Historical Cosmetics & Perfumes

A Brief History

The House of Guerlain is one of the oldest perfume houses in the world. It was founded in 1828 when Pierre-Francois Pascal Guerlain opened up his first perfume store on 42, Rue de Rivoli in Paris. Pierre-Francois composed and manufactured custom perfumes with the help of his two sons, Aime & Gabriel. His unique approach was to personalize perfume for a specific person, place or event. Honore de Balzac commissioned his own eau de toilette during the writing of Cesar Birotteau, and the periodical La Sylphide, le Journal des Elegances, scented each issue with a different fragrance by Guerlain.

Guerlain catered to the high society of Paris, and obtained a very loyal following. The perfume house was so successful that Guerlain decided to open a flagship store at 11, Rue de la Paix in Paris in 1840. I found some old Guerlain perfume labels that have the address correctly listed as 11 rue de la Paix. I found a reference to the shop being at this address in the publication Galignani's New Paris Guide for 1851 (may have been old information).

A 1847 publication lists the address as 15 rue de la Paix. (Bradshaw's continental monthly continental railway, steam navigation & conveyance guide. June 1847)

The house reached its pinnacle in 1853 when Pierre-Frangois-Pascal Guerlain introduced his newest fragrance, Eau de Cologne Imperiale as a wedding present to the Empress Eugenie of France, the wife of Napoleon III. It was contained inside of a flacon decorated with imperial bees, the upper portion of the flacon recalls the column in the place Vendôme in Paris. It's herbal-citrus appeal quickly became her favorite fragrance and its popularity in turn gained Guerlain the prestigious title of His Majesty's Official Perfumer of France. This in turn led him to create perfumes for other royals such as Queen Victoria of England, the Empress Sissi of Austria, the Queen of Belgium and Queen Isabella of Spain as well as other crowned heads of royalty.

Pierre-Francois passed away in 1854 and his sons inherited the perfume house. Aime became the master perfumer, a tradition that would be upheld for the next master perfumer in lineage. Gabriel managed and further expanded the house. Aime created several fragrances for the perfume house, these include Fleur d'Italie, Rococo, and Eau de Cologne du Coq and his greatest creation, Jicky.

In 1873, Guerlain received a medal of merit at the Universal Exposition held in Vienna .

In 1875, Aime Guerlain sought to patent his "Woman Flags" logo for the house of Guerlain in Great Britain.

Aimé Guerlain, President of the Chambre Syndicale de perfume; juror exhibitions of 1878 and 1889, participated in the Moscow exhibition in 1892.

In 1914, Guerlain moved to 68, Champs-Elysees Paris.

The business was then handed down to Gabriel's sons, Jacques & Pierre Guerlain. Jacques became the third master perfumer and created many fragrances in his lifetime. His creations include Eau de Coq, L'Heure Bleue, Apres L'Ondee, Shalimar, Vol de Nuit, Ode, and Mitsouko. These perfumes were so successful that some are still sold today. Jacques grandson, Jean-Paul Guerlain is the fourth-generation master perfumer and has authored several perfumes and men's colognes including Vetiver, Habit Rouge, Samsara, Nahema, Jardins de Bagatelle and many others.

A Day in the life of a wealthy Parisian Lady, according to Grace Hummel:

A fashionable Parisian lady during the 19th century may have used Guerlain's perfumed vinegars to scent her apartment with the Vinaigrillon Seville, which she could also use to heal cuts or sores on her body.

The lady would have also used Guerlain's famous Savon Sapoceti, a rich soap, made up of whale blubber to cleanse her body and whiten the skin. It could be had in either a jasmine, ylang ylang, frangipani, heliotrope, benzoin, acacia, verbena, gardenia, honey or rose, or even one of Guerlain's special perfumed blends, Fleurs de Alpes, Huile d'Amande, or Maréchale Duchesse.

A long soak infused with L'Amidon de Guimauve, a starch made from the marshmallow plant, would have softened the bath water.

When she wanted to remove superfluous hair on her face, neck or arms, she could mix some of Guerlain's Epilotoire with a bottle of its Prepared Water to create a hair removing paste.

After bathing and depilating her unwanted hair, she may have dusted her body with Poudre d'Amande in a cloud of pulverized almonds.

