Terracotta Voile d`Ete c1999

Terracotta Voile d`Ete by Guerlain: launched in 1999. Created by Mathilde Laurent based on the vintage formula of Quand Vient l'Été by Jacques Guerlain.

Petit Guerlain c2014

Petit Guerlain by Guerlain: reformulated by Thierry Wasser due to restrictions placed on the original's ingredients and relaunched in 2014.

Habit Rouge c1965

Habit Rouge: launched in 1965, created by Jean Paul Guerlain. Habit Rouge means 'red jacket' or 'hunting coat' and refers to professional equestrians' dark red jacket. The bottle was designed by Robert Granai.

Guet-Apens c1999

Guet-Apens: created in 1999 by Mathilde Laurent, as a limited edition.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a chypre fruity fragrance for women.

• Top notes: jasmine, tuberose, violet
• Middle notes: peach, rose
• Base notes: amber, musk, vetiver and vanilla

Bottle:

Presented in the 4 oz Lanterne flacon (eau de parfum).

Fate of the Fragrance:

Guet-Apens (discontinued), then reissued in 2002 as No.68 (discontinued), then reorchestrated and renamed Attrape Cœur in 2005 (discontinued) , then renamed and relaunched as Vol de Nuit Evasion in 2007 (discontinued), then launched again in 2014 as Royal Extract.

Liu by Guerlain c1929

Liu by Guerlain, launched in 1929 and created by Jacques Guerlain, draws its inspiration from the haunting beauty and tragic romance of Puccini's opera Turandot. In the opera, Liu is the name of a slave girl who plays a pivotal role in the dramatic love story. The plot of Turandot revolves around the cold and cruel Princess Turandot, who has vowed to remain unmarried unless a suitor can solve three riddles. Failure results in execution. Prince Calaf, entranced by her beauty, takes on the challenge. Liu, a slave girl deeply in love with Calaf, represents the tender heart of the opera. Her selfless devotion leads her to sacrifice her life for his, embodying unwavering loyalty and deep, tragic love.

The name Liu is taken from the opera's original Italian libretto, though the character and name have Chinese roots. Pronounced "LU," the name evokes simplicity, grace, and quiet strength. Liu, in the context of the opera, symbolizes purity, selflessness, and unrequited love, images that resonate through the ages. For a perfume, the name "Liu" conjures emotions of delicate elegance, soft femininity, and quiet power—traits that would have appealed to the women of the time, seeking a reflection of their own grace and inner strength.

Women of the late 1920s, emerging from the flapper era and the tumult of World War I, were embracing more freedom and confidence in their personal lives. A fragrance like Liu, named after a character who was at once loyal and tragically romantic, would evoke an air of mystery and tenderness. It allowed women to connect to something poetic and timeless, while also embracing a new era of modernity, where the art of scent was evolving rapidly. The name would have evoked imagery of far-off, exotic lands and timeless emotions, appealing to the sophisticated, worldly woman of the late 1920s.

In scent, Liu captures the essence of its namesake through its classification as an aldehydic floral. Aldehydes were seen as daring, fresh, and modern notes in perfumery at the time. Liu was Guerlain’s first fragrance to use aldehydes in such a bold measure, competing with other iconic aldehydic florals of the period, such as Chanel No. 5 (1921), Arpège by Lanvin (1927), L’Aimant by Coty (1927), and Evening in Paris by Bourjois (1929). These perfumes revolutionized the way women perceived scent—shifting from simple, single-note florals to more complex, sophisticated compositions. The aldehydes in Liu add a sparkling, almost abstract quality to the fragrance, opening it with a burst of brightness that feels crisp and effervescent, yet intangible, like a gleam of light or the soft shimmer of silk.

The 1920s were a time of innovation and excitement in many fields, including perfumery. Aldehydes, once considered experimental, became a symbol of modernity, giving fragrances a crystalline sharpness and a radiant lift that natural ingredients alone couldn't achieve. This innovation allowed perfumes to last longer on the skin, giving them an almost ethereal presence. For Liu, the aldehydes act as a vehicle to transport the wearer into an imagined world of elegance, art, and high romance, much like the opera that inspired it.

