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Thursday, February 14, 2013

Esprit de Fleurs Nouvelles by Guerlain c1923

Esprit de Fleurs Nouvelles by Guerlain, launched in 1873 and reformulated in 1923, carries a name rich in both tradition and innovation. The phrase "Esprit de Fleurs Nouvelles" is French, translating to "Spirit of New Flowers." This name captures both the ethereal essence of floral beauty and the freshness of something novel, highlighting Guerlain's intention to bring forth a new interpretation of an older, beloved formula. The word "esprit" suggests something more than just a scent—it evokes the soul, the very spirit of the flowers themselves, adding an element of depth and sophistication. By including "nouvelles," meaning "new," Guerlain nods to a renewal, a rebirth of this floral creation for a new era.

The name "Esprit de Fleurs Nouvelles" would evoke images of vibrant gardens filled with fresh blossoms at the peak of their bloom, the air heavy with the intoxicating, delicate scent of flowers. It calls to mind the freshness of spring mornings, where the light is soft, and the world feels rejuvenated after winter’s dormancy. The emotional tone behind the name is one of renewal, grace, and elegance, suggesting a fragrance that would embody both timeless femininity and modern sensibilities.

In scent, Esprit de Fleurs Nouvelles would likely open with a light, airy bouquet of crisp, dewy florals, capturing the freshness of newly bloomed petals. The fragrance would have delicate, almost transparent top notes, leading into a heart of richer, headier blossoms. Perhaps the scent would echo the original floral composition of Esprit de Fleurs from 1828, but with new ingredients introduced to reflect contemporary tastes of the 1920s. The emphasis on "new flowers" could also hint at the inclusion of more exotic or recently discovered floral essences that were becoming popular in modern perfumery.

For the women of the late 19th century, a perfume called Esprit de Fleurs Nouvelles would have felt refined, embodying the delicate femininity and romantic ideals of the time. Floral perfumes were deeply connected with notions of purity, beauty, and grace, all of which aligned with the societal expectations of women during this period. A woman wearing Esprit de Fleurs Nouvelles would likely have felt as though she was draped in the finest blooms, exuding elegance and subtle charm.

When Guerlain reformulated the fragrance in 1923, it was an opportunity to bring the perfume into the modern age while still honoring its heritage. By that time, perfumery had undergone a transformation. The introduction of synthetic ingredients alongside traditional natural essences allowed for more complex, long-lasting fragrances. Guerlain’s decision to reformulate with modern ingredients not only reflected the advancements in perfume chemistry but also catered to the evolving preferences of their clientele. The 1920s were a period of great social and cultural change, with women embracing newfound independence and boldness in fashion and lifestyle. A perfume like Esprit de Fleurs Nouvelles, with its connection to the past but crafted for the present, would have resonated with modern women who still cherished timeless elegance but desired something more contemporary and daring.

By relaunching Esprit de Fleurs Nouvelles on the brink of their 100-year anniversary, Maison Guerlain demonstrated their mastery of tradition while showing their readiness to adapt and innovate. The reformulation was symbolic, offering a modernized homage to the original creation from 1828, ensuring that it could continue to captivate future generations with its refined floral allure.
 





Violette qui Embaume c1904

Guerlain’s Violette qui Embaume, (also spelled Violette Qu'Embaume), launched in 1904, carries a name that poetically reflects the essence of its composition. Translated from French, "Violette qui Embaume" means "Violet that Embalms" or "Violet that Wafts Scent." The word "embaume" evokes imagery of a violet flower so richly fragrant that its scent envelops the air, filling the surroundings with its natural beauty. This was the phrase of the flower sellers in Paris, where a bunch cost two pence. This phrase captures the experience of being in a lush garden of violets, their delicate fragrance carried on a soft breeze. It’s a name that speaks to the era's romantic sensibilities, a time when flowers symbolized femininity, elegance, and the ethereal nature of beauty.

In scent, Violette qui Embaume would be interpreted as a soliflore—a fragrance built around a single floral note. Here, the violet stands front and center, with its powdery, slightly sweet and woody qualities. The name conjures an image of dew-covered violets at dawn, the soft, almost velvety petals exuding their scent with a quiet but persistent strength. The addition of vetiver as a base note grounds the delicate violet, providing an earthy, slightly smoky depth to balance its inherent sweetness. Together, these notes evoke a blend of innocence and sophistication—a fragrance that is at once delicate and rooted in natural richness.

