Apres L'Ondee by Guerlain c1906

Après L'Ondée by Guerlain, launched in 1906 and created by Jacques Guerlain, is a poetic and evocative name that perfectly reflects the inspiration behind the fragrance. In French, "Après L'Ondée" translates to "After the Shower" or "After the Rain," capturing the delicate and fleeting moment when the rain has passed, and nature begins to stir again under the warmth of the sun. Pronounced "AHPRAY-LUNDAY," the name itself conjures a sense of tranquility and renewal, a moment of peace after the storm. Jacques Guerlain, known for his love of nature and the emotional landscapes it evokes, likely chose this name to encapsulate the gentle beauty of a spring garden refreshed by rain—a theme of renewal, rebirth, and the fleeting beauty of life.

The phrase "Après L'Ondée" brings to mind soft images of a misty garden, where drops of rain still cling to flower petals and leaves, and the air is filled with the scent of wet earth, damp grass, and blooming flowers. It evokes a calm, reflective mood—perhaps a sense of nostalgia or longing—creating an atmosphere that is both serene and wistful. The perfume was inspired by the smell of nature after a spring rain, known as petrichor, and blends this natural scent with the warmth of flowers that have been gently kissed by the sun. The name itself stirs up emotions of freshness, purity, and a delicate sense of melancholy, capturing the beauty of transitory moments in nature and life.

In scent, Après L'Ondée is interpreted as soft, powdery, and floral, reflecting the freshness of a garden after a rain shower. Based on the formula for Voilette de Madame, it combines violet, iris, and heliotrope with hints of warm spice and subtle earthiness, representing the interplay between rain-drenched flowers and the return of sunshine. The fragrance evokes the clean, crisp smell of the air, touched with a light sweetness from the blooming flowers and a gentle warmth from the earth beneath. It captures both the freshness of rain and the comforting warmth that follows, creating a fragrance that feels ethereal yet grounded.

For women in the early 1900s, a perfume called Après L'Ondée would have likely evoked a romantic and poetic sentiment. This was a period of optimism and refinement, at the height of the Belle Époque, where art, culture, and beauty flourished. Women of the time were becoming more engaged with the emerging modern world, but they also held onto ideals of grace, nature, and beauty. A fragrance that drew from the imagery of nature and the beauty of a post-rain garden would have resonated with their desire for elegance, refinement, and emotional expression. The softness and naturalistic inspiration behind the fragrance would appeal to their appreciation for art, poetry, and the symbolic beauty of fleeting moments in life.

Launched in 1906, Après L'Ondée emerged at a time when Europe was undergoing significant social and cultural changes. The Belle Époque era was marked by artistic innovation, technological advancements, and a general sense of optimism and luxury. The fragrance fit perfectly into this context, as women began to use perfume not only as a symbol of status but as a means of personal expression. The subtle beauty and gentle complexity of Après L'Ondée reflected the sophistication and sensitivity of the time, offering a romantic, nature-inspired escape from the increasing pace of modern life. Its connection to the cycles of nature and the poetic beauty of rain would have felt timeless and reassuring, especially in an era that cherished art, beauty, and the refined pleasures of life.

Original Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a powdery floral fragrance for women with spicy and musk notes.

• Top notes: oleander,  rosemary, hawthorn, seringa, bergamot, lavender, wisteria, thyme, raspberry
• Middle notes: heliotrope, peony, jasmine, lily, orchid, orange blossom, violet, bouvardia
• Base notes: vanilla, almond, laurel, orris and Tonkin musk

 

Marie-Claire, 1937:

"Apres L'Ondee by Guerlain: fresh. Dominant note: floral."

Combat, 1955:

"Apres l'Ondee by Guerlain: the basket of roses and wisteria on the balcony leans towards the finally quenched garden. Princely lilies, mock oranges, heliotropes and apoplectic peonies lost their breath under the tawny sun. The drops of rain freshened the sweet petals orange tree and those, vanilla, snowballs, smoothed the laurel which smells of almond and the taffeta of thyme. Mingled with their sighs of ease, for transparent blondes, the smell of lawns and wet raspberries."

