Ylang Ylang by Guerlain c1839

Launched in 1839, Ylang Ylang by Guerlain was named after the exotic and fragrant tropical flower, ylang ylang, whose name comes from the Tagalog language of the Philippines, meaning "flower of flowers." By choosing this name, Guerlain aimed to evoke the lush, tropical allure of this flower, which was synonymous with romance, mystery, and natural beauty. The repetition of the word in its name, "ylang ylang," suggests abundance and a floral richness that is hard to match, conjuring up images of vibrant, sun-drenched islands and a sensory experience unlike anything found in Europe at the time.

The word "ylang ylang" itself carries a poetic and exotic connotation. It stirs the imagination, bringing forth visions of delicate golden-yellow petals falling gracefully from trees in faraway tropical landscapes. In scent, "ylang ylang" is interpreted as a rich, sweet floral with hints of creaminess and spice, a fragrance that feels both intoxicating and calming. Its scent is sensual yet soft, with a slightly narcotic effect, making it a perfect representation of the escapism and indulgence that women of the time would have sought. The tropical note of ylang ylang would have transported its wearers to distant lands, creating a sense of exoticism and refinement.

In the 19th century, when Ylang Ylang was launched, Europe was captivated by the mysteries of the East and the allure of the tropics. The colonial expansion had made new and rare materials like ylang ylang accessible, and perfumes using exotic ingredients became a symbol of luxury and adventure. Women of the time would have been drawn to a perfume called "Ylang Ylang" for its promise of something new and thrilling—a fragrance that spoke to their desire for beauty and sophistication, while also indulging in a fantasy of distant, uncharted worlds.

Ylang ylang, important to perfumery for its versatility, was sourced from tropical regions like the Philippines, Indonesia, and Madagascar during the 19th century. The essential oil extracted from its blossoms was highly prized for its ability to blend harmoniously with other florals, as well as with spicy, woody, and sweet notes. As ylang ylang’s popularity grew, nearly all perfumers of the time had their own variations of the scent. These early perfumes were crafted using natural extracts, infusions, absolutes, and tinctures to recreate the lush, fresh aroma of the ylang ylang flower.

Formulas for ylang ylang perfumes were commonly found in perfumery manuals and pharmacopeias during the period, demonstrating the flower’s significance in fragrance creation. Toward the end of the century, as the art of perfumery evolved, new synthetics and aroma compounds like coumarin, vanillin, linalool, benzyl acetate, and musk xylene were discovered. These synthetics allowed perfumers to enhance and transform the natural essence of ylang ylang, adding layers of complexity to an already beloved fragrance. This made ylang ylang perfumes even more versatile, allowing perfumers to craft more intricate and lasting compositions that resonated with the growing tastes for innovative and luxurious scents.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was classified as a floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: neroli, orange blossom, lemon, cassie, sweet orange
• Middle notes: ylang ylang, rose, jasmine, jonquil, tuberose, cananga
• Base notes: musk, benzoin, orris, tonka bean, vanilla, civet

Scent Profile:

As I begin to explore the scent of Guerlain's Ylang Ylang, the top notes greet me with a vibrant citrus burst. The initial impression is dominated by the bright, sparkling energy of neroli, fresh and bitter, like crushed orange blossoms carried on a crisp breeze. There’s a soft floral sweetness from orange blossom that complements the neroli, its delicate white petals adding a honeyed nuance. 

The lemon note sharpens the composition with a zesty edge, its tangy brightness mingling with the floral sweetness of cassie. The cassie, with its subtle green, powdery undertone, feels like a breath of fresh meadow air, while the sweet orange rounds out the top with a warm, juicy richness that creates an inviting, sun-kissed opening.

As the fragrance blooms into its heart, the intoxicating floral bouquet takes over, with ylang ylang reigning at the center. Its tropical essence is lush and opulent, offering a creamy, almost buttery depth that sways between sweetness and spice. The velvety petals of the flower evoke images of golden sunshine and warm, humid air, transporting me to a faraway island. 

Rose, with its deep, romantic profile, emerges like silk, lending a soft, powdery elegance that contrasts beautifully with the heady richness of jasmine. The jasmine feels almost narcotic, its intensity slightly sharp yet hypnotically sweet, enveloping the senses in a fragrant cloud.

Joining the floral medley, jonquil adds a fresh, slightly green scent, reminiscent of springtime blooms. It pairs with the bold richness of tuberose, which offers a creamy, almost waxy floral character, adding a sultry, exotic touch to the heart of the fragrance. Cananga, a close relative of ylang ylang, brings a similar but greener note, reinforcing the tropical, floral opulence and further enhancing the perfume’s sensual allure. Together, these flowers create an irresistibly feminine and seductive harmony that lingers in the air.

As the scent settles into its base, a deep warmth unfolds. The animalic musk rises first, softly enveloping the florals in a velvety embrace, its warmth deepened by the balsamic sweetness of benzoin. Benzoin brings a smooth, resinous touch with hints of vanilla-like warmth, which merges seamlessly with the orris—a powdery, slightly earthy note that adds an air of vintage elegance. Orris’s soft, violet-like scent feels both regal and nostalgic, grounding the fragrance in a sophisticated depth.

The sweet tonka bean adds a final layer of indulgence, its creamy, almond-like aroma mingling with a hint of tobacco sweetness. Vanilla enhances this gourmand touch, softening the musky, resinous base and giving it a smooth, comforting sweetness. Civet, with its sensual, animalic undertone, adds a slightly wild and carnal note, balancing the sweetness with raw, primal energy. As the fragrance slowly fades, it leaves a lingering trail of warmth and depth, evoking a sense of timeless beauty and sensuality—an embodiment of the tropical, floral essence that is Guerlain's Ylang Ylang.

Bottle:

Presented in the Carre flacon.

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.