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Saturday, February 9, 2013

Shore's Caprice by Guerlain c1873

Shore's-Caprice, launched in 1873, was a fragrance crafted by Aimé Guerlain, intended as an extrait specifically for use on handkerchiefs and furs. At a time when furs were a staple in high society, the perfume served a practical purpose—masking the natural odor of the pelts with a luxurious scent. The fragrance, inspired by the sea, captured the essence of freshness and sophistication, making it an ideal complement to the elegance of its wearers.

Originally created for Comtesse Emanuella Pignatelli Potocka, Shore's-Caprice soon became a favorite of Julia Forsell, further solidifying its reputation among the elite. The fragrance’s unique composition and connection to aristocracy helped establish its place in high society. However, despite its prominence, the perfume's name was often mistakenly recorded as "Shaw's Caprice" or "Show Caprice" in various publications, a testament to both its widespread influence and the occasional confusion surrounding it.
Shore's Caprice by Guerlain, launched in 1873, is a perfume name that evokes a rich tapestry of imagery and emotion. The name Shore's Caprice combines English and French elements, with "shore" referring to the coastal or seaside location, and "caprice" deriving from the French word for "whim" or "fancy." This combination suggests a fragrance inspired by the unpredictable beauty of the seaside, capturing both the elegance and the capricious nature of the ocean.

The term Shore's Caprice conjures images of breezy coastlines and the gentle, shifting moods of the sea. It evokes emotions of freshness, freedom, and a sense of romantic adventure. The word "shore" suggests a connection to the natural world, where the perfume might evoke the scent of salty sea air mingling with coastal flora. "Caprice," on the other hand, implies a whimsical, fleeting quality, reflecting the unpredictable and ever-changing nature of the sea.

In terms of scent, Shore's Caprice would likely be interpreted as a fragrance that captures the essence of the oceanic environment. This could include fresh, aquatic notes reminiscent of sea spray and coastal plants, balanced with a hint of exotic or floral undertones to reflect the "capricious" nature of the sea. The combination of these elements would create a perfume that feels both invigorating and elusive, much like the changing tides and shifting sands of the shore.

For women of the late 19th century, Shore's Caprice would have been a symbol of sophistication and modernity. The 1870s was a period marked by elegance and opulence, with a growing emphasis on individuality and personal style. A perfume with a name like Shore's Caprice would resonate with the era's fascination with natural beauty and the allure of the exotic. It would appeal to women who desired a fragrance that not only complemented their refined tastes but also embodied the romantic and adventurous spirit of the time.

The perfume's launch in 1873 reflects an era in which French perfumery was gaining international acclaim, and Guerlain was at the forefront of this movement. The 1870s was a time of rapid social and technological change, with the arts and fashion experiencing significant transformations. Guerlain's choice of a name that evokes both the elegance of the shoreline and the whimsical charm of a caprice perfectly captured the essence of this dynamic and evolving period.

Fragrance Composition:


Shore's-Caprice perfume, launched in 1873, shares a notable resemblance with a fragrance named "Ocean Spray", also known as "Sea Breeze". During the late 19th century, a number of prominent perfume houses—including Lubin, Woodworth, Ed Pinaud, Eastman, Wenck, and Williamson & Griggs—produced perfumes under the Ocean Spray moniker, reflecting a popular trend for sea-inspired scents.

The general composition for the perfume is as follows:
  • Top notes: bergamot, cassia, orange blossom, seaweed
  • Middle notes: jasmine, rose, lavender, clove, rosemary
  • Base notes: sandalwood, ambergris, civet, ambrette, musk, vanilla, vetiver, cypress
The composition of Shore's-Caprice aligns closely with these oceanic fragrances, featuring a blend of refreshing and aromatic elements.  

The combination of these elements results in a fragrance that is both evocative of the sea and sophisticated, embodying the elegance and opulence of its era.


Le Mémorial diplomatique, 1873:
"The new scent for the proposed handkerchief, the choice of many is called Shore's Caprice and Royal Hunt. Shore's Caprice is sold at the Guerlain perfumery, 15 rue de la Paix."

