Hello and welcome! Please understand that this website is not affiliated with Guerlain in any way, it is only a reference site for collectors and those who have enjoyed the classic fragrances of days gone by. All trademarks belong to their respective owners. The main objective of this website is to chronicle the 200+ year old history of the Guerlain fragrances and showcase the bottles and advertising used throughout the years. Let this site be your source for information on antique and vintage Guerlain perfumes. Another goal of this website is to show the present owners of the Guerlain company how much we miss many of the discontinued classics and hopefully, if they see that there is enough interest and demand, they will bring back these fragrances! I invite you to leave a comment below (for example: of why you liked the fragrance, describe the scent, time period or age you wore it, who gave it to you or on what occasion, what it smelled like to you, how it made you feel, any specific memories, what it reminded you of, maybe a relative wore it, or you remembered seeing the bottle on their vanity table), who knows, perhaps someone from the current Guerlain brand might see it. If you have any questions, please send all images of your bottle and pertinent information directly to me at cleopatrasboudoir@gmail.com. I will try to assist you the best I can.

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Wednesday, January 30, 2013

Rue de la Paix by Guerlain c1908

The name "Rue de la Paix" carries a deeply evocative significance for both Guerlain and its clientele. Translated from French, "Rue de la Paix" means "Street of Peace," pronounced "RUE-DUH-LAH-PAY." This iconic Parisian address, which housed the Guerlain boutique from 1840 to 1913, symbolizes a blend of elegance and tranquility. In choosing this name for his 1908 fragrance, Pierre Guerlain not only paid homage to the prestigious location but also infused the perfume with the essence of sophistication and serenity associated with the street.

The name "Rue de la Paix" conjures images of a refined and serene Parisian boulevard, evoking a sense of timeless beauty and graceful luxury. The street itself, situated in the heart of Paris, was renowned for its high-end boutiques and its role as a symbol of Parisian elegance and social status. This historical context suggests that the fragrance aimed to capture the allure and tranquility of this prestigious location.

Classified as a softly sweet floral amber fragrance for women, Rue de la Paix mirrors the opulence and refinement of its namesake. The perfume embodies a delicate balance of floral notes with a warm, amber undertone, designed to evoke a sense of peaceful luxury. For women of the early 20th century, this scent would have been more than just a fragrance; it represented an olfactory connection to one of Paris's most celebrated and historic streets. As such, Rue de la Paix would have been perceived as an embodiment of both personal elegance and the broader cultural prestige associated with the Guerlain name and its storied location.

Parfum des Champs Elysees by Guerlain c1904 (Original)

Parfum des Champs-Elysees, launched in 1904 by Jacques Guerlain, carries a name rich with meaning and prestige. "Parfum des Champs-Elysees" translates from French as "Perfume of the Champs-Elysees," referring to the iconic avenue in Paris. The Champs-Elysees has long been a symbol of French elegance and grandeur, a place where high society, opulent boutiques, and sophisticated culture intersect. The name evokes the splendor and refinement associated with this famed boulevard, positioning the perfume as a luxurious and quintessentially Parisian experience.

The name itself stirs images of a leisurely promenade along the tree-lined avenue, where the blend of nature and urban sophistication is tangible. In scent, "Parfum des Champs-Elysees" would likely embody the vibrant yet serene atmosphere of this iconic location. Its green floral woody chypre classification suggests a sophisticated composition, with fresh, verdant top notes and a floral heart, balanced by the grounding, earthy base typical of chypre fragrances. The scent would evoke a walk through a lush garden, where green leaves, delicate flowers, and the warm scent of wood meld seamlessly with the crisp Parisian air.

For women in 1904, the name "Parfum des Champs-Elysees" would have resonated as a representation of cosmopolitan sophistication and Parisian allure. During this era, the Champs-Elysees was already a symbol of modernity and high fashion. Wearing a perfume with this name would have connected a woman to the glamour and prestige of Paris, particularly for those who aspired to the elegance of Parisian life, even from afar. The fragrance would serve as an olfactory escape, transporting the wearer to this world of beauty, refinement, and status.



Candide Effluve by Guerlain c1921

Candide Effluve, launched in 1921 by Jacques Guerlain, carries a name that exudes innocence and purity, reflecting the qualities of an untouched, youthful femininity. The name itself is a combination of "Candide" and "Effluve." In French, "Candide" means “innocent” or “pure,” and is pronounced “kan-deed.” "Effluve" translates as “fragrance” or “scent,” pronounced “eh-floov.” Together, "Candide Effluve" suggests a delicate, pure, and radiant scent, evoking imagery of youthful innocence intertwined with the natural elegance of a young woman. This name embodies a sense of purity and naiveté, connecting directly to the idea of a fresh and untouched fragrance, just as the perfume was intended to capture the essence of an innocent young woman.

The name Candide also recalls Voltaire’s famous novella, Candide, and its related operetta adaptation. In Candide, the character Candide embarks on a journey through a world of turmoil and chaos, guided by an unwavering belief in optimism and goodness despite constant misfortune. In Voltaire’s narrative, Candide symbolizes the purity of thought and action, a figure untouched by the cynicism of the world. Guerlain’s choice of Candide Effluve likely taps into this literary and philosophical reference, aligning the scent with ideals of innocence, optimism, and purity—qualities desirable in a woman’s fragrance in the early 20th century.

The imagery conjured by Candide Effluve is that of a young woman in a serene, untouched natural landscape, perhaps in a sunlit meadow surrounded by flowers, where each breath of wind carries delicate, powdery floral scents. There is an ethereal quality, a sense of unblemished beauty and purity that evokes calm and lightness. The word "effluve" suggests something soft, an ephemeral scent carried gently on the air. In scent terms, Candide Effluve would be interpreted as a soft, powdery fragrance with light floral and amber accents, creating an aura of understated elegance and youthful freshness.

Lavande by Guerlain c1833

Launched in 1833 by Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain, Lavande epitomized the elegance and refinement of early 19th-century perfumery. The name "Lavande," derived from the French word for lavender, evokes a sense of tranquility and purity. Lavender, with its deep roots in both traditional medicine and personal care, was a symbol of freshness and cleanliness. The choice of this name would have immediately suggested a fragrance that was both soothing and invigorating, reflecting the calming properties of the lavender flower.

The scent of Lavande would have been interpreted as an aromatic, herbaceous blend, with lavender at its core, offering a crisp and refreshing top note. This fragrance would likely have featured the clean, floral aroma of lavender, complemented by subtle green and slightly woody undertones that would evoke images of serene lavender fields in full bloom.