Scent Profile:

The original vintage formula for Après L'Ondée is a symphony of powdery florals, soft musks, and subtle spices, each ingredient contributing to a fragrance that evokes a garden in the misty aftermath of rain. As the fragrance unfolds, it begins with a bouquet of delicate top notes, immersing you in an aromatic floral landscape.

At first, the sharp green scent of oleander wafts gently forward, its slightly bitter edge softened by the fresh, herbal clarity of rosemary. The herbal brightness is swiftly complemented by the sweet, subtly spicy scent of hawthorn, a floral note with a touch of honeyed warmth. Seringa, or mock orange, brings a heady sweetness reminiscent of orange blossom but with a lighter, more delicate touch, as if the garden were still damp from the rain. 

The tart, sun-kissed burst of bergamot adds a touch of citrus zest, while the aromatic, medicinal hints of lavender introduce a calming, almost nostalgic undertone. Wisteria then blooms into the heart, delicate and fragrant like soft purple petals, blending seamlessly with the green, earthy touch of thyme. Finally, the faint sweetness of raspberry lingers at the edges, suggesting the freshness of fruit ripening after the rain, its tartness rounded out by the surrounding florals.

As the fragrance develops, the middle notes unfold, revealing a bouquet of flowers that have opened wide in the humid warmth of the post-rain air. The soft, powdery embrace of heliotrope rises first, with its almond-like sweetness infusing the air with a vanilla-like warmth, underscored by a slightly spicy edge. Peony brings a lush, rosy fullness, while the exotic sweetness of jasmine adds depth and sensuality. 

There is the watery clarity of lily, cool and slightly green, alongside the more sultry and luxurious scent of orchid, with its creamy, floral richness. The delicate, almost transparent fragrance of orange blossom adds a bright, sunny floral touch, as if sunlight were filtering through raindrops. 

Violet, a signature note in Guerlain’s creations, contributes a powdery softness, almost velvety in texture, wrapping the fragrance in a gentle haze. Finally, bouvardia, with its fresh, jasmine-like scent, rounds out the heart, adding a sense of vibrancy and vitality, like a hidden bloom revealed after the rain.

In the base, the fragrance settles into a warm, comforting layer of gourmand and musky notes. Vanilla, rich and sweet, provides the grounding warmth, evoking the sensation of golden sunlight warming the earth after a rainstorm. The creamy, nutty scent of almond brings a softness that is almost edible in its warmth, blending seamlessly with the earthy, slightly bitter note of laurel, which adds depth and an unexpected herbal twist. 

The powdery, root-like scent of orris lends a velvety smoothness, reinforcing the powdery floral theme of the fragrance. Lastly, the seductive, animalic undertone of Tonkin musk emerges—soft, sensual, and enveloping, like the last lingering note of warmth and life in a garden as the rain fades away.

Together, these ingredients weave a tapestry of smells that feels both ethereal and grounded, capturing the essence of nature's rebirth after the rain. Après L'Ondée is a fragrance that lingers on the skin like a memory of a spring shower, delicate, fleeting, and utterly romantic.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Apres L'Ondee was reformulated several times over the years. As fo 2024, Apres L'Ondee is still being produced by Guerlain.

From Guerlain:

"Created by Jacques Guerlain in 1906, Après L'Ondée is a celebration of the fine weather that follows the rain. 

In this bouquet of powdery flowers, Jacques Guerlain orchestrated its floral note around violet, iris and vanilla nuances. 

Powdery Floral.  Tender, delicate, subtle. 

Composed in nuances and half-shades, Après l'Ondée opens on aniseed notes and continues with a powdery-spicy floral bouquet whose scent evokes a stroll through the dewy underbrush. 

Guerlain creations each have their own story and sometimes strong similarities. This is the case of Après l'Ondée and L'Heure Bleue, two countryside fragrances inspired by the beauty of a moment and a photograph of nature. Created six years earlier, Après l'Ondée has a more watercolour and pastel aspect than L'Heure Bleue."

