Ambre by Guerlain c1839

In 1839, Pierre-François Pascal Guerlain chose the name "Ambré" for his fragrance, reflecting the deep allure of ambergris. The term "Ambré" is derived from the French word for amber, which itself comes from the Arabic "anbar," referring to ambergris, a rare and highly prized material in perfumery. The name evokes images of warm, golden hues and the richness of ancient treasures, suggesting a fragrance that embodies luxury and opulence. The word "Ambré" conjures the allure of deep, resinous warmth, hinting at a scent that is both sensual and enduring.

In scent, "Ambré" captures the essence of ambergris with its complex, rich, and somewhat animalic character. Ambergris, known for its sweet, musky, and slightly marine quality, imparts a warm, resinous depth to the fragrance. The scent of ambergris is both exotic and comforting, evoking the sensation of sunlit amber stones warmed by the ocean, blending the tactile warmth of amber with the deep, mysterious undertones of the sea.

For women of the 19th century, a perfume named "Ambré" would have been particularly appealing as it signified an exotic and luxurious olfactory experience. During this period, perfumes were often a symbol of sophistication and social status, and the inclusion of ambergris, a rare ingredient associated with the wealthy elite, would have reinforced the perfume's prestige and exclusivity. Women who wore "Ambré" would have embraced a fragrance that was not only a statement of their refined taste but also an emblem of their connection to the latest in perfume innovation.

The 19th century was a time of significant advancements in the perfume industry, with the introduction of new ingredients and techniques. Guerlain's "Ambré" emerged in an era when natural extracts and animalics were highly valued, and the use of ambergris would have been seen as both modern and luxurious. As the century progressed, the increasing sophistication of synthetic materials began to influence perfumery, but the allure of traditional, natural ingredients like ambergris continued to captivate and inspire.

Fragrance Composition :

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an oriental perfume with notes of pure ambergris tincture, balsamic notes and precious dry woods

• Top notes: geranium, ambergris tincture, reseda
• Middle notes: incense, resins, sandalwood, rose, jasmine, ambergris
• Base notes: ambergris, styrax, vanilla, musk, patchouli, labdanum, balsamic notes, benzoin and orris

 

Scent Profile:

As you experience Ambre, you are first greeted by a burst of vibrant geranium, its crisp, green edges infused with a hint of spicy warmth. This initial impression is artfully layered with the unmistakable depth of ambergris tincture, which introduces a rich, oceanic musk with hints of smoky sweetness, adding an enigmatic allure. 

The fresh, floral sweetness of reseda subtly intertwines with these top notes, imparting a soft, almost ethereal quality that prepares you for the fragrance's deeper complexities.

As the scent unfolds, the heart reveals a resplendent blend of incense and resins. The incense envelops you in its smoky, meditative embrace, evoking the sacred atmosphere of ancient temples. This is harmoniously complemented by the warm, creamy richness of sandalwood, which weaves through the heart with a smooth, woody elegance. 

The addition of rose and jasmine adds a lush, floral opulence, their velvety petals contributing a sense of romance and sophistication. The ambergris continues to resonate through the middle notes, its complex blend of musky, salty sweetness grounding the floral and resinous layers.

In the base, the fragrance reaches its full, luxurious depth. The ambergris returns, now more pronounced, with its warm, slightly animalic presence melding seamlessly with the balsamic richness of styrax and vanilla. The vanilla adds a creamy, sweet softness that contrasts beautifully with the resinous, smoky tones of labdanum and benzoin. 

Musk and patchouli enhance the scent's depth with their earthy, sensual undertones, while orris lends a delicate, powdery finish that smooths out the base notes with a refined, sophisticated touch. The result is a captivating and enduring oriental perfume that envelops you in its warm, rich embrace, leaving a trail of deep, resinous sweetness and soft, woody elegance.

Fashion, 1839

"Guerlain crafted his fragrances with an artistry that evoked both the fleeting pleasures and the illusions of the floral season. His creations aimed to make such scents indispensable once more, reminiscent of the elegance of the Louis XV era. However, it should not be assumed that Guerlain was merely boasting about his talent. In honoring the traditions of Musk and Amber, Guerlain was not merely revisiting the past but striving to reinvent it.

Today, we seek not just the historical references but specific, memorable fragrances like the Bouquet de Victoria and the Bouquet de Chantilly —scents that capture the essence of blooming gardens and offer a unique olfactory experience. Modern offerings, such as the Gowland lotion and Cydonia cream, are incomparable to the sophisticated artistry of Guerlain's creations."

Bottles:

It was housed in the Carre flacon.

Photo by basenotes member Griff

(This Was in bottle Production from 1879 Guerlain goal Moved to 68 Champs Elysee's just before the first world war. So this dates it anywhere entre 1914 and the late 1930s.)

Fate of the Fragrance:

Ambre, originally launched by Guerlain in 1839, was a fragrance that captivated the senses with its luxurious blend of ambergris and exotic resins. The perfume's original release marked a significant moment in the early 19th century, showcasing Guerlain's pioneering spirit in the realm of oriental scents. Its composition, rich with the deep, warm notes of ambergris, sandalwood, and balsamic resins, captured the essence of an era that prized opulent and sophisticated fragrances.

Despite its early success, Ambre eventually fell out of favor and was discontinued, with the exact date of its withdrawal remaining unclear. Its allure, however, did not fade entirely from the annals of fragrance history. The perfume was briefly revived between 1910 and 1920, a period marked by a renewed interest in classic scents and a fascination with historical olfactory traditions. This revival sought to reintroduce Ambre to a new generation of fragrance enthusiasts, rekindling the spirit of the original while adapting to the evolving tastes of the early 20th century.

Unfortunately, the second iteration of Ambre was also short-lived. It was discontinued once more, disappearing from the perfume market and leaving behind only traces of its once-celebrated presence. Today, Ambre stands as a testament to Guerlain's enduring legacy and the ever-changing nature of the perfume industry, its fleeting existence a reminder of the ephemeral beauty of classic fragrances.