Women of the early 20th century would have embraced a perfume called Violette qui Embaume as an expression of refined taste and feminine grace. At the time, violet perfumes were incredibly popular, signifying purity, modesty, and the gentle elegance admired in women of the era. The violet flower was a staple in many women’s gardens, and its scent was familiar, comforting, and subtly seductive. With the industrial revolution still in progress, there was a growing appreciation for nature, and floral fragrances allowed women to carry a piece of the natural world with them. Violette qui Embaume would have resonated deeply with the women of the period, offering them a sense of connection to both nature and the refined aesthetics of French perfumery.

Violette a Deux Sous c1890

"Violette à Deux Sous," launched by Guerlain around 1890, is a whimsical and evocative name that translates from French to "Twopenny Violet." This playful title cleverly nods to one of the early postage stamps, a “two sous” stamp, making it a witty pun by Guerlain. By choosing this name, Guerlain infused the fragrance with a sense of accessibility, charm, and nostalgia, while hinting at the modest price point of the stamp, which made it an everyday item. The name evokes an image of violets—delicate and fragrant—paired with a sense of something simple yet precious, like a small token sent by mail, a message sealed with affection.

The word "Violette à Deux Sous" conjures emotions of lightness, spring, and subtle luxury. The violet, a flower that symbolizes modesty, love, and innocence, would have brought to mind for women of the time an ethereal, tender scent associated with femininity. In the late 19th century, violets were immensely popular in both fashion and fragrance. The scent of violets had become a cornerstone of perfumery, often used to evoke romance and nostalgia, making this perfume likely to appeal to women who desired an elegant, classic floral scent with a touch of playfulness. The title "Twopenny Violet" would have been perceived as charming, affordable yet sophisticated, inviting women to enjoy a little indulgence reminiscent of love letters or secret admirations exchanged with the simplicity of a postage stamp.

Ai Loe by Guerlain c1905

Aï Loé by Guerlain, launched in 1905 and created by Jacques Guerlain, is a name that evokes mystery and intrigue. The origin of the name "Aï Loé" is uncertain, though it could potentially be derived from various linguistic sources. One possibility is that it comes from the Tamil word for "loyal," with "Ai" meaning "I," though this remains speculative. In the world of perfumery at the time, it was common for names to carry exotic or foreign-sounding elements, suggesting far-off lands, and Guerlain could have crafted the name to convey a sense of elegance and allure. Alternatively, it could be a play on an earlier perfume called "Ki Loe du Japon" or "Ki Loc," popular in formulary books of the 19th and early 20th centuries, with slight alterations by Guerlain to make it uniquely his own.

The name "Aï Loé" conjures images of distant, romantic lands and exoticism. It hints at travel, mystery, and an alluring sense of devotion or loyalty, making it an evocative choice for a perfume in the early 20th century. For women of the time, the name would have likely evoked a sense of elegance and sophistication, appealing to the era's fascination with the exotic, which was very much in vogue in the early 1900s. The word "Loé" might evoke floral delicacy or softness, while "Aï" could suggest a personal, intimate connection, as though the fragrance speaks directly to the wearer. Together, they form a name that feels both intimate and far-reaching, suggesting a unique personal expression through scent.

In terms of how the fragrance itself was interpreted, Aï Loé carried the sensual, luxurious qualities that were becoming hallmarks of Guerlain’s creations during this period. The perfume was interpreted in scent as an alluring blend of soft florals, exotic woods, and hints of oriental resins and musk—a composition that transported the wearer to an imaginary, far-flung land. With the reworking of an earlier formula, Guerlain would have retained traditional elements of perfumery while adding his own distinctive touch, perhaps modernizing the blend with new notes or balancing it with a French sensibility of refinement.



L'Heure De Nuit c2012

L’Heure De Nuit: created in 2012, by Thierry Wasser. The new fragrance for women is a beautiful, sparkling modern interpretation flanker to the original 1912 fragrance, L’Heure Bleue.


Painting: Jean Auguste Dominique Ingres, La Grande Odalisque, 1814

Shalimar Parfum Initial L'Eau Si Sensuelle c2013

Shalimar Parfum Initial L'Eau Si Sensuelle: created in 2013 by Thierry Wasser, as a new limited edition collector's flacon. The scent has not been changed.


Aqua Allegoria Nerolia Bianca c2013

Aqua Allegoria Nerolia Bianca: created in 2013 by Thierry Wasser, who tried to reconstruct every fraction of a bitter orange tree; from its flowers, fruits and twigs to leaves.



Guerlain Home Fragrances - Les Parfums d'Interieur

Any perfume house worth its extrait is now adding home fragrances to its range, enabling perfume-lovers to infuse their homes with the same scent they spritz behind their ears. As early as the 19th century, Guerlain offered numerous scents for the home. Many people may not know that Guerlain has currently has a home fragrance range including: room sprays, candles, incense sticks and soaps. They are only available from their flagship store on the Champs-Elysées in Paris, usually only sold in their boutique and some are even given away for gifts with purchase or to special VIP clients.