Reformulated Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fresh white flower floral-oriental fragrance for women.

• Top notes: lemon, bergamot, anise, neroli, cassia
• Middle notes: orris, violet, sandalwood, rose, ylang ylang, vetiver, carnation, mimosa, jasmine
• Base notes: vanilla, benzoin, musk, styrax, heliotrope, iris, amber

Reformulation's Scent Profile:

The reformulated Après L’Ondée opens with a burst of freshness, each note evoking the cool, invigorating sensation of air cleansed by rain. The initial top notes are vibrant and zesty, as if the first rays of sunlight are breaking through the lingering clouds. Lemon greets the senses with its sharp, citrusy tang—bright and clean, cutting through the mist with its effervescent sparkle. 

Alongside it, bergamot adds a softer, more rounded citrus note, subtly bitter and green, reminiscent of crushed leaves releasing their oils underfoot. Then comes the distinctive, slightly herbal sweetness of anise, with its licorice-like aroma adding a spicy, aromatic twist, as if the garden carries the lingering scent of wet herbs. 

Neroli blooms with a fresh, sweet floral character, like delicate orange blossoms opening in the warmth after the storm. The final touch of cassia, with its cinnamon-like spiciness, hints at something exotic and warm, grounding the initial freshness with a whisper of heat.

As the scent unfolds, the heart of the fragrance blooms with an array of rich, opulent florals and soft woods, creating a lush garden feel. Orris emerges first with its velvety, powdery character, giving the composition a soft, almost tactile quality, as though you could feel the petals brushing your skin. The violet adds a sweet, powdery fragrance, soft and slightly wistful, while sandalwood provides a creamy, woody warmth that begins to anchor the scent. 

The rose is full-bodied, fresh, and dewy, evoking a bloom kissed by the rain, while the exotic, heady sweetness of ylang ylang brings a touch of the tropics, with its lush and creamy floral scent. Vetiver, earthy and green, adds depth, grounding the florals with its smoky, grassy undertones, as if the wet earth beneath the flowers is beginning to dry. 

The spicy, peppery note of carnation lends a touch of warmth and complexity to the bouquet, while the soft, honeyed scent of mimosa brings a delicate sweetness. Finally, jasmine unfurls its rich, intoxicating scent, a symbol of sensuality and romance, adding a luxurious and slightly indolic floral touch.

In the base, the fragrance deepens, taking on a warmth that feels like the sun drying the last droplets of rain on the leaves. Vanilla, sweet and comforting, envelops the skin in a soft embrace, its creamy richness adding a sense of coziness. Benzoin, with its resinous warmth, enhances the sweetness of the vanilla, creating a smooth, balsamic backdrop that lingers beautifully on the skin. 

The soft, sensual musk adds an animalic warmth, enhancing the fragrance’s depth and making it feel more intimate as it melds with the skin. Styrax contributes a resinous, slightly leathery undertone, grounding the florals with its rich, deep character, while the powdery, almond-like scent of heliotrope gives the fragrance a delicate sweetness that evokes the freshness of rain-soaked flowers. 

Iris emerges once again, powdery and cool, its presence lending elegance and sophistication, while amber adds a warm, golden glow, like the final rays of sunshine after a storm. Together, these base notes create a rich, lingering finish that is both soft and sensual, leaving a lasting impression of warmth and tranquility.

The reformulated Après L’Ondée offers a delicate balance between freshness and warmth, capturing the essence of a tranquil garden after the rain, where each note blooms and fades with the gentle rhythm of nature. Its florals, woods, and orientals create a fragrance that is both airy and comforting, a serene and evocative experience.

Bottles & Packaging:

Presented in a Louis XVI flacon (parfum), the quadrilobe flacon (parfum), the Goutte flacon (eau de toilette), the Montre flacon (eau de cologne) and the Empire flacon (parfum) and various spray flacons over the years.