To freshen her skin throughout the day, she would have used a scented vinegar. For a long time the use of vinegars had been admitted in the toilette. It was a means of salubrity which contributed to cleanliness and health, a preservative against contamination and bad air. White distilled vinegars were considered the very best quality. Vinegars were perfumed and made in two ways, either by distillation or by infusion, two equally good means; but distillation was preferable, because it gave strength and whiteness to the vinegar.

To cleanse her face she may have used Laits d'Iris ou de Concombres, a cucumber and iris infused milk from a glass bottle, followed by the citron based astringent, L'Essence de Cedrat or Eau de Pearl to tone her skin and shrink her pores.

By massaging Crème à la Fraise, in a white porcelain jar with a small strawberry molded on the lid, or Creme Emolliente au Suc de Concombres, a cucumber cream, from white porcelain jar, this would moisturize and freshen her face.

To lighten her skin's complexion she may have used some Lotion de Golwond, or the cold cream made up of snails, Creme Froide de Limaçons or the pearly white cream of Blanc de Perles.

If she had a blemish a little dab of Creme Camphrea, a so-called miracle cream, from a tin pot would help, it was promoted to make your skin look like one of the porcelain dolls from your childhood. Another anti-blemish product was the Eau de Guerlain, containing tincture of benzoin, distilled water of cherry laurel and unfortunately extract of lead, it was said to be a remover of pimples and red splotches.


Before bed, she may have slathered on night cream, possibly Creme Lenitive, an analgesic cream to smooth the skin and to make to maintain its elasticity, and to fade age spots or freckles, she would use Creme Patti or Creme Nivea, both from white porcelain jars.

To clean her teeth, she would use Tresor de la Bouche, a vegetable powder based powder she would moisten with water, it was advertised as preventing tooth decay and would not harm the enamel on the teeth.

To ensure that her mouth was freshened, she would have swished with either L'Elixir de Guerlain, a balsamic antiseptic mouthwash to keep her gums and teeth strong and healthy, or Alcoolat Cochlearia et de Cresson, a watercress infused mouthwash..

To give her complexion a little color, she may apply Serkis de Sultanas, the secret formula of the harem queens. This would be followed by a dusting of Poudre de Lys or Poudre de Cypris culled from its decorated cardboard box with a swansdown puff to cut down on the shine and give her an alabaster like complexion.

To bring a natural glow to her visage, she may have rubbed a little liquid blush, Bloom of Roses on her cheeks with a cotton ball, or swiped a little powdered Rouge au Carmin de Chine or Rouge de Damas on the apples of her cheeks which was pressed into a small glass mortar decorated with gold.

A genteel lady would have used Roselip, a subtle rose-tinted lip balm housed in a tiny Sevres porcelain pot, but a more adventurous lady may have applied a little Rose du Moulin, a rosy lip color with her finger from a small green glass tub or Extrait de Rose from a glass bottle.

The more daring woman may have even lined her eyes with La Pyrommee, an Arabian styled kohl powder for the eyes kept inside an ivory tube decorated with an eye motif. Advertising of the era told a story that Pierre-Francois-Pascal Guerlain learned the secret formula from an Armenian Pasha who gave it to the ladies of his harem.

To keep her body moisturized and supple throughout the day, she may have rubbed on some Creme Nivea to her arms and legs and during winter or harsh, windy weather, when her skin needed more protection, a thicker emollient the Cold Cream of Roses would have made sense.

If she was a nursing mother, she may have applied Baume de la Ferte, a balm made from the tannins in Bordeaux wine, benzoin, beeswax and almond oil, to soothe her chapped nipples, the antiseptic qualities of the benzoin and wine tannins would promote healing. Years later in the 20th century, the formula for this balm would be used to restore flexibility to the lips.

She may have then used Crème de Perse to soften her hands, and rubbed Poudre Oriental on her nails to polish them to a high shine, then removed her cuticles with Pate d'Amande au Miel, a honey and almond paste, and applied a little Huile de Rosat to give a rosy gloss to her nails.

Her hair would be cleansed with L'Eau de China, to condition her hair, she would have used the Veritable Moelle de Boeuf, a pomade made up of beef marrow to promote hair growth.

