." Pronounced VOL-DUH-NEWEE, the name evokes images of dark skies, stars glimmering like jewels above a silent earth, and the hum of a plane cutting through the stillness. There is an undeniable sense of intrigue, elegance, and danger—qualities that speak to the allure of nighttime adventures in the early days of aviation. Women wearing this scent could imagine themselves part of this high-flying world, filled with mystery and anticipation. The name alone conjures emotions of excitement, longing, and the rush of exploration, feelings magnified by the glamour and exclusivity of air travel during that era.

As an oriental chypre fragrance, Vol de Nuit captures the essence of the novel’s atmosphere in scent. The fragrance opens with the bright, sharp hesperidic notes of citrus peel oils, reminiscent of the fresh, cool air as a plane ascends into the night sky. Blending seamlessly with these are dry mountain herbs like bay, marjoram, basil, rosemary, mint, and thyme, evoking the rugged landscapes of the world seen from above. The presence of lyre sage and mountain flowers like laurel and lavender lends an air of both untamed nature and tranquil beauty, balancing the more intense elements.

As the fragrance develops, it reveals a heart of florals such as jasmine, orange blossom, violets, narcissus, and roses. These flowers, potent and hypnotic, mirror the novel’s themes of love and tenderness amidst the harshness of flight. Dusty orris root and spices like nutmeg, coriander, and cinnamon add a warmth and richness, reminiscent of the heat of an aircraft’s cabin juxtaposed with the cold night air outside. Finally, the base notes—moss-covered oaks, exotic woods, myrrh, vanilla, and animalic notes of civet, musk, ambergris, and castoreum—are deeply grounding, evoking the earth far below and the primal pull of adventure.

During the 1930s, when Vol de Nuit was launched, aviation was still a relatively new and daring field. Air travel was considered a luxury, a glamorous way to traverse the globe that was accessible only to the privileged few. Women of the time, often caught between traditional roles and the burgeoning liberation of the modern age, would have been drawn to a perfume like Vol de Nuit for its sense of freedom, mystery, and elegance. Wearing the scent would have allowed them to imagine themselves as daring pioneers of modernity, navigating the unknown with grace and confidence.

This period also marked a time when air travel was influencing every aspect of culture, from fashion and art to film and, naturally, perfumery. Aviation-themed movies romanticized pilots and their adventures, while fashion designers like Coco Chanel embraced the sleek, modern aesthetics of the time, mirroring the streamlined designs of aircraft. Perfumes like Vol de Nuit captured the spirit of adventure and independence, appealing to women who yearned for the thrill of escape, exploration, and a break from societal constraints.

The connection between Vol de Nuit and aviation extends beyond its inspiration. Every year, the Air Force College at Salon-de-Provence orders presentation boxes of Vol de Nuit decorated with the emblem of the French Wings. These are distributed by cadets during official visits to other countries, solidifying the perfume’s place as a symbol of aviation history and elegance. This tradition speaks to how deeply intertwined the perfume is with the romanticism of flight, making it not just a fragrance but a testament to an era where air travel signified adventure, innovation, and the triumph of human ingenuity over the unknown.

Original Fragrance Composition:

What does it smell like? It is classified as a oriental chypre fragrance for women.  Blended with the hesperidic aromas of expressed citrus peel oils, are dry mountain herbs: bay, marjoram, basil, rosemary, mint, thyme, and the lyre sage of Provence and flowers of the mountains: laurel, dittany and lavender. The narcotic sorcery of jasmine and orange blossom is tendered by violets, narcissus, roses, dusty orris root heated with the pungency of spices: nutmeg, coriander and cinnamon. Vegetal mossy covered oaks are mixed with the essences of exotic woods, myrrh, vanilla and animalic infusions of civet, musk, precious ambergris and castoreum.

• Top notes: orange, orange blossom, basil, mandarin orange, rosemary, mint, lemon, bergamot, galbanum, Provencal lyreleaf sage and petitgrain
• Middle notes: lavender, wild thyme, dittany, rose, carnation, violet, aldehydes, narcissus, jasmine, daffodil, bay leaf and nutmeg
• Base notes: myrrh, spikenard, civet, cascarilla, castoreum, musk, orris, oakmoss, iris, vanilla, ambergris and sandalwood

Marie-Claire, 1937:

"Vol de Nuit: a delicate, chypre fragrance for the worldly woman. She brings honor to her husband as they step out together, embodying grace and sophistication in every gesture. Elegant and distinguished, she is the epitome of charm—'the captivating Madame X.'"

L'Amour de l'art, 1950:

"This mystical journey hovers above moonlit gardens, where Guerlain, like a magician, has captured the essence of vast open spaces, blending them into a fragrance both soft and vibrant. Its full character comes to life when it touches fur."

Combat, 1955:

"Vol de Nuit (Eau de Cologne Parfumée) by Guerlain is crafted for the most sophisticated city dwellers. It evokes the fireflies of a Mediterranean night, conjuring a potion from the rugged herbs of sun-scorched earth. Lavender, basil, rosemary, mint, bay leaf, and lyreleaf sage from Provence blend with exotic notes of nard, nutmeg, cascarilla, and dittany. Stacte, the essence of myrrh, is mixed with pillolet, the essence of wild thyme, transporting us to the sound of waves lapping against a rock, even behind drawn curtains. Yet the magic of roses, warmed by civet and castoreum, transforms this wild tapestry of brushwood and moss into a regal cloak."