In the 19th century, lavender was a popular choice for perfumes, and many perfumeries carried their own variations. The choice to name a perfume Lavande thus aligned with contemporary trends, while also reflecting Guerlain’s commitment to capturing the essence of this well-loved floral note. For women of that era, a perfume named Lavande would have been both fashionable and reassuring, offering a blend of sophistication and natural elegance. It would have appealed to their desire for a fragrance that embodied freshness and refinement, mirroring the broader trends in perfumery that celebrated both natural beauty and innovative scent compositions.





Kriss by Guerlain c1942

Kriss by Guerlain, launched in 1942 during the height of World War II, stands as a striking creation by Jacques Guerlain. The name "Kriss" was carefully chosen to evoke the mystique and symbolic power of the keris (or kriss), a serpentine dagger from Southeast Asia, primarily Indonesia, Sumatra, and Malaysia. This ceremonial weapon, pronounced "Kreess," is revered for its spiritual significance, often believed to possess magical powers. Used in religious rites and as a weapon of personal defense, the kriss represents both protection and aggression, a balance of life and death. The weapon's undulating blade, sharp and serpentine, conjures images of ancient traditions, stealth, and danger, which, when translated into fragrance, evokes a sense of mystery, exoticism, and intensity.

The word "Kriss" immediately suggests power and an enigmatic allure, stirring emotions of intrigue and danger. Women in the 1940s, particularly in occupied Paris, might have been drawn to the name for its exotic connotations, offering a fantasy escape from the harsh realities of war. The scent itself, classified as an oriental fougère, would embody this duality—a blend of rich, oriental notes softened by fougère freshness. Such a combination would feel both grounding and sensuous, evoking far-flung lands yet firmly rooted in the timeless elegance expected of a Guerlain fragrance. Kriss might have been perceived as a fragrance for a strong, confident woman, one who, despite the turmoil surrounding her, embraced both sophistication and strength.

The year 1942 marked a tumultuous period, with Nazi forces occupying Paris. Perfume production, like many industries, was deeply affected by the war. Resources were scarce, and access to certain ingredients was limited due to blockades and supply disruptions. Despite this, Guerlain managed to continue creating fragrances, possibly benefiting from a strategic relationship with high-ranking Nazi officials. According to an unfounded rumor, Jacques Guerlain may have designed Kriss for a high-ranking Nazi officer, which, if true, could have been a pragmatic move to ensure the survival of his business during a perilous time. Maintaining such relationships would have provided Guerlain with protection and access to materials and markets otherwise closed off due to the occupation.

Moskovskaia Slava by Guerlain c1883

Moskovskaia Slava by Guerlain, launched in 1883, was created as a tribute to the Russian nobility, specifically in honor of Alexander III, who had recently ascended to the Russian throne. The name "Moskovskaia Slava" translates to "Glory of Moscow," a title that immediately evokes grand imagery of Russia’s imperial splendor, its rich cultural history, and the power and majesty of its royal court. Choosing such a name reflects Guerlain’s admiration for Russia’s strong influence on Europe during this period, both politically and artistically, as well as the allure of its aristocracy. The title encapsulates the grandeur of Moscow, with its majestic architecture, Orthodox cathedrals, and the opulent lifestyle of its nobility.

The phrase "Moskovskaia Slava" would have conjured feelings of pride, luxury, and power. For those familiar with Moscow, it would evoke images of the Kremlin’s golden domes glistening in the sunlight, the imposing presence of Red Square, and the elegance of Russian high society. It represents both a geographic and cultural celebration of the beauty and prestige associated with Moscow, and by extension, the Russian Empire itself. Men and women of the time, particularly in France and Europe, would have viewed this fragrance as a symbol of sophistication and aristocratic allure. The name suggests a strong connection to Russian history, regal ceremony, and a certain exoticism that European perfume houses were eager to capture.

Scent-wise, the name "Moskovskaia Slava" would suggest a fragrance rich in depth, warmth, and opulence. One might imagine the scent evoking the cold Russian winters, contrasted by the warmth of luxurious interiors. Notes of spices, rich woods like sandalwood and cedar, and musky elements could represent the grandeur and strength of the Russian empire, while florals such as jasmine and rose may reflect the delicate beauty of Russian nobility and their deep appreciation for fine fragrances.

Djedi by Guerlain 1926

Djedi by Guerlain, launched in 1926, was a creation that encapsulated the mystical allure of ancient Egypt while commemorating the 100th anniversary of Guerlain’s founding. Created by Jacques Guerlain, this fragrance was housed in an exquisite Baccarat flacon, reflecting the grandeur of the occasion. Guerlain, like many in the 1920s, was captivated by the era's fascination with ancient Egypt—a trend sparked by the discovery of King Tutankhamun’s tomb in 1922. Egypt became a symbol of mystery, allure, and timelessness, and Guerlain's Djedi perfectly embodied these sentiments.

The name "Djedi" itself is a direct nod to Egyptian mythology. In ancient Egyptian, "Djedi" means "he who endures," evoking images of longevity, resilience, and ancient wisdom. Pronounced "djed-ee," it conjures visions of a distant, enigmatic past—golden sands, towering pyramids, and the eternal Nile. The name is also tied to the legend of the magician Djedi, a 100-year-old sage believed to have lived during the reign of Pharaoh Khufu, who was said to possess powers of resurrection and divination. This mythical figure, who advised on the construction of the Great Pyramid, embodied the mysticism and spiritual power that resonated with the era’s fascination with Egyptology.

In scent, Djedi is interpreted as a leathery chypre fragrance, a composition deeply reflective of ancient materials and rituals. The leathery notes give the fragrance a sense of antiquity and durability, while the chypre base—traditionally earthy and mossy—brings to mind the ancient temples and tombs, infused with the richness of incense and balms. There is an undeniable gravitas to this fragrance, a weight that speaks to history and endurance. Women of the time, immersed in the glamour and exoticism of the 1920s, would have related to Djedi as a perfume that exuded strength, mystery, and an air of the forbidden. To wear Djedi was to wrap oneself in a tale of ancient power and enduring beauty.



Les Quatre Saisons Limited Edition Perfume Presentation c2008

For Guerlain's 180th Anniversary of the opening of their first shop in Paris on May 15, 2008, the company decided to mark the occasion with presenting a limited edition boxed set of four perfumes. Named Les Quatre Saisons, The Four Seasons.

The box is made up of black grained leather.  H: 10.7 cm x 4 Dimensions: 32 cm x 13 cm

Each 35ml bottle is made up of clear Baccarat crystal with the heart shaped stopper, and is then hand engraved with a small illustration representing each season.

The set was limited to only 95 copies, retailing for 2500 euros/$3393 each.





Mon Precieux Nectar c2009

Mon Precieux Nectar: created in 2009. It was created by Sylvaine Delacourte and Randa Hammami.

It was originally released as a limited edition of only 35, housed in a crystal fountain, the Fountain Imperiale, manufactured by the famous Val Saint Lambert in Belgium, and retailed for a whopping $9,000. The fountain, column like with timeless, pure lines inspired by the Second Empire. And, a honeybee, the emblem of the house, was engraved in the center of the stopper. The fountain contains one liter of parfum.