To complete her hairdressing, then she would have applied some l'Eau Lustrale, a liquid hair groom which would have gave it a lustrous shine. A touch of Grasse d'Ours Liquefiee, a pomade made of bear's grease, would help keep that jaunty cowlick from popping out from her coiffure in addition to strengthening and prevent color fading of the hair.

Before heading outside she may have applied Pate a L'Huile d'Amandes de Pistache, a pistachio paste made with almond oil, to make skin supple or Creme Huve de la Providence to her face to protect it from the sun's rays.

Her toilette would be complete with a splash of Esterhazy Bouquet, a cologne rumored to have aphrodisiacal qualities, was a blend of orange blossom, rose, vetiver and vanilla. Her copy of Le Journal des Elegances, a fashionable magazine of the time, even had its pages of a special edition sprinkled with the famed essence.

Fashionable cosmetic and skin care products were:

19th century:

• Cold Cream of Roses (1828)
• Veritable Graisse d'Ours (bears grease hair pomade, c1830)
• Veritable Moelle de Boeuf (beef marrow pomade c1830)
• Savon Sapoceti (soap, made up of whale blubber, c1830 -1960)
• Guerlain's Saponaceous Ambrosial Cream (emollient shaving cream soap for men, c1835) 
• Guerlain's Shaving Cream (made of almond oil and the finest perfume, c1839)
• Crème à la Fraise (strawberry face cream, c1840-onward)
• Bloom of Roses (liquid blush, 1840)
• Otto Rose Soap (soap perfumed with otto of roses, c1840)
• Rouge au Carmin de Chine (blush, 1840)
• Rouge de Cour (Court Rouge, a blush,1840)
• Rouges de Carthame (Safflower Rouge, a blush, 1840)
• Rouge de Damas (Damascus Red, a blush, 1840)
• Creme Emolliente au Suc de Concombres (cucumber face cream)
• L'Essence de Cedrat (Citron based facial astringent)
• L'amidon de Guimauve (bath water softener made up of marsh mallow starch)
• Laits d'Iris ou de Concombres (cucumber juice and iris milk, cleanser)
• Lotion de Golwond (a skin bleach)
• Creme Froide de Limaçons (a cold cream, made from snails)
• Blanc de Perles (Pearl White, a skin lightener)
• Creme Camphrea (a zit cream, c1870)
• Creme Lenitive (an analgesic cream to smooth the skin and to make to maintain its elasticity)
• Creme Nivea (skin bleaching cream)
• Creme Patti (skin lightener, named after Adelina Patti)
• Tresor de la Bouche (a vegetable powder based tooth powder)
• L' Elixir de Guerlain - Dentifrice Antiseptique (antiseptic mouthwash)
• Alcoolat Cochlearia et de Cresson (a watercress infused alcoholic mouthwash)
• Serkis de Sultanas(a tinted face cream)
• Pate d'Amande au Miel (Honey and almond paste)
• Poudre de Lys (face powder)
• Poudre de Cypris (Cypress Powder, a face powder c1890) to refresh and soften the skin.
• Poudre de Cygne (Swan's powder, a face powder) to refresh and soften the skin.
• Poudre aux Fleurs (Powder of Flowers, face powder )
• Alba Pulvis (white face powder)
• Roselip (rose tinted lip balm)
• Extrait de Rose (liquid lip tint)
• Baume de la Ferte (nipple balm made from Bordeaux wine tannins, benzoin, beeswax & almond oil, c1830)
• Ne M'Oubliez Pas (the first lipstick from 1870)
• La Pyrommee (kohl, a powdered eye liner, from 1878-1940)
• Grenadine (amyntic liniment) to tone and soften the skin, prevents chapped skin.
• Eau Lustrale, a fragrant water to cleanse and beautify the hair
• Ruspini's Odontalgic Elixir for the mouth and teeth
• Crème saponine d'ambrosial

20th century:

