Violette a Deux Sous c1890

"Violette à Deux Sous," launched by Guerlain around 1890, is a whimsical and evocative name that translates from French to "Twopenny Violet." This playful title cleverly nods to one of the early postage stamps, a “two sous” stamp, making it a witty pun by Guerlain. By choosing this name, Guerlain infused the fragrance with a sense of accessibility, charm, and nostalgia, while hinting at the modest price point of the stamp, which made it an everyday item. The name evokes an image of violets—delicate and fragrant—paired with a sense of something simple yet precious, like a small token sent by mail, a message sealed with affection.

The word "Violette à Deux Sous" conjures emotions of lightness, spring, and subtle luxury. The violet, a flower that symbolizes modesty, love, and innocence, would have brought to mind for women of the time an ethereal, tender scent associated with femininity. In the late 19th century, violets were immensely popular in both fashion and fragrance. The scent of violets had become a cornerstone of perfumery, often used to evoke romance and nostalgia, making this perfume likely to appeal to women who desired an elegant, classic floral scent with a touch of playfulness. The title "Twopenny Violet" would have been perceived as charming, affordable yet sophisticated, inviting women to enjoy a little indulgence reminiscent of love letters or secret admirations exchanged with the simplicity of a postage stamp.

During the 1890s, France was the epicenter of luxury fragrance, and the violet was an essential element in the perfumer’s palette. The flower was a vital component in the formulation of many perfumes, valued for its powdery, sweet, and slightly woody aroma. Guerlain, being a master of interpreting such scents, would have harnessed its soft, comforting notes to create a perfume that felt both nostalgic and contemporary for the women of that era.

Violets used in perfumery at the time were typically sourced from regions like Grasse, France, which was the heart of the fragrance industry. Grasse was renowned for cultivating violets, and perfumers extracted their essence through methods such as enfleurage, which captured the flower’s delicate scent. The use of violet in "Violette à Deux Sous" would have represented a connection to nature, a celebration of springtime, and the rich history of violet in perfumery, dating back centuries as a symbol of grace and elegance.

In the late 19th century, a time of great artistic and cultural change, women were increasingly drawn to perfumes that offered both luxury and an escape into a world of fantasy and emotion. "Violette à Deux Sous" would have provided this, blending the nostalgia of violet with the modern sensibilities of an evolving era, allowing women to embrace a fragrance that was both personal and poetic.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was a violet soliflore fragrance for women with a base of vetiver. All types of violette perfumes were popular during the 19th century. Formulas for these perfumes appeared in several perfumery manuals and pharmacopeias during the period. The formulas were based on mixed blends to suggest the fresh odor of dewy violets. Natural extracts, infusions, absolutes and tinctures would have been used early on, but as the 19th century drew to a close, newly discovered synthetics and aroma compounds such as vanillin and methyl ionones would have been utilized. The general recipe included the following ingredients:

• Top notes: cassie, bitter almonds, bergamot, orange peel
• Middle notes: violet, rose, tuberose, ylang ylang
• Base notes: vetiver, orris, tolu balsam, vanilla, musk

The New York Times, 1901

Bottles:

Presented in the Carre flacon in the late 1800s. 

Presented in the Flacon Plat (Flat) starting in 1890. The bottle was created by Pochet et du Courval. Housed various Guerlain fragrances such as Tsao Ko, Belle France, Dix Petales de Roses, Cyprisine, Le Jardin de Mon Cure, Gavotte, Paris Nouveau, Violette a Deux Sous, Bouquet Mademoiselle, Grande Marechale, Young Princess, and Rodomel.

More commonly seen presented in the "Louis XVI" Flacon (extrait) starting in 1902.

1936 Reformulation & Reissue:

In 1936, Jacques Guerlain reformulated the iconic Violette à Deux Sous fragrance, breathing new life into a scent that had already captured the hearts of many. This reformulation, with its use of modern ingredients, brought a contemporary elegance to the classic violet scent, blending the timeless charm of violets with a more sophisticated, multifaceted composition.

The heart of Violette à Deux Sous remained true to its namesake: the sweet and powdery violet note. The violet's delicate floral scent evokes feelings of nostalgia, a connection to the past, as if walking through a garden in bloom under the soft light of the early morning. The violet is both tender and slightly green, a reflection of nature’s quiet beauty. Yet, Jacques Guerlain elevated this by introducing modern facets, crafting a more refined and layered fragrance that resonated with the evolving tastes of the 1930s.

In this era of societal change and innovation, Guerlain’s reformulation symbolized a balance between the old and the new. Violette à Deux Sous, now enhanced with richer floral notes and subtle supporting accords, brought a more nuanced complexity. Perhaps it was touched with soft musks or hints of powder, adding to the composition’s overall sophistication while still allowing the violet to shine as the central, cherished theme. By modernizing the fragrance, Guerlain ensured its relevance, allowing it to appeal to a new generation of women who appreciated both tradition and modernity.

This reformulation from 1936 was a testament to Jacques Guerlain’s mastery, blending heritage with the contemporary in a way that allowed Violette à Deux Sous to stand the test of time. It became more than just a violet scent; it was a symbol of evolution in fragrance, where simplicity met refinement, creating a delicate, elegant, and enduring perfume.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Violette à Deux Sous was a beloved fragrance by Guerlain, embodying the house’s ability to craft timeless, elegant perfumes. While its exact discontinuation date remains elusive, it was still being sold well into the 1950s, marking its enduring popularity. The scent's presence through the mid-20th century highlights how its charm resonated across decades, continuing to captivate both loyal fans and new admirers.

Launched during a time of great societal and cultural shifts, Violette à Deux Sous maintained relevance due to its delicate, floral simplicity that spoke to a wide range of women. By the 1950s, however, the world of perfumery was experiencing shifts toward more daring and complex compositions, which might have contributed to its eventual discontinuation. Yet, the violet-centric fragrance held a nostalgic quality, harking back to an era when subtlety and refinement were at the heart of feminine beauty.

Even as newer perfumes came into vogue, Violette à Deux Sous remained a symbol of classic French elegance, with its sweet, powdery violet note evoking memories of simpler times. The scent was also emblematic of Guerlain’s tradition of using natural ingredients in their purest form, delivering an authentic and graceful fragrance experience. Its longevity in the market well into the 1950s speaks to the emotional connection many had with the fragrance—a connection that was rooted in its gentle charm and timeless appeal.

Ultimately, the decision to discontinue Violette à Deux Sous may have been influenced by evolving market trends and the growing preference for more complex or exotic fragrances. But for those who experienced it, the perfume remained a reminder of a bygone era of elegance, and even after it was no longer on store shelves, it continued to be remembered fondly by those who cherished its delicate violet beauty.