West End by Guerlain c1839

Guerlain’s West End, launched in 1839, is a fragrance that captures the essence of London’s prestigious and fashionable district of the same name. The choice of "West End" as a name is a nod to one of London’s most affluent and culturally vibrant areas. The term "West End" refers to the district located in the western part of Central London, renowned for its high society and entertainment venues. It evokes images of opulent theaters, grand hotels, and elegant shopping streets, all contributing to a sense of refinement and luxury.

The name West End conjures images of a sophisticated and bustling area known for its exclusivity and status. The West End was famous in the early 19th century for its theaters and cultural landmarks, such as Covent Garden and the burgeoning entertainment scene, attracting the elite and socialites of London. The district was home to the city's wealthiest residents, and it became synonymous with high society and fashionable living.

For women of the time period, a perfume named West End would have signified an association with this luxurious lifestyle. It would have been perceived as a fragrance that embodies the elegance and exclusivity of London’s premier district, reflecting the aspirations and social status of those who wore it. The scent was likely crafted to evoke the same sophistication and charm as the area it was named after, making it a symbol of refined taste and social prestige.

It is noteworthy that West End was not an original creation by Guerlain but rather a popular fragrance of the era, with several major perfume houses offering their own versions. The widespread use of similar formulas underscores the scent’s appeal and its embodiment of the refined, sophisticated aura associated with London’s West End. The fragrance served as a marker of class and elegance, aligning itself with the high standards and cultural vibrancy of one of the world's most celebrated districts.

West End emerged as a quintessential fragrance of the 19th century, reflecting the era’s fascination with opulence and refinement. During this time, the perfume’s formulas were prominently featured in various perfumery manuals and pharmacopeias, highlighting its widespread popularity and significance in the world of fragrance. These manuals offered detailed recipes and guidelines for creating West End, which was distinguished by its complex blend of ingredients designed to evoke sophistication and elegance.

The composition of West End was based on a carefully crafted mixture of natural extracts, infusions, absolutes, and tinctures. Early formulations relied heavily on these traditional materials, with perfumers utilizing essential oils derived from flowers, fruits, and herbs to create a rich and nuanced scent profile. Ingredients such as lavender, rose, and bergamot were common, their natural essences providing depth and character to the perfume.

As the 19th century progressed, the perfume industry began incorporating newly discovered synthetic compounds into its creations. These advancements allowed perfumers to experiment with novel aromas and enhance the complexity of their blends. While early West End fragrances were rooted in natural sources, the introduction of synthetics towards the end of the century enabled the creation of more stable and versatile scent profiles, broadening the appeal and longevity of the perfume.

The evolution of West End reflects the broader trends in perfumery during the 19th century, as the industry transitioned from traditional methods to a more innovative approach. This blend of historical craftsmanship and modern advancements contributed to the enduring popularity of West End, ensuring its place as a symbol of luxury and refinement in the perfume world.

La Mode, 1845:

"Today we make perfume cellars, as we invented a few years ago for liqueurs served at the same time as Guerlain coffee in these cellars, well made to be given as gifts; we saw some at his home , in rosewood, with porcelain or enamel medallions inlaid in the wood and framed with pearls. The soul of these cellars is the spirit of the flowers; when we open them, the apartment where they are embalmed with the sweetest, most delicious scents. 

The pink lily, the water of Judaea, the water of Portugal, the bouquet of Chantilly, the essence of the West End are exhaled. At Guerlain again, what charming boxes to contain the four-seed paste; the famous goose fat, which has overcome bear fat; the violet rice powder, which the woman who wants to refresh her complexion, drops on her face in shaking a small tuft of swan's down, mounted on a silver-gilt hand...; and then these incomparable bottles, where the chiseled gold unites with such brilliance with the rock crystal.

From flowers to perfume the transition is very simple; also after talking about spring and Cartier, we will cite a name that smells of balm in the distance; that of Guerlain. Among the stores that are going to be fashionably visited, we do not know of a single one that looks more beautiful than that of the great perfumer on the Rue de la Paix. Perfumes are one of the great pleasures of life; no one has been able to make them smoother and more harmless than Guerlain. He studied the weakness of the most delicate complexions, and he knew how to measure its delicious scents. With him the sense of smell is not the only one flattered, the eyes also have a good part; because where would one find prettier bottles, more elegant vases, more complete potpourris, such as the great Louis XIV and the voluptuous loved them. Louis XV? 

Among all the bottles which spread freshness and healthiness in the places most heated by the crowd, those that Guerlain fills with aromatic vinegar are the most cited. This specialty alone offers a vast field to gift givers. Now if, after having talked about pleasant things, we come to deal with useful things, we will still say that there are many of them at Guerlain. Isn't it from him that we bring back the most refreshing lotions, the creamiest soaps, the most emulsive oleins, the most softening pastes, the most beneficial cold creams for the skin?

Among the wedding gifts, a delicious bottle of Guerlain in chiseled gold and rock crystal, made from the most beautiful water in the world; and in Vienna boxes inlaid with mother-of-pearl and gold, a whole assortment of perfumes bouquet Victoria, bouquet de West End, bouquet de Chantilly and bouquet de Portugal, etc."

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like?  It is classified as a floral amber fragrance with elements of citrus and spice.

• Top notes: lemon, bergamot, cassie, limette, verbena, neroli, cloves, rose geranium, lavender
• Middle notes: jasmine, tuberose, violet, rose, orange blossom, orris, ylang ylang
• Base notes: ambergris, musk, cedar, tonka bean, civet, benzoin, vanilla, sandalwood

  

Scent Profile:

West End unveils itself as a symphony of scents, beginning with a vibrant burst of citrus and spice that immediately captivates. The top notes are a zesty, effervescent dance of lemon and bergamot, their bright, tangy aroma reminiscent of a sunlit citrus grove. Limette adds a sharp, refreshing twist, while verbena infuses a hint of herbal brightness. 

The fragrance is further enlivened by the sweet, green freshness of cassie and the warm, rosy spiciness of cloves. As you inhale, the soothing lavender merges seamlessly with rose geranium, offering a calming floral undertone that complements the citrus burst.

Transitioning to the heart of West End, you are enveloped in a lush bouquet of florals. The heady, creamy scent of jasmine mingles with the opulent tuberose, their rich, velvety notes creating an intoxicating floral harmony. 

Violet introduces a delicate, powdery nuance, while the romantic rose and luminous orange blossom enhance the fragrance with their sweet, fragrant warmth. Orris adds a soft, powdery elegance, and ylang ylang contributes a tropical, exotic richness, rounding out this luxurious floral blend.

As the scent evolves, the base notes reveal a deep, warm ambergris that provides a sophisticated, resinous backdrop. Musk adds a sensual, slightly animalic undertone that enhances the fragrance’s depth. The woody, slightly smoky aroma of cedar and the creamy, sweet nuances of tonka bean intertwine with the exotic, musky warmth of civet. 

Benzoin offers a balsamic, vanilla-like richness, which, along with the smooth, creamy vanilla and sandalwood, creates a richly comforting and enduring finish. The combination of these base notes ensures that West End leaves a lasting impression, embodying the timeless elegance and opulence of a classic floral amber fragrance.

Bottle:

May have been housed in the Carre flacon.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown