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Monday, January 23, 2023

West End by Guerlain c1839

West End by Guerlain: launched in 1839. The name comes from the "West End" of London. The perfume was also sold by other perfume companies.



La Mode, 1845:

"Today we make perfume cellars, as we invented a few years ago for liqueurs served at the same time as Guerlain coffee in these cellars, well made to be given as gifts; we saw some at his home , in rosewood, with porcelain or enamel medallions inlaid in the wood and framed with pearls. The soul of these cellars is the spirit of the flowers; when we open them, the apartment where they are embalmed with the sweetest, most delicious scents. The pink lily, the water of Judaea, the water of Portugal, the bouquet of Chantilly, the essence of the West End are exhaled. At Guerlain again, what charming boxes to contain the four-seed paste; the famous goose fat, which has overcome bear fat; the violet rice powder, which the woman who wants to refresh her complexion, drops on her face in shaking a small tuft of swan's down, mounted on a silver-gilt hand...; and then these incomparable bottles, where the chiseled gold unites with such brilliance with the rock crystal.

From flowers to perfume the transition is very simple; also after talking about spring and Cartier, we will cite a name that smells of balm in the distance; that of Guerlain. Among the stores that are going to be fashionably visited, we do not know of a single one that looks more beautiful than that of the great perfumer on the Rue de la Paix. Perfumes are one of the great pleasures of life; no one has been able to make them smoother and more harmless than Guerlain. He studied the weakness of the most delicate complexions, and he knew how to measure its delicious scents. With him the sense of smell is not the only one flattered, the eyes also have a good part; because where would one find prettier bottles, more elegant vases, more complete potpourris, such as the great Louis XIV and the voluptuous loved them. Louis XV? Among all the bottles which spread freshness and healthiness in the places most heated by the crowd, those that Guerlain fills with aromatic vinegar are the most cited. This specialty alone offers a vast field to gift givers. Now if, after having talked about pleasant things, we come to deal with useful things, we will still say that there are many of them at Guerlain. Isn't it from him that we bring back the most refreshing lotions, the creamiest soaps, the most emulsive oleins, the most softening pastes, the most beneficial cold creams for the skin?

Among the wedding gifts, a delicious bottle of Guerlain in chiseled gold and rock crystal, made from the most beautiful water in the world; and in Vienna boxes inlaid with mother-of-pearl and gold, a whole assortment of perfumes bouquet Victoria, bouquet de West End, bouquet de Chantilly and bouquet de Portugal, etc."


Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? West End was a popular fragrance during the 19th century. Formulas for the perfume appeared in several perfumery manuals and pharmacopeias during the period. These formulas were based on mixed blends. Natural extracts, infusions, absolutes and tinctures would have been used early on, but as the 19th century drew to a close, newly discovered synthetics may have been utilized.  The general recipe included the following ingredients:
  • Top notes: lemon, bergamot, cassie, limette, verbena, neroli, cloves, rose geranium, lavender
  • Middle notes: jasmine, tuberose, violet, rose, orange blossom, orris, ylang ylang
  • Base notes: ambergris, musk, cedar, tonka bean, civet, benzoin, vanilla, sandalwood

  

Bottle:

May have been housed in the Carre flacon.


Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown

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