Mouchoir de Monsieur by Guerlain c1904

Mouchoir de Monsieur, launched by Guerlain in 1904 and created by Jacques Guerlain, carries a name steeped in elegance and refinement. The phrase "Mouchoir de Monsieur" translates from French to "Gentleman’s Handkerchief," immediately evoking an image of sophistication, formality, and the social graces of a bygone era. During the Belle Époque period, the custom of scenting handkerchiefs was a mark of aristocratic refinement, and such an accessory was an essential part of a gentleman's ensemble. Handkerchiefs, often intricately embroidered and made from fine linen or silk, were carried both for practical purposes and as symbols of taste and status. With this name, Mouchoir de Monsieur suggests not only the personal touch of fragrance on such a delicate fabric but also the idea of a perfume that envelops the man in an aura of cultivated charm.

The choice of "Mouchoir de Monsieur" as a wedding gift for a couple of friends reflects the intimate and sentimental aspects of the fragrance. It represents a gesture that is both personal and ceremonial—perfuming the handkerchief for a gentleman symbolizes care and thoughtfulness, while also marking the beginning of a new life chapter with grace. The name evokes images of a well-dressed man of the era, impeccably groomed and carrying the lightly scented handkerchief in his pocket, ready for moments of polite society, romantic encounters, or subtle acts of gallantry. It is a scent tied to the ritual of refinement and chivalry, a reminder of when gestures were laden with meaning.

As an aromatic musky oriental fragrance, Mouchoir de Monsieur would have conjured a sense of warmth, elegance, and masculinity for the men of the time. The scent of musk would have added an animalic and sensual undertone, lending depth to the wearer’s presence. The oriental notes—likely comprising spices, resins, and warm woods—would create an atmosphere of richness, with the air of mystery and opulence. Such a fragrance would complement a gentleman’s persona, an understated yet powerful signal of class and allure. It would have been particularly well-suited to the sophisticated social spheres of the Belle Époque, where scent was not just about personal hygiene but a reflection of one's social identity and an extension of style.

During the Belle Époque, the practice of perfuming not only the skin but also accessories like handkerchiefs, gloves, and veils was a widely embraced custom, particularly among the upper classes. This was a time of immense cultural and artistic flourishing, where fashion, elegance, and attention to detail defined everyday life. Fragrance played an important role in this atmosphere of indulgence and self-expression, often adding to the romantic and luxurious allure of the period. Handkerchiefs, being delicate and portable, were the perfect canvas for a soft whisper of scent, allowing the fragrance to linger subtly without overwhelming.


Vol de Nuit by Guerlain c1933

Vol de Nuit by Guerlain, launched in 1933 and created by Jacques Guerlain, was inspired by the second novel of famed French aviator and author Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, titled Night Flight (Vol de Nuit in French). The perfume’s name encapsulates the romance, danger, and adventure of the early years of aviation. Saint-Exupéry’s novel is a poignant exploration of the human spirit set against the backdrop of the fledgling airline industry. The book follows the lives of pilots and their courageous night flights through perilous skies, managing the fear of the unknown and the isolation of the skies while navigating the emotional toll of separation from loved ones. It is a meditation on bravery, duty, and love, perfectly mirroring the feelings of soaring through the night, risking life, and reaching for the unreachable. The novel's deep emotional core made it a fitting inspiration for Guerlain to transform into a fragrance.

The word "Vol de Nuit" is French and translates to "Night Flight." Pronounced VOL-DUH-NEWEE, the name evokes images of dark skies, stars glimmering like jewels above a silent earth, and the hum of a plane cutting through the stillness. There is an undeniable sense of intrigue, elegance, and danger—qualities that speak to the allure of nighttime adventures in the early days of aviation. Women wearing this scent could imagine themselves part of this high-flying world, filled with mystery and anticipation. The name alone conjures emotions of excitement, longing, and the rush of exploration, feelings magnified by the glamour and exclusivity of air travel during that era.

As an oriental chypre fragrance, Vol de Nuit captures the essence of the novel’s atmosphere in scent. The fragrance opens with the bright, sharp hesperidic notes of citrus peel oils, reminiscent of the fresh, cool air as a plane ascends into the night sky. Blending seamlessly with these are dry mountain herbs like bay, marjoram, basil, rosemary, mint, and thyme, evoking the rugged landscapes of the world seen from above. The presence of lyre sage and mountain flowers like laurel and lavender lends an air of both untamed nature and tranquil beauty, balancing the more intense elements.

As the fragrance develops, it reveals a heart of florals such as jasmine, orange blossom, violets, narcissus, and roses. These flowers, potent and hypnotic, mirror the novel’s themes of love and tenderness amidst the harshness of flight. Dusty orris root and spices like nutmeg, coriander, and cinnamon add a warmth and richness, reminiscent of the heat of an aircraft’s cabin juxtaposed with the cold night air outside. Finally, the base notes—moss-covered oaks, exotic woods, myrrh, vanilla, and animalic notes of civet, musk, ambergris, and castoreum—are deeply grounding, evoking the earth far below and the primal pull of adventure.


Pour Troubler by Guerlain c1911

Pour Troubler by Guerlain, launched in 1911 and created by Jacques Guerlain, bears a name that is both provocative and evocative. In French, "Pour Troubler" translates to "to disturb" or "to unsettle," pronounced "poor troo-BLAY". The name alone suggests a fragrance designed to stir emotions, break conventions, and leave a lasting impact. The phrase conjures up imagery of subtle disruption, a perfume that doesn't just please but challenges, compelling the wearer and those around her to pause and take notice.

In scent, "Pour Troubler" could be interpreted as a fragrance that disturbs the senses in the most intoxicating way, blending the richness of the Orient with the freshness of fougère elements. As an oriental fougère, it combines warm, spicy, and sweet resins with aromatic, herbal, and fern-like notes—an unusual combination in women’s fragrances at the time. The composition likely played with contrasts, giving the wearer a sense of mystery and allure. The "disturbing" quality could stem from the bold pairing of elements that would traditionally belong in masculine perfumery with a softer, more feminine base, creating a tension between light and dark, freshness and depth.

When Pour Troubler was released in 1911, the world was on the cusp of great social and artistic change. The perfume emerged during a period marked by avant-garde movements like Cubism, which revolutionized the way art was perceived and produced. Cubism, pioneered by artists like Pablo Picasso and Georges Braque, deconstructed objects and scenes into geometric forms, challenging traditional representations of reality. The concept of breaking things down to their essence and rearranging them in unexpected ways could very well have resonated in perfumery as well. Guerlain, always ahead of the curve, might have been inspired by this disruption of artistic norms. The same daring spirit that underpinned Cubism—redefining beauty through fragmentation and reassembly—could explain why Pour Troubler was described as "disturbing." It could be a scent that dismantled traditional ideas of what a feminine fragrance should be, instead offering something bolder, more complex, and modern.


