Hello and welcome! Please understand that this website is not affiliated with Guerlain in any way, it is only a reference site for collectors and those who have enjoyed the classic fragrances of days gone by. All trademarks belong to their respective owners. The main objective of this website is to chronicle the 200+ year old history of the Guerlain fragrances and showcase the bottles and advertising used throughout the years. Let this site be your source for information on antique and vintage Guerlain perfumes. Another goal of this website is to show the present owners of the Guerlain company how much we miss many of the discontinued classics and hopefully, if they see that there is enough interest and demand, they will bring back these fragrances! I invite you to leave a comment below (for example: of why you liked the fragrance, describe the scent, time period or age you wore it, who gave it to you or on what occasion, what it smelled like to you, how it made you feel, any specific memories, what it reminded you of, maybe a relative wore it, or you remembered seeing the bottle on their vanity table), who knows, perhaps someone from the current Guerlain brand might see it. If you have any questions, please send all images of your bottle and pertinent information directly to me at cleopatrasboudoir@gmail.com. I will try to assist you the best I can.

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Monday, July 29, 2013

Rouge de la Cour by Guerlain c1910

Rouge de la Cour by Guerlain, introduced in the mid 19th century and was still being sold around 1910. This was sold as Court Rouge in the Guerlain catalogs, but was better known by the name rouge en tasse "pink saucers". It was item #434 in the Guerlain catalogs.

The pink saucers, also known as rouge de theatre, consisted of carthamus rouge (rouge vegetal) or carmine  mixed with a few drops of almond oil, and with mucilage of gum tragacanth, and spread upon porcelain or glass disks, which would have then be brushed on the cheeks with the fingers, a small puff, a piece of flannel, swab of cotton or a brush.

original image from a Guerlain catalog




photo by Lombrail-Teucquam


Cheek rouge, pressed into small glass pot. c1880-1915. Photo from imworld.aufeminin



Lait de Roses by Guerlain c1910

Lait de Roses ("Milk of Roses") 

This 1880s-1910 period skincare product was contained inside of a clear pressed glass bottle, created by Pochet et du Courval. The bottle was fitted with a cork covered with a black wax seal and held skin care "milks" or lotions such as Lait Virginal, Lait de Roses or Lait de Concombres. Notice the baroque label shown below. The bottle was available in two sizes:

  • Mould # 3755 held 5 ounces (approx. 153cc)
  • Mould # 6002 held 3 ounces (approx. 91cc)

 






A recipe from an 1848 formulary book is as follows:

Lait de rose dit Anglais:

You take:
  • 1 pound sweet almonds and
  • 4 lot (grams) of bitter almonds,

put both in a linen cloth and shake it around to dry them; Then take them to a mill, or if you don't have a mill, crush them in a stone mortar. When they are half crushed, let them melt in a glazed earthenware crucible in the Marienbad or over a gentle fire:
  • 2 Loth (grams) Walrath
  • 2 loths (grams) of maiden wax

While both substances are in the process of melting, add:
  • 2 lots of white soap cut into pieces.

After all three substances have properly melted together, leave a small portion of the ground almonds in the mortar, pour some of the melted mass over them and continue rubbing vigorously in order to completely combine the two. While rubbing, you then gradually add the remaining almonds and the remaining melted mass and continue rubbing until you see neither the almonds nor the spermaceti, but until everything has become completely one.

Then pour together into a bottle:
  • 2 measures of well water
  • 1/2 measure of strong rose water
  • 1/2 measure of strong wine spirit or rose spirit.

Mix all three liquids well together, gradually pour the mixture into the almond paste while stirring continuously and keep only a small amount of it for a use that will soon be specified. The diluted almond milk is then poured through a piece of pure and fine linen, but only in small portions, and the ground scrap is put aside for a while. When the straining is complete, put the ground mixture back into the mortar, rub it again and then dilute it with the teaspoon of water that you had reserved. Here you also squeeze the liquid through the linen wall and pour the milk to the other one.

Once this has been done, put a piece of muslin in four folds, give it the shape of a dute and put it in a funnel; Then strain the milk again through this muslin and it is ready.
 



The Ladies' Book of Etiquette, and Manual of Politeness: A Complete Handbook, 1872:

Creme Sid-Ous c1910

Creme Sid-Ous, a skin cream by Guerlain, created around 1910. This almond scented, white colored hand and face cream was still being sold in 1970 as Creme Sid'Ous.


photo by Lombrail-Teucquam










Guerlain Cream Jar c1800s

Rare cream or ointment jar, probably used in the Guerlain boutiques or at a an apothecary shop that sold Guerlain products, made up of cobalt blue glazed earthenware, handpainted in gilded enamel "Guerlain - 15 Rue de la Paix" - with its matching earthenware lid. Circa 1800s.

photo by Lombrail-Teucquam

Creme a la Fraise Pour le Teint c1880

Creme a la Fraise Pour le Teint c1880

"STRAWBERRY CREAM FOR THE FOUNDATION AND COVER"



By massaging a small amount of Crème à la Fraise, in a white porcelain jar with a small strawberry molded on the lid, this would moisturize and freshen the face.


