Bouquet de Marie Christine by Guerlain c1885

Bouquet de Marie Christine, launched around 1885, is a fragrance steeped in regal significance and historical context. The name, "Bouquet de Marie Christine," translates from French to "Bouquet of Marie Christine." This title directly references Maria Cristina of Austria, who was not only a prominent figure in European royalty but also a symbol of transitional power in Spain. As Queen Consort alongside her husband, Alfonso XII, and later as Queen Regent during the interregnum following his death in 1885, Maria Cristina played a crucial role in Spanish history.

The choice of name evokes a rich tapestry of images and emotions. "Bouquet" suggests a carefully curated arrangement of flowers, indicative of sophistication and elegance. The addition of "Marie Christine" personalizes this bouquet, linking it to a specific individual whose life and influence marked a significant historical moment. The fragrance thus carries with it the weight of royal grandeur and personal homage.

In terms of scent, "Bouquet de Marie Christine" would be interpreted as a composition reflecting the refined and noble qualities associated with the Queen. The fragrance likely captures the essence of her regal presence through a complex, opulent blend of floral notes, possibly accompanied by richer, more luxurious base elements. This combination would evoke the sophisticated and cultivated nature of Maria Cristina, while also paying tribute to her elevated status.

Women of the period, who were often closely attuned to the latest trends and influences from the court, would have seen "Bouquet de Marie Christine" as a symbol of high society and refined taste. The perfume would be more than just a scent; it would be an embodiment of the elegance and authority of a queen regent, offering them a way to connect with the regal allure of Maria Cristina.

The time during which this perfume was launched was marked by significant political and social shifts. Maria Cristina’s regency, a transitional period between her husband's death and the birth of her son Alfonso XIII, was a time of both uncertainty and anticipation for Spain. Guerlain's creation of a perfume in her honor was not only a tribute to her personal dignity and grace but also a continuation of the brand's tradition of crafting fragrances for the royal and elite circles of Europe. This period saw Guerlain consolidating its reputation for bespoke creations for heads of state and nobility, solidifying its place as a purveyor of luxury and refinement.

Maria Christina of Austria (Maria Christina Désirée Henriette Felicitas Rainiera; July 21, 1858 – February 6, 1929) was the Queen Consort of Spain as the second wife of King Alfonso XII. Fondly known as Christa within her family, she was born at Židlochovice Castle near Brno, Moravia, to Archduke Karl Ferdinand of Austria and Archduchess Elisabeth Franziska of Austria. Renowned for her grace and intellect, she was described as "tall, fair, sensible, and well educated" prior to her marriage.

Upon the death of her husband, Maria Christina, who was pregnant at the time, faced a potential power vacuum. The succession depended on the gender of her unborn child: a son would inherit the throne, while a daughter would place her elder daughter, Infanta María Mercedes, in line. When her son, Alfonso XIII, was born, Maria Christina assumed the role of regent until Alfonso came of age in 1902. Her regency, characterized by balanced governance and respect for constitutional rights, was marked by significant political reforms aimed at maintaining stability and preventing conflict.

Maria Christina's tenure as regent was largely ceremonial, focused on safeguarding the crown for her son until he reached maturity. After Alfonso XIII's marriage in 1906, she transitioned to the roles of Queen Dowager and Queen Mother. She passed away in 1929 at the Royal Palace in Madrid and was laid to rest at El Escorial.

La Ilustración española y americana - Part 2 - Page 374, 1885:

Guerlain has crafted a charming and refreshing fragrance for women, embodying the vibrant spirit of youth with the essence of a spring bouquet. Named Maria Cristina, this perfume was designed in honor of Her Majesty Queen Maria Cristina of Spain. The fragrance has resonated with young families, who have eagerly embraced Guerlain’s creation. Maria Cristina's association with Guerlain, headquartered at 15 rue de la Paix in Paris, highlights the perfume house's commitment to elegance and refinement.

 

During the 19th century, carnation perfumes were highly sought after, with their spicy, floral notes embodying elegance and refinement. Known as "oeillet" in French, carnation-based fragrances appeared in a variety of perfumery manuals and pharmacopeias, reflecting their widespread popularity. Perfumers of the time were tasked with creating unique interpretations of carnation scents, each vying to distinguish their creation in an increasingly competitive market. Guerlain, one of the premier perfume houses, chose the name Bouquet de Marie Christine for its carnation-inspired fragrance, a name that reflected the romantic and regal associations often linked to floral bouquets of that era.

The carnation perfume formulas of the time were artfully crafted to evoke the fresh, spicy blossoms of the flower. These blends often combined natural extracts, such as essential oils and absolutes, which were painstakingly extracted from the blooms. Infusions and tinctures, too, played a role in early formulations, preserving the natural essence of the carnation’s scent. These methods of perfumery highlighted the skill and patience required to create a fragrance that could perfectly capture the lively, clove-like aroma of fresh carnations.

However, as the 19th century came to a close, the world of perfumery was revolutionized by the discovery and use of synthetic compounds. These newly available synthetics allowed perfumers to enhance and prolong the scent of carnations, adding complexity and depth to their creations. The use of these compounds in Bouquet de Marie Christine and other carnation perfumes of the era allowed the fragrance to stand out in a growing market, offering a bold interpretation of the flower that was both authentic and innovative.