Vague Souvenir by Guerlain c1912

 Vague Souvenir by Guerlain, launched in 1912 and created by Jacques Guerlain, evokes a poetic, dreamlike sentiment through its very name. The phrase "Vague Souvenir" is French, translating to "vague memory" or "faint recollection," and is pronounced [vag soo-vuh-neer]. It conjures images of fleeting thoughts, elusive memories that linger just at the edge of consciousness, much like the sensation of a familiar scent that brings a rush of emotion but remains just out of reach. The name alone evokes nostalgia, romance, and a longing for something lost to time. Guerlain, renowned for his ability to craft perfumes that connect with deep emotional undercurrents, may have drawn inspiration from such a poignant concept. The song "Vague Souvenir" from Leo Delibes' 1881 opera Lakmé may have influenced this choice, given the similar sentiments expressed in the opera.

The plot of Lakmé, set in British-colonized India, revolves around Lakmé, the daughter of a Brahmin priest, and her ill-fated romance with a British officer named Gérald. The opera explores themes of forbidden love, cultural clashes, and sacrifice. In the aria "Vague Souvenir," Lakmé reflects on the haunting pull of distant memories, touching on the fragility of emotions and moments that cannot be fully grasped but are deeply felt. In naming the perfume Vague Souvenir, Guerlain might have captured the essence of fleeting beauty, passion, and an exotic allure akin to the character of Lakmé herself.

The fragrance Vague Souvenir is classified as a fruity floral tobacco scent, which adds a tactile, grounded layer to its ethereal name. Fruity florals are often bright, sweet, and lush, while tobacco brings warmth, depth, and a touch of mystery. Together, they create a complex narrative of emotions, much like the bittersweet memories hinted at in the name. The fruity notes could represent joyful, lighthearted moments, while the tobacco adds the weight of nostalgia and lost time. This balance of fleeting joy and deeper, melancholic tones would have resonated deeply with women in the early 20th century, a time when emotions were often expressed through both personal fragrances and cultural references like opera.

In 1912, when Vague Souvenir was released, the world was on the cusp of great change. This was the era of the Belle Époque, a period of artistic flourishing, elegance, and an increasing fascination with exoticism. Opera was a significant influence on the arts, and it deeply impacted the world of perfumery. Operas like Lakmé, with their dramatic storytelling and rich cultural settings, fueled the imagination of audiences, transporting them to faraway lands. Women of this period, who often looked to fashion, art, and music to express their individuality and desires, would have been captivated by a perfume like Vague Souvenir. It promised to envelop them in a cloud of mystery and elegance, allowing them to embody the refined, emotional depth conveyed in operatic performances.


Vega by Guerlain c1926

In 1926, Vega by Guerlain was launched, a creation by the renowned perfumer Jacques Guerlain. The name Vega was chosen for its celestial connection, named after one of the brightest stars in the night sky, more radiant than the sun itself. Jacques Guerlain, passionate about the mysteries of the universe and regularly consulting treatises on astronomy, found inspiration in this distant star. The name Vega comes from the Arabic word "Al-Waqi," which means "the diving eagle," a reference to the star’s positioning in the Lyra constellation. Interestingly, around 12,000 years ago, Earth's rotational axis passed through Vega, making it the North Star during that time. The idea of a star once guiding the planet would have captivated Guerlain, as it represented timeless beauty, power, and an eternal connection to the cosmos. Pronounced "Vay-gah," the word Vega rolls off the tongue with a sense of grace and ethereal elegance.

The name Vega evokes images of the vast, infinite sky, filled with sparkling stars, and the sense of awe that comes with contemplating the enormity of the universe. It brings to mind the brilliance of a star that has guided civilizations, suggesting both a sense of history and cosmic mystery. The word carries a duality—on one hand, it evokes an eagle’s majestic dive, a symbol of strength and power; on the other, it conjures an image of a distant star, burning bright in the cold expanse of space. In scent, Vega would be interpreted as something otherworldly, a fragrance that captures the cold clarity of starlight and the vastness of space, balanced by the warmth and radiance of its celestial inspiration.

Vega is classified as an aldehydic floral fragrance, and the inclusion of aldehydes plays a significant role in how the perfume evokes the cosmos. Aldehydes bring a sparkling, effervescent quality to fragrances, often described as "soapy" or "metallic," but in Vega, they create the sensation of shimmering stardust, a crystalline brightness that feels as if it belongs to another realm. Aldehydes lend a unique abstraction to the fragrance, suggesting the cold, crisp air of outer space, where stars glitter in the silence. This effervescent quality also adds a sense of distance and mystery, much like gazing at stars from Earth. The floral notes, roses, jasmine, and ylang-ylang, are softened and abstracted by the aldehydes, giving them a luminous, almost intangible quality, like the scent of flowers carried by a gentle cosmic breeze.


Fleur de Feu by Guerlain c1948

Fleur de Feu, launched by Guerlain in 1948 and created by Jacques Guerlain, is a fragrance imbued with profound symbolism and historical significance. The name Fleur de Feu translates from French as "Flower of Fire," a poetic and evocative phrase that captures the essence of rebirth and renewal. Pronounced [flerr duh foe], this name conjures imagery of vibrant blooms emerging from the flames, reminiscent of the mythical phoenix—a legendary bird that bursts into flames at the end of its life cycle, only to rise anew from its ashes. The phoenix symbolizes transformation, resilience, and the cyclical nature of life, perfectly reflecting the fragrance's intention to embody a fresh start following the devastation of World War II.

The choice of name, Fleur de Feu, is imbued with a dual layer of meaning. On one hand, it represents the phoenix's rise from destruction, symbolizing hope and regeneration. On the other, it pays homage to the blossoming of beauty from adversity, much like Paris itself, which had recently emerged from the shadow of Nazi occupation. The fragrance, with its spicy floral composition layered over the Guerlinade accord, embodies a triumphant resurgence, combining the complexity of rich, spicy flowers with the timeless elegance of Guerlain’s signature scent.


Fleur Qui Meurt by Guerlain c1901

Fleur Qui Meurt, launched in 1901 by Jacques Guerlain, embodies a poignant fusion of beauty and impermanence, encapsulated by its evocative name. Translated from French, "Fleur Qui Meurt" means "The Flower That Dies." This name poetically captures the fleeting nature of floral splendor and evokes a sense of both melancholy and nostalgia. It suggests a final, bittersweet moment when a flower’s fragrance reaches its peak before succumbing to the inevitability of decay. This duality of ephemeral beauty and sorrowful finality is reflected in the fragrance’s composition and emotional resonance.

The fragrance opens with a delicate, powdery violet, which captures the sweet, ephemeral essence of a flower in its prime. The violet, known for its soft, velvety texture, is mingled with costus and reseda, creating a blend that is both floral and slightly earthy. These top notes evoke a vivid image of a garden in full bloom, where the freshness of green notes adds a lively touch, yet hints at the impending melancholy of the flower's decline.

As the scent develops, the heart reveals a rich tapestry of floral and earthy tones. Jasmine, with its heady, intoxicating aroma, blends with the powdery orris root, evoking a sense of vintage elegance and nostalgia. The inclusion of heliotrope adds a warm, almond-like sweetness, while patchouli and vetiver provide a grounding, earthy depth. This heart reflects the beauty and complexity of the flower’s mid-life stage, a time of full bloom before the inevitable fading.

In the base, the fragrance settles into a chypre foundation characterized by oakmoss, acacia, and musk. Oakmoss imparts a deep, forest-like quality, evoking the image of the flower's final resting place, while acacia offers a soft, resinous warmth. Musk, with its subtle sensuality, lingers like the last whispers of the flower's once-vibrant perfume, now softened by time.

For women of the early 20th century, Fleur Qui Meurt would have represented a sophisticated blend of floral beauty and profound sentiment. The early 1900s were a period of rapid change and introspection, with a growing appreciation for perfumes that told a story or conveyed deeper emotional truths. The scent’s evocative name and its composition would have resonated with the era’s fascination with the transient nature of beauty and the poignant charm of flowers in their final moments.

The fragrance may have also drawn inspiration from the French song "Perfume of a Flower" (Poème de Chine) by Emile Blémont. The lyrics of this song speak to the fleeting nature of beauty and the inevitable decline of the flower's fragrance, aligning closely with the sentiment captured in Fleur Qui Meurt. The fragrance, like the poem, celebrates the ephemeral beauty of the flower, making it a fitting olfactory tribute to both the poetry and the fleeting allure of nature.

Fol Arome by Guerlain c1912

Fol Arome, launched by Guerlain in 1912 and created by Jacques Guerlain, evokes a sense of adventure, luxury, and exoticism through its name and scent profile. The name "Fol Arome" comes from the French language, and can be loosely translated as "crazy aroma" or "mad fragrance." Pronounced fol ah-ROHM, the phrase combines the whimsical idea of something wild and untamed with the sophisticated world of fragrance, suggesting an intoxicating and heady blend. The name itself conjures images of vibrant, unrestrained nature, rich with unexpected, alluring scents, promising an experience that is both daring and captivating.

In terms of scent, Fol Arome would have been interpreted as a lush, exotic floral bouquet, warmed by aromatic spices and deep, tropical woods. Classified as a warm, aromatic floral fragrance, it was designed to convey the richness of tropical landscapes, filled with heady blossoms and the grounding scent of exotic woods. Women of the 1912 era, many of whom were embracing more freedom in their fashion and lifestyle choices, would have related to Fol Arome as an expression of luxury and a reflection of the world’s increasing fascination with far-flung places. This was a time when society was becoming more globalized, and exotic elements—whether in fashion, travel, or scent—became symbols of sophistication and worldliness.

During the early 20th century, when Fol Arome was launched, tropical flowers and woods were seen as rare and precious, adding a sense of opulence to any fragrance. The inclusion of ingredients like tropical woods, sandalwood, and exotic florals would have felt indulgent and refined to women who desired to evoke the mystique of distant lands. Tropical woods like cinnamon and bois de rose (rosewood) from French Guiana, known for their rich, aromatic warmth, were considered luxurious materials in perfumery. These ingredients would have been sourced from colonies and trade routes in places like the Caribbean, India, Southeast Asia, and South America, emphasizing the exclusivity of the scent.

The warm perfume of Fol Arome, with its tropical notes, would have been reminiscent of fruits like pineapple or banana—fruits that evoke a sense of heat, lushness, and indulgence compared to more commonly known scents like apple. The exotic woods would ground the perfume with deep, resinous tones, creating a contrast between the bright, sweet florals and the earthy base. The combination of spices like pepper and cinnamon would have added a lively, slightly fiery quality to the perfume, balancing the sweetness with warmth and complexity.

At the time of its launch, Fol Arome would have spoken to women who were embracing modernity, yet still appreciating the traditional values of elegance and luxury. The choice of tropical flowers and woods reflects the period’s fascination with the exotic and the unknown. The blend of warm, rich ingredients in Fol Arome would have offered a scent that felt like a journey to distant lands—both tantalizing and grounding, making it an ideal fragrance for women looking to project a sense of adventure and refinement.


Guerlarose by Guerlain c1930

Guerlarose, launched in 1930 by Jean-Jacques Guerlain, is a name that immediately evokes imagery of beauty, elegance, and heritage. The word "Guerlarose" combines the iconic Guerlain name with "rose," highlighting the central ingredient of the fragrance. Pronounced [gɛr-lə-rose], it seamlessly merges the prestige of the Guerlain family with the timeless allure of the rose. In French, the name carries connotations of both luxury and nature, blending the house's mastery of perfumery with the soft femininity associated with roses.

The imagery and emotions the name conjures are filled with romanticism, timeless beauty, and sophistication. Women of the 1930s, an era of elegance and refinement before the turmoil of World War II, would likely have been drawn to a perfume with such an evocative name. The rose, a flower synonymous with love, femininity, and purity, was a universal symbol of beauty, and a fragrance centered around this iconic bloom would have appealed to women seeking a refined, classic floral scent. The inclusion of "Guerla" in the name also reinforced the perfume's connection to Guerlain’s legacy, signaling quality and an artisanal blend rooted in tradition.

In terms of scent, Guerlarose would be interpreted as a tribute to the rose in all its facets, framed by Guerlain’s signature Guerlinade accord. The Guerlinade—a signature base of tonka bean, vanilla, iris, and other warm, powdery notes—would serve as the foundation, enveloping the radiant, fresh, and voluptuous aspects of the rose in a cocoon of luxurious softness. The result would be a scent that is not just about the rose itself but about the entire experience of elegance that the flower represents when interpreted through the lens of Guerlain’s craftsmanship.



Jasmin by Guerlain c1833

Jasmin by Guerlain was launched in 1833, crafted by the illustrious Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain. The choice of the name "Jasmin" reflects a deliberate focus on the eponymous flower, a staple in the world of perfumery. The word "Jasmin" comes from the French language, derived from the Persian word "yasmin," which means "gift from God." This name evokes images of lush, blooming gardens where the delicate jasmine flower thrives. The name conjures emotions of elegance, purity, and timeless beauty, evoking visions of serene, sunlit mornings where the air is filled with the intoxicating scent of jasmine blossoms.