180g (6.4oz) candles retailing at $95 each.


Candles:




Bois des Indes (Indian Woods): it's spiced woods scent recalls an intense journey to the sacred heart of India. Another place that transports you into the cool air of an agreement of crushed leaves revived by the sparkle fruity rhubarb. The mild sweetness of sandalwood weaves jasmine petals on a bed of vanilla.

Fleurs Des Iles (Island Flowers): based on the Aqua Allegoria scent Lys Soleia.Top notes: bergamot, lemon and palm leaves. Heart: lily, ylang-ylang, and tropical fruits. Base: tuberose, vanilla and white musk.

Boudoir Vénitien (Venetian Boudoir): its powdery floral scent imagines an intimate moment in Italy.Venetian Boudoir is a tribute to the warm interior and baroque. The intimacy of a cozy alcove nimbus of a tender and sweet scent that starts on blackcurrant. The Parma violet then whispers its secrets to the rich leather of Cordova, in a cloud of scent of rice powder. 

Forêt de Sumatra (Sumatran Forest):  its  exotic woody scent is inspired by the imaginary scenery of the Indonesian forest, with notes of moss, jasmine, ylang-ylang, smoked tea, vanilla, benzoin, tonka bean and patchouli. On the occasion of its launch, the design of the entire candle collection has been changed into a heavier, shiny glass jar bearing Guerlain's revived Sun King symbol. c2013.

Pot Pourri Parisien: (Parisian Potpourri): A stroll through the heart of the French capital, an encounter on the banks of the Seine, a stolen kiss… A bouquet of aromas with enchanting lingering notes. Paris, the city of temptations, where the sweet smell of cinnamon flirts with patchouli and sandalwood. A potpourri of scents, like a vague memory of yesteryear. Audacious Paris. Romantic Paris. Paris, I love you. Oriental, Aromatic. An olfactory reference to Jicky. Notes of orange, petit grain, neroli, mint, rosemary, marjoram, cinnamon, geranium, patchouli, sandalwood, benzoin. c2013.

Pluie De Petales (Mist of Petals): the fragrance is inspired by the perfume Idylle.

Hiver en Russie (Russian Winter): its woodsy oriental fragrance recalls shivering at the sumptuous frosty Slavic palace . Contrast between the warmth of golden domes and snow white ... It gets inside and discovers a mystical fragrance from precious woods and incense. Gradually, the warm amber reassurance and shuddered at the touch of clove exploding overwhelming sensuality. Recollecting the pleasure of dazzling palaces and the luxuriousness of Russia under the Tsars. The perfumed tea of a samovar gets together with the smell of wax. The precious ashes enriched with myrrh illustrate the gold churches' mystic splendor. 

Contes Tahitiens (Tahitian Fairy-Tales): its friuty and solar scent recalls the exotic scents of the islands ... Reminiscent of lush shores where time languished, Tales Tahitians breathes like a whirlwind of sunflowers sweet tiare of fresh guava, which capsized on the creamy sweetness of sandalwood Marquesas and sensuality of vanilla Raiatea.

Route de la Soie (The Silk Road): Inspired by the fragrance of Guerlain's Samsara perfume.

Orchidee Imperiale: Contains the signature scent of the Orchidee Imperiale skincare line..

Un Instant au Soleil (A Moment in the Sun): a soapy floral, I do not have the notes on this or which Guerlain perfume inspired it, it may be a reference to the Terracotta line or AA Bouquet No.1 or AA Jasminora or L'Instant perfume.

Le Temps Des Lilas (Lilac Time): a lilac soliflore candle from the early 1980s. Found on an empty candle holder with label on base, "LE TEMPS DES LILAS Guerlain Scented Candle 175 grams Copyright 1983." Referenced in Le Figaro magazine, 1985.

Fougeres (Ferns): a fern (fougere) candle from the early 1980s, also known as Fougere No.5. Referenced in Le Figaro magazine, 1985.

photo by ebay seller books-cds-etceter



Bougie Parfumee Orchidee Imperiale



A six candle VIP set included:
  • 2 x 75g Fleurs Des Iles 
  • 2 x 75g Pluie De Petales/ Mist of Petals 
  • 2 x 75g Route de la Soie / The Silk Road



photo by ebay seller fragrance_shoppe




Home Fragrance Spray:


Eau de Lit: 

From Guerlain:
"Guerlain reinvents one of the most delicate traditions with Eau de Lit. Its ritual unfolds like a love story. When night falls, the mischievous and sensual Guerlain woman perfumes her sheets with Eau de Lit. As if by enchantment, her nights are bathed in a cosy, glamorous atmosphere, ideal for games of seduction. The bottle is adorned with a label, like pink and gold lace, and a pink ribbon around the neck.
 Dispense a few drops on your pillow at night before going to bed and spray on the sheets, like an invitation to games of seduction. A delicate touch on your curtains refreshes the room. 
When you travel, slip it into your suitcase to recreate your little haven of pleasure in your hotel room with this very soothing fragrance."
A fragrance that you can spray onto your bedding. Could also be used as a room spray. 30ml. It is classified as a fresh, musky floral fragrance.

