Guerlain Perfumes: Violette qui Embaume c1904

Guerlain’s Violette qui Embaume, (also spelled Violette Qu'Embaume), launched in 1904, carries a name that poetically reflects the essence of its composition. Translated from French, "Violette qui Embaume" means "Violet that Embalms" or "Violet that Wafts Scent." The word "embaume" evokes imagery of a violet flower so richly fragrant that its scent envelops the air, filling the surroundings with its natural beauty. This was the phrase of the flower sellers in Paris, where a bunch cost two pence. This phrase captures the experience of being in a lush garden of violets, their delicate fragrance carried on a soft breeze. It’s a name that speaks to the era's romantic sensibilities, a time when flowers symbolized femininity, elegance, and the ethereal nature of beauty.

In scent, Violette qui Embaume would be interpreted as a soliflore—a fragrance built around a single floral note. Here, the violet stands front and center, with its powdery, slightly sweet and woody qualities. The name conjures an image of dew-covered violets at dawn, the soft, almost velvety petals exuding their scent with a quiet but persistent strength. The addition of vetiver as a base note grounds the delicate violet, providing an earthy, slightly smoky depth to balance its inherent sweetness. Together, these notes evoke a blend of innocence and sophistication—a fragrance that is at once delicate and rooted in natural richness.

Women of the early 20th century would have embraced a perfume called Violette qui Embaume as an expression of refined taste and feminine grace. At the time, violet perfumes were incredibly popular, signifying purity, modesty, and the gentle elegance admired in women of the era. The violet flower was a staple in many women’s gardens, and its scent was familiar, comforting, and subtly seductive. With the industrial revolution still in progress, there was a growing appreciation for nature, and floral fragrances allowed women to carry a piece of the natural world with them. Violette qui Embaume would have resonated deeply with the women of the period, offering them a sense of connection to both nature and the refined aesthetics of French perfumery.

Chrestomathie française, 1885:

"The cries of Paris would provide the material for a large book, and even several if one wanted to note down all the airs and all the roulades with which the streets resound. "Violette qu'embaume, violette qu'embaume, violette qui'embaume, (violet that smells good)" cries the young flower seller whose cry, like that of the swallow, announces to you the return of spring."

The early 20th century was also a time of evolving perfumery techniques. While natural extracts of violets were still used, the introduction of synthetics like methyl ionones transformed the way violet perfumes were created. Methyl ionones, which could mimic the scent of violet, allowed perfumers to produce violet fragrances with greater consistency and longevity. At the time, violet flowers were primarily sourced from regions like Parma, Italy, and Grasse in France, where they were cultivated specifically for their fragrance. Extracts of violet leaf and flower were popular, but with the rise of synthetic alternatives, perfumes could achieve the desired violet aroma without depending solely on natural harvests, which could be inconsistent.

Throughout the 19th century, violet perfumes became a hallmark of sophistication. They often appeared in manuals and perfumery guides, their formulas blending natural essences and infusions to capture the fresh, dewy quality of the flower. By the time Violette qui Embaume was launched, perfumers had begun experimenting with aroma compounds such as vanillin and ionones, allowing for a more vivid and long-lasting interpretation of violet’s scent. Guerlain’s choice to add vetiver to the base of this soliflore further enhanced its character, giving it a depth that would appeal to women seeking a more complex, enduring fragrance.

