Fol Arome by Guerlain c1912

Fol Arome, launched by Guerlain in 1912 and created by Jacques Guerlain, evokes a sense of adventure, luxury, and exoticism through its name and scent profile. The name "Fol Arome" comes from the French language, and can be loosely translated as "crazy aroma" or "mad fragrance." Pronounced fol ah-ROHM, the phrase combines the whimsical idea of something wild and untamed with the sophisticated world of fragrance, suggesting an intoxicating and heady blend. The name itself conjures images of vibrant, unrestrained nature, rich with unexpected, alluring scents, promising an experience that is both daring and captivating.

In terms of scent, Fol Arome would have been interpreted as a lush, exotic floral bouquet, warmed by aromatic spices and deep, tropical woods. Classified as a warm, aromatic floral fragrance, it was designed to convey the richness of tropical landscapes, filled with heady blossoms and the grounding scent of exotic woods. Women of the 1912 era, many of whom were embracing more freedom in their fashion and lifestyle choices, would have related to Fol Arome as an expression of luxury and a reflection of the world’s increasing fascination with far-flung places. This was a time when society was becoming more globalized, and exotic elements—whether in fashion, travel, or scent—became symbols of sophistication and worldliness.

During the early 20th century, when Fol Arome was launched, tropical flowers and woods were seen as rare and precious, adding a sense of opulence to any fragrance. The inclusion of ingredients like tropical woods, sandalwood, and exotic florals would have felt indulgent and refined to women who desired to evoke the mystique of distant lands. Tropical woods like cinnamon and bois de rose (rosewood) from French Guiana, known for their rich, aromatic warmth, were considered luxurious materials in perfumery. These ingredients would have been sourced from colonies and trade routes in places like the Caribbean, India, Southeast Asia, and South America, emphasizing the exclusivity of the scent.

The warm perfume of Fol Arome, with its tropical notes, would have been reminiscent of fruits like pineapple or banana—fruits that evoke a sense of heat, lushness, and indulgence compared to more commonly known scents like apple. The exotic woods would ground the perfume with deep, resinous tones, creating a contrast between the bright, sweet florals and the earthy base. The combination of spices like pepper and cinnamon would have added a lively, slightly fiery quality to the perfume, balancing the sweetness with warmth and complexity.

At the time of its launch, Fol Arome would have spoken to women who were embracing modernity, yet still appreciating the traditional values of elegance and luxury. The choice of tropical flowers and woods reflects the period’s fascination with the exotic and the unknown. The blend of warm, rich ingredients in Fol Arome would have offered a scent that felt like a journey to distant lands—both tantalizing and grounding, making it an ideal fragrance for women looking to project a sense of adventure and refinement.

c1918 ad

Fragrance Composition:

What does it smell like? It is classified as a warm, aromatic floral fragrance for women. It was described as a warm perfume of tropical flowers and woods.

• Top notes: jasmine, anise, lavender, bergamot, cinnamon, green pepper
• Middle notes: jasmine, daffodil, rose, bouvardia, mint, clary sage, marjoram, orris, pepper
• Base notes: French Guiana bois du rose, sandalwood, musk, carnation, sweet acacia, vanilla

Evening Star, 1913:

'"Rue de la Paix is softly sweet, restful, nothing pungent, but haunting and even makes a crave. Costs $5 for the smallest bottle, of scarcely seventy grams liquid contents. Guerlain's 'Fol Arome' is a perfume of flowers, but of what you would call tropical flowers. It is a warm perfume, as a pineapple or banana compared to an apple. There are also tropical woods in it, cinnamon, sandalwood, aromatics like pepper, and green peppers and bois du rose, not what we called rosewood, but an odorous wood, very light, from French Guiana. The elder Guerlain says that they have several tropical essences which are a secret of their house."

Scent Profile:

As I breathe in the original formula of Fol Arome, I’m immediately enveloped by an intricate, captivating blend of warm tropical florals and woods, each note unfolding to reveal its own story.

The top notes rush forward with a heady burst of jasmine, intoxicatingly sweet and rich, evoking the scent of night-blooming flowers heavy with dew. Intertwined with this is the familiar crispness of bergamot, bright and citrusy, giving a sense of freshness that balances the depth of the florals. Anise offers an unexpected twist, its licorice-like spice adding a slightly cool, aromatic lift that plays off the deeper tones of lavender, soft and herbaceous. 

Just as I think I’ve identified the lavender, the warmth of cinnamon wraps around me, its cozy spice blending seamlessly with the vibrant, sharp bite of green pepper—a lively and piquant surprise that punctuates the sweetness with a bold green edge.

As the fragrance unfolds, the middle notes reveal themselves, creating a floral heart that blooms in layers. The jasmine continues to weave through, its sensuality deepening with the addition of daffodil—a sweet, narcotic note that adds richness and depth. There’s a flutter of delicate rose, soft yet commanding, harmonizing with the exotic allure of bouvardia, which brings a powdery sweetness. 

Yet, there’s also a coolness that cuts through the florals, the unmistakable hint of mint lending a fresh, crisp quality that feels almost effervescent. This freshness is tempered by the herbaceous tones of clary sage and the green, slightly spicy marjoram, grounding the heart of the fragrance in earthiness. Orris emerges with its velvety, powdery aroma, lending a creamy smoothness to the bouquet, while the warmth of pepper returns, this time less sharp but still offering a dry heat that contrasts with the florals.

Finally, the base notes anchor Fol Arome, deepening the perfume with rich woods and resins. The warm, soft scent of bois du rose, a light, aromatic wood from French Guiana, adds an exotic touch, mingling with the creamy, rich scent of sandalwood. The two woods together evoke the sensation of being surrounded by tropical forests, their scent thick and resinous in the humid air. 