  • Top notes: bergamot, coriander leaf, star anise, aromatic notes
  • Heart notes: green note, Tunisian neroli
  • Base notes: sage, vanilla, white musks, cedarwood



Eau de Lingerie: 


From Guerlain:
"The skin is kissed by fragrance and caressed by lingerie, which is given a new beauty step by Guerlain. A new delicate fragrance to spray on underthings, like an invitation to an unprecedented moment of sensuality. An original embrace to perfume your most chic undergarments and set the senses awhirl. An invitation to voluptuousness… An ideal gift for someone special or yourself! 
Spray Eau de Lingerie on the dainty satin of a nightie, on the bow adorning the strap of a bra or on the lace of a negligee. Or spray a light mist in your lingerie drawers. This new beauty ritual harmonises with all fragrances."
It is classified as a musky floral fragrance for women.  It contains notes of iris, rose, vanilla, sandalwood, white musk and ambrette. A fragrance you can spray onto your lingerie. Could also be used as a room spray or sprayed onto your bedding. 125ml.



Eau de Cashmere: 

From Guerlain:
"A unisex fragrance to spray directly on your favourite jumper or scarf, for the ultimate touch of elegance. Perfumers reveal their latest secret to scenting your favourite items of clothing. This original and unique way of applying perfume can be used with any scent from the l'Art & la Matière collection, for an irresistibly elegant fragrant trail. 
L'Eau de Cashmere is a new ritual created to enhance your signature scent. Designed to be worn with any of the fragrances from the Art & Matière collection, it gives a twist to your perfume, adding a gentle, woody note that is both enveloping and reassuring. A perfumer’s secret reserved for those in the know, offering a unique fragrant trail."

A unisex fragrance created for you to spray directly on your favorite sweaters and cashmere stoles for a cocooning effect of the smartest kind.  125ml. Eau de Toilette.

  • Top notes: bergamot and mandarin
  • Middle notes: iris and lavender 
  • Base notes: cedar, vetiver and musk


Orchidee Imperiale: 

Contains the signature scent of the Orchidee Imperiale skincare line, I have seen this referenced as the scent of Guerlain's beautiful Nahema perfume. Orchidée Impériale fragrance, discreet and refined, luxurious and feminine. Meant to spray on the fabrics in your home, pillows, sheets, etc. Could also be used as a room spray. 125ml/4.2oz

  • Top notes: rose, anise
  • Middle notes: white orchid accord, bourbon geranium 
  • Base notes: woody notes of cedar, vanilla





photo from ebay seller germ1123

Voile de Poudre (Powdery Softness)

It has a pronounced violet scent. Meant to spray on the fabrics in your home, pillows, sheets, etc. Could also be used as a room spray. 125 mL/ 4.2 fl oz

photo by ebay seller rosrey


Meteorites Home Fragrance Spray:

Smells just like the Meteorites makeup. Comes in a 125ml/4.2oz bottle.






Orchidee Imperiale Home Fragrance c2011

Orchidee Imperiale Parfum D'Interieur Ambience Home Fragrance Spray: created in 2011. Meant to spray on the fabrics in your home, pillows, sheets, etc. It was a giveaway with purchase only at the Guerlain boutiques. It is not for retail sale which makes it a rare commodity.


Another scented home fragrance item was produced, the 6.3 oz Orchidee Imperiale candle.


So what does it smell like? It has a pronounced signature scent from the scent from the Orchidee Imperiale skincare range


Available in the following:

  • 125ml/4.2oz






Bougie Parfumee Orchidee Imperiale



Voile de Poudre Home Ambience Spray c2011

Voile de Poudre (Powdery Softness) Ambience Home Fragrance Spray: created in 2011. Meant to spray on the fabrics in your home, pillows, sheets, etc. It was a giveaway with purchase only at the Guerlain boutiques. It is not for retail sale.


So what does it smell like? It has a pronounced violet scent.

Available in the following:
  • 125 ml/ 4.2 fl oz
photo by ebay seller rosrey