Parure c1975

Parure by Guerlain: launched in 1975. Created by Jean-Paul Guerlain with his mother in mind. It is a luxurious fragrance that evoked the richness and brilliance of the most precious jewels. Parure means a matching set - earrings and necklace.

Eau Hegemonienne c1880

L'Eau Hegemonienne: Created in 1880 by Aime Guerlain, it was a personal favorite of Isabella II of Spain, the mother of Alfonso XII, King of Spain, for whom it was created, additionally, the succeeding generations of the Spanish royal family.  It appears to have been available to the general public by 1890 and was created to be a tribute to the hegemonic international alliances between the world's greatest powers.

Apres L'Ondee by Guerlain c1906

Après L'Ondée by Guerlain, launched in 1906 and created by Jacques Guerlain, is a poetic and evocative name that perfectly reflects the inspiration behind the fragrance. In French, "Après L'Ondée" translates to "After the Shower" or "After the Rain," capturing the delicate and fleeting moment when the rain has passed, and nature begins to stir again under the warmth of the sun. Pronounced "AHPRAY-LUNDAY," the name itself conjures a sense of tranquility and renewal, a moment of peace after the storm. Jacques Guerlain, known for his love of nature and the emotional landscapes it evokes, likely chose this name to encapsulate the gentle beauty of a spring garden refreshed by rain—a theme of renewal, rebirth, and the fleeting beauty of life.

The phrase "Après L'Ondée" brings to mind soft images of a misty garden, where drops of rain still cling to flower petals and leaves, and the air is filled with the scent of wet earth, damp grass, and blooming flowers. It evokes a calm, reflective mood—perhaps a sense of nostalgia or longing—creating an atmosphere that is both serene and wistful. The perfume was inspired by the smell of nature after a spring rain, known as petrichor, and blends this natural scent with the warmth of flowers that have been gently kissed by the sun. The name itself stirs up emotions of freshness, purity, and a delicate sense of melancholy, capturing the beauty of transitory moments in nature and life.

In scent, Après L'Ondée is interpreted as soft, powdery, and floral, reflecting the freshness of a garden after a rain shower. Based on the formula for Voilette de Madame, it combines violet, iris, and heliotrope with hints of warm spice and subtle earthiness, representing the interplay between rain-drenched flowers and the return of sunshine. The fragrance evokes the clean, crisp smell of the air, touched with a light sweetness from the blooming flowers and a gentle warmth from the earth beneath. It captures both the freshness of rain and the comforting warmth that follows, creating a fragrance that feels ethereal yet grounded.

For women in the early 1900s, a perfume called Après L'Ondée would have likely evoked a romantic and poetic sentiment. This was a period of optimism and refinement, at the height of the Belle Époque, where art, culture, and beauty flourished. Women of the time were becoming more engaged with the emerging modern world, but they also held onto ideals of grace, nature, and beauty. A fragrance that drew from the imagery of nature and the beauty of a post-rain garden would have resonated with their desire for elegance, refinement, and emotional expression. The softness and naturalistic inspiration behind the fragrance would appeal to their appreciation for art, poetry, and the symbolic beauty of fleeting moments in life.

Sous Le Vent by Guerlain c1932

Sous le Vent, launched by Guerlain in 1932, was a perfume deeply inspired by the Caribbean and its sun-soaked, wind-swept landscapes. Its name, "Sous le Vent", which translates from French as "Under the Wind" or "Southern Breezes," captures the essence of the downwind breeze that blows through the Leeward Islands. Pronounced "SOO-LUH-VON", the name alone evokes images of warm, fragrant air, gently carrying the scents of mimosa blossoms, salty sea breezes, and the rich, sun-baked earth of the tropics. This perfume conjures the romance of travel and exotic escapes, of mimosa-covered hills and sandy shores kissed by the ocean's mist. It is a scent designed to carry the wearer far away, to distant lands where nature's beauty intertwines with the freedom of the wind.