Carnation perfumes like Bouquet de Marie Christine thus bridged the gap between traditional, nature-based perfumery and the emerging world of modern synthetics. By combining the best of both worlds, they captured the essence of the flower while offering something fresh and distinctive for their time.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? Queen Regent of Spain, Maria Christina loved carnation perfumes, so I have taken a basic formula used for carnation perfumes in the 19th century. It is classified as a spicy floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: cassie, carnation, clove, neroli, rose geranium, pimento, petitgrain
• Middle notes: orange blossom, rose, tuberose, jonquil, jasmine, orris, cinnamon
• Base notes: vanilla, storax, tolu balsam, musk, benzoin, patchouli, sandalwood, ambergris

Scent Profile:

The first whiff of Bouquet de Marie Christine captures a vivid, spicy floral opening that transports you to a lush garden filled with the heady aroma of carnations. The top notes introduce the sweet, powdery essence of cassie, which is immediately joined by the sharp, peppery bite of carnation and clove. 

This trio is invigorated by the citrusy brightness of neroli and the green, rosy freshness of rose geranium, while pimento adds a subtle yet intriguing warmth. Petitgrain lends its fresh, bitter, and slightly woody character, grounding the bouquet and balancing the sweetness with its sharp, leafy note.

As the fragrance settles, the middle notes emerge, and a wave of white florals and spice swirls around. Orange blossom infuses the scent with its sweet, honeyed aura, while rose introduces a velvety depth, soft and romantic, yet not overpowering. The lush creaminess of tuberose intertwines with the narcotic, almost wild fragrance of jonquil, adding an intoxicating richness to the blend. 

Jasmine, ever so delicate, brings its characteristic indolic sweetness, contrasting with the earthy depth of orris, which lends a subtle powderiness. The addition of cinnamon spices the heart of the perfume, adding a warm, comforting touch that complements the floral arrangement.

As the fragrance matures on the skin, the base notes come into play, providing a grounding richness. Vanilla creates a creamy, sweet warmth that wraps the entire scent in a soft, luxurious veil. The dark, resinous quality of storax and the deep, balsamic richness of tolu balsam add a velvety texture, while musk brings a sensual undertone that lingers delicately on the skin. 

Benzoin, with its soft, vanillic aroma, mingles with the exotic, woody facets of patchouli and sandalwood, providing depth and a sense of earthy sophistication. Finally, ambergris, rare and precious, adds a subtle salty warmth, giving the fragrance a majestic, regal quality befitting Queen Maria Christina herself.

Together, these ingredients form a beautifully balanced composition, where the spicy sharpness of clove and carnation dances with the warmth of cinnamon and balsamic resins, while florals bloom in the heart, softened by creamy, woody notes in the dry down. The result is an opulent and timeless fragrance, evocative of royalty and the grandeur of the 19th century, encapsulating the love Queen Maria Christina had for the scent of carnations.

Bottles:

Presented in the Carre flacon.

La Nouvelle revue, 1888:

"Regarding the question of perfumery, I entrust our esteemed perfumer, Guerlain, to address it. Unlike many other fields, fashion in this realm remains remarkably constant. The very name Guerlain, which graced the stage of the Comédie-Française with the revival of Emile Augier’s Les Effrontés, exemplifies this enduring tradition. Though the play itself is not new, dating back to the imperial years, Guerlain has long been the epitome of fashionable perfumery. Its essences, including the Imperial Russian, have consistently rivaled even the most esteemed eaux de Cologne, establishing a legacy of elegance for discerning ladies.

Since then, Guerlain has expanded its exquisite collection with a host of remarkable fragrances. The Imperial Russian now shares its illustrious reputation with other notable scents such as Pao-Rosa, Marie-Christine, Heliotrope Blanc, Shore's Caprice, Maréchale-Duchesse, Primavera de España, and the essential balm of Violets, among others. Our refined and sophisticated clientele thus finds themselves delightfully spoiled for choice.". 

General route of France: Provence, 1891:

GUERLAIN 15, rue de la Paix, Paris Perfumes: Imperial Russian, Marie-Christine, Jicky, Eau de Cologne Imperiale, the same Amber or Russian. Sapoceti, special soap patented in 1843 - Strawberry Cream, the best Cold Cream - Cypris Powder, refreshing and unalterable - Excellence, quintessence of Amber Flowers, for the toilet and the handkerchief.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Bouquet de Marie Christine, a captivating carnation-based fragrance, was discontinued at an unknown date, yet it was still available for purchase as late as 1892. The perfume, named in honor of Queen Maria Christina of Spain, carried with it the allure and refinement of the era, beloved for its spicy floral profile. Its enduring presence in the perfume market until the late 19th century indicates its popularity among women who sought a fragrance embodying elegance and opulence.

As time progressed, the changing landscape of perfumery, evolving trends, and the introduction of new scent compositions likely contributed to its eventual discontinuation. Perfumes like Bouquet de Marie Christine were crafted in an era where natural ingredients were key, but the late 19th century also saw the rise of synthetics in fragrance, which could have shifted preferences and led to a decline in demand. Despite its discontinuation, the fragrance left a lasting impression, its memory lingering among collectors and historians who cherish its role in the history of perfumery.

The scent’s association with Queen Maria Christina, along with its carefully crafted blend of florals, spices, and resins, ensured its place as a symbol of sophistication and prestige. Though no longer produced, Bouquet de Marie Christine continues to evoke the grandeur of 19th-century perfumery, where scents were created to reflect the status and tastes of royalty and the elite. Its legacy remains a fascinating part of perfume history, representing the height of floral compositions during a time when carnation perfumes were at their peak of popularity.