• Lotion Vegetale (a hair dressing first made around 1900, came in various scents)
• Secret de Bonne Femme Creme Pour le Visage (face cream, scented with Apres L'Ondee perfume, 1904-2001)
• Rose du Moulin (Moulin red, a blush, a play on the name Moulin Rouge, made from 1907-1950)
• Poudre Super Dulci also spelled as Superdulci (face powder 1912-1949)
• Rouge d'Enfer (Rouge Inferno, first indelible lipstick c1924)
• La Poudre C'est Moi (face powder scented with Shalimar, created in 1925)
• Stilboide Fluide (a hair dressing, used to add lustre and fix the hair, created in 1923. It was perfumed with Jicky, L'Heure Bleue, Shalimar, Mitsouko, Fleur de Feu,Sous Le ent and Hegemonienne ) 
• Creme au Citron (a lemon scented moisturizing face cream c1930)
• Huile Pour Brunir (tanning oil, 1936)
• Cremaliment (1941)
• Emulsion Ambrosia (anti aging serum c1950)
• Creme Super Nourissante No.2 (1952)
• Hydroserum (1955)
• Creme Hydrante Pour Le Corps (Body Moisturizer in various scents, Shalimar, Ode, Mitsouko, L'Heure Bleue, Chant D'Aromes, Chamade) (1959)

....

Historical information culled from period publications:

REPORTS OF THE BOARD Of EXPOSITION OF 1900:

classe 90 - Parfumerie

"L'énumération serait trop longue de toutes les spécialités de la maison Guerlain qui de 1788. Nous citerons seulement parmi les nombreux produits que contenait son les créations anciennes l'Excellences, Héliotrope blanc, le Pré d automne, l'eau de Cologne impériale, la Poudre de Cypris, pâte royales et parmi les créations toutes récentes la Gavottes parfum d été très, le Jardin de mon curé s, le Bon vieux temps, l' eau de Cologne hégémonienne, de pot pourri aux plantes marines, Voilà pourquoi j' aimais Rosine. Tous ces parfums étaient exposés sur des consoles et des guéridons et présentés pour uns à nu afin de montrer la valeur intrinsèque des produits." 

("The list would be too long of all the specialties of the house of Guerlain in 1788. We cite only one of many products that contained his creations the old Excellencies, Heliotrope Blanc, le Pré d automne, l'eau de Cologne impériale, la Poudre de Cypris, pate royale, among all the creations of recent, Gavottes scent was very summery, le Jardin de mon curé, le Bon vieux temps, l' eau de Cologne hégémonienne , de pot pourri aux plantes marines, Voilà pourquoi j' aimais Rosine. All these perfumes were exposed on consoles and pedestals and presented for each bare to show the intrinsic value of the products.")

Journal des demoiselles, 1879:

"EAU DE COLOGNE EXTRAITS De LA MAISON GUERLAIN Rue de la Paix 15. Si nous ne voyons pas le nom de M Guerlain figurer en première ligne sur la list des récompenses décernées par le jury de l'Exposition universelle c'est qu il était membre de ce jury et en cette qualité hors concours Ce choix honore assez M Guerlain et le place à la tète de l'indus trio qu il avait l'honneur de représenter. L'eau de Cologne et les extraits de cette maison ont attiré par leur fabrication l attention des chimistes et des fabricants français et étrangers. Ces extraits concentrés développent sous un petit volume une odeur suave dans laquelle n entre ni musc ni odeur forte pour s'imprégner d'une odeur quelconque il est inutile de s'en inonder une goutte suffit c'est un progrès presque une découverte qui rend l étranger tributaire du laboratoire de la rue de la Paix Le succès c'est encore affirmé cette année M Guerlain ayant vu doubler les commandes c'est la récompense d'un continu et d'expériences sans cesse renouvelées On ne peut juger en flacon le bouquet d un c'est au mouchoir alors qu il s'évapore l'on en apprécie l'odeur suave et persistante eau de Cologne d'un parfum frais et agréable d'un excellent usage en s'en frottant les tempes elle dissipe le mal de  tête Les extraits concentrés Pao Rosa extrait du bois du Brésil de Serre et le bouquet impérial russe doux et persistant sont en vogue et méritent le succès que lui fait le high life de tous les Le bouquet de la comtesse d'Edla vient être composé par M Guerlain pour la femme roi De avec des fleurs du Portugal la des montagnes sur lesquelles s'élève l'antique château de Cintra résidence favorite du roi fourni à M Guerlain le bouquet du plus exquis ses parfums l'extrait de Cintra Nous rappelons que rien n'est meilleur contre les gerçures lèvres et des mains les engelures même ouvertes que le baume de la Ferté La petite boîte 1 fr 25 cent. " 

("WATER, EXTRACTS, COLOGNE From LA MAISON GUERLAIN Rue de la Paix 15. If we do not see the name of M Guerlain be at the forefront of the list of awards by the jury of the Expo is that he was a member of the jury and as such standout choice this honor enough M Guerlain and place it at the head of the industrial trio that he had the honor to represent. The cologne and extracts of this house have attracted the attention of their manufacturing chemists and French and foreign manufacturers. These extracts are concentrated in a small volume develop a sweet smell in which between musk or strong odor to soak up any odor it is useless to flood, a drop is enough, progress almost makes a discovery the dependent foreign laboratory rue de la Paix success is still said this year saw double M Guerlain orders is the reward of a continuous and ever-changing experiences can not judge the bottle bouquet of a tissue that is then that it evaporates it appreciates the sweet smell of cologne and persistent fragrance of a fresh and pleasant to excellent use by rubbing her temples dissipates headache extracts concentrated extract Pao Rosa wood Greenhouse Brazil and Russian Imperial sweet bouquet and persistent are in vogue and deserve the success that it is the high life of all the bouquet of the Countess of Edla just be composed M by Guerlain for Women with Flowers from king of Portugal the mountain on which stands the ancient castle of Cintra favorite residence of King provided M Guerlain bouquet of exquisite scents extract Cintra We recall that nothing is better against chapped lips and hands frostbite even open the balm of Ferté the small box 1 en 25 percent.")

The Court Magazine & Monthly Critic and Lady's Magazine, & Museum ..., Volume 10, 1842:

"Heureusement les brusques changements de saison et les caprices de température qui naguère encore exerçaient une influence si pernicieuse sur la peau n'ont plus rien de bien redoutable aujourd hui que nous possédons la lotion de Guerlain qui conserve si bien à la peau sa fraîcheur son éclat sa jeunesse même Cette lotion n'est du reste pas le seul titre que l'habile parfumeur de la fashion ait à a reconnaissance du beau sexe et les bienfaits de l'oléine èmulsive sont assez connus pour que nous n'ayons pas besoin d'insister beaucoup sur ce point N'oublions pas de recommander encore parmi les produits si remarquables de Guerlain la Cydonia qui donne à la chevelure un noir d ébène si brillant et si beau l'oxèolè et l'eau de toilette dont nous avons dit plus d'une fois les merveilleux effets Par rai les parfums si nombreux que nous devons à notre chimiste favori on distingue surtout la scotia flora le caprifolium le géranium l extrait de myrthe et de Portugal etc etc Les gants de Mayer ont une distinction aussi parfaite que les parfums de Guerlain Aussi est il le fournisseur privilégié de toutes les cours et si l'on pouvait douter de sa supériorité il lui serait facile de répondre par ses succès en Angleterre et en Russie ces deux pays où l'on apprécie si bien la véritable élégance" 

(Fortunately, the sudden change of seasons and the vagaries of temperature once again exercised so pernicious influence on the skin have nothing to be feared today we have Guerlain lotion that keeps the skin so its cool radiance This lotion even his youth is not only the rest of the way as the skilled perfumer has to fashion a recognition of the fair sex and the benefits of olein emulsive are fairly well known that we do not need much emphasis on this point Do not forget to recommend products from more remarkable if the Guerlain Cydonia which gives the hair of a black ebony so brilliant and beautiful the oxèolè and cologne we say more once the marvelous effects by reason so many perfumes that we owe our favorite chemist there are especially scotia caprifolium the flora geranium extract the myrtle and Portugal etc etc gloves Mayer distinction as perfect as perfumes Guerlain Also it is the preferred supplier of all courses and if one could doubt his superiority it would be easy to answer for his success in England and Russia, the two countries where one appreciates so true elegance.)

L'Artiste: journal de la littérature et des beaux-arts,  1856:

"Par conséquent ce mélancolique visage ne demandera pas Guerlain son rouge de Damas ni son rouge de la cour son rouge Plessis Pourtant ce pâle visage prendra de l de roses pour les lèvres ou de la pommade carminée une petite bouche fraîche et vermeille est un des plus attraits de la beauté La pilleur du camélia et du s'obtient avec le lait de perles le diapasme oriental la de lis et la poudre de lis préparations uniques et préparées par Guerlain qui s'occupe exclusivement de beauté de la femme Guerlain est plus qu un parfumeur c'un savant qui demande à la science et à la nature des infaillibles ll sait la vertu de chaque plante le pouvoir chaque fleur Chacun de ses produits a donc un but L'des Alpes est destinée à la toilette c'est une eau et balsamique distillée avec des plantes et des fleurs qui ont la propriété d être toniques et rafraîchissantes en exhalant un parfum frais et doux qui vivifie et l'odorat ll existe encore d'autres eaux le toilette car Guerlain est prodigue de talismans de coquetterie Par exemple l eau de la reine, l eau de Judée, l'esprit de fleurs de cédrat, l'eau de lavande royale, la lotion de Guerlain, l'eau de Cologne russe, l'eau de fraises, l'eau de roses. Presque tous parfums de Guerlain conviennent également aux dandys et hommes du monde il ya pourtant certaines créations s'adressent tout directement à la barbe aux moustaches aux favoris telles que la crème d'ambroisie pour la barbe le Stilbo- Pologne pour lustrer la barbe les moustaches les favoris et le Magyar Nemzeti bajusz Kenocs pommade hongroise pour les moustaches et les favoris" 

(Therefore this melancholy face not ask her red Guerlain Damascus nor his court his red red Plessis Yet it will pale face of the rose lip salve or a small crimson mouth fresh and rosy is one of the most attractive the beauty of the looter of the camellia and the milk is obtained with the beads diapasme the oriental lilies and lily powder preparations and prepared by Guerlain unique that deals exclusively woman's beauty is more than a Guerlain perfume what a scientist asks the science and the nature of infallible. He knows the virtue of each power plant each flower each of these products is therefore a goal of the Alps is for the toilet is a water and balsamic distilled with plants and flowers which have the property of being tonic and refreshing fresh fragrance exhaling a sweet smell that tingles and ll are still other waters because the toilet is Guerlain prodigal talismans coquetry for example the water the queen, the water Judea, the spirit of citron flowers, lavender water royal lotion Guerlain cologne Russian water strawberries, rose water. Almost all Guerlain fragrances are also suitable for dandies and men in the world yet there is some creations aimed it directly to shaving the mustache to favorites such as cream ambrosia for the beard ,Stilbo Poland to polish beard mustache, favorites and Magyar Nemzeti Bajusz Kenocs ointment Hungarian mustache and sideburns)

La femme et la famille et Le journal des jeunes personnes, Volume 2,1868:

"La parfumerie est une de ces choses qui peuvent être soit essentiellement hygiéniques soit tout à fait dangereuses C'est pourquoi il est important de choisir des parfumeries de bonne qualité C'est avec confiance que nous recommandons la maison Guerlain rue de la Paix pour ses parfums ses savons pommades essences et eaux de toilette Cette maison bien connue du reste n'offre à ses clients que des produits de premier choix On y trouve un assortiment complet de toutes les pâtes poudres flacons et boites qui ont leur place réservée sur la table de toilette d'une femme du monde Par ces grandes chaleurs les teints délicats sont bien exposés aux taches de rousseur C'est pourquoi nous recommandons à nos lectrices de se servir du lait antéphélique de Candès remède le plus efficace contre ces taches qui viennent enlaidir les plus beaux visages On emploie ce lait étendu d'eau Sa réputation est maintenant européenne et l'on en expédie même des caisses dans toutes les parties du monde Le lait antéphélique se vend cinq francs le flacon Le dépôt à Paris se trouve chez Candès rue Saint Denis n 26 .......sont rares à Paris La manie des cheveux blond roux ardent n est pas encore délaissée On voit des brunes se teindre uniquement pour changer la couleur de leurs cheveux noirs en roux L effet est loin d être seyant à leur physionomie les cheveux noirs teints deviennent d une couleur acajou foncé qui ne s harmonise ni avec le teint ni avec les yeux Ce n est pas moi chères lectrices vous le savez bien qui vous conseillerai jamais d aussi ridicules fantaisies Point de teinture donc mais si vous voulez de la belle et bonne parfumerie savons pommades poudre de riz élixir pour le  dents vinaigre parfumé pour le bain odeurs pour le mouchoir adressez vous à la maison Guerlain rue de la Paix dont les produits sont aussi hygiéniques qu agréables a l'usage." 

(The perfume is one of those things that can either be primarily hygiene is quite dangerous This is why it is important to choose good quality perfume. It is with confidence that we recommend Guerlain Rue de la Paix for its perfumes its soaps and ointments species colognes. This well-known house of rest that offers its customers products of choice There is a complete range of all pulps powder flasks and boxes have their place reserved on the dressing table a woman in the world by the great heat sensitive complexions are exposed to freckles. That is why we recommend our readers to use milk Candès antéphélique of the most effective remedy against these stains are the most beautiful ugly Face It uses this milk diluted with water. His reputation is now the European Union and we even send funds in all parts of the world milk antéphélique sells five francs the bottle. The deposit is located in Paris Saint Denis Candès n 26.......are rare in Paris mania blond hair bright red is not yet forsaken You see brown dye is only to change the color of their hair black red The effect is far from being flattering to their faces dyed black hair to become one dark mahogany color that's compatible neither with the skin or eyes This is not my dear readers you know that you never advise of ridiculous fancies stain Point so but if you want to know good and beautiful perfume, ointments, rice powder, flavored vinegar, elixir for the teeth, scents for your handkerchief.  To contact: Guerlain Rue de la Paix, whose products are also pleasing that a hygienic use)

Journal des demoiselles, 1875:

"Je crois me rappeler vous avoir promis dans la visite du mois d'août de vous expliquer ce que c'est que le pulvérisateur à odeurs de M Guerlain. Ce pulvérisateur se compose d'un élégant flacon de cristal à long goulot dans lequel plonge un tube en cristal tenant au bouchon et auquel est fixée une boule en caoutchouc communiquant avec le tube en pressant cette bome l'air refoulé sur le liquide contenu dans le flacon le fait jaillir en une poussière odorante. On se sert du pulvérisateur pour rafraîchir l'air des appartements et pour soi même en recevant sur ses vetements cette fine douche sans crainte de les tacher car cette poussière est impalpable on la dirige sur les mains sur la figure et elle vous donne une impression de fraîcheur très agréable. Le pulvérisateur grand modèle coûte i 5 francs. Les odeurs employées dans cette saison sont la verveine, le cédrat, le Portugal, l'eau de Cologne, tous les parfums frais. L'emploi des cosmétiques n'implique pas toujours une idée de coquetterie souvent une raison d'hygiène vous fait recourir à certaines préparations adoucissantes qui rafraîchissent le teint maculé de rougeurs. Si je vous désigne par exemple la crème au suc de concombres comme excellente pour la peau et contre les rougeurs subites du visage je ne crois pas faire acte de coquetterie car l'odeur du concombre est plutôt un désagrément qu'un attrait le prix est de 3fr le pot. La crème de fraises la grenadine sont encore de très bonnes préparations dont on peut se servir en toute confiance comme de tout ce qui sort de la maison Guerlain 15 rue de la Paix la première coûte 4 fr., la seconde 5 fr. le pot. "

(I think I remember you have promised in the August visit to explain what it is that the spray smells M. Guerlain. This sprayer comprises a bottle elegant crystal long neck which is immersed in a crystal tube to the stopper and holding a rubber ball which is fixed tube communicating with the terminal by pressing the discharge air on the liquid contained in the the vial is a fragrant dust gush. We use the spray to cool the air and apartments for himself receiving his clothes on this fine shower without fear of staining for this impalpable dust on the heads of the hands on the face and it gives you a sense of nice freshness. The large spray pattern costs 5 francs. Odors used in this season are verbena, lemon peel, Portugal, colognes, perfumes all costs. The use of cosmetics does not always imply an idea of coquetry often due to hygiene makes you use some softening preparations refresh the complexion stained redness. I mean if you, for example cream cucumber juice as good for the skin and against sudden reddening of the face I do not think to act coquettishly as the smell of cucumber is rather an inconvenience that the price is attractive 3 fr pot. Strawberry cream grenadine are still very good preparations which can be used with confidence as anything out of the i5 Guerlain Rue de la Paix the first $ 4 en 5 fr the second pot. Care of your hands you will find the white powder of almonds Montpellier violet 2 en z5 the package and i en 2 May the wind.)

