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Saturday, July 27, 2013

Jardins de Bagatelle by Guerlain c1982

Jardins de Bagatelle, launched in 1982 by Jean-Paul Guerlain, captures the essence of a beloved Parisian garden in both name and spirit. The fragrance takes its name from the Bagatelle Gardens, nestled within the Bois de Boulogne. These gardens trace their origins to 1775, when the Comte d'Artois, the brother of King Louis XVI, decided to construct a grand retreat after a playful wager with his sister-in-law, Marie Antoinette. Within just 64 days, the Château de Bagatelle rose, symbolizing the aristocratic pleasure of creating beauty on a whim. Over time, the gardens have become famous, not only for the elegant rose blossoms that fill the air with their intoxicating scent, but also as a romantic meeting place for lovers. Today, Jardins de Bagatelle still evokes the charm of that enchanting spot.

The word "Bagatelle" is French, and it means "a thing created for pleasure" or "a trifle." The name conveys a light-hearted sense of indulgence, something crafted not out of necessity but out of a desire to bring joy and delight. Pronounced [bar-gah-TEL], it rolls off the tongue with the same effortless grace as the gardens that inspired it.

The name Jardins de Bagatelle conjures vivid images of strolling through verdant pathways, surrounded by a sea of fragrant blooms. The air would be filled with the rich, heady scent of roses, mingling with fresh green notes of the park's vibrant flora. The word "Bagatelle" implies something light and playful, yet undeniably luxurious, echoing the carefree afternoons spent in the gardens of this historic estate. In scent, Jardins de Bagatelle would evoke a symphony of floral exuberance, a place where the elegance of nature is celebrated in every bloom. Women of the time would have interpreted this fragrance as a reflection of their own aspirations for beauty, pleasure, and a life filled with graceful indulgences.

The fragrance was launched at a time when women’s lives were expanding beyond traditional roles, with the 1980s representing a period of empowerment, yet also a return to feminine elegance and glamour. A perfume called Jardins de Bagatelle would resonate with women of the time who longed to balance sophistication with a sense of freedom and whimsy. The gardens themselves evoke a world of quiet luxury, where one could escape the pressures of modern life and lose oneself in the simple pleasure of a flower’s scent, much like wearing a fragrance to add a touch of joy to daily existence.


Historically, the Bagatelle Gardens were significant not only because of their royal origins but also due to their breathtaking beauty, especially in spring when over one and a half million bulbs burst into bloom. Snowdrops, hyacinths, daffodils, narcissus, and tulips would paint the landscape in vivid colors, followed by the unparalleled display of 7,000 rose bushes blooming in June. These gardens are a tribute to nature’s grandeur, cultivated by the hand of man to create a paradise in the heart of the city. The legacy of the Comte d'Artois and Marie Antoinette adds a touch of aristocratic elegance to the narrative, connecting the perfume to the grandeur and romance of French history.

Guerlain has always been synonymous with luxury, elegance, and nature, and this fragrance taps into that connection by celebrating the abundant beauty of flowers, particularly roses. The perfume is a love letter to these blossoms, mirroring the enchanting landscape of Bagatelle and its romantic allure. The floral notes in Jardins de Bagatelle are undoubtedly a tribute to this lush environment, blending the essence of the garden's flowers into an olfactory masterpiece that transports its wearer to a time of elegance, romance, and natural beauty.


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a rich floral fragrance for women.  A true 80's powerhouse perfume bursting at the seams with an opulent explosion of white flowers scented with tuberose on a woodsy base of cedar.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, jasmine, violet, lemon, bergamot, lilac
  • Middle notes: gardenia, Provencal rose, orange blossom, tuberose, magnolia, ylang ylang, narcissus, orris, orchid, lily of the valley
  • Base notes: benzoin, civet, tuberose, cedar, vetiver, patchouli, musk, neroli
 

Scent Profile:


As you first encounter Jardins de Bagatelle, its top notes greet you with a bright, sparkling burst of aldehydes that gives the fragrance a clean, almost effervescent lift. The aldehydes lend a sharp, soapy clarity to the opening, making the initial inhale feel airy and light, like a sunbeam filtering through the dense foliage of an exotic garden. 

From this brightness emerges the soft, floral sweetness of jasmine, whose creamy, indolic richness blends effortlessly with the delicate powder of violet. A tart, invigorating kiss of lemon and bergamot adds a fresh citrus zing, cutting through the flowers like a cool breeze, while the subtle sweetness of lilac offers a touch of springtime softness, delicate yet lingering.

As the fragrance begins to unfold, the heart of Jardins de Bagatelle blooms in a lush, extravagant profusion of white flowers. The voluptuous, creamy allure of gardenia swirls together with the intoxicating scent of tuberose, a note that dominates the composition with its narcotic intensity, adding a heady, almost creamy quality that feels rich and indulgent. 