Journal des demoiselles - Page 62, 1874:
"I will point out to you among the best perfumes the Shore's Caprice, composed of plants from the shores of the sea, the Bouquet of Lord Seymour, Parfum de France, and Fleurs Nouvelles, from the house Guerlain 15 rue de la Paix."

 Ilustración Española y Americana, 1874:

"Concerned with women's beauty, the Guerlain house has special products for each season: snail cream for winter that destroys skin roughness, vinegars and toilet waters in summer that fortify and embalm the skin. Refined elegance cannot be achieved without certain whale-white soaps (fine and very soft paste, scented with white roses) or without Strawberry Cream, Swan Powder and various essences of the handkerchief adopted by Parisian high fashion, the Most sought after are: Perfume de France, Bouquet of the Neva, and Shore's Caprice. The Guerlain house, rue de la Paix, 15, in Paris also has precious toiletries such as odoriferous sachets, glass bottles, boxes for rice powders, ivory combs, etc. whose objects surpass in elegance and beauty all that may arise from other parties."


Journal des demoiselles - Page 62, 1875:

"Regarding fragrance extracts, just like our fashion adjustments, they are subject to trends. Apply, as Mascarille suggests, the reflection of your sense of smell to Lord Seymour’s bouquet and tell me if it is a perfume that is both softer and more penetrating. New floral scents such as Shore's Caprice, violet, and cedrat are also highly favored in their compositions. M. Guerlain excludes musk from these fragrances."


La Ilustración española y americana - Volume 19, 1875:

 "Among all the preferred perfumes for handkerchiefs, Shore's Caprice continues to lead, enjoying the same privileged success it had the previous year and is now being adopted by the elegant world. All products from the house of Guerlain, located at 15 rue de la Paix in Paris, are so exquisite that they require no further praise."


Théâtre de la Porte Saint-Martin: Les enfants du capitaine Grant, 1879:
"Perfumery Guerlain, 15, rue de la Paix - Sapoceti Soaps. Stilboid for hair. Cosmetics for ladies: Strawberry cream and swan powder for the complexion. Perfumes sought: Pao Rosa, Fleurs de Serre, Bouquet Imperial Russe, Shore's Caprice, and Eau de Cologne Imperiale."

Revuee Illustree, 1887:
 "The Shore's Caprice which is also the original fragrance to neutralize the strong odor of certain furs."


 La Nouvelle revue - Volume 51, 1888:

"Émile Augier's play is certainly not new, as its premiere dates back to the imperial years. But even at that time, Guerlain was the fashionable perfumer, and his essences were distributed in high society, with Impériale Russe already competing with the earlier. Eau de Cologne of the same label, which had preceded it in the toilette of the elegant ladies. Since then, many other perfumes have been added to Guerlain’s exquisite collection, and Impériale Russe now has rivals in its ever-growing popularity, such as Pao Rosa, Marie Christine, Héliotrope Blanc, Shore's Caprice, Maréchale Duchesse, Primavera de España, Baume Essentiel de Violettes, and many more. As we can see, our refined connoisseurs of fragrance are spoiled for choice."

New York Times, 1901:

"GUERLAIN'S - Extracts by the Ounce: Geranium de Serre, Fragrance, Imperiale Russe, Par West, Heliotrope de Serre, Ikbal Bouquet, Rose Conquette, and Shore's Caprice. 80 cents an ounce. Extracts in bottles: Tsao-Ko, Jardin de mon Cure, Violette a Deux Sous, Gavotte, Cyprisine, Dix Petales de Roses. $2.26 a bottle."

 The Commercial Appeal, 1915:

"How avoid moth?," I asked. 

"Perfumes!" blurted out a man who stood there. "Shore's Caprice. Ask Guerlain."

Vladimir Grunwalt frowned slightly. He admitted simply, the existence of fur perfumes, as such. "Women like them," he said. Later I asked Gabriel Guerlain, "Who is Shore? And what is his Caprice?" 

"My father knew, perhaps, I know not. Shore Caprice is the fur perfume. We have made it up for years. Was there a Shore? I know not," said Gabriel Guerlain.



Bottles:



Presented in the Carre flacon (parfum).


 


 

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1915. 

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