In terms of scent, "Jasmin" is interpreted as a tribute to the jasmine flower, renowned for its rich, floral fragrance. Jasmine is celebrated for its heady, sweet, and somewhat exotic aroma, which can be both uplifting and sensuous. This fragrance captures the essence of jasmine's creamy, honeyed nuances and its ability to evoke a sense of luxurious opulence.

For women in the 19th century, a perfume named "Jasmin" would have been highly appealing. During this era, jasmine was a symbol of sophistication and romance. The fragrance would have been associated with the lavish gardens of the elite, where jasmine was often cultivated for its beauty and scent. Women of the time would have related to "Jasmin" as a marker of refinement and taste, aligning with the trend towards floral fragrances that dominated the period.

In the context of the early 19th century, the launch of Jasmin by Guerlain both aligned with and enhanced prevailing fragrance trends. Floral perfumes, especially those featuring jasmine, were popular among perfumers and customers alike. Guerlain's decision to focus on jasmine was in keeping with the era's affinity for floral scents, yet the meticulous crafting and branding of Jasmin showcased Guerlain's commitment to excellence and innovation in perfumery. Thus, while not entirely unique, Jasmin exemplified the elegance and sophistication of the time, solidifying Guerlain’s reputation in the perfume industry.

Jasmiralda by Guerlain c1912

Jasmiralda by Guerlain, launched in 1912 and created by Jacques Guerlain, was inspired by the character Esmeralda from Victor Hugo’s famous novel, Notre Dame de Paris (often known as The Hunchback of Notre Dame). Esmeralda, a captivating and tragic heroine, embodies beauty, innocence, and freedom. She is a Romani dancer whose charm captures the hearts of men, including the bell ringer Quasimodo, priest Claude Frollo, and the captain Phoebus. Her story unfolds in a tale of obsession, love, and sacrifice, leading to her untimely demise. Guerlain’s choice of the name "Jasmiralda" evokes Esmeralda’s spirit, merging her vibrant, enchanting character with the sensuality and allure of jasmine, one of the most celebrated flowers in perfumery.

The name "Jasmiralda" is a creative fusion of the word jasmine and Esmeralda, pronounced "JAZ-mih-ral-da." It evokes images of a sensual, free-spirited woman who defies convention and captivates those around her. The name itself is a tribute to Hugo’s Esmeralda, symbolizing beauty that is both delicate and powerful. Jasmine, known for its rich, narcotic scent, complements the mystery and allure that the character represents, embodying a fragrance that could mirror Esmeralda’s grace, intensity, and vulnerability.

Jasmiralda is classified as a soft floral perfume for women, with a dominant jasmine note. In scent, the name "Jasmiralda" might suggest an intoxicating floral bouquet, led by the sweet, exotic intensity of jasmine—a flower long associated with seduction and sensuality. The fragrance would likely be soft, elegant, yet bold, much like Esmeralda herself. Women of the time period would have connected with the romantic, adventurous spirit of the perfume, which could evoke a sense of mystery and allure, qualities admired during the Belle Époque era, a time marked by cultural flourishing and indulgence.

Launched in 1912, Jasmiralda appeared at the tail end of the Belle Époque, an era of artistic freedom, luxury, and beauty that culminated before the onset of World War I. During this time, women were beginning to experiment with new freedoms, pushing the boundaries of traditional femininity. The character of Esmeralda, with her uninhibited nature and tragic beauty, would have resonated with women who were increasingly looking to assert their independence. A perfume named after such a character would symbolize sensuality, strength, and individuality—qualities that were becoming increasingly important to women of this era.

Tsao-Ko by Guerlain c1879

Tsao-Ko by Guerlain, launched in 1879 and created by Jacques Guerlain, carries a name imbued with both exoticism and historical intrigue. The name "Tsao-Ko" is derived from the Chinese term for black cardamom, a spice known for its distinctive, aromatic qualities. The term evokes an image of far-off lands and ancient trade routes, suggesting a perfume that bridges cultures and offers an olfactory journey into the heart of the East.

In the scent world, "Tsao-Ko" would be interpreted as a fragrance that embodies the rich, spicy character of black cardamom. This spice is known for its bold, smoky aroma, with notes of earthiness and subtle sweetness. The choice of such a name likely reflects Jacques Guerlain's intention to capture the exotic allure and complex depth of this ingredient, translating its aromatic profile into a sophisticated, multi-layered perfume.

For women of the late 19th century, a perfume named "Tsao-Ko" would have represented an adventurous and cosmopolitan spirit. The period was marked by a fascination with the Orient, spurred by increased global trade and colonial expansions. Exotic spices and fragrances were seen as luxurious and rare, offering a touch of the unfamiliar to the everyday. "Tsao-Ko" would thus have appealed to those seeking to distinguish themselves with a scent that spoke of travel, elegance, and an appreciation for the world's diverse sensory experiences.

The late 19th century was a time of rich exploration and cultural exchange. Perfumes like "Tsao-Ko" were not merely about personal fragrance but were part of a broader trend where consumers delighted in the luxury of rare and unique ingredients from distant lands. In this context, "Tsao-Ko" would have been perceived as an olfactory embodiment of the period's fascination with the exotic and the opulent.



Milade by Guerlain c2006

Milade: created in 2006 for the Russian Millionaire Fair, in honour of a Russian woman, sophisticated and elegant. Little is known about this very limited edition as it was not widely available.

Loin de Tout by Guerlain c1933

Loin de Tout by Guerlain, launched in 1933 and created by the master perfumer Jacques Guerlain, was crafted to evoke the essence of escapism and the joy of traveling far from the mundane. The name Loin de Tout is French, pronounced lwan duh too, meaning “far from everything” or "away from it all." This name captures the heart of vacations and the growing desire of the era to seek solace, adventure, and reprieve from the everyday world. It suggests a world where the wearer is transported to distant places, bathed in tranquility and peace—places where the burdens of life fade away, leaving space for leisure, beauty, and freedom.

The phrase Loin de Tout stirs up images of sunny coasts, lush countryside retreats, and exotic destinations. It evokes emotions of longing for solitude, renewal, and quiet indulgence—things that were becoming more valued as people started to travel for pleasure in the 1930s. The scent itself, classified as an aromatic floral fragrance, would have captured these emotions, offering a delicate balance of florals mixed with airy and earthy notes that mirror the feeling of stepping into a secluded paradise. It’s easy to imagine that this fragrance would start with a breath of fresh air—perhaps green and herbaceous—before blooming into soft, enveloping floral tones, like the delicate petals of jasmine and rose.