The scent itself is an aromatic chypre, a category known for its complexity, often combining fresh citrus and herbaceous notes with earthy, mossy bases. Sous le Vent is infused with the lush, seductive sweetness of mimosa, a flower synonymous with the tropics, complemented by the fresh tang of woods and the salty spray of the sea air. These elements blend to create a fragrance that is both exotic and familiar, sensual yet grounding, much like the southern breeze it was named after. The inspiration for the perfume was drawn from a Caribbean cruise, which Jacques Guerlain had taken, sparking his imagination with the intoxicating landscapes and vibrant atmosphere of the region. The wind, laden with the scent of tropical flora and salty sea air, is captured in this perfume, evoking a sense of freedom and adventure. It carries with it the dream of escape and relaxation, far from the complexities of urban life.

The perfume's creation for Josephine Baker, an American-born French entertainer, adds yet another layer of depth to its story. Baker, famed for her glamorous stage presence and her embodiment of both freedom and sensuality, was a symbol of the Jazz Age's spirit of liberation. She was also deeply connected to France, where she became an icon, admired for her talent and her bold, unapologetic persona. Sous le Vent was designed to reflect Baker’s vivaciousness, her exotic allure, and her ability to enchant audiences. As a woman who often performed in extravagant, tropical-inspired costumes, such as her famous banana skirt, she represented a kind of liberated femininity that was both playful and powerful, qualities echoed in the perfume.

 

Ode c1955

Ode by Guerlain: launched in 1955, created by Jacques Guerlain with assistance of Jean-Paul Guerlain. This perfume is an ode to flowers, especially rose, it is Guerlain's answer to Jean Patou's exquisite Joy perfume and Lanvin's wildly popular Arpege.

Vol de Nuit by Guerlain c1933

Vol de Nuit by Guerlain, launched in 1933 and created by Jacques Guerlain, was inspired by the second novel of famed French aviator and author Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, titled Night Flight (Vol de Nuit in French). The perfume’s name encapsulates the romance, danger, and adventure of the early years of aviation. Saint-Exupéry’s novel is a poignant exploration of the human spirit set against the backdrop of the fledgling airline industry. The book follows the lives of pilots and their courageous night flights through perilous skies, managing the fear of the unknown and the isolation of the skies while navigating the emotional toll of separation from loved ones. It is a meditation on bravery, duty, and love, perfectly mirroring the feelings of soaring through the night, risking life, and reaching for the unreachable. The novel's deep emotional core made it a fitting inspiration for Guerlain to transform into a fragrance.

The word "Vol de Nuit" is French and translates to "Night Flight." Pronounced VOL-DUH-NEWEE, the name evokes images of dark skies, stars glimmering like jewels above a silent earth, and the hum of a plane cutting through the stillness. There is an undeniable sense of intrigue, elegance, and danger—qualities that speak to the allure of nighttime adventures in the early days of aviation. Women wearing this scent could imagine themselves part of this high-flying world, filled with mystery and anticipation. The name alone conjures emotions of excitement, longing, and the rush of exploration, feelings magnified by the glamour and exclusivity of air travel during that era.

As an oriental chypre fragrance, Vol de Nuit captures the essence of the novel’s atmosphere in scent. The fragrance opens with the bright, sharp hesperidic notes of citrus peel oils, reminiscent of the fresh, cool air as a plane ascends into the night sky. Blending seamlessly with these are dry mountain herbs like bay, marjoram, basil, rosemary, mint, and thyme, evoking the rugged landscapes of the world seen from above. The presence of lyre sage and mountain flowers like laurel and lavender lends an air of both untamed nature and tranquil beauty, balancing the more intense elements.

As the fragrance develops, it reveals a heart of florals such as jasmine, orange blossom, violets, narcissus, and roses. These flowers, potent and hypnotic, mirror the novel’s themes of love and tenderness amidst the harshness of flight. Dusty orris root and spices like nutmeg, coriander, and cinnamon add a warmth and richness, reminiscent of the heat of an aircraft’s cabin juxtaposed with the cold night air outside. Finally, the base notes—moss-covered oaks, exotic woods, myrrh, vanilla, and animalic notes of civet, musk, ambergris, and castoreum—are deeply grounding, evoking the earth far below and the primal pull of adventure.