Provencal rose lends a timeless, classic elegance to the blend, a soft yet deeply romantic floral touch that contrasts beautifully with the vivid brightness of orange blossom—its honeyed sweetness shimmering in the air.

Magnolia and ylang-ylang bring a tropical, slightly spicy dimension, their velvety petals unfolding with a sultry warmth. The narcissus adds a green, almost vegetal aspect, its earthiness grounding the florals with a natural, unrefined edge, while the powdery, slightly rooty note of orris anchors the bouquet in a sophisticated, vintage-like elegance. 

Orchid, with its delicate sweetness, and the fresh, almost dewy innocence of lily of the valley, round out the floral heart, creating a mesmerizing interplay of soft, sweet, and opulent floral notes that feel both timeless and daring.

As the base notes settle, a sensual and warm undertone begins to emerge. The balsamic richness of benzoin gives the dry down a resinous sweetness, a touch of vanilla warmth that feels soothing and comforting. The animalic edge of civet infuses the fragrance with a hint of sultry sensuality, evoking a faint whisper of musk and skin. 

Tuberose lingers here as well, continuing its rich, creamy presence into the base, merging beautifully with the smoky, slightly resinous scent of cedar. The woodsy dryness of vetiver and the earthy, slightly spicy depth of patchouli create a grounding effect, balancing the lush florals with a deeper, more masculine edge.

A soft, enveloping touch of musk adds a final layer of sensuality, while the sweetly floral and slightly bitter undertone of neroli brings the composition full circle, echoing the freshness of the top notes. Together, these base notes create a warm, long-lasting foundation that lingers on the skin, keeping the memory of the garden alive long after the sun has set on the fragrant blossoms of Jardins de Bagatelle.



Product Line:


When Jardins de Bagatelle was first released, it debuted exclusively as an Eau de Toilette, showcasing the delicate and radiant essence of the fragrance. Its lighter concentration allowed for a fresh and airy interpretation of the scent, perfect for capturing the garden's floral vibrancy. However, by 1986, the line had grown to include a range of bath and body products, allowing fans of the fragrance to experience it in a more immersive and indulgent way. These products not only enhanced the longevity of the scent on the skin but also offered a luxurious sensory experience, turning a simple bath or daily routine into a fragrant ritual.


Among the offerings was a Concentrated Bath Oil, a richly fragrant oil designed to soften and nourish the skin while enveloping it in the lush floral bouquet of Jardins de Bagatelle. The oil, when added to bathwater, would release a beautifully subtle yet long-lasting aroma, perfect for those looking to unwind in an atmosphere of elegance.

The Body Shampoo was another extension of the line, offering a gentle cleanser that left the skin softly fragranced and refreshed. This was ideal for those who wanted to incorporate the scent into their everyday regimen, ensuring that the fragrance lingered even after a shower or bath.

For those seeking deep hydration, the Body Lotion and Body Cream were essential additions to the collection. The lotion provided a lighter layer of moisture, perfect for daily use, while the cream, with its richer texture, offered more intense nourishment for dry skin. Both products were infused with the delicate floral notes of Jardins de Bagatelle, allowing the scent to bloom directly from the skin throughout the day.

Additionally, the line featured a Bath Soap, luxuriously scented to cleanse and subtly perfume the skin, and Talc, a fine powder that could be dusted over the body for a soft, velvety finish, leaving a gentle trail of the fragrance in its wake.

In keeping with the elegant and practical needs of the modern woman, the collection also included two forms of deodorants: the Perfumed Deodorant Mist and Perfumed Deodorant Spray. These provided a light layer of protection while maintaining the fragrance’s floral sophistication, perfect for women seeking a subtle yet effective way to keep fresh while retaining their signature scent.

In 1993, Guerlain expanded the line further by introducing an Eau de Parfum, a more concentrated version of Jardins de Bagatelle. This deeper, richer formulation offered a longer-lasting and more intense rendition of the scent, allowing the wearer to fully embrace the fragrance’s opulent floral notes throughout the day and into the evening. Despite this expansion, Jardins de Bagatelle never included an extrait (pure parfum), which made the eau de parfum the most concentrated expression of the fragrance available.

With its comprehensive range of bath, body, and fragrance products, Jardins de Bagatelle became not just a scent but a full-bodied experience, offering women multiple ways to indulge in the romantic allure of the garden-inspired fragrance.