In the 1930s, the idea of a vacation, of leaving behind daily responsibilities, was rising in popularity. For many women, wearing Loin de Tout would have been a way to embrace this growing culture of travel and leisure. This was an era where more affluent travelers could escape on steamships, trains, or cars to glamorous destinations like the French Riviera, the Italian coast, or Mediterranean islands. This shift toward travel as an indulgent activity helped influence the world of perfumery, where scents were often designed to evoke faraway places or the exoticism of new experiences.

Le Jardin de Mon Curé c1895

Le Jardin de Mon Curé by Guerlain, launched in 1895 and created for women by Jacques Guerlain, embodies a deeply personal connection to the past. The name, which translates from French as "The Garden of My Priest," carries a nostalgic and evocative significance. It reflects not just a physical place but also a cherished memory from Jacques Guerlain's childhood, where he recalled leisurely walks with his grandfather through a garden that was once the domain of a local priest.

The phrase "Le Jardin de Mon Curé" conjures images of a serene, pastoral garden, filled with the lush greenery and delicate blooms one might expect to find in such a tranquil setting. It evokes a sense of nostalgia and reverence, transporting the wearer to a time and place imbued with personal significance and timeless beauty. The garden of a priest in the 19th century would likely have been a haven of both religious and natural calm, meticulously cared for and adorned with a variety of traditional flowers and herbs. This might include roses, lavender, and other fragrant botanicals known for their soothing and aromatic properties.

In scent, Le Jardin de Mon Curé would be interpreted as a fragrance that captures the essence of a well-tended garden, rich with floral and herbaceous notes that evoke a sense of peace and nostalgia. It might feature a harmonious blend of soft, classic floral elements such as rose and lavender, intertwined with the earthy, green notes that suggest the freshness and vitality of a garden in bloom. The perfume would aim to encapsulate the beauty and tranquility of those childhood memories, offering a scent experience that is both comforting and elegant.

Kadine by Guerlain c1911

Kadine by Guerlain, launched in 1911 and created by Jacques Guerlain, is steeped in an air of mystery and opulence, reflective of the perfume's inspiration. The name "Kadine" is derived from the Ottoman Empire, where a "Kadine" (pronounced kah-deen) referred to a woman elevated from the harem to the status of a wife or "favorite" of the Sultan. The word carries a regal and sensuous connotation, evoking images of beauty, power, and intimate connection with the Sultan’s world. 

When Jacques Guerlain visited the Topkapi Palace in Istanbul, he was captivated by the portrait of a Kadine—a woman of exceptional beauty, known not only for her appearance but also for her heightened olfactory senses. This combination of allure and extraordinary perception inspired him to create a perfume in homage to her, capturing the essence of this legendary woman.

The word "Kadine" instantly brings to mind images of exotic palaces filled with lush gardens, luxurious fabrics, and the secret, intimate world of the Sultan's court. The name is imbued with an aura of intrigue, elegance, and sensuality, suggesting a scent that is as mysterious and multi-faceted as the woman it honors. In scent, "Kadine" would evoke the richness of an oriental palace—a blend of warmth, powdery softness, and the aromatic florals that surrounded the Kadines in their secluded gardens. It’s a perfume that speaks of luxury, exclusivity, and a hidden world, inviting the wearer into an intoxicating realm of history and desire.

Classified as a powdery aromatic floral fragrance, Kadine was known for its prominence of iris, a key note derived from orris roots. This powdery, earthy floral note, paired with other aromatic florals, would have been an elegant and sophisticated choice for women in the early 20th century. At that time, powdery fragrances were closely associated with feminine refinement, grace, and beauty, and the inclusion of iris in a perfume like Kadine would have spoken to a woman's desire to exude an air of delicacy and allure. Women of the period, emerging from the constraints of the Victorian era, were beginning to embrace a more liberated sense of style and expression. A perfume like Kadine, with its exotic name and rich, evocative scent, would have resonated deeply with women who were drawn to the idea of exoticism, mystery, and luxury.

The year 1911, when Kadine was launched, was an era of transition in Europe. The Belle Époque was coming to a close, a period marked by grand cultural and artistic achievements. There was a growing fascination with the Orient, as Western Europe looked toward the East for artistic, architectural, and cultural inspiration. This was the time of Art Nouveau, and its sinuous, nature-inspired lines found parallels in the world of perfumery, where exotic florals and rare ingredients were increasingly popular. Women of this time, often affluent and well-traveled, would have been drawn to a fragrance like Kadine not only for its olfactory richness but also for its symbolic connection to an imagined world of Oriental luxury and romance.

The iris note in Kadine, with its earthy, powdery, and slightly woody scent, would have been especially significant in this period, as it was a common component in high-end perfumes, providing a sense of warmth and elegance. It was both timeless and exotic, lending itself perfectly to the kind of narrative Jacques Guerlain wanted to evoke. The story of the Kadine, a woman of power and grace, would have provided a seductive backdrop for the wearer, allowing her to embody the same qualities that the perfume was meant to represent: sensuality, beauty, and sophistication.

Guerlain’s Kadine reflected the spirit of its time—a fragrance that embodied the allure of distant lands and the rich cultural interplay between East and West. The choice of name, notes, and inspiration tells the story of a woman who, like the perfume itself, was a combination of elegance, power, and mystique.




Atuana by Guerlain c1952

Atuana, launched by Guerlain in 1952, was a fragrance that paid homage to the exotic allure of the South Seas, specifically the island of Atuona, where the famed French artist Paul Gauguin spent his final years. Atuona, located in the Marquesas Islands of French Polynesia, was part of France's overseas territories, making it both a geographic and cultural connection for French creators like Jacques Guerlain. 

By naming this perfume Atuana, Guerlain evoked images of the idyllic and untamed beauty of the Pacific, where lush landscapes and rich cultural traditions fascinated many in the Western world. The name "Atuana" itself seems derived from the island's name Atuona, and means "country" in Hawaiian, its pronunciation (ah-twah-nah) would likely have carried an air of mystery and allure for those unfamiliar with the region.

The word Atuana evokes vivid images of an exotic paradise, conjuring up visions of tropical islands with shimmering blue waters, white sand beaches, fragrant blooming flowers, and an intoxicating air of escape. Emotionally, it stirs up the romance of adventure, the allure of distant lands, and the desire for something rare and untouched by modernity. In scent, Atuana would be interpreted as an exotic blend of spices that carry the warmth and vibrancy of the tropics, softened by amber and vanilla, creating a sultry yet sophisticated fragrance.

The 1950s were a time of fascination with faraway lands and cultures, especially the South Seas. Films, fashions, and art from this period often depicted tropical settings as escapes from the mundane, romanticizing life in places like Tahiti, Hawaii, and the Marquesas Islands. The South Seas were seen as paradises untouched by the complications of modern life, offering both adventure and sensuality. This genre of exoticism became a huge influence on everything from the tiki bar craze to travel posters and, of course, perfumes. Atuana would have appealed to women of this era who were swept up in this wave of fascination with the "otherworldly" beauty of the Pacific, allowing them to indulge in the fantasy of travel and tropical luxury, even if only through the experience of fragrance.