Porcelain pot decorated with the Guerlain emblem of the "woman with flags" and titled "Guerlain Perfumer Patented SGDG" and "Rue de la Paix No. 15."

Circular lid, topped with a figural strawberry finial. Measures 2.36" diameter. Introduced in 1880. Marked on the bottom "A. Pillivuyt Foecy - Made in France".




photo by Lombrail -Teucquam



photo from an old ebay auction

Roselip by Guerlain, a tinted lip balm c1880-1910

Roselip, a lightly rose tinted lip balm housed in a tiny Sevres porcelain pot. It was available in two shades, a pink tint (#449), and a coral red tint (#450). This product was introduced around 1879/1880 and sold up until around 1910.

photo from original Guerlain catalog, the item on the left in the tin was Baume de la Ferte (#190), an ointment for chapped lips and nipples of mothers who were breastfeeding.






A popular recipe at the time, the rose lip pomade/balm/salve was made up of olive oil, whale oil, sweet almond oil, white wax, roses and Balsam of Peru.

from Perfumery and Kindred Arts: A Comprehensive Treatise on Perfumery, 1877




GUERLAIN "Rose Lip" - (1880) Rare small warehouse cylindrical
photo by drouot

Les Coeurs de Chamade c1999 Limited Edition

Les Coeurs de Chamade, a limited edition for Valentine's Day 1999. Chamade pour Homme was created as a masculine counterpart to the original Chamade, a woman's fragrance originally created in 1969.


Shalimar Scented Fan c1999 Limited Edition

This extremely rare Shalimar scented  folding fan was a 1999 limited edition item, which was probably a gift with purchase. The presentation box is made up of flocked midnight blue instead of the usual lilac hue associated with Shalimar. Notice the ornate design of the label on the box, this was also used for another limited edition item that came out that year, the alcohol-free Shalimar Silky Body Mist.





Shalimar Parfum and Eau de Cologne Sets c1950s-1970s

Shalimar Parfum and Eau de Cologne Sets c1950s-1970s

"Shalimar" - (c1970s) Made for the Canadian export, boxed set including a bottle of parfum extrait and a bottle of cologne with gilded stopper. Top:. 11 cm and 7.5 cm.

photo by Lombrail-Teucquam




"Shalimar" (c1960s) Box containing a bottle model shows two-tone orange and white label titled "Guerlain Shalimar Eau de Cologne" and a bottle bag, label titled tassel, golden cap. In his cabinet to brace, titled. H: 14.4 cm (model shows) and H: 7.5 cm (model bottle bag).


Photo by Neret-Minet Tessier.

Guerlain c1906

Harper's Weekly, Volume 50, 1906:

"PARISIAN SKETCHES - RUE DE LA PAIX 

Rue de la Paix! A magic name which by itself evokes all the marvels of elegance, art, and good taste, and to the glare of which all the pretty butterflies - the strangers - come to burn their wings, glittering symbol, the reflections of which, like the lustre of an incomparable diamond, fascinate the "elegantes" of the whole world. And who has created this repute! 
It is all due to those firms which, through their products have established this impeccable repute, and imposed names that are bound to be handed down to posterity. London, New York, Berlin, Vienna, St Petersburg, and so many other capitals will strive to rob Paris of the secret by which it attracts strangers: there will never be but one Rue de la Paix.

The old established firms, and we quote them at random - Au Coc, Cuvillier, Doucet, Guerlain, Mellerio, Worth, - and others have given by their taste and the excellence of their manufacture such value and notoriety to this famous Rue de la Paix that a curious exodus of industries has been witnessed: the jewellers abandoned the Palais Royal, the perfumers left the eccentric quarters, and those very ones who, up till then, had dreamed of but large figures, have felt compelled to come and establish themselves, at a great cost, in that selfsame Rue de la Paix, in the hopes that within the pall of the standard brands, their products would enjoy abroad the privileges attached to that name of world-wide repute.

Let us take an example at random which applies to all these old names: was there ever in any part of the globe a new and delicate perfume which puzzled you, you could hear this sentence. "Here is a perfume that surely comes from the Perfumer of Rue de la Paix," and neither name nor address were given; every one knew that it came from Guerlain's. 
In the affluence of competitors, it may perhaps soon become impossible to content one's self with the indication of the profession, the standard brands will have to defend their name, the "elegante" will require to add that, if her lace is delightfully scented, it is to Guerlain she owes it, although Guerlain's perfumes bear their true signature - so the Parisiennes tell us in their delicate subtility!"


Flacon Persane c1900

Extremely rare bottle created by Pochet et du Courval to hold Guerlain's eau de toilettes, first used around 1900. Mould No. 12088. Based on a 17th century Persian perfume flacon in the Guerlain family collection. On one side signed "HP" on the other side "Depose" and under the base "Guerlain Paris."

It held Esprit de Fleurs de Cedrat, and  other fragrances.

Stands 21cm/8.26" tall.




  
 
 

Flacon Brun Fume (Brown Smoke) c1933 -?

Flacon Brun Fume (Brown Smoke) c1933 -?


Flacon designed by Raymond Guerlain and made by Baccarat to hold extraits of Candide Effluve, A Travers Champs and Guerlinade.  Baccarat flacon #744.