 

Bottles:

The Jardins de Bagatelle flacon, designed by Robert Granai, is a masterpiece of elegance and symbolism, reflecting the beauty of the gardens that inspired it. Granai found his muse in the rose gardens, where classical statues stand gracefully amid blooming flowers. He captured the ethereal quality of these statues, bringing them to life in the form of a perfume bottle. The drapery that wraps around the bottle evokes the delicate shoulder of a nymph, suggesting the soft folds of fabric that cling to a marble figure. This flowing design creates an impression of fragility and timeless grace, much like the flowers and statues found in the garden.

The original bottle features a brownish smoke-tinted stopper and cap, adding a touch of mystery and depth to the design. The dark hue contrasts with the clear glass of the bottle, enhancing the sculptural quality of the draped effect. However, later editions of the flacon saw a shift toward a more modern, transparent design, with a completely clear cap and stopper, allowing the elegance of the form to take center stage without the darker tones of earlier versions.

For the 1993 launch of the Jardins de Bagatelle Eau de Parfum, the bottle was elevated even further. Both the stopper and the draped glass effect were gilded, adding a luxurious golden sheen that transformed the bottle into an object of art. The gilded detailing drew attention to the classical inspiration behind the design, as if the nymph draped in flowing fabric had been bathed in sunlight, her golden sheen glowing amid the roses.

The Jardins de Bagatelle bottle was manufactured by two renowned French glassmakers: Saint-Gobain Desjonquères and Pochet et du Courval. These historic glassmakers are known for their impeccable craftsmanship, and their collaboration ensured that Granai's delicate vision was flawlessly executed. Each bottle, whether in its original smoky incarnation or its gilded evolution, is a testament to both artistry and the timeless elegance that defines Guerlain's fragrances.





Saint-Gobain Desjonquères:

Saint-Gobain Desjonquères bottles are engraved with "Guerlain copyright 82 SGD" on the base. Saint Gobain produced two molds:
  • 100 ml Spray- June 1982 production until December 1996
  • 60 ml Spray - June 1983 production until August 1996. 

Pochet et du Courval:

Pochet et du Courval bottles are engraved with "Guerlain copyright 82 - HP Paris" on the base. Pochet produced seven molds:
  • 2150 ml - stands 34.8 cm tall - Plastic and glass stopper - December 1983
  • 125 ml - stands 14.2 cm  tall- 1983
  • 250 ml - stands 17.5 cm tall- 1983
  • 18 ml - spray - May 1984
  • 15 ml - stands 10.5 cm tall - purse vaporizer - May of 1992
  • 4 ml - sample - July 1992
  • 50 ml - vaporizer August 1995


Repackaging:


Abandoning the late 1960s- early 1980s white and black zig zag box design for the black and gold box design that began with the introduction of Jardins de Bagatelle, Guerlain adopted this design to package fragrances which became the signature box style for the rest of the 1980s up until the early 2000s.

Fate of the Fragrance:


Forbes, 1991:
"Guerlain's most spectacular failure was Jardins de Bagatelle. It had a light, flowery aroma that didn't appeal to the U.S. market. Guerlain introduced it here with a relatively small budget in the early 1980s, just after the introduction of Giorgio and before Calvin Klein launched Obsession, both sexy blockbuster fragrances that changed the face of the industry. Soon after Bagatelle's flop, the family decided it had to take action..." [This is when the idea to create a stronger fragrance, an Eau de Parfum, was realized.]

 

Fragrance Composition: 


Sometime in it's life, Jardins de Bagatelle was reformulated with modern ingredients. 
  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, lemon, neroli
  • Middle notes: Provencal rose, jasmine, gardenia, tuberose, magnolia, narcissus
  • Base notes: patchouli, cedarwood, vetiver, tonka bean, benzoin, musk

After reading various reviews for the fragrance over the years, some people have claimed that the newer version lacks the earthy qualities of the vintage formula and seems to be a bit more brighter in character.


From Guerlain:
"Jardins de Bagatelle is for women who always perfume themselves for the pleasure of seduction as well as for their own pleasure and enjoyment.  
These gardens are redolent with a multitude of white flowers, varieties of rose, hyacinths, daffodils and narcissus of exceptional luminosity, to the great delight of anyone who loves nature. 
Floral.  Joyous, luminous, captivating. 
Jardins de Bagatelle is an airy and luminous essence, a sparkling fragrance. The heart is a real bouquet of white flowers (neroli, jasmine and gardenia) celebrating joie de vivre over a base of poisonous tuberose underscored with woody notes. 
Jardins de Bagatelle blossoms over a tuberose base. This raw material also has aphrodisiac powers. In the time of Louis XVI, its scent filled the air in the King's court to identify any unwed pregnant women: these women would faint under the effect of this poisonous flower!"


By 2013, the iconic Jardins de Bagatelle bottle was replaced by the "bee bottle" atomizer.


 

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