Sillage by Guerlain c1907

Launched in 1906 and introduced to the U.S. in 1907, Sillage by Guerlain was the creation of master perfumer Jacques Guerlain. The name "Sillage," chosen deliberately, carries a poetic and evocative meaning in French. The word "sillage" itself has a dual significance: it refers to both the wake left behind by a ship as it moves through water and, in the context of fragrance, the trail of scent that lingers in the air as someone walks by. This imagery is both powerful and suggestive, conjuring feelings of mystery, allure, and an enduring presence.

In the realm of fragrance, "sillage" captures the essence of a perfume that remains long after the wearer has passed, leaving a subtle yet memorable reminder of their presence. This name would have appealed to early 20th-century consumers who desired a perfume that communicated elegance and sophistication, evoking both the visual imagery of a graceful ship slicing through water and the invisible yet tangible memory of a lingering scent.

At the time of Sillage’s launch, the world was experiencing rapid industrial growth, and society was moving towards modernity. Women were beginning to assert their independence, navigating a world still dominated by traditional values but with a burgeoning sense of freedom and autonomy. A perfume called "Sillage" would have resonated deeply with women of the era, symbolizing not only their desire for refinement but also their wish to leave a lasting impression in an evolving social landscape. The idea of a fragrance that lingered in the air, trailing behind them as they moved through life, would have held a particular allure, blending romanticism with a modern sense of presence.

Originally crafted as a fragrance for men, Sillage was later adapted for women, its composition evolving to fit the sensibilities of both genders. It is classified as a musky floral fragrance, blending the purity of white flowers with the richness of leather, musk, and woodsy notes, grounded in the signature Guerlinade accord. Later iterations included aldehydes in the top notes, adding a sparkling freshness to the scent. For women of the early 20th century, this sophisticated yet dynamic blend of elements would have symbolized strength and femininity, a reflection of their growing independence during an era of social change.

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like?  It is classified as a musky floral fragrance for women. White flowers over the Guerlinade accord with leather, musk and woodsy notes. Later editions included aldehydes in the top notes.

• Top notes: aromatic notes, Egyptian jasmine, Calabrian bergamot, Tunisian orange
• Middle notes: Grasse jasmine, Grasse rose, Zanzibar clove, tuberose, Nossi-Be ylang ylang, leather, spices, Abyssinian civet, Tonkin deer musk
• Base notes: Tibetan musk, ambergris, Venezuelan tonka bean, Mysore sandalwood

 

La Vielle Lumiere, 1909:

"Perfumery at that time was far from what it is now, and Guerlain was the promoter of the items that we ... his new creations: Jicky, Apres L'Ondee, Sillage, are fashionable TODAY."

The Times-Democrat, 1913:

"Guerlain's Sillage, a refined and lasting man's perfume of the $3 series, has a basis of Oriental odorous wood, growing in a certain limited district, discovered by the grandfather. Its importation is a secret. M. Guerlain pere has frequently been heard to say that when the wood of that little district is used up, there will be no more "Sillage."

 

Scent Profile:

As I lift the bottle of Sillage and take in the first breath, the top notes reveal a fresh and intoxicating burst of aromas. The aromatic notes open with an energizing sharpness, like the cool morning air, immediately softened by the lush, exotic sweetness of Egyptian jasmine. 

This jasmine exudes warmth and sensuality, mingling with the zest of Calabrian bergamot—its citrusy brightness adds a sunlit sparkle that dances over the surface of the scent. The richness of Tunisian orange deepens the citrus, giving it a syrupy, floral edge that feels both refreshing and grounding.

As the fragrance settles into the middle notes, the heart of the perfume reveals its opulent floral bouquet. Grasse jasmine, grown in the sun-drenched fields of southern France, emerges with its signature creaminess, lending a narcotic allure. Grasse rose follows, full-bodied and velvety, carrying a classic elegance. 

Together, these florals create an intoxicating mix of sweetness and warmth. The addition of tuberose, with its heady, almost tropical richness, amplifies the seductive nature of the fragrance, while Nossi-Be ylang ylang from Madagascar adds a deep, golden floral note, like sun-soaked petals basking in the heat.

Suddenly, the floral tones are tempered by unexpected layers of spice. Zanzibar clove adds a warm, peppery heat, its spiced sweetness cutting through the softness of the florals. These spices blend with an earthy, slightly animalistic leather accord, a smooth yet rugged quality that intertwines with Abyssinian civet and Tonkin deer musk. These animalic notes introduce a sense of primal depth—civet offers a musky warmth, while the rare Tonkin musk heightens the sensual nature of the composition, making it raw yet refined.

As the fragrance fades to its base notes, a new richness unfolds. Tibetan musk lends a soft, enveloping warmth, merging effortlessly with the salty, oceanic touch of ambergris. The ambergris is almost ethereal, reminiscent of sun-baked skin and sea air. 

Venezuelan tonka bean adds a creamy, slightly sweet finish, with hints of vanilla and almond that soften the musk and florals, while Mysore sandalwood anchors the entire composition with its smooth, woody richness. This sandalwood is buttery and slightly smoky, giving the fragrance a velvety finish that lingers, deeply comforting yet exotically mysterious.

Each note blends seamlessly into the next, creating a complex yet harmonious scent. From the crisp top to the spicy floral heart, and the warm, musky base, Sillage is a sensory journey that feels timeless—leaving a trail that lingers long after the wearer has moved through a room.

Bottles:

Sillage was housed in the exquisite "Empire" flacon, a bottle designed by the renowned glassmakers Pochet et du Courval. This bottle drew its inspiration from the enchanting world of the "Winter Circus," a renowned Parisian venue that evoked an air of opulence, spectacle, and carefree revelry. The Winter Circus, or "Cirque d'Hiver," was a grand 19th-century theater that dazzled audiences with its breathtaking performances and lavish interiors. In its time, it represented not just the thrill of the circus but the allure of an extravagant night out, a fashionable destination for Parisians to immerse themselves in a world of vibrant entertainment and elegance.

The Empire flacon, with its regal lines and luxurious craftsmanship, captures the essence of this glamorous setting. Its shape and details mimic the theatrical grandeur of the Winter Circus, evoking the same sense of wonder and exuberance. The bottle itself becomes a piece of art, mirroring the indulgence and sophistication of the Parisian theater scene, perfect for a perfume that promised to leave an unforgettable trace, just as the magical nights at the Winter Circus did for its audience.

It was also available in the Goutte flacon (eau de toilette) in 4 oz and 8 oz.

Fate of the Fragrance:

I don't know when the perfume was discontinued, but it was still being sold in 1941.