Dawamesk by Guerlain c1942


In 1945, Guerlain reintroduced a fragrance initially named "Kriss" under the name "Dawamesk," an evocative title drawn from a historically rich and sensorially indulgent source. The word "Dawamesk" originates from Arabic, and refers to a green paste or baked confection that was consumed in ancient Near Eastern and Arabic cultures. This mixture, often described as a 'cannabis jam,' combined hashish with an array of luxurious ingredients like honey, butter, spices, and rose essence. Traditionally considered an aphrodisiac, it was said to inspire sensual pleasure and deep relaxation. It could be chewed, diluted in coffee or tea, or even incorporated into jellies. The very name conjures a heady blend of the exotic, forbidden, and sensuous, transporting the imagination to the richly perfumed markets of the Middle East, laden with spices, incense, and the warmth of opulent indulgence. Pronounced "Dah-wah-mesk," the name itself is imbued with a rhythmic, almost hypnotic quality that mirrors the sensory allure of its origins.

The word "Dawamesk" brings to mind vivid images of the ancient Near East and Arabic culture—hidden gardens filled with the intoxicating scent of spices, the luxurious tents of sultans adorned with silk and gold, where pleasures of all kinds were indulged. It evokes a sense of mystery, hedonism, and exotic allure, tinged with a slightly forbidden decadence. The emotions it stirs are those of warmth, sensuality, and a quiet yet powerful luxury. The fragrance interpretation of "Dawamesk" would follow this path—rich, deep, and complex, a blend of spices, musk, and florals that could easily feel at home in an Arabian Nights tale. Classified as an oriental fougère fragrance for women, its composition would surely offer an opulent warmth, grounded by woody and musky notes that reference the mystical, earthy quality of the original confection. The layers of sweet, spice-laden notes like nutmeg, cinnamon, and cardamom would be balanced by delicate floral touches of rose and a deep, balsamic base, mirroring the sensuous complexity of the perfume’s namesake.

For the women of the 1940s, the name "Dawamesk" would have offered a seductive escape into a world far removed from the austerity of post-war Europe. In a time when many sought relief from the harsh realities of a world just emerging from the shadows of World War II, the exoticism of the perfume’s name and its promise of luxury and sensuality would have been deeply appealing. The allure of the East had long captivated Western imaginations, and "Dawamesk," with its reference to ancient indulgences and aphrodisiacs, would have represented a welcome fantasy of pleasure and escape. A woman wearing Dawamesk would have felt as though she were channeling an exotic empress, adorned in silks and jewels, inhabiting a world of opulence and mystique.


Coque D'Or by Guerlain c1937

Coque d'Or by Guerlain, launched in 1937, was a sophisticated play on words, drawing its name and inspiration from the famous 1907 Rimsky-Korsakov opera, The Golden Cockerel (Le Coq d'Or). This Russian opera tells the story of King Dodon, a complacent ruler who receives a magical golden cockerel from an astrologer. The bird serves as a protector of his kingdom, crowing whenever danger is near. However, the king becomes captivated by the beauty of a mysterious queen and is led into chaos and ruin. The opera blends themes of illusion, fate, and power, creating a rich narrative that Jacques Guerlain sought to reflect in his perfume.

The name "Coque d'Or", from the French language, translates to "Golden Shell" (though it evokes the phonetic resemblance to "coq," meaning rooster, as in the opera’s title). It is pronounced "kok d'or", and the choice of words is deliberate and layered, tying back to the opera’s story of opulence, danger, and seduction. Guerlain, known for his deep appreciation of the arts, likely saw parallels between the tale of a doomed king and the elegance and allure that a perfume should embody.

The imagery that the phrase "Coque d'Or" conjures is one of shimmering, gilded beauty—a golden sheen or shell that conceals deeper emotions and desires. The perfume would have evoked images of glittering opulence, courtly intrigue, and the tension between indulgence and caution. For women of the late 1930s, "Coque d'Or" likely symbolized sophistication and allure, a fragrance that could envelop them in mystery and elegance, much like the golden cockerel that warned of danger while representing power and wealth.

When Coque d’Or was launched in 1937, the world was in a state of great change. Europe was on the brink of World War II, and many artists, writers, and creators were turning to history, myth, and fantasy as a way to grapple with the uncertainties of the time. Astronomy and astrology, which figure prominently in the opera’s plot, also influenced the art, film, fashion, and even perfumery of the period. The stars represented both a source of inspiration and a means of understanding fate and destiny—forces beyond human control. Guerlain’s choice to name his perfume after an opera rich in celestial symbolism reflects this fascination with the cosmos and its relationship to the unknown.

Vere Novo by Guerlain c1895

Vere Novo: created in 1895 by Jacques Guerlain. The name "Vere Novo" (Latin for Spring) is derived from the Victor Hugo poem, also titled, Vere Novo.





Pois de Senteur by Guerlain c1839

Guerlain’s Pois de Senteur, launched in 1839 and crafted by the renowned perfumer Jacques Guerlain, carries a name that is both intriguing and evocative. The term "Pois de Senteur" translates from French as "scented peas," a reference to the sweet-smelling pea flowers. This choice of name reflects Guerlain’s penchant for blending poetic imagery with olfactory artistry. The name conjures images of delicate, fragrant blossoms and evokes a sense of freshness and natural beauty, promising a scent that is both charming and refined.

The interpretation of Pois de Senteur in scent would likely focus on capturing the gentle, sweet aroma of pea flowers. The fragrance might feature soft, floral notes with subtle green undertones, reminiscent of a garden in full bloom. This would create a scent profile that feels both light and uplifting, offering a delicate balance between floral sweetness and the fresh, verdant quality of pea blossoms.

For women of the early 19th century, Pois de Senteur would have offered a refreshing alternative to the more intense fragrances of the time. The period was marked by a growing appreciation for subtlety and refinement in perfumery, driven by Romantic ideals that celebrated nature and simplicity. A fragrance named Pois de Senteur would have appealed to women seeking a scent that embodied natural elegance and understated beauty. The choice of such a name would suggest a preference for fragrances that reflected a delicate, almost whimsical quality, aligning with the era’s evolving tastes.

Launched in 1839, Pois de Senteur was introduced during a time when the art of perfumery was becoming increasingly sophisticated. The early 19th century saw a shift towards more intricate and nuanced fragrance compositions, influenced by Romanticism’s emphasis on nature and emotion. Guerlain’s Pois de Senteur captured these trends, offering a fragrance that celebrated the subtle beauty of natural elements while appealing to a refined sensibility. The perfume’s name and scent reflected the era’s fascination with elegance and the desire to evoke a sense of freshness and grace through scent.