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Saturday, February 2, 2013

White Rose by Guerlain c1850

Launched in 1850, Guerlain’s Rose Blanche epitomizes the delicate elegance associated with its name. The title, “Rose Blanche,” derives from the French language, meaning "White Rose," evoking images of purity and refinement. The white rose itself is a symbol of purity, innocence, and grace, qualities that Guerlain sought to encapsulate in this fragrance. The choice of such a name reflects a desire to convey a sense of understated beauty and sophistication, resonating deeply with the refined sensibilities of the mid-19th century.

In its olfactory profile, White Rose is described as capturing the essence of freshly picked roses, reminiscent of a bloom harvested just hours earlier from an English garden. The scent is a pristine representation of the rose’s natural fragrance, suggesting an experience of walking through a garden where the roses are in their prime, exuding a fresh, dewy aroma. This portrayal aligns with the sentiment of the time, where natural beauty and elegance were highly cherished.

Women of the period would have been particularly drawn to White Rose for its embodiment of refined floral purity. In an era where elaborate and opulent fragrances were prevalent, Guerlain’s choice to highlight the simple, yet luxurious scent of freshly picked roses would have offered a refreshing contrast. The 19th century was a time when fragrances were becoming more sophisticated, moving from heavily animalic and complex compositions to lighter, more refined floral scents. Guerlain’s White Rose aligned with this trend, offering a pure and classic fragrance experience.

During its launch in 1850, White Rose would have been among the fragrances featured in various perfumery manuals and pharmacopeias, reflecting the growing interest in and appreciation for delicate floral bouquets. The fragrance's composition would have initially relied on natural extracts and tinctures, but as the century progressed, the use of newly discovered synthetics began to influence perfume creation. White Rose thus represents a bridge between traditional natural perfumery and the emerging innovations of the time.

Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fresh floral fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: bergamot, hyacinth, verbena, Bourbon geranium, lilac, cassie, neroli, petitgrain, sweet orange
  • Middle notes: rose absolute, clove, carnation, heliotrope, rose oil, violet, jasmine, tuberose
  • Base notes: musk, orris, oakmoss, patchouli, sandalwood, benzoin, cedar, ambergris, tolu, civet
 

Scent Profile:


The initial impression of White Rose is a symphony of fresh, citrus-infused floral notes that greet you with a burst of vibrant energy. As you inhale, the zesty brightness of bergamot and the crispness of sweet orange dance together, their citrusy sparkle enhancing the delicate layers that follow. The uplifting aroma of hyacinth unfurls, mingling with the tangy freshness of verbena, which adds a hint of herbal zest. 

The blend of Bourbon geranium and lilac offers a soft, green floral quality, while the warm, honeyed undertones of cassie and the crisp, invigorating touch of neroli create a harmonious, multi-faceted opening. Petitgrain's slightly woody and citrusy nuances round out the top notes, setting the stage for a more complex floral heart.

As the fragrance evolves, the middle notes unfold with the deep, sumptuous aroma of rose absolute and rose oil, enveloping you in a rich, velvety embrace. This heart is further enriched by the spicy warmth of clove and the floral complexity of carnation, which adds a touch of opulence. 

Heliotrope's sweet, almond-like scent intertwines with the subtle powderiness of violet, creating a nuanced, delicate bouquet. Jasmine and tuberose contribute their lush, intoxicating qualities, adding depth and sophistication to the heart of the fragrance. Each note weaves together seamlessly, evoking the image of a lavish garden in full bloom.

The base notes provide a grounding and enduring finish to the fragrance. The warmth of musk and the creamy, smooth scent of orris blend effortlessly with the earthy richness of oakmoss and the rich, aromatic complexity of patchouli. Sandalwood adds a velvety, woody undertone, while benzoin and tolu impart a resinous, balsamic sweetness. 

Cedar’s dry, woody nuances enhance the fragrance’s depth, while the distinct marine and slightly animalic aroma of ambergris adds an intriguing touch of elegance. Civet rounds out the base with its musky, animalic character, offering a subtle hint of sensuality.

White Rose thus captures the essence of a timeless floral elegance, with each ingredient contributing to a beautifully balanced and sophisticated olfactory experience.


Revue Illustre,1887:
"M. Guerlain, the renowned perfumer of high society, whose expertise comes from long and meticulous studies... Young ladies will prefer the White Rose; with a hint of verbena."

Bottles:

Housed inside the Carre flacon.











Fate of the Fragrance:

White Rose by Guerlain was first introduced in 1850, capturing the essence of a fresh, floral fragrance. Its initial run was marked by its popularity, but details regarding its discontinuation remain unclear. By 1899, White Rose was still available, continuing to charm fragrance enthusiasts with its delicate bouquet.

In 1904, Guerlain decided to relaunch White Rose, likely in response to the evolving tastes and advancements in perfumery. This relaunch would have incorporated the newly discovered synthetic ingredients of the time, enhancing the fragrance's profile and longevity. The addition of these synthetics not only updated the perfume but also aligned it with contemporary trends.

The final significant update to White Rose came in the 1920s, when sparkling aldehydes were introduced into the composition. This incorporation of aldehydes gave the perfume a modern twist, adding a fresh, effervescent quality that was characteristic of many fragrances from that era. The evolution of White Rose from its initial launch to its relaunch and subsequent updates reflects Guerlain's commitment to innovation while maintaining the classic elegance of the original scent.

You can purchase a bottle from my good friend Alexandra Star.

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