In the competitive landscape of perfumery during this period, creating unique names for violet fragrances was essential to distinguish one from another. Guerlain’s Violette qui Embaume stood out as a perfume that not only embodied the floral charm of violets but also invited women to immerse themselves in a scent that felt both nostalgic and modern, blending nature’s beauty with the era’s burgeoning innovations in fragrance.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a violet soliflore with a base of vetiver. The general 19th century recipe for violet perfume included the following ingredients:

Top notes: cassie, bitter almonds, bergamot, orange peel
Middle notes: violet, rose, tuberose, ylang ylang
Base notes: vetiver, orris, tolu balsam, vanilla, musk

A John Wanamaker ad from the Delaware County Times, 1902:

The one man in the Old World bold enough to use nothing but the finest ingredients in his perfumes is M. Guerlain of Rue de la Paix, Paris. He employs only the purest suet to extract the essence of flowers, and the purest alcohol to release their fragrance. His extracts are true, offering a delicacy or intensity depending on your choice, for nothing in nature that breathes sweetness escapes the keen, discerning nose of Guerlain.
Take, for example, his extract Far West (which we exclusively offer in America), where the woods have gifted their damp, earthy, cedar-like aroma. It’s a rare experience to have the scent of the wet forest captured in a bottle. Far West is so original and delightful that people can't help but laugh with pleasure at its novelty, even as they claim they don’t like it. Yet, inevitably, they return to it—just as they say they won’t—because it clings irresistibly to the senses.
Another marvel of Guerlain’s craft is Aquarella, a sweet, firm, and enchanting fragrance. It is as delicate as almond blossoms, yet with an underlying substance that captivates. Whatever Guerlain touches is guaranteed to be of the highest purity and quality. Among his other extraordinary creations are Tume, Fragrance, Rup, Gazaki, Verveine, Paris Gem, Geranium de Serre, Floxinia, Aquarella, Full Scent, Far West, Violet du Embaume, Violet de Alger, Le Jardin de Mon Curé, Tsao-Ko, Dix Pétales de Roses, and Belle France. Each of these is a testament to his unmatched artistry.

Scent Profile:

As I inhale the fragrance of Violette qui Embaume, the top notes instantly transport me to a sunlit morning garden. The sharp, citrusy brightness of bergamot and orange peel cut through the air, their zest mingling with the green, honeyed scent of cassie. The floral freshness of cassie balances the fruit’s vibrancy with its own subtle powdery sweetness. Bitter almonds trail behind, offering a smooth, almost creamy nuttiness that enhances the floral heart that is soon to unfold.

As the perfume settles, the middle notes emerge in a tender symphony of flowers. The violet takes center stage, unmistakable in its delicate, powdery, and sweet scent, evoking images of dew-dappled petals in a field of purple. It’s a soft fragrance, both calming and nostalgic, yet with an air of sophistication that only the violet can convey. Beside it, the rose blooms quietly, its velvety petals adding a faint, romantic richness that deepens the bouquet.

The tuberose’s heady and narcotic quality provides an opulent, creamy counterpoint, while ylang-ylang's tropical, almost custard-like sweetness sways in with its exotic, fruity undertones, completing the floral heart with an intoxicating warmth. The flowers entwine with one another, the violet dominating but graciously sharing its space with these other blooms, creating a layered and textured floral harmony.

As the fragrance deepens, the base notes begin to unfurl, grounding the violet’s ephemeral sweetness with a rich, earthy complexity. Vetiver emerges first, its grassy and woody facets blending with the powdery iris-like notes of orris. The vetiver’s smoky depth adds contrast, pulling the sweetness of the flowers down into something more robust and mysterious.

Tolu balsam lends a resinous warmth, rich and slightly spicy, adding texture to the dry-down. Vanilla softens the edges, its creamy sweetness wrapping around the vetiver and balsam, leaving a lingering, sensual warmth on the skin. Finally, the musk introduces a subtle animalic note, adding an aura of sensuality, while keeping the fragrance grounded and softly enveloping.

In its entirety, Violette qui Embaume is a perfume of contrasts—light and dark, floral and earthy. The violet remains the star throughout, but it is the supporting notes—each with its own story to tell—that create a fragrance that is both timeless and captivating. The vetiver in the base provides an unexpectedly modern twist, giving the perfume a green, grounded elegance that endures, even as the delicate flowers fade away. The balance of florals, woods, and resins create a fragrance that feels like a garden in full bloom, framed by nature's untamed wilderness.