Scent Profile:

As you first encounter Vol de Nuit, the top notes present a vibrant, multi-layered introduction. The fragrance opens with the bright, tangy essence of orange, blending seamlessly with the delicate, sweet aroma of orange blossom. This initial burst is invigorated by the zesty freshness of mandarin orange and lemon, offering a lively, citrusy sparkle. 

As the scent unfolds, the green, herbaceous notes of basil and rosemary emerge, their aromatic sharpness balanced by the cool, refreshing touch of mint. The addition of bergamot introduces a subtle, slightly spicy citrus undertone, while the green, slightly resinous quality of galbanum weaves through, enhancing the fragrance’s complexity. Provencal lyreleaf sage adds a soft, earthy nuance, complemented by the crisp, slightly woody facet of petitgrain.

Transitioning into the heart of the fragrance, the middle notes reveal a rich tapestry of floral and herbal elements. The calming, aromatic scent of lavender mingles with the earthy, herbaceous depth of wild thyme and the complex, almost medicinal quality of dittany. A bouquet of rose and carnation unfurls, their floral richness interlaced with the sweet, powdery touch of violet. 

Aldehydes contribute a sparkling, slightly metallic brightness, while narcissus and jasmine lend a lush, intoxicating floral sweetness. The fresh, green notes of daffodil and bay leaf add a touch of nature’s vitality, further enriched by the warm, spicy nuances of nutmeg.

As the fragrance settles, the base notes reveal a deep, sensual foundation. The warm, resinous scent of myrrh blends with the spicy, woody depth of spikenard, creating an opulent, exotic backdrop. Civet and castoreum introduce a musky, animalic richness, adding a touch of primal allure. The soft, powdery texture of orris and the creamy, comforting essence of vanilla create a luxurious, velvety quality. 

Oakmoss provides a deep, earthy, and slightly damp woodiness, while iris adds a refined, floral elegance. Ambergris imparts a warm, marine depth, and sandalwood rounds out the composition with its smooth, creamy woodiness. This intricate blend weaves together into a fragrance that is both complex and beautifully harmonious, leaving a lasting, sophisticated impression.

 

Bottles:

The fragrance was sold in the Rayonnant flacon (parfum), Goutte flacon (eau de toilette), the Montre flacon (eau de cologne), the Borne flacon (parfum), the Guerre flacon (parfum), the quadrilobe flacon (parfum) and several different spray bottles over the years.

Flacon Rayonnant (Radiance) c1933-1983:

The Vol de Nuit perfume was elegantly encased in the distinctive Rayonnant flacon, a dark, smoky-colored bottle that exudes an aura of sophistication and history. Designed by Baccarat, this flacon was first introduced in 1933 and remained a defining feature of Vol de Nuit until 1983. Its design is particularly notable for its relief that mimics the motion of an aircraft propeller, an homage to the pioneering spirit of aviation and the literary work of Antoine de Saint-Exupéry. The bottle’s sleek, streamlined form captures the essence of flight, reflecting both the era’s fascination with aviation and the thematic elements of Saint-Exupéry’s novel, Night Flight (Vol de Nuit).

The Rayonnant flacon, also known as the Radiance bottle, was not only a vessel for Vol de Nuit but also served to house Sous le Vent. Baccarat’s craftsmanship is evident in the bottle’s rich, smoky green glass, though variations in color, including clear versions, were produced over the years. These bottles were often crafted in limited editions, adding to their exclusivity and allure. For a period, other bottles were produced by Pochet et du Courval, adding further diversity to the flacon’s legacy.

Each bottle’s stylized propeller design is a striking tribute to the dynamic movement of aircraft, making the Rayonnant flacon a symbol of both elegance and innovation. Its design encapsulates the spirit of adventure and modernity that defined the era, while also serving as a timeless reminder of the perfume’s enduring legacy.

Baccarat:

• 80cc/80ml/2.7 oz - (limited edition of only 8000 single copies) 

Pochet et du Courval:

• 10cc/10ml/0.388 oz - 5.3cm/2.09 (1954) changed to 7.5ml/0.25 oz (1962-1981) 
• 20cc/20ml/0.676 oz - 6.6cm/2.6" (1955) changed to 15ml/0.5 oz (1962-1980) 
• 30cc/30ml/1 oz - 7.2cm/2.83" (1934) 
• 40cc/40ml/1.35 oz (1937-1950) 
• 60cc/60ml/2 oz- 8.6cm/3.39" (thickness 2.7cm/1.06", width 6.7cm/2.64") (1962) changed to 55ml/1.86 oz - 8.5cm/3.35" (1977-1983) 
• 82cc/82ml/2.77 oz - 8.5cm/3.35" (thickness 3.1cm/1.22", width 6.9cm/2.72") (1932-1963) 
• 125cc/125ml/4.2 oz - 9.5cm/3.74" (1933) changed to 125ml/125ml/4.2 oz - 9.8/3.86"cm (1979-1984) 
• 250cc/250ml/8.4 oz - 11.8cm/4.65" (1933)

Fate of the Fragrance:

The perfume is still sold today.

Reformulated version:
It is classified as a woody fragrance for women.

• Top notes: orange, orange blossom, galbanum, mandarin orange, bergamot, narcissus, lemon
• Middle notes: aldehydes, iris, narcissus, vanilla, violet, Indonesian carnation, jasmine, rose
• Base notes: spices, sandalwood, musk, orris root, oakmoss

Photos from rubylane,ebay, luvparfum and other sources online.