Violette a Deux Sous c1890

"Violette à Deux Sous," launched by Guerlain around 1890, is a whimsical and evocative name that translates from French to "Twopenny Violet." This playful title cleverly nods to one of the early postage stamps, a “two sous” stamp, making it a witty pun by Guerlain. By choosing this name, Guerlain infused the fragrance with a sense of accessibility, charm, and nostalgia, while hinting at the modest price point of the stamp, which made it an everyday item. The name evokes an image of violets—delicate and fragrant—paired with a sense of something simple yet precious, like a small token sent by mail, a message sealed with affection.

The word "Violette à Deux Sous" conjures emotions of lightness, spring, and subtle luxury. The violet, a flower that symbolizes modesty, love, and innocence, would have brought to mind for women of the time an ethereal, tender scent associated with femininity. In the late 19th century, violets were immensely popular in both fashion and fragrance. The scent of violets had become a cornerstone of perfumery, often used to evoke romance and nostalgia, making this perfume likely to appeal to women who desired an elegant, classic floral scent with a touch of playfulness. The title "Twopenny Violet" would have been perceived as charming, affordable yet sophisticated, inviting women to enjoy a little indulgence reminiscent of love letters or secret admirations exchanged with the simplicity of a postage stamp.

During the 1890s, France was the epicenter of luxury fragrance, and the violet was an essential element in the perfumer’s palette. The flower was a vital component in the formulation of many perfumes, valued for its powdery, sweet, and slightly woody aroma. Guerlain, being a master of interpreting such scents, would have harnessed its soft, comforting notes to create a perfume that felt both nostalgic and contemporary for the women of that era.

Violets used in perfumery at the time were typically sourced from regions like Grasse, France, which was the heart of the fragrance industry. Grasse was renowned for cultivating violets, and perfumers extracted their essence through methods such as enfleurage, which captured the flower’s delicate scent. The use of violet in "Violette à Deux Sous" would have represented a connection to nature, a celebration of springtime, and the rich history of violet in perfumery, dating back centuries as a symbol of grace and elegance.

In the late 19th century, a time of great artistic and cultural change, women were increasingly drawn to perfumes that offered both luxury and an escape into a world of fantasy and emotion. "Violette à Deux Sous" would have provided this, blending the nostalgia of violet with the modern sensibilities of an evolving era, allowing women to embrace a fragrance that was both personal and poetic.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was a violet soliflore fragrance for women with a base of vetiver. All types of violette perfumes were popular during the 19th century. Formulas for these perfumes appeared in several perfumery manuals and pharmacopeias during the period. The formulas were based on mixed blends to suggest the fresh odor of dewy violets. Natural extracts, infusions, absolutes and tinctures would have been used early on, but as the 19th century drew to a close, newly discovered synthetics and aroma compounds such as vanillin and methyl ionones would have been utilized. The general recipe included the following ingredients:

• Top notes: cassie, bitter almonds, bergamot, orange peel
• Middle notes: violet, rose, tuberose, ylang ylang
• Base notes: vetiver, orris, tolu balsam, vanilla, musk

The New York Times, 1901

Bottles:

Presented in the Carre flacon in the late 1800s. 

Presented in the Flacon Plat (Flat) starting in 1890. The bottle was created by Pochet et du Courval. Housed various Guerlain fragrances such as Tsao Ko, Belle France, Dix Petales de Roses, Cyprisine, Le Jardin de Mon Cure, Gavotte, Paris Nouveau, Violette a Deux Sous, Bouquet Mademoiselle, Grande Marechale, Young Princess, and Rodomel.

More commonly seen presented in the "Louis XVI" Flacon (extrait) starting in 1902.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown, still being sold in the 1950s.