The animalic warmth of musk pulses underneath, blending with the spicy, clove-like scent of carnation, which offers a faint sharpness. There’s a sweetness too, from sweet acacia, its honeyed floral notes infusing the fragrance with a gentle warmth, and vanilla, creamy and smooth, adding a soft, comforting sweetness that lingers like the sun setting on a tropical evening, the warmth of the day slowly fading but leaving traces of its heat on the skin.

Together, the ingredients of Fol Arome create a rich, multi-layered experience—each note evolving and blending into the next, capturing the essence of a warm, aromatic floral fragrance that transports me to a lush, tropical paradise filled with the heady scent of flowers, spices, and exotic woods.

Bottles:

Presented in a ‘Bouchon Cœur’ bottle (parfum) in various sizes made by Cristalleries de Baccarat. 

Also sold in the quadrilobe flacon (parfum), empire flacon (parfum), and the Goutte flacon (eau de toilette), flacon Mauresque (parfum), flacon vinaigrier ottoman (parfum). I believe it may have also been available in the Montre flacon (eau de cologne).

Fol Arome - (1912) Extremely rare and exceptional bottle decanter-style "Vinaigrier Ottoman" colorless glass molded pressed cylindrical section, the lobed bulbous belly, high funnel neck, richly decorated with polychrome painted designs of oriental hand stopper olive red and blue painted richly accented with gold, edited by Pochet et du Courval glassware. Model available at that time on special order. Top:. 21 cm. Photo by Lombrail-Teucquam

Fate of the Fragrance:

Fol Arome remained a presence in the perfume world for several decades, with a notable history of continued sales and relaunches. By 1941, it was still available, demonstrating its lasting appeal and relevance even in a period marked by global turmoil and the onset of World War II. The fact that it continued to be sold during such challenging times speaks to the enduring quality of the fragrance and its connection to the women who favored it. Perfumes, during wartime, were often seen as small luxuries that provided comfort and an escape from the harsh realities of life. For Fol Arome to maintain its place during this period indicates that it was cherished by its users, offering a sense of warmth and beauty.

In 1947, Guerlain chose to re-launch the original Fol Arome, likely introducing it to a post-war audience eager for new beginnings and a return to the refined elegance that had been disrupted by the war years. This reintroduction of the perfume allowed a new generation of women to experience its tropical warmth and exotic florals, which might have evoked a sense of nostalgia for the world as it once was or provided a window into an idealized, more peaceful future. The re-launch, coming during an era of recovery and renewed optimism, allowed Fol Arome to reclaim its place as a beloved, warm aromatic fragrance for women, blending familiar tradition with a fresh post-war sensibility.

By 1953, Fol Arome was still being sold, highlighting its lasting popularity even as the world entered a new decade of modernity and change. The perfume’s ability to remain relevant through the rapidly shifting trends of the mid-20th century illustrates its timeless nature, appealing across generations. Whether as a fragrant connection to the past or a continued symbol of tropical allure and sophistication, Fol Arome had firmly established itself as a fragrance that withstood the test of time.

2020 Reformulation & Relaunch:

In 2020, Thierry Wasser, Guerlain’s master perfumer, reimagined the historic fragrance Fol Arome, breathing new life into the original 1912 formula with modern ingredients. This exquisite recreation retained the warm, floral heart of the classic scent while incorporating contemporary notes to appeal to modern sensibilities. The fragrance, meticulously crafted, was released in an extremely limited run of just 954 examples, making it as much a collector’s item as a sensory experience. 

Packaged in the iconic Baccarat bouchon cœur flacon, with its elegant, heart-shaped stopper, the perfume radiated luxury from the moment it was unveiled, retailing at $800 USD. This rare edition quickly sold out, leaving Fol Arome discontinued once again, now remembered as an ephemeral treasure in the history of Guerlain.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women. 

• Top notes: lavender, bergamot, peach and mint
• Middle notes: sage, jasmine, narcissus and Grasse rose
• Base notes: orris, carnation, powdery notes, vanilla and acacia

Scent Profile:

Upon the first spritz of this 2020 reinterpretation, you are greeted by an aromatic burst of lavender and bergamot, both herbaceous and refreshing, setting a light yet complex introduction. The soft sweetness of peach adds a delicate, fruity juiciness, while mint contributes a cool, invigorating sharpness, balancing the floral and fruity tones with a green, herbal freshness. 

As the fragrance evolves, the heart emerges, introducing sage, which imparts a subtle earthy, slightly peppery tone, blending beautifully with the powdery, heady opulence of jasmine. The rich, narcotic notes of narcissus and the elegance of Grasse rose follow, adding layers of depth, with their timeless floral intensity capturing the essence of both nature and luxury.

The base notes, rich and grounding, unfold gradually. Orris, with its powdery, violet-like texture, intertwines with carnation, which lends a spicy floral sharpness, contrasting beautifully with the creamy warmth of vanilla. Acacia adds a touch of sweetness, but with a subtle, woody nuance that complements the powdery and resinous aspects of the scent. Together, these ingredients create a soft, powdery finish, wrapped in the comforting embrace of vintage elegance but with a modern twist.

The limited reissue of Fol Arome was a tribute to both Guerlain’s storied past and Thierry Wasser’s mastery of modern perfumery. Its fleeting availability and the exclusivity of the Baccarat crystal flacon made it a highly coveted piece among collectors and fragrance lovers alike. Though discontinued after selling out, this 2020 edition of Fol Arome is remembered for its delicate balance between floral, fruity, and powdery notes, capturing the essence of Guerlain’s legacy in a modern world.