Cuir de Russie by Guerlain c1875

Cuir de Russie by Guerlain, launched in 1875 and created by Aimé Guerlain, is a fragrance steeped in both tradition and exoticism. The name itself, Cuir de Russie, is French, meaning "Russian Leather." This title hints at the fragrance’s inspiration, rooted in the luxurious, smoky, and rich scent of fine leather traditionally associated with Russia, especially the leather used in boots, saddles, and other equestrian equipment of Russian soldiers. Guerlain’s choice of this name aligns with a sense of aristocratic elegance and an aura of mystery, tapping into Western Europe's fascination with Russia's vast empire and its exotic luxury.

The phrase Cuir de Russie conjures powerful images of horse-drawn sleighs racing across snowy Russian steppes, the warm and supple leather of saddles polished to a shine, and the rugged sophistication of the Russian aristocracy. The name evokes emotions of opulence, strength, and a kind of wild, untamed beauty. It also carries an air of adventure, as Russia in the 19th century was still a land largely unknown to much of Europe, fueling romantic ideas of exploration and the exotic.

In terms of scent, Cuir de Russie would be interpreted as a bold and evocative fragrance that marries the smokiness of leather with rich, warm notes. Leather scents traditionally evoke images of strength and durability, but Guerlain would likely have softened the composition with floral or spicy accents to ensure it retained an air of elegance, making it wearable and alluring for men but also women of the era. Notes of birch tar, commonly used in the tanning process of Russian leather, would give the fragrance its distinctive smoky profile, while hints of florals like rose or iris would lend a feminine touch, balancing the rawness of the leather.

For women in 1875, a perfume named Cuir de Russie would have represented a departure from the typical floral and powdery fragrances of the time. This was a period marked by an increasing interest in exotic scents and materials, as Europe expanded its global reach. The daring name and scent profile would have appealed to women with strong personalities, those who embraced bold fashion choices and sought to stand out in a society where refinement was paramount. At a time when most women were expected to adhere to certain standards of femininity, wearing a leather-based fragrance might have signaled independence and a sense of adventure.

The 1870s was a significant era in perfumery, with the rise of complex, modern fragrances that moved beyond simple floral or herbal compositions. Cuir de Russie was part of a larger trend in which perfume houses began exploring more intricate, multi-layered scent profiles, often incorporating notes like leather, woods, and spices. However, Cuir de Russie stood out as particularly unique, as leather scents were still relatively rare in women’s fragrances at the time. Its boldness marked a shift from the lighter, more traditional offerings toward more unconventional, daring scents that would soon come to define luxury perfumery.

By launching Cuir de Russie, Guerlain was not only responding to a growing fascination with exotic materials but also pioneering a new direction in perfumery. It introduced women to the idea that a scent could be both strong and elegant, allowing them to express a more dynamic aspect of their identity. The fragrance, with its luxurious leather heart, echoed the opulence and mystery of Russia, while also fitting perfectly within the larger movement toward more sophisticated and multi-dimensional perfumes.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a spicy leather chypre fragrance for men and women.

• Top notes: leather, floral notes, hesperidic notes, aromatic notes
• Middle notes: jasmine, gardenia, rose, lilac, ylang ylang, leather, spicy notes, patchouli, rosewood and vetiver
• Base notes: smoky notes, oakmoss, leather, musk and orris

According to Monsieur Guerlain, Frédéric Sacone made a fascinating discovery regarding the reformulation of Cuir de Russie in 1935 by Jacques Guerlain. In reviewing the handwritten formula, Sacone found that Jacques Guerlain had reused elements from Chypre de Paris, launched in 1909, as well as Mitsouko, released in 1919, to craft his new version of the classic Cuir de Russie, which was originally launched in 1873. This combination of two highly influential fragrances in the Guerlain repertoire adds an intriguing layer to the history of Cuir de Russie.

Chypre de Paris, a chypre fragrance introduced in the early 20th century, lent its sophisticated blend of citrus, oakmoss, and labdanum to the reformulation. This created a refined, earthy base for Cuir de Russie, reinforcing its timeless elegance. The addition of Mitsouko, celebrated for its rich, spicy, and fruity character with a heart of peach and moss, further enhanced the leather-based composition. The inclusion of these two perfumes as ingredients demonstrates Guerlain’s vision of creating a more nuanced, multifaceted scent.

Jacques Guerlain’s use of Chypre de Paris and Mitsouko in the 1935 reformulation of Cuir de Russie highlights his talent for reinventing classic fragrances. By blending elements from these earlier creations, he infused Cuir de Russie with a sense of modernity while still maintaining its roots in the original 1873 composition. This approach reflects the house of Guerlain’s tradition of innovation, crafting scents that are both anchored in heritage and alive with contemporary appeal.

Recently, I was able to obtain a sample from my good friend Alexandra Star, who has lots of rare antique Guerlain treasures in her etsy shop, Parfums de Paris. If you are interested in experiencing the smokey deliciousness of Guerlain's Cuir de Russie, stroll on over to her shop and take a look around. I will do a proper review on this sample soon.

Bottles:

Presented in the Carre flacon (parfum), the quadrilobe flacon (parfum), the Goutte flacon (eau de toilette), the Amphore flacon (parfum), the Lanterne flacon (parfum), and Stilboide Fluid (hair dressing).

Photo by ellenaa

Photo by anapamama.ru

Photo by Drouot

Photo by ellenaa

Fate of the Fragrance:

Cuir de Russie by Guerlain, originally launched in 1873 and reformulated by Jacques Guerlain in 1935, was still being sold in 1953. This longevity speaks to the enduring appeal of the fragrance, which had captivated the public for decades. Though it was a product of a specific era, its sophisticated composition and evocative name allowed it to maintain relevance well into the mid-20th century.

The precise date of its discontinuation remains unknown, shrouded in mystery like many classic perfumes whose production quietly ceases as tastes and trends evolve. Its discontinuation marks the end of an era for a fragrance that had bridged multiple generations, embodying both the elegance of its 19th-century origins and the modernity introduced through its reformulation in the 1930s. Despite no longer being produced, Cuir de Russie remains a significant part of Guerlain’s rich history, a testament to the brand's legacy of creating iconic, timeless fragrances.