ODEUR DE SAINTETÉ 

Oeuvres: Avec portrait de l'auteur d'après une peinture de Laszlo, Volume 2

 By Robert Montesquiou-Fézensac (comte de), 1907

Cet éclat emprunté RACINE elle avait l'amour de la fioriture,osa se parer jusqu à la pourriture,voulut se faire aimable pour la Mort,désorienter son étreinte qui mord,quand on lui dit que c'est l'heure du prêtre,Ce ne fut que Guerlain qu'elle fit apparaître,Et de la sainte huile et d'extrême-onction,Les cosmétiques seuls firent la fonction,Religieusement elle ouvrit sa besogne,Par l'eau de Portugal et par l'eau de Cologne,Vinrent l'Opoponax avec l'Ylang Ylang,A l'arome entêté tenace et vigilant,Les baumes de Ninon avec les veloutines,Qui gardent le duvet des pêches enfantines,La rougeur du raisin la pâleur du bismuth,Dont mainte camériste à mesure s'émut,Elle aviva de kohl sa prunelle vitreuse,Versa la belladone en sa paupière creuse,Et ses yeux dilatés de Flore in extremis,Furent à se fermer plus longs qu'il n'est permis,Sur son masque mourant alternaient avec fièvre,Et la poudre de riz et la patte de lièvre,Glycérines onguents fards opiats crayons,Sous lesquels la vraie âme éteignait ses rayons,Elle émailla de blanc ses taches hépatiques,Mit le rouge à sa lèvre et ses membres étiques,Se voilèrent du flot des dentelles de lait,Que paillette un collier qu éclaire un bracelet,Mais elle se hâtait devant l'Inexorable,La Mort qui ne veut plus que l'on soit adorable,Ni qu'on fasse tourner les têtes et les cœurs,Et met sur tout cela ses errata moqueurs,Donc son corps bien lavé sa figure bien faite,Ses cheveux bien coiffés elle fut satisfaite,Et fière d être belle encore pour les vers,Aux mains des Atkinsons dans les bras des,Elle rendit son corps au Dieu des Tubéreuses,Qui fait les Lis béats les Jacinthes heureuses,Et dans le Nirvana des fleurs alla chercher,La Résurrection de rose de sa chair 

Town topics, the journal of society - Volume 29 - Page 32, c1893:

"My dear Lena, you asked me to see about some small articles de toilette. So I went to Guerlain's and this is what he suggests for you. An etui of "Pyrommee" for the eyes, it certainly makes one's eyes look better and is quite harmless. It contains a little India rubber tampon that you pass gently under and over your eyelashes but before using it blow off the black that is too thick or you will have too much on and look as if you had two lovely black eyes. It undoubtedly gives brilliancy to the eyes and does not show in the least I use it as well for my eyebrows - the least little soupcon - and I am sure you have never noticed it. To keep your powder on there is one famous article from Guerlain's called "Creme Patti". The Comtesse de B always uses it and she is certainly the best arranged woman in France. You put it on all over your face and rub it well in. Don't think it is greasy for it is not. Her face never looks hot or greasy. Then you wipe it off with a soft towel and put your powder on lightly. If you want any rouge - and if you are feeling tired or ill it sometimes necessary try lip salve on your cheeks, tout bonnement, and a little powder on the top of it. Rouge gives such a expression I think whereas lip salve no one can see - I defy to find you out - and one hates one's little secrets to be to the world. I ordered you yards of heliotrope flannel to put the wardrobes and also on your bodies as sachet powder invariably comes out and makes a dust. A new perfume called "Nice Dear" I thought irresistible. In France we adopt a perfume and stick to it. One's scent is part of one's self l am sure you will like Nice Dear, to wish not to change again and that you will find with "Creme Patti" and the "Poudre de Blanc de Perles", the salve and the black for your eyes. Time and weather are naught you. Lena dear I swear secrecy...no torture could wrench this secret from my lips."