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Friday, February 1, 2013

Jasmin de Siam by Guerlain c1922

Jasmin de Siam by Guerlain, launched in 1922, is a fragrance deeply embedded in its historical and cultural context. Created by Jacques Guerlain, this scent did not make its debut in the United States until 1924, reflecting the gradual spread of luxurious European fragrances to American shores.

The name "Jasmin de Siam" is a deliberate choice steeped in evocative imagery and exoticism. "Jasmin" is French for jasmine, while "Siam" refers to the historical name for Thailand, a country renowned for its rich cultural heritage. By combining these elements, Guerlain tapped into the allure of the exotic East, invoking visions of lush, tropical landscapes and the opulence of distant lands. The name suggests not only the floral splendor of jasmine but also the mystique and elegance associated with Siamese culture.

The fragrance's name would have conjured images of opulent jasmine gardens, possibly reminiscent of the aromatic blossoms found in Siam. During the early 20th century, the allure of exotic locations was a potent marketing tool, enhancing the perceived value and sophistication of a perfume. For women of the time, Jasmin de Siam would have represented not only a captivating olfactory experience but also a touch of the exotic, embodying the romanticism and luxury of the era.

In terms of its scent profile, Jasmin de Siam likely emphasized the lush, creamy essence of jasmine, enhanced by subtle, exotic undertones to evoke the splendor of Siam. The fragrance's appeal would have been magnified by the broader trend of incorporating exotic elements into perfumes during the period, aligning with the growing fascination with far-off places and their cultural artifacts.

Jasmine was indeed cultivated in Siam, which would have added authenticity to the fragrance’s claims. However, Siam was not a French colony; it maintained its sovereignty, though it had significant interactions with European powers. The choice of "Siam" in the fragrance's name reflects an era when exoticism was a key component in branding and marketing, appealing to the Western imagination's fascination with the East.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a floral fragrance for women. Essentially, a jasmine sambac soliflore, but does have bright fruity notes of apples and jonquil and base notes of vanilla and a touch of civet.
  • Top notes: apple, jonquil, cassie, neroli
  • Middle notes: jasmine sambac, orange blossom, orris
  • Base notes: civet, vanilla, ambrette


Scent Profile:

Jasmin de Siam unveils an olfactory journey that begins with a vibrant, sunlit burst of top notes. As you first encounter the fragrance, the crisp, tart freshness of apple comes forward, its green, fruity aroma evoking the early morning dew on a perfectly ripe fruit. 

This initial impression is soon softened by the delicate sweetness of jonquil, a flower whose subtle, honeyed scent mingles with the fresh brightness of cassie—a flower that offers a unique, green-tinged sweetness reminiscent of spring's first blooms. The neroli adds a touch of zesty citrus, enhancing the fragrance's invigorating and radiant character.

As the fragrance settles, the heart reveals its rich floral complexity. The essence of jasmine sambac emerges prominently, its opulent, creamy floral aroma enveloping you in a luxurious embrace. This jasmine, known for its rich, almost heady sweetness, is perfectly complemented by the ethereal beauty of orange blossom, whose light, slightly citrusy scent adds a hint of elegance. 

The orris root introduces a powdery, velvety depth, blending seamlessly with the floral notes and adding a sophisticated softness to the composition.


The base notes of Jasmin de Siam offer a warm, sensual finish. The vanilla weaves through the scent with its rich, sweet, and creamy quality, creating a smooth, comforting foundation. A touch of civet adds a hint of animalic warmth, providing an intriguing contrast to the otherwise sweet and floral notes. Finally, the subtle presence of ambrette adds a musky nuance, further deepening the fragrance’s complexity and longevity.


In essence, Jasmin de Siam is a floral symphony that captures the essence of exotic jasmine sambac, while interweaving bright, fruity notes with a sophisticated, sensual base. It is a fragrance that exudes both elegance and allure, embodying a timeless sophistication with a modern twist.


Bottles:


The perfume was sold in the carre bottle by Pochet et du Courval.



Fate of the Fragrance:


Not sure when it was discontinued but it was still being sold in 1959.


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